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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • rpuckettrpuckett Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your response. I did not state this in the first message but the castings numbers on all three heads were the same eventhough the springs, lifters, towers, caps were different. Who is Barker? Did you mean Baker?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh that's interesting....well I wonder if someone modified your car along the way? Yeah, I meant the vendor you purchased the head from.

    I guess the best thing you can do is try a 3rd or 4th vendor and see what they offer you for your car. If two or three other vendors offer lifters with Diameter A, and only Baker offers lifters with Diameter B, then you have some sort of argument.
  • arskatanarskatan Member Posts: 3
    I have been searching for a 2006 525i for the past 2 months and am unable to find one to my exact specifications. I did however find a very similar 525i without navigation. My question is, if I lease this 525i and would like to add a factory BMW navigation (that will run through idrive) is it possible to do so aftermarket?

    I am aware that the screen on the non-navigation models is smaller and that might present a problem. I believe I saw some BMW navigation modules on e-bay but wasn’t sure how that would work with a non-navigation model. I would really appreciate feedback. This navigation issue would make or break the deal. Thank you.
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    Adding the BMW navigation to a 5er is not impossible to do, but extremely cost-prohibitive. You're probably looking at around $6k-$7k in parts and probably another $1000-$1500 in labor. Not worth it, IMO.

    There is a ton of stuff to replace. In addition to the screen (4:3 to 16:9), it's completely different iDrive software and wiring harness between the knob/buttons and the computer and screen. You also need to replace the center stack, because the non-nav only has a slot for CD and the nav has a CD slot and DVD nav disk slot. (See pictures below:)

    Non-Nav:
    image

    Nav:
    image
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    Go to www.realoem.com to get an idea of what individual parts would cost...

    Here's the direct link to the 2006 525i E60 "Audio, Navigation, Electronic Systems."
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You'd also have to hook up the BMW Link somehow, as that is part of the package. This is not a good idea.

    I just finished playing with the NAV/iDrive on a 2006 and it's better than it used to be. Only 4 screens now instead of 8. I liked the NAV voice commands too, for pre-filed addresses only of course.

    You don't need iDrive or NAV to have bluetooth, though.
  • aam1aam1 Member Posts: 26
    Dear Forum Members:

    I have a 2002 E39. I recently noticed that the coutesy lights/lamps in both the passenger and driver footwells is not working. Just wanted to foind out how I can locate and replace the burnt out bulbs. Any and all help is appreciated. The lights/lamps at the bottom of the doors are still working.
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    If all the lights just suddenly went out, I'd check the fuses before I replaced any bulbs...
  • dave59dave59 Member Posts: 23
    I am returning my leased 525 at the end of March. I have a small star in the windshield that I have had repaired. Does anyone know how much BMW will charge me if I return the car with the crack? How much will glass shop cost? Several years ago I turned in a windshield to insurance. They raised my rates. It wasn't worth the cost of the raised rates.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Have you considered a repair? I've had a star repaired on each of my last three lease cars (two of which were BMWs), and haven't been penalized. IIRC, the price ranges from $25 to about $60 depending upon whether they come to you or you go to them.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • dave59dave59 Member Posts: 23
    I had it repaired when it happened about 2 years ago. It is still somewhat visible. The repairman that worked on it said he would replace the fill if it discolored before I return the lease. Maybe I'll do this and see if it passes.
  • satxdancersatxdancer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 528i that has some serious electrical problems. The symptoms are: ---> Rough idle during warm temperatures, and/OR it also idles rough in cool temperatures when going above 55 mph. I turn it off and then back on, and then it idles like normal; smooth. On top of this. When I turn off my car, take the key out of the ignition, and lock it up, - the gage cluster lights stay on all night, along with the red, night interior lights next to the rear view mirror, and my hazard light switch. My gages used to fail and not work at all, until I started to disconnect my batter and then reconnect it. My Hazard switch is always on (not flashing at all, but just a solid on light; even when the car is parked and locked). This kills my battery if I dont disconnect it when away for long periods of time. My head lights turn on as soon as I turn on the ignition, and the high beams never turn on at all. I have no control over the headlight's on/off switch. My turn signals dont work AT ALL either. A few days ago, temperatures fell under freezing point and when I started my car my high beams worked and so did my turn signals - until the car warmed up. Then it was back to chaos. I finally realized that the fuses, bulbs, and switches are in good order on my car. The battery is also brand new and within specs of the car. IS THERE ANY ADVISE ANYONE CAN GIVE ME BEFORE I TAKE IT TO THE BMW SERVICE CENTER AND GET ROBBED????? I'm starting to think that it's the computer to the car. But how many computers are there to my car? Or could they bad relays? PLEASE HELP WITH ANY ADVISE !!!!! thanks!!! - Mike
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Check your battery and alternator output.
  • gajohnstonsgajohnstons Member Posts: 4
    Hi Everyone. I purchased a 1993 BMW 525i in July of 2004. At that time I had a mechanic do about 2103.25 worth of repairs, etc. on the car including replacing a "Support Arm" and "Support Bushings". Last week the car began to rev on its own and I took the car back to the same mechanic who said it was an air intake leak. When I called to get a status on the repair, I was told that in addition to the air intake repair, I also needed to have a long list of other repairs done (to the tune of 2K) including replacing the "Thrust Arm" and "Support Arm". Are these the same thing? If so, would it go bad again only after 2 years??? Thank you in advance for any light you can shed on this. :confuse:
  • gajohnstonsgajohnstons Member Posts: 4
    I have the same problem with mine. Did you ever get an answer??
  • djselzerdjselzer Member Posts: 10
    I have heard from a colleague that the 2004 5 Series suffered several gliches. Specifically, the electrical system had recurrent problems. His 2004 530i was replaced with a 2005 530i under the "Lemon Law". I have spied a 2004 545i CPO at our local dealer. The car has reasonable mileage with a manual transmission. What can owners/lessors of the 2004 5 Series tell me about these cars that may convince me to entertain other options or take a chance?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    They could be either front or rear bushings.
  • kelspa77kelspa77 Member Posts: 1
    My check engine light came on when my bmw was leaking coolant. I put a new raidiator in it and the check engine light stayed on. The fuses keep blowing in the car and we just replaced the rear tail light assembly. The stereo has been popping and going off and has finally quit working and the new lights that we just put in the car are not working. The battery was also dead so I just replaced the battery. The car will not start and has to be jumped. The battery is only 2 months old. And now there is a bad rotten egg smell coming from the car. It is so bad that you can smell it several feet from the car. Anything that is in the car also smells like it when you remove it from the car. It gets stronger as you drive the car. It is so strong that it will make your nausea. The dash board lights also went out when this all happend but they are now working again. The abs light is also on. And the air is not working very well. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,369
    It would takean electrical genius to sort thru the multitiude of electrical problems your car has but I'd bet that the smell and some of the poor running is caused by a bad (plugged up) Catalytic converter. If your mechanic has not figured this out, get a new mechanic (and a new Cat).

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    And possibly years of neglect coming home to roost...
  • killianykilliany Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 530i manual transmission and I love it. I only had to take it to the dealer once for a recall (related to smog control, I think). I bought it new in May 2004, and now it has about 18000 miles. The only electrical thing that bothered me a couple of times was this static noise in the CD/radio while I was driving. I noticed if I turned the car off and started it back up again, the static would be gone immediately. It happened three times in two years. It was annoying but not YET a real problem. I consider that one of German cars' idiosyncrasies. Other than that, I can't think of anything else. :D
  • joyrider147joyrider147 Member Posts: 69
    I'm looking to buy a nice BMW 5 series, but there's one problem- it's an automatic. For a while, I've told myself I'd never go to another automatic again and use only stick shift as they are more reliable, faster get up and go, allows more engine power, better gas mileage, and have less maintenance problems. I know that BMW automatics feature Sport Automatic and clutchless Manual shifting, but to me, those features are still slow and I'd probably end up destroying the transmission even faster.

    Can anyone tell me exactly what is involved in dropping an automatic out of a BMW and swapping it for a complete manual transmission? Do I need cables or what? How difficult is a job like this and about how much would it cost? Thank you for your feedback.
  • jb_shinjb_shin Member Posts: 357
    It will be more economical to just find and buy a manual. There are plenty around, if you spend a bit of time. I heard Koala Motorsport did 6-spd conversion on a E39 (96-03 model) 540 wagon and it cost > $10,000.
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    Check out realoem.com for all BMW parts for any BMW. (Awesome site, btw!)

    Transmission <--- As an example, this is the manual trans for a 2006 (E6) 530i. And that's only for the transmission itself -- no mounts or other assorted parts and no labor. Figure 7-8 hours of labor or so, and you're looking at a job that'll cost you $4000-$5000 minimum.

    Like jb_shin said, it's probably more economical (and probably more mechanically-sound) to just buy one with it already in there.
  • joyrider147joyrider147 Member Posts: 69
    the BMW 5 series I'm looking to change into a manual is a 1990 525i. I did some research and I found most of the parts I may need and they total around $1,000.00. Since it is a 1990, how much do you figure it would cost since the car is simpler and the new cars may cost upwards of $10,000; pre-owned models might be $4 or 5,000; would a 1990 cost about $2,000 to install it?
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    RealOEM.com 1990 525i manual transmission

    That is a transmission right from BMW that'll have a warranty and everything.... I'm sure you can find a used one from a junkyard or online or something for much cheaper. That choice is up to you.

    Regardless, I believe a transmission replacement is something like a 8-9 hour job and most BMW Centers charge around $100/hour. Of course, I might be a little off there, but you get the general idea.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I did this job on a 1990 Saab and it cost over $3,000, and that car would be easy compared to yours.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I'd check with Koala Motorsport. Brett Anderson almost certainly knows more about this subject than anyone else.
  • zodiazodia Member Posts: 2
  • zodiazodia Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 bmw 525i looling to sell . only having one problem , I redone the headliner and ever sence it will not start . So, if your are interested or have some idea on what to do to get it started please e-mail me at zodia_3@hotmail.com
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,369
    did this job on a 1990 Saab and it cost over $3,000, and that car would be easy compared to yours.

    Aw cmon, it's gotta be cheaper to repair/replace the tranny on a RWD car than on one that transmits power thru a transaxle to the front wheels.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • drenthedrenthe Member Posts: 5
    I just purchased a 2001 525iT with manual transmission and 57k miles. I like the 24h format but the clock in the radio (w/o Bord Computer) shows the 12h am/pm format. How can I change the setting? The booklet that comes with the radio only describes the version *with* BC, and there it is easy to change the format.
    Strangely enough, the radio itself uses the European 9 kHz jumps for AM-stations, instead of the 10 kHz jumps used in the US, which means that I can not receive many of the AM-stations in the USA. Also this setting should be possible to change. Any idea?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    oh yeah? Try it. :P A rebuilt driveshaft alone is $600...and you'll need a transmission, (figure $750) trans. mounts, $150, clutch assembly (500?) flywheel (ouch!), clutch and brake pedal assembly (wrecker) (and what do you bolt THAT to if there are no mounting holes under the dash?), slave master and clutch slave,(couple hundred easy) new used console,($150?) probably some floor modifications.

    I'd venture that the Saab was easier, since it's a 100% bolt in job, no modifications whatsoever except changing the gearing in the tranmission, which is really easy since it's driven by chain and sprockets.
  • larrynguyenlarrynguyen Member Posts: 6
    I purchasd a brand new 2006 525i in Sept 2005. Since then I have had to tip off the engine oil about 5 times. The last couple times, it was about 1,700 miles in between. For my driving needs, 1,700 miles is about 4 to 5 weeks. Each time I put in 1 quart of synthetic oil. I think the car consumes too much oil compared to other cars (Lexus, Toyota, Honda) that I owned before. Does any one have a similar problem? What can we do to correct this situation? What could BMW dealers or factory do to help?
  • vanaldervanalder Member Posts: 29
    We bought the same wagon via ED in 2001. I also was
    unsuccessful in getting the display into 24-hour mode.
    Hope someone answers you in a positive manner.

    Daan
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I agree, that amount of oil usage is somewhat high. I'd certainly bring that to your dealer's attention. At 130K my 1997 528i used less than one quart every 8000 miles. I'd want some answers if the oil consumption hasn't settled down by 10000 miles or so.
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    I purchasd a brand new 2006 525i in Sept 2005. Since then I have had to tip off the engine oil about 5 times. The last couple times, it was about 1,700 miles in between. For my driving needs, 1,700 miles is about 4 to 5 weeks. Each time I put in 1 quart of synthetic oil.

    BMWs will tend to use quite a bit of oil over the first 10k miles or so (as div2 pointed out). If things haven't settled down by then, then I would raise the issue with your service department for them to check out.
  • japjap Member Posts: 3
    Have an 89 535I, manual transmission, 285000 miles. Engine is OK and uses about 1 qt. oil per 1500 miles. Engine starts immediately when cold. During driving for the first few miles, the engine will stall if the accelator is quickly depressed. The car will not restart until it has sat for about 30 min. Any thoughts as to the problem? Thanks in advance for those who respond.
  • japjap Member Posts: 3
    Have an 89 535i, manual transmission--muffler needs to be replaced. The lowest price for a muffler was about $700. Does anyone know of a source for an inexpensive muffler? Also, would it be possible/practical to simply run an exhaust pipe directly from the front resonator and thereby eliminate the rear muffler?

    Thanks to all who respond.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Try the folks at Bavarian Auto http://www.bavauto.com, they have a "Cat Back" replacement exhaust system which includes the resonator, the muffler and the tail pipe for $454.95.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    that sounds like a good way to go...if you bypass one of the mufflers you might end up with an obnoxious exhaust note rather than a pleasantly deep and throaty one.
  • incognito377incognito377 Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: This will probably sound like a stupid question. Just purchased a 1998 528i and tried to program the radio stations and I could not. I used to own a 95 318i and programming the radio stations was a simple matter. I now feel like a simpleton. Can someone help me. Thanks
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    1) Tune the radio to the desired station.

    2) Press and hold the preset number button until it either beeps or cuts out for a split-second.
  • incognito377incognito377 Member Posts: 2
    I can't count the number of times I've tried to program the stations only to get frustrated and give up. Thanks for your help.
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    Did it work?
  • gazebrogazebro Member Posts: 5
    I own a 1993 BMW also. Do you know where the battery is?
    Found both cables. Back seat won't go up... Where is that darn thing? HELP! Thanks.
  • selooseloo Member Posts: 606
    2003 525i

    On occasion, when the fan is at the max setting the air volume is only half of what it should be. The volumes improves when you turn off the car and then re-start it.
    Other times, I get excellent wind volume from the system. Control module problem?

    Thanks
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    It sounds like a bad final stage unit-part #3 on this diagram. Replacement is a fairly easy DIY procedure.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    FROM another forum:

    'battery is located under the rear seat. grab the corner and lift up. Factory battery is expensive. Interstate is a good battery. You want to be sure that the battery will fit correctly. A lot of batteries say they are a direct replacement, but you need to use spacers and adapters. when you disconnect battery, disconnect negative terminal 1st and be sure not to touch negative and positve together as you'll get a shower of sparks and could cause the battery to explode. make sure you have the radio code. You'll need to enter the radio code for the radio to work as well as set time/date'.
  • gazebrogazebro Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1993 BMW 525i. I cannot find the battery. Please, HELP anyone! I found both cables but the battery itself is drained. NOT in trunk. The back seat does not lift nor come off, so where is the battery at. It's dead and I need to get the car moving. Thanks!
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