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Volvo 240 Wagons

24

Comments

  • desssadesssa Member Posts: 4
    Thanks,
    I'll let you know if it works for me.
  • rwilson3rwilson3 Member Posts: 3
    I just purchased one and am wondering where to install the temperature sensor (transmitter). I read in an obscure post somewhere that it should be in the front, driver's side wheel well or something intake. Any more specific information would be appreciated.
  • amazonamazon Member Posts: 293
    THe question is; for the $2K, will you get a good car that will meet your needs? If you were an outsider, but knowing what you know about this car- Would you buy this car for $2K?
  • desssadesssa Member Posts: 4
    I paid 1K for my 1991.
    Since I bought it, I've put about 1K into it but it was all stuff that would go wrong with any car like muffler system and gas lines, that kind of stuff.
    2K seems a lot but you have to look at the body. If body is good, which it should be because Volvos actually have some metal in them, then that alone is worth a grand. If it runs well then it's a good deal. I find my wagon to be pretty good on gas too.
  • llk4042llk4042 Member Posts: 2
    I had the valve cover gasket replaced, the linkage to the automatic gear shift replaced and some belts tightened. A day later it started to make a bunch of increasingly worse noise and was spurting oil from the valve cover and the cam/crank shaft. I again had the gasket replaced on the valve cover.
    The mechanics told be that the car needs a new engine, it has a lot of "blow".
    But the noise was not present prior to the repairs.
    Now I'm thinking they created a problem.
    I found the crank shaft pulley under my car today.
    It did not have the narrow end on it any longer. What would cause it to fall off???? :mad: :cry:
    I have ordered an after market crank shaft pulley. Do the Volvo parts really outperform after market parts? The cost was 2.5X greater.
    Another question:
    Although I truly love my car, is it going to perform long enough to continue to justify the repairs? It has about 185,000 miles on it now.
    Thanks a bunch for your help. Feeling a bit desperate. :sick:
  • llk4042llk4042 Member Posts: 2
    This happened to me a few years ago. Very frustrating. It turned out to be the air/gas mixture. I can't remember exactly, but as I remember it didn't take much to fix it.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    Yvon Choinard, the fellow who owns Patagonia, apparently has a 240 wagon as his daily driver/surf board carrier. Thats a nice touch in a Mercedes/Bimmer filled world.
  • volvo_jennvolvo_jenn Member Posts: 1
    alright.. so I was driving on the highway going slightly uphill and I kind of shifted into 2nd (I have auto trans.) and I felt the car struggle for a moment and I immediately (within several seconds) shifted back to drive- then this horrid squealing sound came from the engine/transmission- so i pulled off as soon as i could and turned off the engine. The car only made this horrendous noise when i put the car into drive or an other gear. We immediately thought it was the tranny- so my brother just replaced the entire transmission and went to start up the car- and got the same sound as before! so now it looks like we replaces the tranny for nothing! has anyone ever had this issue??? We're at a loss right now- please help!!
  • jwatjwat Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 93 240 with 155,000 on it. Previous owner said it ran a little rough when cold but I did not expect it too be this bad! It idles okay but when you accelerate it lays down on you for like 10-20 seconds. this rough running continues until the engine is well warmed and the hesitation disappears. Any suggestions? I don't have my manuals yet...
  • loveyoumoreloveyoumore Member Posts: 1
    so, i've got an 89 240 dl wagon,155K miles- 5 speed manual transmission. had to replace the exhaust when i got it,it was totally rusted out. since then, not much! put new battery, new tires, new clutch, just replaced the front wiper motor-other than that, no real problems. oh, one thing- the air conditioner is not working-my mechanic said that it's not worth fixing - seems to be what you all are saying, too. also, the dang speakers are broken, but i can replace them, if i ever get around to it. I love my car. one of my daughter's friends wants to buy it when she gets her license, but i don't know if i want to part with it!!
    but you know the best thing about it? my kids are embarrassed by it. what more could i ask.
    karyn :shades:
  • yankeefan2yankeefan2 Member Posts: 53
    I driven Volvo for 30 yr. I have a 93 240 and a 2000 V70 XC. My wife saw the new Honda CRV and wanted one, but I didn't have the heart to get rid of the old 240 so, I'm going to keep it. It's nothing to insure and it so handy. You can do anything with it. I only have 165000 mi on it.
    It was and is the perfect car. :sick:
  • nomorevolvo93nomorevolvo93 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, it sounds like you're very familiar with the 240. I have a '93 240 sedan that is absolutely killing me. It was such a great, reliable, low maintenance car until 2 years ago. I am wondering if you ever had problems with "check engine", specifically something related to fuel injection, 'mass air flow', running too lean/rich alternately, running rough on startup and idle, and failing emissions/smog.

    I am in California, so of course the emissions are the strictest. however, the check engine light has been off and on for 1.5 years and has been 'fixed' by many different mechanics and cost me over $2000. I am at my wits' end and now hate the car, but I'm not sure whether to scrap it or fix it. What do you recommend? I was planning on taking it again to the local Volvo dealer (who after 3 days said it was just in need of a new O2 sensor, which did not resolved check engine or failing smog actually). Oh, and it also has a brand new catalytic converter, fix in exhaust leak supposedly, and many other things.

    Thank you!

    Julie
  • yankeefan2yankeefan2 Member Posts: 53
    Hello,

    The check engine light only come on when a electric sensor is not working. It could be your Mass air sensor or your O2 sensor. I live in RI but, I can't believe the local Volvo dealer couldn't fix it. He should have to equipment to test for problem. Hope this helps. Those sensor are only good for about 100,000 miles but, as always they could last longer. :sick:
  • bluevolvobluevolvo Member Posts: 4
    I am a recent purchaser of a 92 volvo 240 with 75000 orig miles. It is in great condition. I have a bulb check light that wont go out. All my bulbs are working were I need to check. How do I turn this light of from the instrument panel?
  • yankeefan2yankeefan2 Member Posts: 53
    If you take the Panel off on your spare tire side you can get at the back lights. On the bottom of the driver side light there is a ground wire that has a removable tang. That tang becomes corroded and give a false signal to your bulb out system. Clean this and reinstall and with luck your light should go out. It happens on mine every year or so depending on where you live. I live by the ocean and the salt water air does this to mine. Get back to me if that's it.

    Happy Driving :shades:
  • nomorevolvo93nomorevolvo93 Member Posts: 2
    I replaced the O2 sensor a while ago, and the check engine light came on again regardless-so Volvo dealership was wrong, and I again failed smog test. Now another shop is seeing diagnostic codes of "mass air flow sensor" and "fuel trim" too lean or rich. It's somethign to do with fuel injection???

    Also about taillights. I put several different new bulbs in my brake light, and it still won't work. I've been told it's because the flat sheet thing that the bulb metal tongs screw onto contact with is bad and needs replacing. Unfortunately, the car at this point has cost over $2500 in 20 months, and it only has 136,000 miles. So much for Volvo reputation of lasting 300K +. The car is nothing but problems!
  • yankeefan2yankeefan2 Member Posts: 53
    I think it's time for you to purchase a new car. ;)
  • zzonezzone Member Posts: 1
    still looking for a 240 wagon? I have a 85 240 turbo 4sp/od elec windows, cruise,factory alloy wheels extra nice body and running gear with 152,000 miles. If you or anyone are interested let me know. Thanks, Alan
  • bouncybouncy Member Posts: 1
    My 240 quit. Inline fuel pump was bad. Replaced it with a used one and also got a new relay. No electricity at the terminals. Does this mean the in-tank fuel pump is bad or something else? If so, What?
  • heavyhorsemanheavyhorseman Member Posts: 1
    Do you want to sell your 89 wagon?
  • bryanjoybryanjoy Member Posts: 4
    well i just found this site, but i have had the same problem with my 240dl wagon too. i found out it was the fuel relay( located under the carpet on the front passenger floorboard up against the firewall by the main computer)
    i had a mechanic replace it, but he screwed up and made it so i had to put in, and take out a fuse every time i wanted to start and stop the car. so i fixed that problem by wiring in a switch and located the switch on my dashboard.

    i know im a bit late with this solution, but there you have it anyway. its the fuel relay going out that causes the intermittent stalling.
  • bryanjoybryanjoy Member Posts: 4
    ">well hello everyone. i purchased a 84 240dl wagon in 2002 for $800.00 from origional owner. older lady who barely drove it, and garaged it always. the reason she sold it so cheap was that she thought it needed major engine work. when i first tried to start it, it would not turn over. i opened up the hood and found that the #1 and #3 spark plug wires were off the plugs. i reconnected them, and proceded to start the car. upon firing i kept my foot on the gas to warm it up a bit. after i let off the gas it stalled. i thought this weird as it was an automatic. so i started it again, and as i let off the gas (slowly) i watched the tack. dismayed, and jaw in my lap as i watched it drop below 500rpm then stall again. at this point i went back under the hood and adjusted the idler control and brought the idle speed just above 1,000rpm, and she ran relatively smoothly. i immediatly gave the lady $250.00 and asked her to take the for sale sign out of the window, and agreed to pay her the rest at the end of the week when i got paid.
    i have been runing that same volvo since. took it to hell, beyond, and back several times. she has held up like a champion, and i am proud to have found her. she had imaculate interior, and origional paint and body( no scratches or dents), AND only 116,000 miles when i bought her. thats about 5,000 miles a year.
    now the sad part of my story is that her veins( wiring) is deteriating, and i have had to creat switches just to keep her running. reverse lights, fuel relay, ignition, windows, starter, and license plate light are all on new switches and temp wiring. i have searched for weeks looking for a new wiring harness for the whole car( not just the engine). im begining to think she will be lost to the junk yard if i cant get some help soon. there r new problems weekly, and im begining to lose hope.
    if there is someone out there that has a 84 240dl wagon that is just sitting around and has no use for it, i would love to have the wiring harness, or if there is someone that is selling a 84 240dl wagon please let me know. i found one on ebay, but cant afford that price. please help.
  • vlhatchvlhatch Member Posts: 7
    How can one make an 86 240 DL Volvo stall? My mechanics say that if we could figure out how to make it stall, we might be able to fix it. They have driven it for miles with two of them in the vehicle at the ready with gauges etc. to detect and analyze the problem on the spot. They have each experienced the stalling phenomenon and are eager to discover the cause of the problem and solve it.
  • bryanjoybryanjoy Member Posts: 4
    i have found only 2 reasons that a 240 DL would stall.
    1: the idle is too low, which dont seem to be the problem since they have been driving it around for a while.
    2: which is the 1 that got me started in rigging mine with switches. the fuel relay is intermittenly causing the car to stall because it is about to fail completely. it is located under the carped at the passengers feet bu the computer. its a little square relay, and can be replaced easily. if this doesnt help, then im not sure what else it could be.
    hope this helps you in your quest to fix the proble.
  • miata2miata2 Member Posts: 2
    Take off one of the battery cables for a few seconds when you put the cable back on the car will start with the light off. Make sure that you have the code for the stereo if it's the original factory model. After markets don't have a code I am aware of.
    If the light comes back on but the car runs smooth at idle and start in cold weather you may need to run some fuel cleaner.

    The car has a computer with a code system that tells what area is in need of attention.

    I have owned 5 240 volvos and my experience with the check engine light is fuel/ air mixture.
  • miata2miata2 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with a 93 240;

    After about a year of trying different things I found a local mechanic that had a volvo and he put on a rebuilt mass air flow meter and the car runs like new. The part and labor was less than 75.00 dollars.

    New mass air meters are about 300.00 and up.
  • rwilson3rwilson3 Member Posts: 3
    I have installed a vacuum gauge (why? to fill a vacant gauge location) in my '91 240 wagon. When I start-up, the the gauge registers around 20+/- inches which I believe is okay. However, when I start driving (city) the vacuum will dip all of the way to 0 inches and will stay in the 5-10" range. I'm sure that the vacuum will drop during acceleration; however, is this much of a drop normal?

    I have read that vacuum gauges are good instruments for indicating several types of possible engine problems. Being a very inexperienced mechanic, what are some engine trouble signs that a vacuum gauge will show besides a vacuum leak, etc.

    Thanks!
  • 240_guy240_guy Member Posts: 1
    What is the easiest way to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and is it right or left-hand treads?
  • stickbuilderstickbuilder Member Posts: 4
    I suppose that I should feel shortchanged. My 1985 240 GL Wagon has 105,000 miles on the odometer, and has yet to give me any problems of any kind. The service has been kept to the letter, and the only parts that the wagon has required is brake pads, plugs, belts, hoses and wiper blades. Am I looking at any problems in the near future? If so, I will probably get rid of the old boat. It would be a shame, since the leather still looks like nearly new, and the finish is original and still shines. I guess that keeping it in the garage does help. :shades:
  • fdebragfdebrag Member Posts: 2
    Can someone please tell me the difference between a 240 and a "classic" 240?
  • stickbuilderstickbuilder Member Posts: 4
    With most commodities, the difference is the price. Seems as though when the term, "Classic" is applied, the price goes up...
  • michaeltdyermichaeltdyer Member Posts: 1
    The Volvo 240 Classic was a special edition of the 240. Only 1,600 were produced in April and May of 1993, half wagons and half sedans; fully equipped interior, body-matched painted grilles and side mirrors, special 14" alloy wheels, "Classic" badges on hatch/decklid, production-number plaque in dash, and special paint colors — ruby red or metallic dark teal green. There are also, however, some classics without all this equipment. Some 1992 model year classics were produced as early as 1991.

    Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_200_series
  • bervo119bervo119 Member Posts: 1
    What city are you in? I have a 84 240dl wagon that I want to sell.
    Cheers. Brad
  • bryanjoybryanjoy Member Posts: 4
    i am in Bullhead City, AZ. you can reach me directly at lordandmasterofdragons@yahoo.com
    or by phone at (714) 791-4262 cell phone
    lets talk
  • jedbjedb Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I have an '88 240 wagon which won't shift into fourth gear. Fuse #11 is fine. I replaced the overdrive relay hoping that was it but no luck. I can still toggle the "4th gear disconnect" light on the dash on and and off with the button on the stick. Transmission fluid is good and the kickdown cable looks ok, it has not been adjusted for a long time.

    Where do I go from here?

    Thanks
    Jed
  • nquigleynquigley Member Posts: 1
    My son's '91 240 has identical problems, but the very experienced volvo mechanic we use is stumped. He refers to the way it runs as 'loping'. The voltage being supplied to the air mass meter is 1-2 tenths of a volt less than the min. voltage the AMM is meant to be getting, but he can't work out why.
    Does anyone know the various causes of low voltage supply to the AMM?
    He has switched many parts from a good 240, but none has fixed our problem (incl AMM, AMM's wiring harness, O2 sensor, computer, some idle switch position indicator?, and other bits and pieces).
  • peskatarianpeskatarian Member Posts: 1
    I am desperately needing a new car and I have a love for Volvo design. I've always liked them and there is a 1987 240 DL wagon for sale that I have my eye on. It has 156k miles and appears to be in very nice shape for its age.

    I know everyone here is partial to them, but my family of course tells me that they are expensive to repair, and that a car that age may have hidden problems. Before buying the car, I will take it to the nearest Volvo service facility for an inspection, but I wanted to hear from some owners before purchasing as well.

    Are there any major problems, recalls, etc., that I should be aware of? Maybe an issue with that model and year that I should find out if it has been resolved?

    ANY feedback would be greatly appreciated. I am looking forward to becoming an owner soon, and would love some assistance! Thanks guys!

    Brian

    email: Peskatarian@gmail.com
  • jetjrjetjr Member Posts: 1
    windshield wipers turn on and stay on when car is started and do not respond to wiper controls.

    initially, wipers would turn on automatically whenever the car went over a bump in the road. then a mechanic changed passenger-side hinge wires and the problem went away for a week. now the problem is back and actually worse because wipers are always on if the car is on.

    mechanic's next step would be to check entire wiring system under floormats, etc.

    any suggestions would help. thanks.
  • fdebragfdebrag Member Posts: 2
    When I put the vehicle n gear intially, it feels like the brake is stuck and the car doesn't want to move, once I get going, the ABS brake light comes on around 60 MPH. My mechanic first found a bolt missing and replaced it. That didn't work. He then replaced the rotors, pads, brakes, and backing plates, that didn't fix it. He recently replaced the control arm, that didn't fix it. I am thousands of dollars in debt due to an ABS brake light. Does anyone know what the fix is for this problem???
  • tefftrtefftr Member Posts: 3
    :confuse: 1991 Volvo wagon w/196,000 mi. won't start. A mechanic friend traced it to electrical impulses (or lack of) to the fuel injector, by connecting a Bosch node to one of the electrical injectors contacts, with no signs of life. This was reinforced by spraying ether into the air intake, causing the engine to briefly run. There is sufficient gas reaching the injectors. Question:is there a relay between this car's computer unit and the fuel injectors. If so, where? My Bently 240 tech manual wiring diagram points to one, but we haven't been able to locate it. I want to eliminate a relay (if there is one), before writing off the computer unit. Any suggestions/help would be appreciated!!!
  • vlhatchvlhatch Member Posts: 7
    What does a Hall sensor do in a Volvo 240?
  • vlhatchvlhatch Member Posts: 7
  • ron_is_here_99ron_is_here_99 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 86 240 and am having the same problems of shifiting into 4th. It does sometimes. If i click the od switch a few times some times it shifts, or if i am driving a certain speed over 60 it will shift, a lot of times it don't shift into 4th.
    I have changed the filter/screen and oil, i messed up the gasket and replaced the oil and gasket again, then changed the solenoid with a new one at $165. and no luck, then i changed the relay at $45. and it still shifts when it wants to. sometimes hot, some times cold. The kick down cable seems ok too. I talked to a volvo mech at volvo and he ashured me that it was either the selenoid or relay, well both are replaced and it still does it. the white wire that goes from the shifter through the floor board to the solenoid is raw in a few places so i put some gorilla tape around it, that is the only thing left to do (i think) if i do need to replace it, how do i do it? PLEASE HELP, i want to get another 100 k out of it.
    Is the car suposed to automatically down shift when yo uhit 40 mph?
    Also, my aftermarket cruise control works about the same way, when it wants. I checked the lines and didn't find any leaks any suggestions to that?
  • rwilson3rwilson3 Member Posts: 3
    It continues to be an ongoing problem for my '91 240 Wagon. Except, it consistently starts to behave normall after the first 15 minutes of driving. Then, it starts to magically shift to 4th. If I stop and shut down the engine for a few minutes and then go again, it will continue to work. But shut down long enough for "something" to cool off or whatever, no shifting for another 15 minutes. I've replaced the fluid, filter and added a transmission additive that has been recommended (and has shown to have worked according to other groups). It is a very frustrating problem. Not fatal, since the car will eventually start to shift properly...but nonetheless, frustrating since no Volvo mechanic-young or old-can get past the relay/solenoid fix. Anyway, if anyone has any revelations, any or all would be appreciated very much.
  • tefftrtefftr Member Posts: 3
    I'll answer my own e-mail in hopes this will help someone else. I had a Volvo specialist look at and correct this problem: The solution was a dual electro-mechanical relay module, located under the passenger side, near the Bosch computer unit, on the right. The module has a white cover, which can be pulled off. Inside are two electra-mechanical relays. One relay controls the fuel pump and the other sends a signal to the computer unit, to enable the the fuel injectors. Apparently, there was a hairline crack in the relays' circuit board, which caused the intermittent starts. My "Brick" is back to its road worthy self, once again.
  • vlhatchvlhatch Member Posts: 7
    Stalling started in September 2006. Dealer tried to cure. Gave up. Local foreign auto repair shop worked on vehicle for several months trying different remedies. Finally, about ready to give up, they installed a Hall's sensor in the distributor (if I understand correctly); and, I haven't had a stall incident since. Thank you.
  • klippityklippity Member Posts: 1
    I broke the manual antenna (car wash fatality) off my 240 and had the bright idea to replace it with a power antenna unit. Antenna showed up without an "installation kit"and I was told by a dealer there isn't one available :(.
    I can deal with some fabrication on my own but the upper bolt that supports the antenna and keeps it from falling into the trunk does not fit the power unit ( manual antenna stud is smaller diameter. Volvo does not have the larger bolt and rubber boot available anymore for '92 sedan !!! HELP..........
  • tefftrtefftr Member Posts: 3
    An update on my random non-starting Volvo: I probably wasted about 200 dollars for a dual relay (the one with a white plastic cover, located under the passenger side dash, near the Jetronic computer) and associated labor. About a week after the relay replacement, my Volvo resumed it's start and no-start episodes. Long story short: Fifth fuse down from the top, a 16A fuse. A casual look revealed nothing, not blown and the fuse seemed in place. But, when I reached down to remove and examine it, I found it was loose in its holder. One side of the fuse was blackened and pitted, from arcing! So, by cleaning, tightening the holder, and replacing the 16A fuse, I have been trouble free for several weeks. The moral of this for me (and skilled mechanics as well.) Start with the basics, and don't assume anything!
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    Glad it was a simple fix but sorry you wasted $200 on the other repair first.
  • drifter28drifter28 Member Posts: 2
    Check to see if you're getting spark. If so, check the fuel system. The fuel filter seem to get clogged easily, but at least it's easy to get to. (big canistor on the firewall, right hand side.) Same thing to my Volvo 240, I checked the Fuel Pump then change Volvo 240 fuel injectors. And also have a check up in your Electrical System.
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