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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair



  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    You might want to check this page.
    It looks like a reasonably simple DIY procedure.
  • I got a line on a 1992 525i with a manual transmission and I am looking to convert the 525i into a 530i by swapping out the engines. Can anyone tell me what may have to go into doing such a thing? Will I need to relocate parts or change them out from a junk 530i?

    What types of computers will I need to change in order to allow the car to accept the change? Will the fuel delivery system from the 525i be capable of putting up with the fuel needs of a 3.0 litre V-8?

    To keep up with that type of horsepower, is the transmission from a 525i the same from a 530i with a manual transmission? If not, would I have to upgrade to the trans from an M5?

    Also, is there any way of adding a super or turbocharger, maybe Nitrous from Dinan High Performance? Would I be able to upgrade the suspension system to that of an M5? If so, what would that also involve? Could I use reinforced steering, suspension parts bushings from an e32 750iL and not worry about the parts not being compatible?

    And lastly, how much could all of this cost? Thank you for your input.
  • cmybimmergocmybimmergo Posts: 265
    Most of your questions are out of my league, but I can tell you that the 530i has a 3.0L inline 6, not a V8.
  • clpurnellclpurnell Posts: 1,087
    Dude all that will cost you way more than just buying a 530i
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Don't even think about trying to drop a 3 liter V8 into a 1992 525i. Why? Well among other reasons, there were no V8 engines even made to fit that car (although BMW did manage to fit both a 3.0 liter and a 4.0 liter V8 in the 1994 and 1994 vintage cars). Trust me, if the 2.5 liter mill ain't enough, then it will be far, FAR, FAR cheaper to simply find a 1992 535i or even a 1992 M5 that fits the bill. IIRC, in an effort to make the V8 fit in the E34, BMW completely redesigned the engine compartment and replaced the nimble Rack and Pinion steering system with a more pedestrian Recirculating Ball unit (which I suspect entailed suspension changes too). Then there was the transmission and OBC and fuel system, and..., and...

    Nah, just find the car you really want and get that one.

    Best Regards,
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    By the time he gets finished hacking up that poor E34 he will have spent enough money that he could have bought a real E28 M5...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,504
    Not a good idea IMO. If I were you, I'd invest in performance parts for the car you already have, presuming it has a sound engine. For as little as $3,000--$5,000, I bet you can make the 525i a lot more fun, and that $5K wouldn't even get you to first base on your planned project.

    You gotta re-think this scheme, if you want my two cents.

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  • I have a 2002 BMW 540i, lately when I start my car, it sounds like the engine is over-revving, or it sounds like I'm turning the car on when it's already been started. When the car is started, it doesn't appear to have any issues - any thoughts?
  • cmybimmergocmybimmergo Posts: 265
    I'm no expert but I wonder whether it's your starter? Does it start every time or do you sometimes have to try more than once?
  • wgormanwgorman Posts: 1
    I have this problem also. The clunking sounds are only apparent in the cold weather. The dealer and BMW engineer said that these clunking noises are normal because the control arm bushings are made of polyurethanes and aluminum. These materials expand and contract at different rates. When the car is cold-40 degrees say- there is a space in the bushing. When the aluminum heats up, the space fills in and the clunking goes away. I do not believe this? Did your car clunk in warm weather? :confuse:
  • It's definitely the starter... when I first start the car, it sounds the exact same way it would if the car had already been started and I would try starting it with it already turned on.... like one of those whistle kazoos....
  • Thanks for this message. I have a 2001 525i w/ 75K miles which drives like a dream. Recently I was considering dumping it when I took it to the dealership for service to replace the power steering hoses (which was covered under my CPO warranty). During the service, they also mentioned that my control arm bushings were leaking and it would cost $724 to replace the pair. I was almost in shock, but I took the advise on someone in this forum to find a independent BMW service facility. Needless to say, I found one that has a couple of certified BMW service techs with more than 20 years of experience. They are charging me $350 including tax to replace both bushings.
    They replaced all the belts today and also did a thorough inspection to confirm that the rest of the car was in great shape. I was very impressed with the facility and will be going back. My days of getting over charged by the dealerships are over!! Thanks for the hope that I can keep my 525i for a while at "reasonable" costs.
  • ndegroat1ndegroat1 Posts: 11
    Sorry, mine does it in warm weather. This means on our part, that a trip to our tech is in order! Good to hear it will not cost us anything close to $1,000!
    P.S. I hit 197 K on my way home from a business trip last night... :D whoohoo!
  • bdkinnhbdkinnh Posts: 292
    I'm considering getting a 2007 530i, but I'm really really sensitive to noise, especially rattles. Things like that drive me nuts.

    I haven't seen many complaints here about rattles in the e60, but on it seems like a lot of people are complaining about them.

    Has anyone here had problems with rattles? If so, did you get them fixed, or do they continue to be an issue?
  • turnbowmturnbowm Posts: 76
    "Has anyone here had problems with rattles? If so, did you get them fixed, or do they continue to be an issue?"

    13 months and 12,500 miles on my '05 530i with NO rattles whatsoever. Probably one of the most solid cars I've ever owned (and I've owned more than a few).
  • linhmanlinhman Posts: 5
    I have a 2003 525I with 26,500 miles. My warranty is up in several months. I am looking to purchase extend warranty. Any advice on this issue is greatly appreciated. :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,504
    You'll need to read this extended warranty carefully. Look for:

    1. Exclusions--what ISN'T covered.

    2. Deductibles--they may charge you a flat fee per incident even IF the item is covered.

    3. Cost vs. Risk -- would it make more sense to put away each month the cost of the extended warranty and then draw upon it for repairs as needed?

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  • pen101pen101 Posts: 238
    My 2002 E39 with sport package was outfitted with Michelin PS2. Wear on them is about 50%. Hit something on the road and rear tire blew. Nead to replace the tire. Full size Micheline Pilot Primacy in trunk.

    Here are my choices:

    a. Purchase another Primacy tire to match spare and use those on rear and put the used PS2 in trunk as spare.

    b. Purchase PS2 to replace blown tire and use that one, leave Primacy in trunk as spare.

    c. Purchase two PS2 for rear so that tread wear is same on both sides.

    I like the PS2's, they have superior grip than the Primacy (except on wet pavement - but not an issue for me because of where I live). I think my questions come down to whether it makes a difference if the tread wear is different on the two (rear) tires, or if I use different tread tires for the front (PS2) and rears (Primacy).
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 70,682
    I notice that my right rear wears a lot faster than the left rear...

    If you put the new one on the right rear, you might find that it will wear faster than the one on the left..

    You might not get full use out of it by the time it is ready to do a full set replacement, but one PS2 is the way I would go.. You can always try it... if you have ride/vibration problems, then go ahead and get a matching tire for the other side...



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  • pen101pen101 Posts: 238
    kyfdx, it was the right rear that blew. I have over 16K miles on the tires and the tires show about 50% wear. Even though BMW suggests not to rotate them, I have been rotating them every 5K miles. I keep fronts at 33 psi and rears at 41psi (as per door jam instructions). All four of the tires have even wear. Your suggestion to replace the right rear because it wears quicker is a useful idea though.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I keep fronts at 33 psi and rears at 41psi (as per door jam instructions).

    Well, unless you are driving around fully loaded all of the time, the door jam instructions recommend that you use 29 in the front and 33 in the rear.

    Best Regards,
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 70,682
    If you do that, you probably won't want to rotate them.. Just keep driving until one or more show too much wear...

    The $200 for one tire won't seem like too much to swallow then... It seems like your cheapest way out, as long as it doesn't cause any ride/balance/handling issues... and, if it does, you can always buy one more the left side..


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  • pen101pen101 Posts: 238
    sorry shipo, I think I got ya. I just went down to the garage to check the door jam. It says 33/41, but for operation outside US and Canada 29/33 psi (up to 4 passengers) and 33/41 (maximum load). To get further clarification, I checked the manual. Page 27 says 33/41 for US and Canada and 29/33 (4 passengers) and 33/41 (maximum) outside US and Canada.

    Why the difference between US/Canada and the rest of the world?

    Also another question: 52K miles on the car. The clutch squeeks. Could it be the bushings? Is it time for another clutch so soon? Somewhere on this board it was said that the BMW clutch is bullet proof. Not mine. Original replaced at 14K. Better not have to be replaced again for a long while.
  • jb_shinjb_shin Posts: 357
    The CPO M5 I bought last year started squeaking when I engaged/disengaged clutch at around 35k or so. I took it in thinking perhap it was the throw out bearing and it turned out to be "abnormal" wear on the clutch and I ended up getting a new (remanufactured) one put in, and it was covered by BMW.
  • Does anyone know what the BMW hourly labor rate would be in the Charleston, SC area? I am thinking of having some optional work done down there if I can save some money over NYC prices.

  • designmandesignman Posts: 2,129
    Why the difference between US/Canada and the rest of the world?

    Maybe they figure we’re all tubs of lard. After all, there is an obesity epidemic in America. We need to cut back on the slices, hot dogs and cheese doodles. Maybe they should put a footnote on the tire pressure table for US/CDN*.

    *Have a couple of salads for heaven’s sake, then you can lower tire pressure like the rest of the world.

  • pen101pen101 Posts: 238
    Let me finish my ice cream, then I can discuss this further...

    Auto manufacturers generally set suspensions softer for the US market, so you would think BMW would follow this trend with less tire pressure and thus a softer ride. Also, the top speed limits in some European countries are higher than that in the US. My thought is that you would want higher tire PSI in Europe for the higher speeds.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Sometimes the DOT tire pressure sticker numbers are set high due to CAFE considerations. That would explain why the sticker provides different numbers for the US and Canada.
  • andys120andys120 Loudon NHPosts: 18,887
    All things considered my E39 (2000 528iA) has been a terrific car but the parking brake is junk and can barely keep the car from creeping forward when in gear. I've had the brake shoes replaced recently but that didn't help for very long.

    I've owned dozens of cars and I think this is the worst parking brake I've ever seen. Am I the only one?

    2000 BMW 528i, 2001 BMW 330CiC

  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Andy, it sounds to me like the brake shoes and cables are improperly adjusted. The parking brake should be fully engaged with 4-5 clicks of the handle. This how-to is for the E36 but I'm pretty sure that the E39 is similar.
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