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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    You might want to check this page.
    It looks like a reasonably simple DIY procedure.
  • joyrider147joyrider147 Member Posts: 69
    I got a line on a 1992 525i with a manual transmission and I am looking to convert the 525i into a 530i by swapping out the engines. Can anyone tell me what may have to go into doing such a thing? Will I need to relocate parts or change them out from a junk 530i?

    What types of computers will I need to change in order to allow the car to accept the change? Will the fuel delivery system from the 525i be capable of putting up with the fuel needs of a 3.0 litre V-8?

    To keep up with that type of horsepower, is the transmission from a 525i the same from a 530i with a manual transmission? If not, would I have to upgrade to the trans from an M5?

    Also, is there any way of adding a super or turbocharger, maybe Nitrous from Dinan High Performance? Would I be able to upgrade the suspension system to that of an M5? If so, what would that also involve? Could I use reinforced steering, suspension parts bushings from an e32 750iL and not worry about the parts not being compatible?

    And lastly, how much could all of this cost? Thank you for your input.
  • cmybimmergocmybimmergo Member Posts: 265
    Most of your questions are out of my league, but I can tell you that the 530i has a 3.0L inline 6, not a V8.
  • clpurnellclpurnell Member Posts: 1,083
    Dude all that will cost you way more than just buying a 530i
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Don't even think about trying to drop a 3 liter V8 into a 1992 525i. Why? Well among other reasons, there were no V8 engines even made to fit that car (although BMW did manage to fit both a 3.0 liter and a 4.0 liter V8 in the 1994 and 1994 vintage cars). Trust me, if the 2.5 liter mill ain't enough, then it will be far, FAR, FAR cheaper to simply find a 1992 535i or even a 1992 M5 that fits the bill. IIRC, in an effort to make the V8 fit in the E34, BMW completely redesigned the engine compartment and replaced the nimble Rack and Pinion steering system with a more pedestrian Recirculating Ball unit (which I suspect entailed suspension changes too). Then there was the transmission and OBC and fuel system, and..., and...

    Nah, just find the car you really want and get that one.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    By the time he gets finished hacking up that poor E34 he will have spent enough money that he could have bought a real E28 M5...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not a good idea IMO. If I were you, I'd invest in performance parts for the car you already have, presuming it has a sound engine. For as little as $3,000--$5,000, I bet you can make the 525i a lot more fun, and that $5K wouldn't even get you to first base on your planned project.

    You gotta re-think this scheme, if you want my two cents.
  • chicagotigerchicagotiger Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2002 BMW 540i, lately when I start my car, it sounds like the engine is over-revving, or it sounds like I'm turning the car on when it's already been started. When the car is started, it doesn't appear to have any issues - any thoughts?
  • cmybimmergocmybimmergo Member Posts: 265
    I'm no expert but I wonder whether it's your starter? Does it start every time or do you sometimes have to try more than once?
  • wgormanwgorman Member Posts: 1
    I have this problem also. The clunking sounds are only apparent in the cold weather. The dealer and BMW engineer said that these clunking noises are normal because the control arm bushings are made of polyurethanes and aluminum. These materials expand and contract at different rates. When the car is cold-40 degrees say- there is a space in the bushing. When the aluminum heats up, the space fills in and the clunking goes away. I do not believe this? Did your car clunk in warm weather? :confuse:
  • chicagotigerchicagotiger Member Posts: 15
    It's definitely the starter... when I first start the car, it sounds the exact same way it would if the car had already been started and I would try starting it with it already turned on.... like one of those whistle kazoos....
  • shaymasdaddyshaymasdaddy Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for this message. I have a 2001 525i w/ 75K miles which drives like a dream. Recently I was considering dumping it when I took it to the dealership for service to replace the power steering hoses (which was covered under my CPO warranty). During the service, they also mentioned that my control arm bushings were leaking and it would cost $724 to replace the pair. I was almost in shock, but I took the advise on someone in this forum to find a independent BMW service facility. Needless to say, I found one that has a couple of certified BMW service techs with more than 20 years of experience. They are charging me $350 including tax to replace both bushings.
    They replaced all the belts today and also did a thorough inspection to confirm that the rest of the car was in great shape. I was very impressed with the facility and will be going back. My days of getting over charged by the dealerships are over!! Thanks for the hope that I can keep my 525i for a while at "reasonable" costs.
  • ndegroat1ndegroat1 Member Posts: 11
    Sorry, mine does it in warm weather. This means on our part, that a trip to our tech is in order! Good to hear it will not cost us anything close to $1,000!
    P.S. I hit 197 K on my way home from a business trip last night... :D whoohoo!
  • bdkinnhbdkinnh Member Posts: 292
    I'm considering getting a 2007 530i, but I'm really really sensitive to noise, especially rattles. Things like that drive me nuts.

    I haven't seen many complaints here about rattles in the e60, but on e60.net it seems like a lot of people are complaining about them.

    Has anyone here had problems with rattles? If so, did you get them fixed, or do they continue to be an issue?
  • turnbowmturnbowm Member Posts: 76
    "Has anyone here had problems with rattles? If so, did you get them fixed, or do they continue to be an issue?"

    13 months and 12,500 miles on my '05 530i with NO rattles whatsoever. Probably one of the most solid cars I've ever owned (and I've owned more than a few).
  • linhmanlinhman Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2003 525I with 26,500 miles. My warranty is up in several months. I am looking to purchase extend warranty. Any advice on this issue is greatly appreciated. :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You'll need to read this extended warranty carefully. Look for:

    1. Exclusions--what ISN'T covered.

    2. Deductibles--they may charge you a flat fee per incident even IF the item is covered.

    3. Cost vs. Risk -- would it make more sense to put away each month the cost of the extended warranty and then draw upon it for repairs as needed?
  • pen101pen101 Member Posts: 238
    My 2002 E39 with sport package was outfitted with Michelin PS2. Wear on them is about 50%. Hit something on the road and rear tire blew. Nead to replace the tire. Full size Micheline Pilot Primacy in trunk.

    Here are my choices:

    a. Purchase another Primacy tire to match spare and use those on rear and put the used PS2 in trunk as spare.

    b. Purchase PS2 to replace blown tire and use that one, leave Primacy in trunk as spare.

    c. Purchase two PS2 for rear so that tread wear is same on both sides.

    I like the PS2's, they have superior grip than the Primacy (except on wet pavement - but not an issue for me because of where I live). I think my questions come down to whether it makes a difference if the tread wear is different on the two (rear) tires, or if I use different tread tires for the front (PS2) and rears (Primacy).
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    I notice that my right rear wears a lot faster than the left rear...

    If you put the new one on the right rear, you might find that it will wear faster than the one on the left..

    You might not get full use out of it by the time it is ready to do a full set replacement, but one PS2 is the way I would go.. You can always try it... if you have ride/vibration problems, then go ahead and get a matching tire for the other side...

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • pen101pen101 Member Posts: 238
    kyfdx, it was the right rear that blew. I have over 16K miles on the tires and the tires show about 50% wear. Even though BMW suggests not to rotate them, I have been rotating them every 5K miles. I keep fronts at 33 psi and rears at 41psi (as per door jam instructions). All four of the tires have even wear. Your suggestion to replace the right rear because it wears quicker is a useful idea though.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I keep fronts at 33 psi and rears at 41psi (as per door jam instructions).

    Well, unless you are driving around fully loaded all of the time, the door jam instructions recommend that you use 29 in the front and 33 in the rear.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    If you do that, you probably won't want to rotate them.. Just keep driving until one or more show too much wear...

    The $200 for one tire won't seem like too much to swallow then... It seems like your cheapest way out, as long as it doesn't cause any ride/balance/handling issues... and, if it does, you can always buy one more the left side..

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  • pen101pen101 Member Posts: 238
    sorry shipo, I think I got ya. I just went down to the garage to check the door jam. It says 33/41, but for operation outside US and Canada 29/33 psi (up to 4 passengers) and 33/41 (maximum load). To get further clarification, I checked the manual. Page 27 says 33/41 for US and Canada and 29/33 (4 passengers) and 33/41 (maximum) outside US and Canada.

    Why the difference between US/Canada and the rest of the world?

    Also another question: 52K miles on the car. The clutch squeeks. Could it be the bushings? Is it time for another clutch so soon? Somewhere on this board it was said that the BMW clutch is bullet proof. Not mine. Original replaced at 14K. Better not have to be replaced again for a long while.
  • jb_shinjb_shin Member Posts: 357
    The CPO M5 I bought last year started squeaking when I engaged/disengaged clutch at around 35k or so. I took it in thinking perhap it was the throw out bearing and it turned out to be "abnormal" wear on the clutch and I ended up getting a new (remanufactured) one put in, and it was covered by BMW.
  • afishionadaafishionada Member Posts: 31
    Does anyone know what the BMW hourly labor rate would be in the Charleston, SC area? I am thinking of having some optional work done down there if I can save some money over NYC prices.

    Thanks.
  • designmandesignman Member Posts: 2,129
    Why the difference between US/Canada and the rest of the world?

    Maybe they figure we’re all tubs of lard. After all, there is an obesity epidemic in America. We need to cut back on the slices, hot dogs and cheese doodles. Maybe they should put a footnote on the tire pressure table for US/CDN*.

    *Have a couple of salads for heaven’s sake, then you can lower tire pressure like the rest of the world.

    ;-)
  • pen101pen101 Member Posts: 238
    Let me finish my ice cream, then I can discuss this further...

    Auto manufacturers generally set suspensions softer for the US market, so you would think BMW would follow this trend with less tire pressure and thus a softer ride. Also, the top speed limits in some European countries are higher than that in the US. My thought is that you would want higher tire PSI in Europe for the higher speeds.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Sometimes the DOT tire pressure sticker numbers are set high due to CAFE considerations. That would explain why the sticker provides different numbers for the US and Canada.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,369
    All things considered my E39 (2000 528iA) has been a terrific car but the parking brake is junk and can barely keep the car from creeping forward when in gear. I've had the brake shoes replaced recently but that didn't help for very long.

    I've owned dozens of cars and I think this is the worst parking brake I've ever seen. Am I the only one?

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Andy, it sounds to me like the brake shoes and cables are improperly adjusted. The parking brake should be fully engaged with 4-5 clicks of the handle. This how-to is for the E36 but I'm pretty sure that the E39 is similar.
  • cmr530icmr530i Member Posts: 278
    I'll agree with you. I have to yank the handle of my 2001 E39 to the highest point before the brake will hold, and even then I don't trust it on a steep incline. I will have it checked out the next time it goes in for a service. In fact, when I occasionally drive my son's Accord and use his parking brake, he complains because I have pulled it up so high. I've been conditioned. :surprise:
  • nrowdernrowder Member Posts: 1
    Speaking of rattles, I have a VERY MINOR problem on my 2006 530i. The steering wheel buttons (seems to be mainly the volume control button on the left) seem to be rattling/buzzing at speeds >50mph. Has anyone else noticed this? It stops if I put my thumb on the button, but I obviously don't want to drive around like this constantly. This is a very minor issue, and it isn't even that loud, but I was just wondering if there was a solution...Thanks.
  • batmansbuddybatmansbuddy Member Posts: 2
    I am wondering where to start looking for a solution to this car having a slow pick up and then having it act like it is misfiring. All the plugs are new and all sparking as they should. Any suggestions as to where to start looking next. I was thinking it may be a fuel pump problem or even a gas problem as the car had been sitting for a few NY winter months without being started.
  • batmansbuddybatmansbuddy Member Posts: 2
    In regards to your question, some of your best mechanics for BMW are in NYC. I do not think you are going to save much money by going to SC to have the work done if you consider the price of gas these days, and the cost and wear and tear on your car if you are only taking it there for this purpose. One of the best mechanics is located in the Bronx and his labor rates are exceptional. You may want to check into his garage. It is a small Neighborhood garage.
  • bdkinnhbdkinnh Member Posts: 292
    That's a known problem on the e60 (or at least I've seen more than a few posts on other boards). Take it to the dealer, and I'm sure they'll take care of it without a problem.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I'd inspect ALL the ignition components and I would also inspect all of the vacuum and intake hoses for any cracks or leaks. A shop can measure the fuel system pressure to see if it is within BMW specs.
  • cmybimmergocmybimmergo Member Posts: 265
    When I bought mine, I found it very difficult to set the PB, and in fact I actually pulled a muscle (ribcage) trying. I asked them to adjust it, which they did to my satisfaction. The only residual quirk I notice is that on steep inclines I have to yank it up one more notch. I also keep it in gear on hills, but I've always done that.

    But I've also always pulled the PB to the highest easily-achieved position, except on hills where I yank one more notch...nothing special about BMW here.
  • quemfalaquemfala Member Posts: 107
    Simple! The rest of the world doesn't rush to "sue" as we do here in the States. BMW is just covering it's rear, in case of lawsuits. Remeber the Ford Explorer fiasco. If there was a real study done on that mess, most all of the trouble lay in the hands of the owners and drivers, but it didn't matter. Sue, sue & sue again!
  • cmr530icmr530i Member Posts: 278
    "If there was a real study done on that mess, most all of the trouble lay in the hands of the owners and drivers."

    The recent research seems to disagree with your theory. Click on the link below, scroll down in the Further Coverage section to "Attention Shifts From Firestone to Ford Explorer" article.

    link titlehttp://www.sptimes.com/News/webspecials/firestone/
  • yurygyuryg Member Posts: 15
    I had similar problem... twice. The first occurred when the car was 2 months as 2k mile old. Dealer performed "wheel re-centering" and the issue was solve, but only for a few months. The 2nd time, dealer performed wheel alignment, charged me $230, but the problem was not fixed. I resigned myself to driving a brand new car with an unfixable wheel alignment and hence no driving enjoyment, until luckily (if that's the proper term), a few weeks later a "4WD-DTS" warning light lit up. I took the car to dealer and presto - diagnosable problem, for which the dealer can charge BMW and thus fix. The "wheel angle sensor" was replaced (in the words of a service rep: "a frequent problem. its a new part and BMW is still working out the quirks"), and the mis-alignment was fixed. But only for a month, after which (at 7k miles) the steering lost its "responsiveness" (ie, the great "Ultimate driving machine" feel) and feels loose with no feedback. PS Mine is a 530xi, with a slightly different steering mechanics, but the service's blame of the road contour was the same.
  • khc8869khc8869 Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2003 530i and last night I ran over a pothole and the car seemed to jiggle a little but the DSC light didn't come on or anything but as i was pulling into my drive way, there was a loud metal grinding or screeching noise which seemed like it was coming from around the front tires or the brakes. The noise lasted for good 10-15 seconds. Could hitting a pothole possibly cause something to malfuction temporarily, like the DSC or ABS system? Cause I drove the car a little later and the noise wasn't there. I've never had this problem before even after hitting plenty of potholes. Has anyone had a similar problem like this and should I be concerned? Please help.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    It sounds like you had a small rock caught between a brake rotor and its dust shield. I live at the end of a long gravel driveway and it seemed that my wife's E39 would pick up a rock every couple of months. Sometimes backing the car up a few feet would eject the pebble. Other times the pebble would quickly wear down and fall out. In any case it's nothing to worry about.
  • yurygyuryg Member Posts: 15
    I own an '06 530xi with 7k miles. A few weeks ago steering wheel lost much of it's resistance and the typical BMW feedback almost completely disappeared. That is, normally, the steering is tight, especially at highway speeds - a small turn of the steering wheel directs the car in the desired direction. However, now the wheel feels very loose, it has less resistance than my wife's 4 year old truck. Additionally, I've noticed two related effects: 1. it feels that I need to rotate the steering wheel more than before to turn the same angle on the corners, and 2. car feels less taut, more like a large Lincoln Town car. My dealer mechanic looked at the car, but could not find anything wrong with it. I then test drove my car and another 530xi with him and then he agreed that my steering is different, however after communicating with technicians in Germany they could not find a problem. No computer errors were detected. I now dread driving the car that I loved to drive. Has anyone heard of something like this. Please help.
  • fasrfasr Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1994 540iA with about 111K miles on it. Replaced the engine about 93K miles. I'm having a recent issue with the transmission. For some reason, the "D" icon that is supposed to appear on the dash to indicate the car is in "drive" does not show up all the time. All the other gears are working fine. In fact, if I pull and hold back the shifting stick a little bit further from its locked position, then the "D" on the dash reappears. With or without the "D" on the dash, the car is driving fine, shifting smoothly. Sometimes though it sounds like the engine may be a little louder than normal in lower gears. Anybody have any idea what the problem might be? Any help would be appreciated.
  • jb_shinjb_shin Member Posts: 357
    I had a similar problem in an old 325. I never bothered to find out what the cause was but I also did not experience and ill-effect from this. My guess would be dirty or bad electrical contact on the gear selector based on your description (and my experience)
  • khc8869khc8869 Member Posts: 3
    div2...

    Now that I think back, on that day, after I hit the pothole I noticed that there were a lot of pebbles on the street on my way home. What you're telling me makes a lot of sense. And, I've never had that problems with any of our other cars. Anyway, appreciate your help.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Glad to be able to help. The first time it happened to me I imagined all sorts of horrible problems. It really does sound awful.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,369
    Sound like a linkage problem that's causing the shifter to go only partially into gear. When you jiggle it you're probably putting it the rest of the way into Drive so the D appears.

    It could also be a switch problem w whatever switch lights up the "D".

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • afishionadaafishionada Member Posts: 31
    I have a new '07 530 xi wagon and have similar problems. Today, with 1000 miles on the car, the 4WD-DTS light came on. Then the "start up assistance malfunction" button came on. I am taking it to the dealer tomorrow, so your post is helpful. Do you know if your loss of steerimg responsiveness is related? I am a first time BMW coming from a near perfect Acura and am not at all happy right now.
  • yurygyuryg Member Posts: 15
    I know exactly how you feel. This is my first German car experience after about 15 years of driving completely trouble-free Japanese cars. Needless to say I'm very disappointed with the quality. My 530 has been in shop 4 times in 6 months. To contrast, in 30 years (and 300k miles) of combined driving between my wife and me, our Japanese cars have been in shop 4 times as well.

    However, when BMW does work, its a hell-of-car to drive, and I'm looking forward to the day when its finally fixed again

    I think the problems are related, because after the BMW engineer test drove my car vs. another 530xi a few days ago he proposed to change my wheel alignment sensor. This is the sensor that was replaced on my car a month ago when it failed and produced the same 4WD-DTS warning. These sensors are giving BMW a lot of problems and there is a waiting list for them in many locations. I've been told by the engineer and seen postings in other forums that some sensors are heat sensitive (they fail in high temps). Some production months have seen an unusual # of failures as well. But most of these issues get resolved eventually, and I'm sure you'll enjoy your car once the issue is fixed.
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