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Volvo 240 Wagons

13

Comments

  • 240mom240mom Member Posts: 1
    I have a '92 240 Wagon that has 165,000 plus miles. I am original owner. I love this car and would happily drive it forever. My husband says it's time to at least look for other options (so if the day comes when something devastating happens...ie: an expensive replacement part) we are ready. The kids hate it...they are embarrased by it. Test drove a Pilot...it's nice, but not the same. Major systems are still in (replaced roters, timing belt last year, and side map pockets have been kicked and cracked.) I guess I get a lot of satisfaction that despite it's age, it is STILL safer than most mini-vans and because of it's age, it's a very cool car. I have replaced two sets of hatch wire harnesses, hatch door locks by 'itself' w/out notice, but overall, it starts and runs like a kitten. We would keep it, of course, if we buy another car...but the more I see of the new cars, the less I like them. I know, it sounds crazy but so nice reading this forum where there are others who feel like I do about a lovable, old car.
  • martinturnermartinturner Member Posts: 17
    I have bought a 1990 DL240 stick shift wagon with 238,000 miles on it, for $100, it does not run and has no keys! so I am going to use this forum to air my progress with this car over the next few months. I hope I learn by my experience with this car in trying to get it running and you may share a laugh or two with my ignorance.
    I start off with three manuals, Haynes, Chiltern's, and the works! one. I have a set of tools, a Ohmmeter, a workbench in a garage and a lot of spare time. The Dragon' (my wife) has said I can spend up to $500 on this car and no more.
    Right!! First problem is shifting it from the drive where it has sat for some time, so I removed the glove box lock and took it to 'Young's' in Berkeley and asked them to cut me a key for the lock, 'This key should fit the ignition, so I hope to save some bucks' there for a start.
    I also know the battery is clapped out so I have probably lost any diagnostic codes which could have pointed me in the right direction. So! onto graigslist and see if I can buy a battery cheap! Will report back next week on progress made.....Martin
  • 1993volvo2451993volvo245 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 93 245 Wagon in 94. It now has 293 thousand miles on it and it will be my 15 year old daughter's first car...She is not thrilled with it but it still looks very good (silver paint) and runs well. I cannot think of a better car for her and her younger sister to drive. It is "slow and safe" and I hate to have to find me something else to drive after driving it for 269 thousand miles. It is a good lesson for the young to learn that having the new shinny car should not be a goal in life but living within your budget and being content with who you are not what you have...Good luck with your car and 165 k is just getting broken in. I know a guy who has over 550 thousand miles on a 240....Take care...
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    Wow that is amazing!
  • martinturnermartinturner Member Posts: 17
    Further to my last message a month ago, I have obtained a ignition key by removing the trunk lock and having the Locksmith make a key for that as it will fit the ignition. The glove box lock was no good.
    I now have the car at my house and have removed the inlet manifold, E.G.R. valve, and the flame trap, for cleaning as the engine seemed very oily, and I was wondering if it has crankcase compression.
    While cleaning and inspecting that side of the engine I noticed that on removal of the distributor cap I found I could turn the rotor. I thought the pin in the gear at the end of the dist. had sheared but that was ok. so wondered if the dist. gear was meshing on the camshaft gear, but hey! wait a minute it has a idler so it has to be the belt. (by the way a new distributor from Volvo is $588.00 Ha! Ha! Ha!)
    On dismantling the front cover Yes! I was greeted by a broken oily belt.
    I was worried that one of the valves had fouled a piston but I can turn the crank freely and could not feel a tight spot or hear a knock indicating fouling. So next stop is the continuation of dismantling the front end (which is very oily) and replacing the serpentine belt. and keeping my fingers crossed that I have not a bent valve. I did notice that no.4 plug tip looked a bit whiter than the other three when removing them, so does that point to a injector fault?.....
    I have also removed the seats and cleaned everywhere, the dark blue drivers seat looks very sad! with rips and play in the back rest, so I am on the lookout for a decent used one. Also the side pockets are broken so am thinking of ways to repair/renew those. I have also cut the paint back and got rid of scratches and grime, prior to giving it a good polish.
    I only hope that the engine fires up after all so I can read off any codes that may show up, ( I have bought a new battery by the way). I will write again after fitting the belt and trying to start it.
  • gokempsgokemps Member Posts: 2
    The wagon was in an accident a few years ago and the front end was replaced. Runs well with 197,000 miles. I think some one who needs one of these cars for parts would be the best buyer. Any suggestions on where to post a "For sale" ad? I'm in North Carolina. Thanks!
  • martinturnermartinturner Member Posts: 17
    I would dearly love your Volvo for spares, however I think we are to far away from each other to make it financially viable, as I live just outside of San Francisco. Just out of interest how much do you want for it? and is it a automatic or a stick shift?
    I suggest you sell parts off it on craigs list or e-bay anyway, as you could make more than selling it whole! If you have the time that is to take parts off it as ,and when they are sold.
  • stickbuilderstickbuilder Member Posts: 4
    You don't need to worry about bent valves, or smashed pistons with the BF 230 engine. It is a non-interference engine, and when you snap the cam belt, the valves do not contact the pistons. Just get everything lined up, and you should be good to go, I would reccomend replacing the idler while you are in there, as well as the water pump. It's best to service everything while you are in there. If you find that much oil, I would replace the cam, crank and intermediate shaft seals too. It's about a 4-5 hour job to do it all. If you don't have one, get the Bentley manual. The others are good for bird cage liners.

    Bill
  • stickbuilderstickbuilder Member Posts: 4
    Keep it. I am the original owner of a 1985 245 GL and it just turned 117,000 miles. Everything has been kept in good working order, and I would rather drive it than anything I have seen. Well, maybe something like a Shelby Mustang might turn my head, but I wouldn't want to feed it. Mine also runs very smoothly, and everything still works as it did nearly 24 years ago. It is garage kept, and even the paint is original, and still shines very well. I think that they will probably last forever, even the automatic transmission. Best of luck.

    Bill
  • jmarin1jmarin1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a Volvo 93 240 Wagon. I went to WCS Automotive in Rockland, MA. They were pretty good, but I feel like everytime I go there I have a huge amount of costs and they pick out all the little things. I want to determine a good place to get an overview of whether or not it is worth putting money into the car. Note- WCS Automotive is a Volvo Specialist.

    The car has 195,000 miles. Needs: Exhaust kit, A Frame Bushing (large rear seperated), and front anti sway bar work. Torque Rod Bushings.

    Is this worth fixing?

    Question:
    Is there any advantage to going to a dealer service? Boston Village Volvo and/or South Shore Volvo.
  • jmarin1jmarin1 Member Posts: 2
    Is anyone interested in buying my Volvo 240 Wagon? As you know, my last post tells what is wrong with it. I am the third owner. It was first my Mom's and before that some "little old lady". I've religiously did 3K oil changes, air filters, and I have all my receipts. My Mom did the same.

    I'm just considering going with something new and a little smaller as I live in Boston. Body is in excellent condition. No rust. Blue. Have done tons of upkeep to it too and able to document. Mom was very perfect about the upkeep basics as well. Note- I have not done the 180K service yet.
  • bolvobolvo Member Posts: 5
    I own a 1991 Volvo 240 sedan (with EGR Valve) Please guide me to the correct FORUM.. .. please e-mail me the way to that link @ obandojaime@sbcglobal.net
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    I emailed you!
  • bolvobolvo Member Posts: 5
    it's incredible.. . this thing I used to love now I hate and can't get it fixed. . .
    $1,200 worth of repairs from basic to major repair.. . it just wont work "like it used 2".. Please help.. I've checked everything. . . but this car has 2 personalities...
    and when the mechanic gets the one where the car is "Temporarily Fine" he calls me and tells me: "it's finally fixed.. . " 2 days later . . . the car is still giving me a hard time.. . iddles too fast. .. gas consumption sucks.. . irregular rpms, and I just don't know what to do. . except taking it to a "Volvo Dealership" where they'll charge me another $1,200 to fix it.. . and then I'll know I should not have done this that and the other.. so far I have replaced the computer, sparkplugs & wires fuel pressure regulator.. . egr valve, speed sensor, air mass sensor, 4 fuel injectors.. egr pipe, fuel filter oil, & filter, Iddle motor.. and so forth... any ideas? oh yeah fuel pump relay, temp sensor, egr sensor, belts timing belt water pump.. . & so forth..
    is this car evil or what..?
  • galgogalgo Member Posts: 1
    Bolvo: No, she isn't evil. Just can't speak. Nobody has actually found the problem yet.

    Check the Hall Sensor in the distributor and the Oxygen sensor mounted on the exhaust pipe just behind and below the engine. The Hall Sensor, if incorrectly operating, can give erratic ignition behavior. If the O2 sensor is in poor condition, it can provide very poor gas mileage because it tricks the engine into thinking it needs more fuel.

    Any "generic" O2 sensor will work. It will have 3 wires. 2 black and one white. Clip the old ones and connect the new ones with some sleeve type crimp connectors and then solder them with rosin electrical solder. Do not trust the crimp only. Solder them. You are dealing with milli volts.

    Check: volvospeed.com matthewsvolvosite.com brickboard.com and

    http://volvospeed.com/bay13.htm for additional options.

    Regards.

    Galgo.
  • martinturnermartinturner Member Posts: 17
    Did you sell your Volvo? if not, please send me details (mart37@gmail.com) and a few photos if poss'
  • bbruneaubbruneau Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a real challange for y’all
    Car won’t start. No spark. Was running fine before I did something (a week or two of messing with this car and I have forgotten what I was working on, but it had nothing to do with the electrics, and certainly not the starting system.
    Have run all the basic tests ala official shop manual and Volvo Problem Solver. Nada.
    New battery.
    No spark from coil
    Tried the basic test and hooked a bulb to Terminal 1 of coil and ground and cranked engine - did not light
    Swapped in another coil from a running car. Did not work
    Hooked up my timing light to the coil (both coils), as well as to plug one, no spark - except after cranking it with no spark, got one flash at the end, I think after I finished cranking. This has happened twice.
    Terminal 15 on coil is live
    Terminal 1 on coil is about 1.4 volts, right where it should be
    The impulse sender resistance is in range
    Neither terminal of impulse sender is grounded
    Have another control module, swapped it in and no change (both read about the same on the terminals that go to impulse sender - .06 volts and about .5 volts)
    Continuity in wire from impulse sender to control terminal
    Cleaned contacts and several grounds (engine wall by battery, windshield wiper)
    Any suggestions?
  • roc3roc3 Member Posts: 1
    wonder if someone has any thoughts as to why my wagon shifts up and down in o/d by itself.just had brakes redone along with mechanical kick down cable to trans.I'm getting a shudder when slowing down which my mechanic swears is not related to the brakes.It starts to shake when i hit the brakes but continues after brake is released until car stops .any ideas?? roc
  • chj1chj1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi - Backgroubnd - 1988 245, 180 k mi - clean. Recently replaced the temp guage control board with a wire (connecting pins 1 & 3) - a standard fix, didn't work. Temp & gas guages still go to max when headlights on.
    Now - while idleing with lights on, pressed drivers door lock, door-open bell stats ringing (door is closed). Headlights go off and will not turn on, even after turning car off. Directional indicators work, flashers don't work, brake lights work.
    Investigation reveals fuel pump fuse blown (fried, not just wire popped).
    What's going on here ??
    II can't find the headlight relay - where's it hiding - with the fuel relay under the glove box ?
    Any ideas ? Thanks
    Curtis
  • mossmoss24mossmoss24 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know a good online resource that has tables that would help me figure out what series Fuel Injection system I have and what the resistance should be across all the leads of my Air Mass Meter? My Haynes guide is rather cryptic on the whole issue. I've been stalling at red lights... if anyone has any tips they would be much appreciated!
  • mrwrickmrwrick Member Posts: 6
    I am working on my wife's 1993 240 SW alternator. New 80A alternator is in, but dash light does not come on. I know the lamp is an integral part of the circuit. How do I get to this lamp to replace it? Thanks
  • mrwrickmrwrick Member Posts: 6
    Still working on wife's 240 SW, 1993. Bulb in dash battery charging light is OK. Alternator is OK, ground (blue wire) is OK. I do NOT get 12V at the red (B+) pole on alternator, only 9V. Fuse No. 13 is OK, none appear blown. Need to find where the problem is with the charging circuit. Need to trace the wiring to the charge indicator lamp. What do I check, where and how? Thanks
  • mrwrickmrwrick Member Posts: 6
    So, while waiting for a reply to my two previous posts requesting help, I have continued to trace what I can in the wiring.

    I can get 12V at the little red wire to the D+ alternator pole IF it is not connected to the alternator. Once connected it drops to 9.5-near10V, but not 12.

    Dash light is dim, does not light up when key is switched to II, glows dimly in the dark whle engine is running.

    I have slow charged my battery several times to make sure I have juice to drive from A to B while trying to figure this out. While on the charger/tester it shows 14V, but once off it drops to 12V at best on the charger and a multimeter scale. I now believe that the alternator and charging circuit are fine, but the battery is dying, maybe a weak cell. Can anybody verify having gone through this problem with same or similar results? What was your end result? Thanks
  • bocatripbocatrip Member Posts: 194
    After many years of ownership,l sold my 1988 240 with 209,000 miles. I have owned numerous 240s and can say with all honesty, that these cars do have indestructable engines and automatic transmissions. However, just about everything else on the 240 is self destructive and costs are astronomical. This is why we see fewer and fewer of these cars on the road after the last 93 model. However, we still see a zillion very old Toyotas and Hondas. The Volvo 240 although quite reliable as far as "not breaking down" should really be considered a high maintanance car, which it is.
  • tbentleytbentley Member Posts: 3
    I bought my 93 240 wagon 15 years ago and have now 306,000 miles on it. It has been a great car and has an admirable reliability record. I hope to put another 200, 000 on it before it is replaced. It is a safe commuting vehicle and will be my oldest daughter's first car...
  • bocatripbocatrip Member Posts: 194
    One last thing I wanted to add to my 240 expierence. I actually was considering to give my trusted 88 240 with 209K to my daughter as a gift. However, the main reason I decided against it was due to the cars lack of power. Every time I had to get the car onto the hightway I was white knuckling it. It's fine for city driving, but getting onto or passing on highways was down right frightening.
  • tbentleytbentley Member Posts: 3
    We live in rural northeast Georgia so getting onto highways and such is not a problem. I drive it through Atlanta with no problems...you just have to plan ahead...She will not be driving anywhere close to Atlanta, just local...She will be able to drive the suv if she needs to go further out. She is not a great driver and the idea of slow and safe is comforting...
  • mrwrickmrwrick Member Posts: 6
    After ending my attempts to figure out the 93 240 alternator problem myself I took the new one off and brought it back to the shop where I bought it. They tested it, found the regulator to be bad and replaced it. No problems now. I have to learn to trust the readings I get.

    Latest is I just got back from a 400 mile R/T from sea level in San Francisco to over 7300 feet in the Sierra Nevada. Despite no extra power in climbing I was able to get where I was going, including a load of 3 guys over 200 lbs, up and over the 7380 foot pass a coupe times, Got 27 MPG over 275 of thos miles, including all the climbing. I am still a believer.

    But, due to the continual need for diagnosis and treatment of little nagging problems I will not give it to my son as his first car. I get to keep it for myself, happily. He will get a Toyota,
  • smakingsmaking Member Posts: 1
    I have owned my 1993 Volvo 240 Classic since January of 09. I have always wanted a Volvo. I am not a mechanic and I don't know much about cars. I have just been doing some research online to try and figure out why I have spent over $900 in the past 3 months on this car. I took it in and was told the oxygen sensor was bad which was why the check engine light was on. Had that fixed, light stayed off for about a week then came back on. Took it back in and now was told that some valve in the air filter needed replaced as it was sticking open. Got that fixed (and ended up having to buy a new radiator cap because my mechanic lost mine) check engine light was off for two days before coming back on again. Then the car started dying sometimes when I stopped. Not every time but often. Every time I stop though it starts making noises and jerking. I have found a new mechanic that I am taking it to this week. After reading these posts I think my Volvo is not the only one with these kinds of issues. I don't know anything about cars and there is no way I could rig some kind of switch if that's the issue. So what else can I do but dump $900 dollars more into it? Any ideas or suggestions? I really love Volvo's and I think they are great cars and have a great reputation. I'd really like to keep my car but I'm starting wonder if that's even possible. Have I been wrong all this time thinking Volvo's were great cars? Help!
  • gokempsgokemps Member Posts: 2
    $1,290 OBO

    Located in Greensboro, NC

    203,000 miles

    "Classic", 1 of 1600 made and the last year 240 was produced

    http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=262205107&dealer_id=64134891&ct=p
  • lostcrowlostcrow Member Posts: 2
    Looking for very good condition (rustfree, working lock, wiper motor,) rear hatch for 1986 240 DL Wagon. Near Ithaca, NY.
  • lostcrowlostcrow Member Posts: 2
    Searching for Volvo salvage upste NY.
  • moosepowermoosepower Member Posts: 1
    Someone posted this similar type description of symptoms on ipdusa.com and on
    brickboard.com and on vlvworld.com.
    The solution pointed to the AMM (air mass meter) to be causing this problem.
    Also, as an extra measure of assurance, make sure all the rubber and plastic hoses in the engine compartment are connected well. Air leaks in one of these hoses cause some of the weirdest and hardest to diagnose problems. Same goes for all electrical connectors too. Good luck!
  • belacbelac Member Posts: 1
    I am going to replace my ignition wires and fuel pump relay. Is it better to get the Bougicord with metal tips or rubber tips, and secondly where the heck is the fuel pump relay. I have a 1984 240 Volvo
  • dlukjandlukjan Member Posts: 1
    Was reading several posts earlier before I decided to see if my brother's fuel pump was the problem. Here is what I found. Fuel Pump relay is behind the carpet up high on the passenger side of the car on the firewall. It is usually white. I asked him to turn key while I listened and held the relay. No sound and could not feel the relay click when he turned the key off and on. There is a 20 amp fuse holder located under the hood on the drivers side above wheel well near the battery that sometimes corrodes. I pulled out the fuse, cleaned the tabs on the fuse connectors and reinserted. Wallah! He turned the key and the relay clicked and motor started. That fuse under the hood basically controls the whole shibang.
  • scott132scott132 Member Posts: 1
    I am the proud owner of a 1980 245 DL. I have rather been through the vehicle. replacing alt, brakes, lines, timing belt, lots of other sundry items. 2 weeks after getting it back on the road, my transmission is now stuck in low gear. I have checked the kickdown cable externally and it seems to be functioning.. I intend to change the fluid and filter at the beginning of the week. I do wonder though if I am looking at a lost cause, or if there is any hope of rescuing the transmission. Other than that, and struts sometime in the future, the vehicle is clean and runs quite well. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • datacruncherdatacruncher Member Posts: 2
    You should be able to pick up another Transmission from a Bone yard.
    If it still has less than 1,000,000 + you have a way to go.
    I have a 1992 Volvo 240gl that is giving me some electrical issue, will not spark, but determined to get it back on the road. Volvo are great cars never give them up for a lost causes. :)
  • datacruncherdatacruncher Member Posts: 2
    I have a 240 GL that is having a spark issue. I have replaced everything but the ECM which I hope it is not that. The Wife was accelerating from a stop light and it died no sputter nothing, it cranks well, Timing belt is intact, replace crank sensor, MAF, TPS, Fuel relays both Fuel pumps, Ignition control Module and coil. Fuses are all good.
    I guess ECM is next, I hope not.
  • persistentfoolpersistentfool Member Posts: 1
    How to access recessed hex nut in Volvo 240 wagon lift gate hinge? It's pressed against recessed rim in the lift gate, so I can't wrap around to grab it. I have to get out this nut to remove the hinge so I can insert a new harness cable into the lift gate. Very frustrating, seems impossible to grab the nut, but the hinge and lift gate seem normal, nothing shifted, and I assume there is a trick I don't understand to grab the nut. Thanks!!!!
  • brian143brian143 Member Posts: 1
    link">i have a 1982 volvo 245DL wagon with 298,968 miles on it
    the car runs great when i can get it started.
    the problem i am having is when you turn the key to start
    the motor starts but when you turn the key to run the motor dies.
    i have been working on this problem for a while an need some help
  • volvogirl4volvogirl4 Member Posts: 1
    two weeks ago, my '83 240 wagon completely cut out while driving 50 mph. no electrical or power at all and when tried to restart, absolutely no power to anything. had it towed to an electric specialist who jumped it, checked battery, alternator and complete electrical diagnostic and couldnt find anything wrong. drove fine for another 10 days and then the same thing just happened.
    any ideas? thanks!
  • scottie13scottie13 Member Posts: 1
    will not shift into OD replaced trans solenoid and OD relay. OD switch appears to be working light goes on and off when pressed. can the kickdown cable have anything to do with the OD problem.180,000 miles on original trans . any thoughts would be helpful How much will the kickdown cable cost to replace Labor only
  • mrwrickmrwrick Member Posts: 6
    Had similar problem with 93 240 wagon trans, would not shift into O/D. Turned out it was the fuse for the O/D shifter, not solenoid or cable. Try it.
  • wagonrollinwagonrollin Member Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 86 DL 240 wagon. 214000 mileage on her now. Seems to be tip top
    but it doesn't like starting below half tank o' gas. I've got about a year to make this beauty worthy of a cross country trip. Any tips on where to start the revamping process.
  • geogeo Member Posts: 23
    Wagonrollin, If I recall these have two fuel pumps .... if the one in the gas tank has a hose come off or stops working then you need more fuel in the tank to get adequate pressure to run right. See this post for detailed info: http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm

    George in Wisconsin
  • mrwrickmrwrick Member Posts: 6
    I have an intermittent starting problem in my 93 240 wagon, 138,000 miles ONLY. Sometimes, possibly after driving it and getting it hot, then after stopping, engine off, and getting back in to go somewhere else, when key is turned the dash lights all come on but NO sound or cranking from starter. Also, when this happens the shifter cannot be moved, even after pushing shift lock override button. Then, after sitting some time it will start, but this can take an hour, until it all cools down. I used to have this problem with a VW Bug starter, but that was a standard trans and it could be bump started, not so with this auto trans. What is it? How to fix? Thanks
  • mikerowinskimikerowinski Member Posts: 2
  • mikerowinskimikerowinski Member Posts: 2
    I'm trying to install a new latch mechanism on the rear seat of my 91 240 wagon. It appears that I need to remove the rear seat back to access the assembly. The bottom of the rear seat itself is simple to remove but I'm unable to remove the seat back. Repair manuals are unclear on the specifics of replacing this mechanism. Can someone instruct me on how to unlatch and remove the seat back? I think I can deal with it from there. Thanks.
  • juttep1juttep1 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1989 DL 240 wagon with 227,5xx miles on it. runs like a champ. idles quieter than some of my friends new cars. runs smooth at all RPMs and never has let me down. Doesn't burn any oil and even starts on cold winter morning. just thought i'd throw that out there.

    good luck with whatever you choose.

    cheers.
  • juttep1juttep1 Member Posts: 2
    1989 Volvo 240DL Wagon.
    2.3L I4.
    Runs great through all RPMs. Even idles really smooth.
    Only issue is sometimes it has difficulty starting; sometimes a lot of difficulty.
    Sometimes, more rarely, it back fires slightly.

    what it's not:

    its not the coil; had it checked.
    its not the battery; had it checked.
    it's not the spark plugs; they're new.

    maybe something with the timing? but i wouldn't think it would idle and run so well if so.

    maybe the starter is going out?? Can you get a starter tested?

    maybe a fuel pump? if it's a fuel pump i'd get an electric inline one and just mount a switch powering it on the dash b/c i don't think i'm qualified to drop the tank out and get a new one.

    qutie the perplexing car.

    Any help is appreciated greatty

    :confuse:

    -Paul J
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