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I just purchased a 1995 525i, and in just two months, I am having problems with the driver-side power window. Can anyone tell me if this will be a high-maint, constant-repair car? The toss-up was between this and a MB E300.
Do you know how or if I can get this fixed?
Thanks
The dust covers are directional, and you can't do cross tire rotation. You have to take the dust covers off, and reinstall them on the right wheel.
I am taking them off, I much rather clean the wheels than replacing rotors. Rotors need cross ventilation both from outside of the wheels, and from front bumper air ducts.
Re: patelli's post (#102). Thanks for the heads up -- sorry I didn't read it before today. Long Beach BMW is arrogant. I spend 45 minutes on the phone with the founder, asking why he neither he nor his son (the current general manager) had ever responded to a complaint e-mail about one of their salesmen. He got defensive, then apologized, then said the salesman, a guy named Mike Rhoades, doesn't usually deal with the customers. The only reason I got stuck with Rhoades was that I bought my car through a broker. Ergo it was my fault his employee had hung up on me -- if I'd only come into the dealership myself, I would've experienced one of his friendly, helpful salespeople. So why don't I come on down to Long Beach BMW, the finest dealership in Southern California for my next vehicle? Or maybe the little lady's in the market for something peppy. Maybe in red?
Nothing like a career car salesman to send an oil slick down a phone line.
So the upshot is, the car isn't a lemon, but Long Beach BMW is. Best of luck to everyone else.
I wanted to verify there was no additional damaged under my car so I took it to Plaza Motors in St. Louis. It was the most pleasant auto service center that I have ever experienced. They realigned all of the plastic and rubber pieces that were moved during the accident and did a thorough check. Fortunately, nothing else was damaged. They did all of this for no charge to me. They even provided a no-cost BMW loaner car for me to use while my car was serviced. They had my car very clean when I picked it up.
If anyone is in the St. Louis area, I highly highly recommend Plaza Motors for service needs.
To clean the wheels, I just use car wash detergent and old wash rag. The dust comes off the wheels easily if I clean 'em every other week. Waxing the wheels frequently help brake dust not stick as hard to wheels.
Please help with your comments.
Any help would be appreciated. Not being able to drive my new car is killing me. And worrying that this might be a serious problem is making it worse. I know the dealer is supposed to take care of it, but I dread the prospect of a bunch of fingerpointing and numerous trips to the dealership to get it resolved.
Take both heater hoses off that go to firewall, add an adapter that makes a loop from both inlet and outlet hoses to heater core back to engine. If the problem stops (which it should ), then the heater core is the problem.
Before you get into all this, I suggest replacing the window switch with the one on the passenger side first to see if the problem is a faulty switch. Also, check the fuse under the hood. More than likely the problem is with the motor being jammed, however. As a temporary fix and before you get into a costly repair, you may want to hit with the palm of your hand (not too hard) the side panel from inside toward the bottom of the door (that's where the motor is) trying to unjam the motor. Good luck.
Has anybody had similar problem with their car?
I much prefer manuals. There always seem to be a distinct delay in nearly all automatic transmissions. Even the best ones. That is the nature of the beast.
As the article states, different remedies were devised to deal with this. Whether the particular car you're looking at had just a new (but same type) block assembly installed, the problems will resurface eventually. Have it checked out to make sure you have the new, compatible, Alusil-lined block.
I don't know of other trouble spots of the '95 models, but even routine maintenance may add up quickly. I'd get a quality, thorough extended warranty if you can. Good luck.
Any input will be greatly appreciated.
1. Motor in rear lft wndw went out.
2. Auto mirrors wouldn't adjust, pad not working
3. Loud idling noise when car is running & when
it's shut off @ least for 1 minute after eng-
ine is shut off
4. AM radio gets very poor reception.
Dealer repaired problems 1/2. Said prob. 4 was because back window was tinted (even though they sold to me tinted) so that what's giving poor reception. Dlr. said prob. 3 was normal but I just don't think it is. My old 3 series of 8 yrs didn't make such a noise.
I was wondering if anyone else has experienced these or other problems that perhaps I could have checked before the warranty runs out. If you know something I should have checked please list it. I don't want other things breaking just as soon as warranty expires.
Thanks
Riez, I agree that no slushbox is going to be as direct and immediate as a manual, but the BMW is worse in this regard than anything else I've ever driven, including POS 4-cyl. rentals. It's baffling how a premium marque that does so much right would get this wrong. I prefer manuals too, but an automatic was the price of purchase approval by the Boss.
Now, if someone says anything about the comfort of the standard driver's seat, you'll touch on my third gripe with the 5er. After that, it's just about miraculous.
http://www.carcareonline.com/wurth_acspray_11310.html
I reported the same problem. Since then, I've determined that it happens only in Sport mode, which is how I've generally driven the car. When I recently tested it in Normal/Econ mode, voila, the problem was virtually gone - smooth launches, almost no lag when getting back on the throttle after coasting. The dilemma is that I don't like driving in Normal becuase the shift points are too low.
Is anyone else familar with this behavior, and whether it is a defect or just the nature of the design? If the latter, I'm considering going to the Dinan transmission download, which they claim will tighten up shifts and raise shift points in both modes. Does anyone have any experience with this, especially as a standalone not in combination with any other Dinan mods?
Took her car to dealer again this week. Told 'em again about the reception issue and she was also having some trouble with the eject mechanism in her in-dash CD player. So they replaced the entire radio. They also recognized the AM reception problem but couldn't find out what was causing it. The service tech said they were having the same problem with another person's BMW and were trying various things out. I haven't had a chance to listen to her new radio to see if that helped or not. I'm guessing it didn't, as the problem seems antenna related along with some electrical interference from engine.
I have the same issue on a new 325i I picked up at the end of July - It's in the dealership for the 4th time now & I've escalated all the way up the chain & BMW NA is deciding if they will buy it back - it's pretty close to an official lemon in my state (CA) anyway...
The vibration can become quite annoying, especially in light of the cost of these sedans. When it really acts up, I begin seriously thinking of getting rid of the car.
I and several other owners have noted premature wear on the lower rear of the weatherstripping around the driver's door, caused when our backsides rub against it while entering the vehicle. While at the dealer for my first oil change last week, I pointed this out. They replaced it under warranty without any hassle. Suffice to say I'm now more careful when getting into the car.
Congratulations on the new car. The manual vent controls, to answer your question, are there to provide manual override if you choose. If you want to leave it in true "automatic," just keep it in the middle (white dot).
The reason BMW engineers offer this override control is for two reasons: comfort and safety. Most of summer, for example, I keep it on the coldest possible setting for the first 15-20 minutes of driving around, but then find myself adjusting it down a bit to keep my hands and arms from freezing off. As far as safety goes, cooler air helps keep you alert, so when you have the heat blasting through the footwell and windshield areas on those cold winter nights, you can dial up a cooler draft towards your upper body.
1. Should I have the dealership turn on my daytime running lights. Currently they are off and they told me to just turn on my fog lights in the daytime if I wish. This also turns on my xenon lights...I'm not sure I want them on all the time.
2. I have noticed that I have condensation developed in my headlights after my first rain...what should I do about that?
Thanks so much.
Hope this helps....JL
As for the water in the headlights, if it's only minor condensation, it is OK and will, as srfast said, burn off. But if you see water visibly collecting on the bottom and slowly rising, then you have a more serious leak, and you should have the dealer apply some caulking (or whatever they do) to plug it up.