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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bookedupbookedup Member Posts: 17
    I don't know where to start. The vehicle is a 530i without nav or DSP. I bought an aftermarket Alpine from Pacific BMW. The old model number was #82 11 0 028 760. The new number is 65 12 6 983 336. I had to buy a separate bracket of which half of it was already in my car, the bottom bracket. One problem is with this bottom bracket. It has two [non-permissible content removed] sticking up. The one is not in the way but the second one will not allow the bottom of the changer to sit flush against the floor. The unit is a trunk mount and stands vertical. I plugged in both the 6 pin cable and the three pin cable just for a test. I got a "CD error" on the display but the in dash unit did play. In addition, the 4 screws that hold the top bracket around the changer were not included in the accessory kit. Fortunately, I found four screws that fit. Did I mention these instructions are worthless???

    Anyone install one of these that can steer me in the right direction?

    Thanx in advance,

    Rob
  • cmybimmergocmybimmergo Member Posts: 265
    Better late than never. What year is your car?
  • kyingkying Member Posts: 61
    Thanks, div2. Will do that (I don't know how but will figure it out).

    kying
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    From a friend on another E39 list:

    >>>I've been considering pulling the left-side-C-pillar interior trim to take a look at the antenna amplifier, but was uncertain about exactly HOW it came off.

    Turns out - it comes off easily.

    1. Remove light (small screwdriver - pry out at top). Disconnect power lead to it (some sort of retainer, you gotta wiggle and squeeze it)

    2. Put left hand into hole so fingers are on either side of the visible clip. Put right hand into hole with fingers behind the front section of the trim. Pull straight out. There are two clips (one visible, one not) that go into plastic sockets in the body.

    3. Wiggle the trim forwards and a bit upwards. It will come out. It is held in by the two pin-clips in the front, and has plastic hooks that slot into matching receptacles in the back around the glass.

    OK.. had the amplifier exposed. Did the initial test - is it
    working? Unplugged the violet/white power wire.. radio signal got a LOT worse.

    Are all the antenna leads to it solid? Yup.. there is an AM/FM lead, and then it turns out a second FM coax that comes from a separate FM amplifier in the right-C-pillar (diversity antenna..)

    OK.. what's the problem? I wiggled the lead that is the end of the antenna wire going to the radio.. all of a sudden, all the static on the AM band went away. I went and checked signal strengths - they were MUCH higher than I'd ever seen (up around 14 or so - I think 15 is max.. - I'll explain how to do this..)

    I then checked FM - it was much better also..

    I grabbed a pair of pliers and tightened the coax-connector for the antenna lead. Now wiggling it no longer caused the signal to change.

    OK - how to check signal strength? Turn radio off. Turn on, and press the M button in and hold it. After about 10 seconds you go into diagnostics mode... one of the diagnostics gives signal strength. To roll through the diagnostics - use the manual up-down tuning buttons on either side of the M button.

    One of the other settings available to you is the auto-volume setting as related to speed (1-6).. mine was at 3, I reset it to 4...
    Once in the signal strength mode - the display has arrows above the two left MID buttons... The left-most button does manual up/down, and 2nd from the left does auto-seek. The frequency and signal strength read out in the MID.<<<
  • kyingkying Member Posts: 61
    Thanks, div2! I will try next time when the "frog" sings again. I really appreciate it!

    kying
  • aureachaseaureachase Member Posts: 5
    I hope someone can offer some advice with a problem in my 2005 545i that I purchased a year ago new. After driving with the air conditioning on, every time I subsequently start my car and drive, the air conditioning smells just horrible. I have had the vehicle in to the dealership on four separate occasions regarding this issue. Their solution is to spray a deodorizer in the system. I informed them that makes the car smell like fragrant mold. Their recommendations are to turn off my air conditioning 2-3 minutes before I pull in my garage and run hot air through the system before I turn the car off. I do not understand what is happening. I have not had to do this in any other vehicle I have owned. In my other vehicles, I was able to leave the air on, park the car, start it in the morning and never smell mold for 2-3 years. Does anyone have the same problem? Can anyone who understands the cooling system of this vehicle give me some advice to tell the dealer to get this problem fixed? Thank you.

    Erin
  • dallencatdallencat Member Posts: 28
    Check out This forum post
  • selooseloo Member Posts: 606
    Please share your experiences:

    - Retail Price vs the final negotiated price

    - Terms: Deductible, what is covered, etc...

    - Using the warranty: Any problems, great experience, etc...

    - What it worth the money?

    Thanks,
  • selooseloo Member Posts: 606
    Correction:

    Was it worth the money?
  • formulaveeformulavee Member Posts: 14
    I was offered $23.5k for a 2001 540i sport and $12k on my Jetta trade. Thats a good trade # and seems fair for the car. I am going to have another dealership check it out. My question is, what should I look for on e39 BMW's? Any faults or usual suspects that pop up between 50k and 100k miles?

    Thanks!
  • 530ir1150r530ir1150r Member Posts: 263
    Extended warranties are never worth the money.

    The Kiplinger's Auto issue came yesterday; 5 year service costs for various models are:

    Audi A6 3.2 AWD $3958
    BMW 525i $3241
    BMW 335i $3932
    Infiniti G35 $3011
    Lexus GS 350 AWD $3636
    BMW 530i AWD $3241
    BMW 550i $3197
    Jaguar S-Type 3.0 $5002
    Mercedes Benz E350 AWD $5170

    BMWs compare favorably this year.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,495
    Helpful data -- thanks.

    Not surprisingly, these things (long-term warranty extensions) are sold at a profit -- they cost more than they're worth.

    The unanswered question in the Kiplinger's data is how much of the service cost had to do with items that were (or could have been) covered by some kind of warranty.

    I'm not holding my breath until I get that kind of support data. However, the G35 & 325i (on my short list) are in the lowest group and differ by a fraction, so regardless of what the criteria are, I'm going to assume that they're constant across the board.

    Again, thanks.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • 530ir1150r530ir1150r Member Posts: 263
    I do not have the magazine with me, but I think they extrapolate scheduled maintenance over a 5 year period with average mileage. That would not include warranty work, but they sent me a survey asking for repair costs for our cars last year; they may have a fudge factor for non scheduled repairs.

    Either way, I look at their information as relative, not absolute. That is a BMW 525i will cost 25% less to maintain than an Audi A6 AWD, not $700 less.
  • funkymunkyfunkymunky Member Posts: 3
    I have been having problems with starting. The mechanic replaced one temperature sensor, but the other one is not quite right. I got the factory-number part, but the threads are a little too big. I'm assuming this means the housing has been changed to one that's not the original spec for the car. Is this common on 88 535i's? If so, I'm trying to find out which size of sensor I need. (which housing) Maybe one from a different model that's commonly swapped to 535is?
  • gbb1gbb1 Member Posts: 1
    I would like to know if you have discovered anything further and if bmw has taken responsibility for the odor and is willing to fix it under warranty. I too have a similar problem with a 2004 525i. thank you
  • carissacarissa Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 750i with the same problem. When I started the car in the morning, the smell was very strong. Sometimes after driving it for a while, I had smoke come out of the vents for a couple of seconds then went away. BMW fixed this problem under new warranty by fumigating the car. They hooked it up under the hood and let it sit for a day. I have not had the smell since. If you don't get the answer you need from one service advisor ask another because from my experience, I got 3 different answers from 3 service advisors. The last one was correct and fixed the problem. Good luck and I hope they fix the problem for you.
  • dino11dino11 Member Posts: 32
    Have a 2006 530i with the sports suspension. Had a similar set up on an 2003. However, the 2006 with sports suspension comes with "run flat" tires. BMW's major screw-up which they refuse to acknowledge. Tire went flat in driveway. Nice light comes on. Got a patch put into the tire from a tire dealer. Otherwise cost you $300 for a tire. More if you dent the rim which is now one piece and cast instead to two piece forging. So, I took off all 4 tires and put into storage. Am running Avon M550s for the balance of the lease that I got from tirerack for $139 apiece. Ride is better, tires are fixable and I carry a tire off the rim in the trunk in case I get a flat. BMW calls itself the ultimate driving machine - this is true if you strap an extra run flat tire on the roof. The run flat tires are simply a technical disaster especially when you come to realize that nobody stocks them. And, you have to match tread patterns if you need a replacement. A flat tire on a trip- espcially on a weekend is a two day delay. Way to go BMW! I will remount the run flats at the end of the lease. Had 4 BMW cars. My 2006 is my last. Got my wife an Audi. Handling is almost as good and I like the styling more. Goodbye BMW. You could not give your cars away if you did not provide free service. At 10,000 miles, I have had three repairs- all due to faulty sensors on the engine. One repair took three days to find a steering angle sensor that matched the VIN of my vehicle. BMW is all hype and bloated advertising.
  • dino11dino11 Member Posts: 32
    had a similar smell from my wife's 2006 X-5. It was coming from the air flitler box. They have a spray that they use in the box, I think it is a fungus that forms in the box. Anyway, each service got a spray at the dealer and there was no more smell.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,363
    The indy BMW specialist I take my E39 to recommends a prophylactic replacement of the radiator on my MY 2000 528iA because of the problems encountered with these beyond the 75K mark.

    My car has 95K on it, and has had no cooling issues other than occasionally having to top off coolant.

    I'm inclined to go along w this recommendation since the OEM radiators are a known problem area, anyone disagree?

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I'm inclined to go along w this recommendation since the OEM radiators are a known problem area, anyone disagree?

    The original radiator in my 528iA lasted until @120K-it cracked while being removed to R&R the water pump. The OEM radiators are so inexpensive that I don't think it's worth gambling on their longevity. OTOH, if I was planning on keeping the car a long time and/or I had a 540i(which tend to fracture the top hose fitting), I'd consider Zionsville Autosports' All Alloy Radiator. Ditto for their metal thermostat housing and super duty water pump.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I had one blow up in my face, if that's any incentive. However, having the reflexes of a jungle cat :P I didn't get it in the eyes.
  • theflowtheflow Member Posts: 98
    I recently got a used 525i and it has some "issues" (to me) that I want to validate with other 525i owners before bringing it to the dealership again.

    1) While I open the window and it is going down, I also open the door. The window then stopped going down. It happens to all 4 doors. Is that some sort of safety features and normal?

    2) I have the automatic door lock function, but it only locks once. I mean after I start the car, it will lock when I drive above 2.5 mph, but if I press unlock, load and unload passengers, and continue to drive, it WILL NOT lock the door again. It will lock again ONLY if I restart the car. Is that normal?

    3) The "check high beam" message comes out randomly. The damn message won't come out when I was at the dealer. Of course they can't do anything cuz they all go by the code.

    4) I have the automatic climate control OFF. So every time when I start the car after locking it and unlocking, the Fan is ON automatically. Is that normal? However, if I turn off the Fan/AC without locking the car but just restart it after shutting it off, the Fan/AC remains off. Normal? No?

    5) Every time when I use the REAR window defroster, it also turns on the Front window defroster or the fan. Is it normal cuz I hated it!!!

    6) I read the manual that after I shut off the car, I can still operate the windows if I haven't opened the door yet. I tried, the window can be opened BUT the 1-touch Down function is not working and the 1-touch UP function works. Is it normal?

    I know I am anal about the car but I want to make sure everything works as designed and I want to have everything fixed before warranty expires in 2 months. Otherwise I am very happy with the car.
  • benzodieselbenzodiesel Member Posts: 10
    Just leased a new 07 530i with Nav. Dealer said Nav came with real-time traffic information, but that items not on the settings menu. Any iudea why or how to get it?
  • vizviz Member Posts: 75
    Hello all.
    I am planning to return the 530i leased vehicle. 53k miles on it.Unfortunately the service engine light came on , on the day of inspection. However, it disapperared after a day/two but inspection report still says the light is on. Talked to liability dept for the leasing bank; they suggested checked it by dealer. Here is tha back ground.
    1) I took it to dealer today- error code 50. Found faults stored for multiple cyc missfire. occured 1 time. possible has cam followers sticking when first startedcold. to further diagnose, car will need to be left and compression and cycl leakage test done with cold engine. Cost to test $200.
    2) Few months back, I took it to dealer for the rattling after cold start. They said at that time - found 1 time cyclinder 6 missfire.checked coil and plug. ok. could not duplicate the problem. The car was still under warranty at that time.

    Now I am in a dilemma -
    1)Should I return the vehicle to the leasing bank saying that engine light does not come on?
    2) When I am returning the car, if they feel the rattle after some days, Am I still responsible for the repair?
    3) Can some shed light on what exactly is happening with car and how much would it cost to get it fixed?
    4)Am I getting ripped off by the dealer? Why didnt they recognize the fault when I took it during the warranty period?

    Regards,
    Viz
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I believe that most leasing companies to allow for a re-inspection. I've never had to avail myself of that option, however, I've leased six different cars from six different leasing companies over the years, and so far at least, they all have had the option for a re-inspection.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • vizviz Member Posts: 75
    I spoke to Leasing bank.No re-inspection. They said if the light comes up during auto auction then it will be re-inspected and charged:(
    Thanks,
    Viz
  • joyrider147joyrider147 Member Posts: 69
    I have an 87 528e. All the instrumentation on the gauge cluster doesn't work, nor does the power seats. No tach, speedometer, fuel gauge, heat temp, or SI level, but the cluster gear selector for the automatic trans. lights up. It doesn't look like these items were touched or disassembled, but the car is so original that it still has the original factory crappy plastic mini-fuses in the car's fuse box. Would all of these items work if the fuses were changed out with new metal ones? Can anyone tell me the most common problems with this model BMW?

    Also, I am looking for several body parts, exterior parts, and interior parts for this car.

    If anyone has an e28 parts car available and can give me a good deal on these parts, can they email me with prices for these parts:

    * Both fog lights and front yellow turn signals
    * Lower front metal valence for 528e and/or front spoiler for 533i or 535i or M5.
    * Driver's side front seat, black leather in excellent condition and rear magazine holding net.
    * fully functioning overhead BMW lights diagnostic computer with "check" button that doesn't fall out.
    * black leather automatic gear shifter
    * excellent condition black body trim and brackets mounted on body by rear driver side passenger door
    * black dashboard trim grill holding cigarette lighter and other accesssories in excellent condition.
    * headlight/ foglight switch mounting trim
    * original 528e BMW car phone with mounting brackets and connecting phone cable running to trunk, in excellent condition.
    * black trim surrounding radio on dashboard in excellent condition.
    * black trim holding e-brake and seat switches, in excellent condition.
    * floor mats with "BMW" etched on them in black, excellent condition.

    Also, i have an 86 325es. When the fan belt slips, does that affect the timing for the valves, essentially damaging the engine and making it burn oil?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You could definitely have corrosion in the fuse box, or the fuse terminals, or it could be BEHIND the fuse box itself. Sure, replace the fuses. It's easy and it might solve your problem.

    No, a slipping fan belt doesn't affect engine timing, but it might affect the battery's charging rate.

    No glaring issues with the 528e other than the usual old BMW blues. Probably the worst thing you could say about the car is that it underperforms due to its engine design. It is not a strong engine in that sense.
  • djp4djp4 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2001 540i with 73K miles. Yesterday the navigation screen, which can pop open to put a cassette in behind it, began opening and closing on its own. It would open, than close and repeat this until I shut the car off.

    Does anyone have a reason why this would happen? I tried to get it to shut but it wouldn't work. I did remove the CD changer in the trunk and after a period of time it remained closed.

    Thanks
  • ddatddat Member Posts: 1
    My 1997 528i overheats while idling or city driving. Recently replaced thermostat and for four weeks didnt see any overheating whild idling. It came back again and mechanic is suspecting there could be the problem in the engine gasket head and gasket head needs a replacement. He thinks faulty gasket head might be causing air bubble into the cooling system causing overheating while idling. Gasket replacing is very expensive and am wondering what options i got.

    Is it okay to run the car as is as long as I dont idle the car too much ?

    I also read turning up the inside heat while idling can take away some heat from engine and prevent from overheating?

    Is there a way that this problem can be worked around without expensive procedures?

    All suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    My 1997 528i overheats while idling or city driving.

    Check the fan clutch as well as the auxiliary fan.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Gradual, low speed overheating is an AIR circulation problem, not a water circulation problem.

    Your mechanic can easily test for exhaust gases in the coolant. He doesn't have to guess about a bad head gasket.

    http://www.rxauto.com/blocktest.htm
  • sbrown8244sbrown8244 Member Posts: 5
    I just purchased my first BMW...a 2004 530i (CPO). It seems to be in very nice condition but has 43K miles on it. Thus, I have about 7K miles to get it in for any service/warranty work that I need/want done. I was told with a "wink" by the salesperson that they cannot just give the car a top-to-bottom inspection in the service department for warranty work, but rather can "respond" to any and all complaints made by the customer, whether a problem is ultimately found or not. Therefore, I am wondering from some more experienced owners...what sorts of "complaints" should I be making just prior to the 50K mile mark so as to hopefully discover and rectify as many issues as possible within very brief new car warranty period that I have left. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
  • sbrown8244sbrown8244 Member Posts: 5
    Also, they gave me a print out of the service record for the car since it was a lease through the same dealership, but I don't know what any of the numerical service codes mean. Is there anywhere I can go online to get an interpretation of these codes??
  • apriltabaccoapriltabacco Member Posts: 1
    Okay, I know it's an old car and it'll have issues, but I've changed the fuel filter and used fuel injector cleaner. If it were the fuel pump, wouldn't it die when I GIVE it gas, not when I let up? Anybody know what I can do to fix it?
  • jb_shinjb_shin Member Posts: 357
    google for the codes, you will find them. There are a few around on the net.
  • pen101pen101 Member Posts: 238
    The car: 02 530 5-speed, PP, SP, 58,500 miles, Leased and then purchased it CPO.

    Time for Inspection II.

    * Inspection II ($650)
    * Coolant Flush ($275)

    Declined the following recommended by dealer:

    * Front control arm bushings (leaking) ($481)
    * Rear wishbone ($990)
    * Alignment ($255)
    * Alternator belts ($429)
    * Brake fluid flush ($375)

    Questions:
    1. Are these type of repair recommendations normal for a car under 60K miles?
    2. Are these type and expense of repairs what I should expect in the coming years with the car?
    3. Dealer said none of the items fall under the CPO warranty. Anyone know differently?

    I do plan to get a second opinion on the dealer recommended items.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hey Pen, long time... ;-)

    - I would absolutely get the Brake fluid flushed from a good Indy (every two years regardless of the mileage). You can find a list of good Indy shops from BMW-CCA.
    - I'd take a pass on the suspension parts and have a good Indy take a look-see.
    - The drive and accessory belts are probably a good PM idea (as with any car of this age and mileage), however, I suspect that a good Indy will cost you a whole lot less.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,363
    I'll second the recommendation for a good Indy, they'll charge less and should be able to do a competent job.

    Look for one in your area @ www.bimrs.org.

    Control arm bushings seen to be a weak point on E39s so you're probably getting the straight scoop on those.">link title

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 234,725
    It seems like the extended maintenance plan would have paid off for you..

    It probably would have covered Inspection II, coolant flush, brake flush, and the alternator belts.. Not sure about the other items, though..

    You are still my hero for pulling off that CPO repurchase of your car for less than the residual value!!

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • jb_shinjb_shin Member Posts: 357
    The front arm bushings will eventaully cause shimmy in the steering. BMW recommends the arm and the bushing to be replaced together, and it does require a press to put the bushing in place. However, some members in the yahoo e39 group have replaced just the bushing. You can probably find a write up someone did.

    $375 for a brake flush? I knew they would charge a bit, but that is high.
  • pen101pen101 Member Posts: 238
    Thanks kyfdx, you have a very good memory about the CPO purchase. I have not posted here for a while and (shipo noticed), but have tried to keep up with the discussions.

    I try to always do my homework when dealing with car purchases and repairs. The inspection II cost more at the dealer (no surprise), but it was more convenient (I got a loaner BMW, a car wash, it was on my way to and from work and I had to do a lot of extra driving that day, so why not put the extra miles on a loaner). So the extra they charged for it was worth it to me.

    The other recommended items I will have checked at a local BMW indy. I did ask as to whether the extended maintenance contract would have covered the alternator belts and the other items and was told that it does not. Only maintenance items such as the coolant flush and brake flush. It was a tempting decision at the time as to whether or not to get the maintenance warranty at $1400. I knew the brakes were not a problem (they are still almost new - I had convinced the service writer back at 35,500 miles and while the car was still covered, that the car needed new brakes). So it was inspection II ($650), two oil changes ($200), coolant flush ($275) and brake fluid flush ($375) that would have to be done. That is $1500. However, if an indy would perform the items, maybe $100 or so less, so it is break even. I just hated to pay for it upfront.

    By the way, I used my BMW-Club membership to get a 10% discount on parts.
  • jb_shinjb_shin Member Posts: 357
    Extended maintenance coverage was also discussed on the M5board and it turns out you can negotiate the price on these. I have heard $1690 from my SA, but some have reported $1200, and it can be bought from any BMW dealer in the country.
  • rworrellrworrell Member Posts: 149
    Pen, I saw this reply from kyfdx:

    "You are still my hero for pulling off that CPO repurchase of your car for less than the residual value!!"

    and I tried searching but couldn't find your story--can you tell me more about this, please? I have a 2004 330i that I like a lot, but I'm worried about buying it out of its lease. I've purchased/leased 3 BMWs from this dealer, but all 3 salespeople are now gone (long and sad story)--could you give me a pointer to your story, or a recap, please? What you did is exactly what I hope to accomplish--thanks in advance.
  • pen101pen101 Member Posts: 238
    I'm flattered. See post 1215 of BMW - prices paid board.

    At that time I discovered that I could negotiate and purchase the car at the AUCTION price, which for my E39 was well below the buy-out price of my lease contract (and also the kelly blue book wholesale price). I also researched and found out how much it cost the dealer to CPO the car. Now all I needed was a dealer willing to take the bite.

    At the same time the 3 year/36,000 mile maintenance free warranty was expiring on the car. So I convinced the dealer to service the car and change the brakes and fix a few other things (such as the broken cup holders and the windshield wipers) so the car was in top condition (all free of course). I also purchased new tires (negotiated a killer deal at a tire store) so that it would pass CPO requirements.

    All the dealer had to do was check the boxes on the inspection and issue me a CPO certificate, make his few $100 and that was it. I also insisted on a complete detail of the car and had them waive the over-mileage and other fees. Later I also collected money from the BMW Club of America because I was (and still am) a member.

    Ok, I am both a CPA and attorney and I negotiate for a living. However, anyone can do this with a little research. Knowledge is power. Also, and most importantly, I must give lots of credit to the many fine members of this board who I learned so much from.
  • ryan540iryan540i Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 540i 2001 from a private party...great car. However the company that I hired to tint the windows left the doors open while they worked on the tint which in turn caused the battery to go dead....and I guess they had to "jump-start" it. After I was driving away, I noticed that my on-board computer, fuel gauge and tachometer are not working. Could this be related to the battery being low....or might it be something else. Thank you to whom ever can give me a little peace of mind.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 234,725
    Here is the link to pen101's great deal

    Read on through the thread for more information..

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  • rworrellrworrell Member Posts: 149
    pen101 & kyfdx:

    Thanks to you both for the info and the direct link. I'm going to go read all I can on the transaction. Thank you!
  • ChrisKohlerChrisKohler Member Posts: 7
    hi,
    Has any one had any experience in adding a backup camera and mp3 player to 2004 BMW 530i?
    Adam
  • ChrisKohlerChrisKohler Member Posts: 7
    Hi, Any one know where to get aluminum dash trims for BMW 2004 530i. I like the interior like M5. Thanks, Adam
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