BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

530ir1150r · February 2005

Check your odometer against the mileposts along the road. Mine has always been 3% low. My speedometer is also at least 3% fast. That should not be more than 1 MPG, but I tend to believe the computer is right and the gauges you use to calculate your gas mileage are the problem, especially if your car runs right.

mikar · February 2005

I think that the oil service lights are driven by the amount of fuel consumed. This is BMW's way of avoiding the odometer method of determining oil change intervals which can be misleading depending on the type of driving that the car does (highway vs. city). I read somewhere that the new 5 might have a sensor that checks the quality of the oil but I can't confirm that.

On your noise issue, can you pinpoint the source when you open the hood? It could be many things including fan blades touching the cowl, a water pump saying good-bye or harmless "idler gear rattle" (if you have a manual tranny). I can't think of anything related to the steering column that could cause a noise at idle.

If you're not a do-it-yourself-er I'd get your car to a mechanic. If it turns out to be fan or water pump related, things could get nasty if a part decides to let go.

donelon1 · February 2005

My brother owns a 2004 545 with the SMG transmission. I am considering getting one also. However, when the SMG is in full-auto mode, the shifting between the first and second gear is very jerky. After that, it shifts pretty smooth between the gears. It this a common symptom or something unique to his car. Unlike the SMG on the M3, you cannot vary the shifting mode on this SMG.

jas · February 2005

Needs to be reset.

The oil life monitoring systems are typically fairly complicated algorithms that take into account driving conditions, temperatures, cold starts... to determine when the oil is reaching the end of it's life. It is not a sensor that detects the quality of the oil.

Depending on when you get around to resetting it, you may want to take that into account for the next oil change.

jas · February 2005

Have not checked the speed, but the odo seems to be fairly accurate based on checking the mileage of my commute.

Trip computer functions are secondary calculations for the ECM and have nothing to do with how well the car runs, unless there is a problem with speed sensors or flow/MAP sensors.

Since the car runs right, I tend to believe that all of the sensors are working. Further, since there are no problems with the car, I don't want the dealer to start changing sensors for a function that does not affect my driving with the risk of screwing something up - at least at this point.

My calculation is pretty straight forward and I did it about a 2 dozen times - always with fairly consistent results: Mileage from the trip computer and fuel pumped.

What I need is some other 545i owners to run the same test.

glaker · February 2005

While this might not be completely on point, I believe the indicator bars are intended for service needs which are more involved than just an oil change. I had the oil changed in my 03 530 after one year of service (as required) even though only four of the five green bars had disappeared. I thought the dealer would reset the lights also, but they said no. About 4K later the yellow service warning bar came on and the car needed to go back for the "Maintenance 1" service where they again changed the oil. This time thet re-set the light bar. I inquired about it on this board and all the people whom I have come to highly respect for their knowledge of all things BMW agreed with the dealer! Could that be why the dealer didn't re-set your light?

jas · February 2005

Good point. From the initial posting, I had the assumption, which may be wrong, that the service was performed by an independent mechanic that did not have the capability of resetting the indicator (which a friend of mine had in the past). Also, since it was stated as an oil life gauge/bar, I did not realize that this may incorporate more than just oil life as is the case with the later models.

My response was to address the fact that the oil life determination is not a sensor and is much more than just miles driven, fuel used or time.

So, I guess the question remains as to what is involved with the service indicator in '98 (oil life, break system flush...) and was all the service performed that you feel is needed? Then either reset the light or have the service performed.

Don't have a '98, so I'll shut up now and let someone that does answer the question.

randogrulz · February 2005

the handle broke so i got a new one to replace it with. today we put it on but it still doesnt open the door from the inside. we pulled on the cable and it opened the latch but when we closed up the inside panel it didnt work. yoiu could hear it but it didnt open. has anyone encountered this problem before? wondering if there is a motor there for it. any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks

jking · February 2005

I have a 2004 545 with SP and the run-flats.
Although they are acceptably comfortable, I have found out after buying the car that these tires
are much more uncomfortable due to the thick sidewalls.

They apparently wear out much faster, and generate a lot of noise once they get between 10k to 20k miles.

Does anyone have any experience with these tires, and are there any alternatives without going to runflats ?

Since I am not an aggressive driver, are there any all-season or touring tires that are more comfortable ?

Feedback would be greatly appreciated.

div2 · February 2005

There is a subtle trick to refitting the interior door handles. This page should help you get it working correctly:
http://bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/door/doorhandle.htm

jlbl · March 2005

My calculation is done from odo mileage and fuel pumped. The result does not coincide sometimesbut only sometimeswith that of the trip computer when this has not been reset during a whole period between tank refilling. (I use the trip computer mainly to calculate the consume of any of several trips that altogether do complete the mileage between a tank refilling and the nextI can drive up to 600 miles with a tank.) But my tests are done on a 2004/530d , I am not sure if they are useful to you.

On the other hand, there is someone who knows whether keeping in filling the tank after the automatic stop has worked can mislead the trip computer calculations? I tend to believe so.

Regards

Jose

gabman · March 2005

I just picked up a new 2004 545i w/o Sp so I have A/S 17" Continentals on mine. I have been reading on another forum that in the run flat tires, BMW was switching from Dunlops to Bridgestone Potanza SO3.

In non run flats Michelin Pilot Sports or Pirelli P Zero Nero are highly recommended.

Do you have a spare tire?

jas · March 2005

I have a late year 2004 545i SP with the Dunlop run-flats. I was actually surprised how the E60's (18"-wheels and active roll) ride is compared to the E39 SP with 17"

Although, when these go for me, I will probably opt for a non-run flat tire.

Tires opinions are like elbows - everybody has one.

I was doing some research for the future and here is what I found:

- the Michelin Pilot Sports are a great performance tires as well as the new Goodyear (forget all the letters) which is supposed to be very impressive. A previous posting had some opinions on the new Goodyear.
- If you are not a totally aggressive drive, the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S has an all season rating and a much higher tread life (400).
- Yokohama makes a tire that has a decent tread life (280) and is priced very reasonably. It does not compare to some of the high end Dunlop/Michelin/Goodyear..., according to the race experts, but may be a good option for someone who is not pushing the car to it's limits.

jas · March 2005

Jose,

Thanks for the info. To do my tests, I had given it one slow kick after the automatic stop to make sure it was not kicked out from an air bubble. I have performed the fills from multiple stations, so I think the error factor is minimal.

It seems like your calculation is good.

600 miles to a tank is great. I get about 400 - 450.

randogrulz · March 2005

thanks we figured out the turning it the opposite way to get it in. but it doesnt open the door. you can hear it all the way to the latch but it doesnt open the door. we were thinking maybe its something to do with the latch

seloo · March 2005

Okay BMW experts here is one for you.

03 525i 13K

When the car encounters rough or uneven pavement, there is a rattle noise from both front wheels, but mostly heard on the driver's side (you must have the windows open to hear the rattle). This happens even when the brakes are applied. The noise is tinny metal on metal sound.

Everything is tight and all looks normal.

Please advise.

rich545 · March 2005

Has anyone noticed a substantial increase in road noise with the Dunlop SP 01 DSST tires that come on the 545i after about 9000 miles? There's a lot of discussion about it on the E60.net website so I wanted to see if anyone here had similar problems. I noticed it on mine when I just put them back on in place of my winter tires. Apparently BMW has stopped putting them on E60's due to all of the complaints. Pretty ridiculous for tires with only 9000 miles. I may have to do what others have done and try to get my dealer to replace them.

jas · March 2005

I have 8700 miles on mine right now and so far they are quite. I will let you know.

Let me know what happens with the dealer.

jking · March 2005

I guess the runflats negate the need for spares, as mine did not come with one.

I have also heard good things about the two tire choices you mention.

Thanks for the reply.

jking · March 2005

Thanks, I hear good things about the Michelins also.

jas · March 2005

BMW listed in their brochure that the 545i with run flat tires did not have a spare. But, it seems the US cars had them. I was pleasantly surprised to find one mounted in my trunk.

I always feel more comfortable having an actual spare, even if it is a space saver.

I am sure you could even pick up one from a junk yard as I would assume most of the 5 series would use the same one.

lovemyclk · March 2005

I've got approx. 2000 miles on a set of P Zero Nero summer tires on my 2003 530 SP. Live in Atlanta, so all-seasons not a big deal. Traded Dunlop SP Sport 2000's after 20,000 miles. Verdict is quite positive so far for noise and dry/wet handling.

seloo · March 2005

Okay BMW experts here is one for you.

03 525i 13K

When the car encounters rough or uneven pavement, there is a rattle noise from both front wheels, but mostly heard on the driver's side (you must have the windows open to hear the rattle). This happens even when the brakes are applied. The noise is tinny metal on metal sound.

Everything is tight and all looks normal.

Please advise.

shipo · March 2005

Hmmm, I'd look at the front-lower-half-plastic-inner-fender-liners (that is a mouthful) as the potential culprit. I found that both sides on my 2002 530i had been torn loose, and both would rattle when the car was traversing uneven pavement. I was able to buy replacements at my local BMW dealership for about $17.50 each, and they are fairly easy to install.

FWIW, the liners that I bought were of an obvious redesign since my car was built, and just as obviously, more substantial.

Another thing that occurs to me is that your liners may "look" fast and secure, however, the lower-front-middle-screw mates with a clip that attaches to a trailing piece of the bumper skin (if I recall correctly), and I suppose that it would be possible for the clip to lose its attachment to the bumper and still be securely screwed to the fender-liner. That would rattle too, and if that is the case, it is a very simple fix to simply re-attach the clip to the bumper skin.

Disclaimer: The above is based on the SWAG* method of debugging (I'm a programmer), so it's worth what you paid for it. ;-)

*SWAG = Sophisticated Wild [non-permissible content removed] Guess

Best Regards,
Shipo

kyfdx · March 2005

SWAG... pretty impressive..

I'm only certified for WAG...

shipo · March 2005

Same thing...

WAG in Kentucky is the same as SWAG in the Boston area. The only difference is that with all of the laid-off techi-types around here (many still from the time when the DOT BOOM went DOT BOMB), there has to be a differentiation between the young bucks and us old Grey Beards. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

jas · March 2005

Rich, I took the opportunity on my way into work to turn off my stereo, close the sunroof cover and listen to my tires wine. 9700 miles now, and it is noticeable.

It seems like the wine is also more pronounced when decelerating. Do you find this true of yours?

I drive alot of highway and my tread is very good - should get 25k out of the tires, but I am starting to worry about how much the noise will increase.

Have you received any response from your dealer.

rgrossman · March 2005

Sorry for the long delay coming back to everyone on this problem I reported in January. Not sure if anyone else has addressed it since so apologies if this is redundant.

After going over a month without the battery dying the dead battery problem cropped up again in a more persistant manner in mid-February. It turns out that I had a bad blower motor resistor in my HVAC system. This was causing the intermittent power drain to the battery. Apparently this is a relatively common problem among BMWs. The major problem is, of course, when it is only an intermittent fault it is hard to diagnose. One clue the resistor is bad is that your climate control appears to be functioning on the dashboard but no air is coming out of the vents. Hope this helps someone out in the future.

seloo · March 2005

Thank you for your reply. I checked the liners, everything was fine. It sounds like loose brake pads, but the noise is there even when I apply the brakes.

Any other ideas?

shipo · March 2005

Hmmm, loose brake pads...

There is a heavy duty spring steel clip (that is supposed to be) on each caliper, I wonder if it is missing or loose.

Best Regards,
Shipo

div2 · March 2005

My wife's commuter sled is a 1997 528i and it has the same rattle. At 115K nothing has fallen off, so when I have to drive it I just keep the window rolled up.

louiec · March 2005

it even happen worst in automatic specially when you're from a high gear then to an almost full stop will the delay be felt as if the engine will die. The dealer have reset it before and still doing the same. I think its a defect that is already known to them but wont tell the owners of these cars.

cramped530 · March 2005

I just purchased a 2003 530 w/sport package. I love the car except for one thing....I feel cramped up against the fuel pedal (which feels like it sits straight up and down). I have removed the block from the chair rail, and can move the seat back far enough so my legs aren't cramped, but the steering wheel doesn't come out enough to make a comfortable reach. I am only 6'3", certainly not extraordinarily tall. Anyone else have this problem? any solutions?

My last car was an A6Q, and didn't have this problem.

bimmer21 · March 2005

OK everyone this is all new to me and I seriously need help. I have a 1997 318is, 1989 325is, and a 1994 525i. My problem is with the 525i. I am having a problem with my tail lights, rear parking lights. neither works but all others do. Has anyone experience this problem before. HELP!

fishdreams · March 2005

I have a 2000 528- I am the original owner and it has the original battery. That little circle on the battery is black, which means it needs recharging. I called the dealer about this and he said the battery should be replaced. I'm inclined to agree w/him- 5 years seems reasonable for a battery- is recharging not a good idea? I have also heard that replacement batteries are not as good as the OEM batteries- is this still true? That does not make sense to me if it's a BMW battery. Also, I have heard that DIY is not a good idea- there are certain computer codes that get lost when the battery is pulled out that have to be reset by the dealer or someone who knows what they are doing (definitely not me- I'm a girl with no mechanical abilities). Does anyone even make a replacement battery for this car? The dealer wants about $300 (200 for the batt and 100 labor)- I think this is highway robbery but do not know if I have a lot of choice. Thanks in advance for your advice.

div2 · March 2005

The dealer is trying to hose you big time-tell him I said so...;) Is the car cranking slow? You need to top up the battery cells with distilled water every six months or so. Do that and your battery will last quite a while; my 1995 318t1 and 1997 528i still have their original batteries. The BMW OEM batteries don't seem to be as robust as the ones that come with the cars. I would get an Interstate MTP-93. You can expect to pay from $107-$129 for it. Make sure that you get the vent kit as well so that you can connect it to the vent hose in the car. Any mechanic can change the battery. At worst you may lose your radio or on board computer settings.

fishdreams · March 2005

div2- thanks for the info- since I have not been topping off the battery for the last five years (maybe the dealer did that when I took it in for the maintenance/oil changes-here's hoping)- have I shortened the life of the battery? I have a very short commute to work (3.5 miles each way) so the car does not often get a long stretch of driving. Would going on a road trip help charge it up? The car cranks fine now. Should I wait till it begins cranking slowly? My past experience w/car batteries is they just die one day- no warning- I don't want this to happen so I thought I would go ahead and replace it, but maybe it has a ways to go even tho that indicator circle on the battery is black. What do you think? BTW, what about the radio and OBC settings? Do you mean the radio just loses the presets (I can live w/that)?

div2 · March 2005

Yes, the dealer is supposed to check the battery level but most don't do it. I'd take it to someone you trust and have the battery load tested. If it tests out marginal I'd go ahead and replace it. And I was referring to the radio presets. Swapping a battery is really easy; it shouldn't take more than fifteen minutes-and all you need are the wrenches in the trunk mounted tool kit.

fishdreams · March 2005

Just took the car to AutoZone and had them test the battery- came back OK- Low Charge, which the guy said meant something was causing the battery to discharge. I left the glove compartment open a couple of times all nite in the last 2 weeks- could that cause the low charge msg and will the batt charge back up on its own if that is the problem? the battery in there is maintenance-free, BTW. And I did find someone locally that has that Interstate battery you mentioned for $110. Far cry from the $300+ the dealer wants. FWIW, the dealer is Roadshow in Memphis- they have a monopoly here and they exploit that to their advantage in a big way!

div2 · March 2005

Your battery really isn't maintenance free; it just says it is-check this page out:
http://www.bmwdiy.info/battery-maint/index.html
I'd say a few longer trips will likely charge it back up. If you do decide to top off the water level I'd suggest driving it for an hour or so right after doing it or you may have a truly dead battery on your hands. If you only drive the car for short distances you might also want to get a battery tender like the one mentioned on the above site.

fishdreams · March 2005

Thanks, div2. Very interesting about the maintenance on a maintenance free battery. I think I will take my chances, drive a lot this weekend, and hope the battery lasts a while longer. If not, I will take your advice on the Interstate battery. Thanks again.

div2 · March 2005

Always glad to help another 5er owner!

yara · April 2005

Hi every body,
Please advise me regarding buying a car from this list
BMW 520i
Mercedes 240E
Lexsus 300ES

andys120 · April 2005

I'm thinking everyone on this board will tell ya to get the Bimmer so let me be the first.<:-)

What ever you do don't get the 300ES, it's just a glorified Camry, dull as dirt.

Karen_S · April 2005

This discussion is not intended for comparing the 5-series with other make/models. Check the Sedans Comparison board for topics that may concern your decision.

kerfoot · April 2005

You've probably had the answer to this already as it was two years ago! However I had the same problem myself, by starting the car for a few seconds to move it and then switching off you flooded the engine. The click, click is because the motor is spinning and not gripping because of excess fuel. Because of the catalytic converter and fuel injection there is nowhere for the unused fuel to go, trying to start it just exaserbates the problem as it pumps more fuel in. I had the RAC out and they said it can take days to clear by itself. The solution: turn it over continously until it tries to fire up then pause and put your foot on the accelerator (gas I believe you call it) and turn over again, it will eventually start with a big puff of burned fuel out the back!

curtisl1 · April 2005

Hi

I own a E60 2004 530i. I had a strange occurence the other day and wonder if anyone knows anything about it and what should I do?

I was coming to a complete stop at an intersection, and when i had come to a complete stop, my car started to choke and make clung clung noises and the brakes failed to work, i had continuing pressing the brakes, but was still going about 5-10km/hr, and the car had gone into the intersection, so i decided to floor it. After a few seconds, the brakes were fine, but I have lost confidence in the safety of the car right now. I am going to phone BMW to tell them about the problem tomorrow, but any help on this subject would be appreciated.

Thanks

Curtis

kyfdx · April 2005

I doubt the brakes failed, but as your engine was dying (which is what I assume the "choking and clung, clung" means), you likely lost the power assist to the brakes...

If you've never driven a vehicle without power brakes, the amount of brake pedal pressure needed to slow or stop the car is startling..

I think you had an engine problem, not a brake problem..

regards,
kyfdx

andys120 · April 2005

I think you had an engine problem, not a brake problem..

I think Kyfdx is right. You want to find out why the motor suddenly dies leaving you w no power assists.

curtisl1 · April 2005

thanks for your help guys, but I took the car to BMW and they found out my DSC was faulty. It wasn't an engine problem.

thanks, curtis

BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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