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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dsn1dsn1 Member Posts: 5
    The tires currently on the car is "235/45ZR17". They are low profile tires. Should I only go for a low profile Z rated tire or can I go for H rated one ? What would be the implications ?
    Thx.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,760
    If you are getting summer only performance tires as a replacement, I doubt any of them will even come H-rated, in that size... Anything V-rated or above should be okay...

    regards,
    kyfdx
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  • dsn1dsn1 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. I checked with big 10 tires and they told me that they have one bridgestone H rated tire. I want to make sure that it will not mess up with suspension or anything of the car since it is riding so low... Thx.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Your suspension was designed for the higher speed rated tires. You will lose performance by cheaping out on this important purchase. Don't second guess Munich's engineers; they know far more about vehicle dynamics than some glorified sales clerk at "Big 10".
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,760
    I'm betting that the Bridgestone tire is an all-season tire... Make sure you get summer performance tires..

    I checked Tirerack.com, and they only recommend V-rated and above.... And, in that category, only Kumho offered an H-rated tire in that size...

    Do some research on Tirerack.com first.... before you take their recommendation... and... anything that says M+S on the sidewall is an all-season tire..

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • dsn1dsn1 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks !
  • rdc3rdc3 Member Posts: 1
    Freddy or others:

    Did you ever get an answer to the High Battery Drain message. I've had my 530xi for a week and the message shows up each morning, but disappears after the car is restarted. I took it to the dealer and they said it's a computer error and I should wait for new software? They said the battery was fully charged??

    Regards
  • omnisomnis Member Posts: 2
    My "check coolant" light came on in my car. I checked the level and it is low. I was going to stop by my local dealer to pick up more coolant before I leave for a road trip this afternoon. Then I remembered my local dealer is closed on Sunday! UGH! Question - Can I mix what BMW's coolant with Prestone (or other)? Or should I just add water and pick up more on Monday?

    Thanks!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Prestone is not acceptable in your 530i. Given that the contents of your cooling system is 50% water and 50% coolant, you might want to eyeball how low the coolant is and half fill it with water. That being said, were I in your shoes I'd just drive the car and stop tomorrow for some coolant when you get the chance. Since your just barely at the "Check Coolant" level, your car still has ample capacity to keep itself cool at normal highway speeds.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    If you are really nervous about it, add a bit of distilled water today and an equal amount of BMW coolant tomorrow.
  • jcxjcx Member Posts: 1
    Could you tell me more about the symptoms of a bad driveshaft center bearing? I purchased a 91' BMW 525i and there appears to be a shuddering feel when the car accelerates.

    Jim
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes, that's a symptom and a very typical BMW problem from that era...also bad or frozen u-joints will do this. You'd better hope it's a bad center support bearing, as I'm fairly certain you can't replace the u-joints--you have to get a whole new rebuilt driveshaft. You should also check for a bad transmission mount. Make sure they do a very careful inspection while the driveshaft is out. The u-joints should feel very fluid and flexible...if they bind or feel "grindy" when you "work them" with your hands, they may in deed be the problem if all else looks good.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Check the center bearing as well as the "guibo"-a rubber coupling which connects the transmission to the driveshaft. Odds are it's one or the other, and I'd just go ahead and replace both while I was at it.
  • freddybbfreddybb Member Posts: 95
    rdc3,

    My experience is identical to yours, which I guess is reassuring in a way! I get the High Battery Drain message every morning when I start the car, and it does not come back if you re-start it during the day. Then, like an old friend, it is back the next morning! This leads me to believe that they haven't really fixed the problem, but the dealership gave me the same story as yours -- they are waiting for updated software to be able to clear out the message and that the battery is not really draining out.

    Otherwise, this car is fantastic! Cheers.
  • 1wisdom1wisdom Member Posts: 13
    :) HI,

    Just had radiator & clutch fan replaced. However temp gauge remains in the center. You mentioned I need to keep my eyes on the gauge. Should I be concerned. Phamton beeping is the timer every hour going off. I'll read how to turn off. Need advise. I like to drive on performace, I think I drive pretty well at that. :) However I'm not used to RWD. The turning is different and as you know the car is heavy. Any suggestions when turning other then power through it. I can feel the back end coming around. Am I over steering. My son says it's easier to go sideways with RWD then FWD.
    Have a great week. Thanks again for your help.
    Oh next week we are going with our church to New Orleans to help.
    Wisdom
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Beginning with the 1989 E34, BMW converted the water temperature gauge into a glorified idiot light. The needle on the gauge will stay in the middle of the range unless the engine is either dead cold or on the verge of overheating. Consequently, you will get no indication of a problem until it is almost too late to do anything about it. As for learning the proper driving technique, you really should attend a couple of drivers schools such as the ones conducted by BMW CCA. I sometimes instruct at those schools and I can honestly say that they are an excellent opportunity to learn advanced driving skills in a safe and structured environment. As for some quick tips, I'd suggest that you do all your braking in a straight line, then smoothly turn in-at a later point than you think you should. You should also keep the throttle constant, neither slowing down nor speeding up. Once you clip the inside of the turn you can begin to smoothly accelerate while at the same time unwinding the steering. I cannot over emphasize the importance of SMOOTH control inputs. I also recommend that you practice what is called "ocular driving", which simply means to look down the road as far as you can and look where you want to go. Still, nothing beats seat time and lots of practice. Good luck on honing your skills and safe travels on your mission trip.
  • georgiapeach1georgiapeach1 Member Posts: 1
    Holy smokes. I have a 2004 530i, and two days ago while I was grooving at 80mph with my head in the clouds, suddenly it sounded like an airport terminal in my car! I bolted upright! The stereo automatically turned up louder trying to drown out the sudden loud road noise. It scared me to pieces. I turned off the radio, and the noise was coming from the outside, and I heard a low, slow, whirring sound from outside the car. Was just going to call the dealer this weekend, but was afraid to, as in the past I've been told I'm imagining things (with another car maker, yet my car still wouldn't turn off and it caught fire). This post helped me very much. Must be the tires then, with 12,500 miles on the tires. Will replace with Michelin. Thank you for sharing.
  • legarretalegarreta Member Posts: 2
    I SAW A 1998 528I FOR SELL WITH 140.000 MILES ON IT FOR TEN THOUSAND DOLLARS I CURRENTLY DRIVE A TRUCK AND HAVE NOT HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH IT AT ALL, HOWEVER I DONT KNOW MUCH ABOUT BMWS BUT I LIKE THEM I WAS JUST WONDERING IF SOMEBODY CAN GIVE ME SOME ADVISE ON THIS, I JUST DONT WANT TO GET RID OF MY TRUCK AND BUY SOMETHING THAT ITS JUST GOING TO START ACTING ON ME, I DROVE THE CAR AND EVERYTHING SEEMS REALLY OWESOME !!! I WOULD REALLY APRECIATE ANY OPINIONS ON THIS THANKS :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    First please TURN OFF THE CAPS LOCK. Your posts appear like SHOUTING to other members and most folks will not respond to post done in ALL CAPS.

    Okay, to your question---the miles are too high for the price. $7,500 would be plenty. I personally wouldn't give more than $6,500 for it.
  • 530ir1150r530ir1150r Member Posts: 263
    Michelins are not always quiet(er). Pilot Sport Primacys are noisy, but last a long time. Pilot Sport PS2s are quieter, but I only have 10,000 miles on them. They appear to be wearing well.

    Goodyear F1s were much quieter, but only lasted 17,000 miles.
  • tpondtpond Member Posts: 3
    I am planning to buy an 06 BMW 530xi. I've been reading the posts here and am having second thoughts. For some reason, I don't believe a $60K car should have problems like this. Thoughts?

    Also- I was under the impression that the 4yr/50K Full Maintenance that comes with the car included oil changes, fluids, etc., but another post complained of paying $149 for an oil change on a 2004 5 Series. Aren't these included in the Full Maintenance plan? Also, what is the interval for changing oil in a BMW?

    Thanks!
  • jbuchananjbuchanan Member Posts: 27
    I have had some u-joints siezed up and cause this same problem,most shops want to sell you a new driveshaft but if the rear joint is just real tight you can soak the joint in automatic trans fluid over knight and frees up the joint so well it acts like a new joint was installed.A nice trick taught to me by and old tech,save 3 of my customers $600.00 for a new driveshaft.

    jbuchanan
  • 530ir1150r530ir1150r Member Posts: 263
    BMW covers all "scheduled" maintenance. There is very little scheduled maintenance, oil changes every 15,000 miles +/- or yearly, brake fluid every other year and windshield wipers yearly.

    Coolant is replaced every 4 years. I know BMW will not cover anything 1 day early, it may or may not be included.
  • tpondtpond Member Posts: 3
    BMW Reliability:
    After reading about issues in this forum, I'm reconsidering my purchase (530xi).

    Sport package run flat tires need replaced after 12K, or you must deal with loud road noise
    Battery Drain issues w/ iDrive
    Eating 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles
    Satellite Radio problems
    Electronic issues... anything else?

    I'm looking for reassurance here from owners that have owned an 06 5 Series and have NOT had major issues or headaches that keeps them going to the dealership every week. For $50K+ I don't want to become best friends with the dealer and his repair shop. Thx.
  • 530ir1150r530ir1150r Member Posts: 263
    My 530i is a 2002 Sport Package, 5 speed, with just over 60,000 miles. I cannot address i-drive electrical problems, but I have had zero maintenance issues. Oil changes every 7500 miles, brake fluid changed every 2 years, power steering fluid changed every 3 years and will have the coolant replaced every 4 years. I am on my third set of tires.

    If maintenance is an issue, reconsider both 4 wheel drive and the sport package. Four wheel drive for most people is additional cost, weight and complexity for little if any benefit. The sport package on an x model is wheels, run flat tires and cosmetics. Add after purchase with the tire of your choice. Suspension upgrades are a part of the 2 wheel drive sports package. The optional suspension package increases tire wear on the insides and some tires have an outside, Michelin Pilot Sport PS 2s, and others, Goodyear Eagle F1s, rotate in 1 direction and need to be remounted if switched from side to side. Tires get noisy when wearing down except for Michelin Pilot Sport Primacys. They just get noisy.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well that could work but really you were very lucky. If the needle bearings are rusted the u-joint is doomed, even though you might get another 1,000 miles out of it. But hey, anything's worth a try.

    I don't think it's that the shops WANT to see you a new driveshaft---you can't even buy a u-joint for it although you can match one up, but installling it is a real pain. BMW makes it as hard as possible to install a single u-joint.
  • rheisenrheisen Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a 545 last April. I'm very happy for the most part however am wondering if some "symptoms" I'm seein in the car are problematic or have been addressed by other owners. The issues are as follows:

    The engine appears to idle too high at various times. Whether the engine is cold or warm, air co. on or off, the idle arbitrarily goes up. When this happens, it causes some minor issues in drive quality- especially when driving in stop n go traffic.

    The brakes are so touchy so as to cause the car to jerk to a halt. If you try and ease on the brakes slowly, the car doesn't stop completely. Consequently, you have apply extra pressure on the brakes which stops the car cold. It's almost like there is no happy medium. It's great for needing to stop quickly, but when you are in stop and go traffic it's irritating.

    Thoughts?
  • freddybbfreddybb Member Posts: 95
    tpond,

    I purchased a new 2006 530xi Manual Transmission with Navigation, Logic7, HUD, etc. in July this year. I have had one problem that was fixed during the first week -- my iDrive screen was too dim and needed to be replaced. And I am still getting the "High Battery Drain" error message that most others are getting but there is no functional problem with the car. They say that it is a software problem that is failing to reset the error message correctly and are waiting for a software update.

    Apart from the above two things, the car has been problem free over the past 2000 miles or so. Needless to say, I was initially disappointed by the above but it was taken care of quickly and I am loving and enjoying the car now. I love the manual transmission, and the car just seems to get better and better to drive as it ages (like a fine wine?!).

    My advice as a first-time BMW owner who was not prejudiced (I had owned Japanese cars before) and who does value reliability and quality: go for it!! Hopefully you will not have the teething problems I did, and the overall experience more than makes up for it. Everything is working perfectly right now (even bluetooth, uploading my address book) and I am hoping it stays that way.
  • jbuchananjbuchanan Member Posts: 27
    Mr.Shiftright,there is a shop in Northern VA. called Driveline of N.VA.they will install a reserviceable U-joint and balance the drive shaft,they also do modifications ,have installed several,havent had a problem with one so far

    jbuchanan
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yep, a qualified driveline shop can do it because they can do the re-balance on site. But a regular repair shop isn't set up to do the jig-work, drilling and balancing---that's what I meant to say. they aren't "tooled up" for it.

    I've actually done one myself, successfully, but never again--it really wasn't worth the hassle.
  • jbuchananjbuchanan Member Posts: 27
    Mr.Shiftright,the drive-shafts I installed looked like somebody made it in the backyard,but all those customers wanted to go the cheapest route.I would not install one on my vehicle, A friend ordered a shaft on line 3 weeks ago and it look like it came from the factory,price I think was about $250.00 plus core,as to the automatic trans fluid deal just found out about it have no clue as to how long it will go before it starts to vibrate again.

    jbuchanan
  • totalsystmtotalsystm Member Posts: 10
    I also have a 2004 - 545 6 speed. All I can say is that it is just OK. Power is nice but when pushing it, feels like the front wheels are coming off the ground. Lots of small annoying things that I am told are "BMW", so I should like them.
    Have you ever tried to actually put a cup in the cup holder?
    Premium sound system is OK, but if you paid for it you are not allowed to get an IPOD connection or satellite radio because of the navigation system. RDS also can not be hooked up for the same reason. Hard to believe that Yugo and Ford can figure out how to make all this work, but BMW can not.
    I-drive (who designed this thing?) reboots itself on the full moon and first quarter, every other month (actually more frequently than that, but I was trying to be funny.) BMW response, "It needs to reboot itself!" Gee, why didn't I think of that as the technical reason I lose all my addresses and radio stations?
    Warm re-starting can be a challenge. Three times I was told the car was not programmed for the 6 speed transmission and that was the cause. I guess three times, they didn't fix it!
    Cannot keep rims on the car! That's what the dealer tells me. Again, Sport wheels with run-flats. Dealer has tried to resell me new rims at least 3 times saying they are bent. So much for "No maintenance fees for the first 3 years" Not!
    Seriously, the four best features about my 545 6-speed: headlights are truly outstanding; heated steering wheel is the best; Heads-up display is great; Only 2 years left on my lease.
    By then Audi will have brought back the RS-6 and I'll go back to them.
    Good luck!
  • aureachaseaureachase Member Posts: 5
    I was scheduled to drive a new 2005 545i tomorrow morning that I put a refundable deposit on. I am reconsidering after your recent comments. My husband has a Mercedes S500 and I was going to get a Mercedes S350, but the 545 that I liked has a sport package with nice rims. The S350 is basic with a few options. We have not had any problems with our S, but I did have previous problems with 2 ML's and an E class. So, I thought maybe BMW had better reliability. I have only read about 5 or 6 pages of this post. Besides the cupholders, are these common issues not unique to your particular car with this series? Any input will be greatly appreciated.
  • bmwnabmwna Member Posts: 32
    I'm with BMW of North America, LLC. I've passed this message on to a BMW NA Customer Relations Representative who will be in touch with you soon.

    BMW NA Customer Relations
  • lazzarichlazzarich Member Posts: 37
    I have a 2000 540i automatic with 70k miles. It goes extremely well but has recently developed a ticking sound which is prominent at idle. The first time this occurred I had the belts replaced and this seemed to cure the problem.

    We did this the second time but it did not help. I read in the latest edition of Bimmer that this could be related to the hydraulic valves. They indicated it was irritating but not in need of repair. Should I have it checked out or just continue as if it is normal?

    This same edition also noted that this particular engine and transmission were prone to problems - anyone taken one over 150k yet?
  • edinphilaedinphila Member Posts: 11
    Has anyone had the Pioneer AirWare XM2go car kit installed in a non-DSP, non-CD changer, pre-2003 E39? I want XM, don't want to pull the radio out of the dash and the Pioneer bundle that mounts in the trunk looks like it's cumbersome to use through the existing radio.
  • cassidymcassidym Member Posts: 108
    I have a 2005 545 6 Speed and the only problem I've had, apart from smacking into a pot hole and bending a rim (my own fault), is that the seat design causes loose change to fall out of my pocket when I accelerate. Figures BMW would be good at getting money out of your pocket.

    Yes the cupholders are not very good. You want great cup holders, buy an Accura.

    I have Sirius radio and it works fine. Ditto NAV

    Yes iDrive is counterintuitive but, after a couple of weeks, you don't even think about it; it becomes automatic.

    Love the Park Distance Control. I got this on impulse and now could not live without it. Ditto the heads up display.

    Got the heated seats and steering wheel. Works very well.

    I ran snow tires this past winter and was very impressed with how well the car handled. My previous car was an '86 325eS and that thing was a pig in the snow but BMW engineers have done a great job balancing the 5 Series. Traction Assist and DSC are big helps too.

    I got the sports package and, after banging a few curbs early on, have really come to like the active steering. Very useful in garages and for parallel parking.

    The engineering and handling are magnificent. Plenty of power when you need it yet well behaved at normal speeds. And I'm getting 18 to 19 MPG city and close to 30 MPG on trips.

    I've never owned a smoother, more responsive car. If I had it to do all over again, I wouldn't change a thing.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,389
    The owner's manual and striker plate of my 2000MY 528iA call for tire p[pressures of 29F and 41R. I've never heard of such an extreme differential between front and rear pressures.

    The Independent BMW reseller I bought the car from delivered it with 30F/30R. I find the
    handling and tire wear to be excellent using these settings. Anybody have any input, experience or advice?

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • emil_emanuelemil_emanuel Member Posts: 2
    I'm looking to purchase this car and it has 106K miles on it. It's been well maintained and recently had everything replaced before the warranty lapsed at 100K miles. Can these cars last if taken care of well past 100K miles?

    Thanks!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I believe that if you decode the inflation guide you will see that it recommends something like 29/33 -- Fr/Rr for normal operations and 33/41 -- Fr/Rr for heavy operations (five adults and/or luggage).

    Personally, I ran more like 33/35 in my 530i SP.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • tfc1tfc1 Member Posts: 3
    Hi Shipo,
    I remember you had a E39. What tire pressure did you use? I have a 2002 530i and the factory recommended 33/41 psi seems (and feels) high.
    tfc
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I run 29/34 on my 528iA and it seems to work well; just tweak the pressures until it feels right to you.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,389
    Thanks guys, I'll try 30/32 and see how that works. I don't want to put too much pressure in as I frive some pretty rough roads, The one I live on, while not long, isn't paved. :sick:

    Does anyone follow the factory recommenation?

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • consigrconsigr Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 2003 540i auto. I've noticed that when I go from coasting or braking to acceleration (not pedal to the metal!) it feels as if the transmission drops into 1st from neutral causing a severe knock sound and lurching of the car. I mentioned it to the service shop at 25k. They claimed they couldn't find an issue, but reprogrammed the computer. It seems to be happening more often. Anyone else have this issue? thanks
  • bumbiebumbie Member Posts: 18
    I am having the same issues (I can not call them problems until I get my bill). I just purchased a 2006 525i from a co-worker with 1,000mi on it and just brought it into the dealership this morning. It seems that the rpm are always high and the brakes are SO touchy. This could be related to the brakes, so I will mention it to you (I will not know for sure until the dealership does a diagnostic report to filter activity), but twice while stopped a light pressing down on the brakes, the car jumped. The first time very slightly, but yesterday I almost rear-ended a M3 in front of me. The car literally jumped, while my foot was firmly pressed on the brake. I noticed the brakes being almost too sensitive to the touch and thought that this might have been the reason, a back fire or something because I was pressing too firm. Anyways, I thought I would chime in, I will update when I hear from BMW. You are not the only one!
  • leighwleighw Member Posts: 2
    I have had my new '05 525i for exactly one month and already I am taking it back to be serviced a second time. The rear wind deflector on the sunroof is apparently coming out of the tracks and causing a horrific noise when I use the sunroof. Has anyone else had a problem like this? Also, after rolling up a window yesterday, a warning light has come on stating the anti-trap device has been deactivated. Do not know how or why it has come on, but the dealer told me they have to reset it in the shop. Is this a sign of things to come in the future? After spending close to $50K, I am not a happy person right now! Any information you all might have would be greatly appreciated.
  • bumbiebumbie Member Posts: 18
    I did not mention it yesterday, but I was having sunroof issues also, not the same but...it would close and reopen over and over about 5 times before it finally sealed shut. I mentioned it to the service guy yesterday and he told me that the sunroofs are VERY sensitive and I just had to learn how to properly use the button (silly me). BMW still has no clue why my car just lunged forward the other day(s), apparently they are consulting BMW of North America, but I am staying positive. I love my damn near $50k car, it is beautiful and a pure joy to drive. Hopefully things will stay that way. :)
  • leighwleighw Member Posts: 2
    My passenger side window will go up and down on its own, as well. Maybe I am not using the buttom properly??? What about a rattle on the left of the driver side, somewhere in the dash? Can't figure that one out either! But it looks as though my 30 day old car will be going to the body shop now...someone did a hit-and-run on my car this afternoon! I suppose I can share my body repair stories as well as my mechanical issues! I hope they find a solution to the "jumping" issue!
  • totalsystmtotalsystm Member Posts: 10
    Not sure if your message was directed to me. If not would you please BMW NA respond to me as well? I've tried working through the dealer and responded to questionnaires from BMW, but no reply. Don't mean to sound bitter, just very disappointed and frustrated. Thanks.
  • jlbljlbl Member Posts: 1,333
    Maybe your questions have been answered at the dealer… but just in case.

    "My passenger side window will go up and down on its own"
    With the start key on, you should open the window and then keep the opening key pressed for at least 5 seconds after the window is fully opened. Then, do the opposite. Then, open and close the window, once each, as usual. All this should reset the memory of the window engine. You also may ask the dealer to replace the window engine while under warranty.

    "What about a rattle on the left of the driver side, somewhere in the dash?"
    With regards to that, I am not fully sure. I figure it is the noise made by the mechanism that assists the steering. If so, you may hear that noise but bigger when you are out of the stopped car and close to the hood while turnign the steering wheel.

    I hope this helps.

    Regards,
    José
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