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Anyone install one of these that can steer me in the right direction?
Thanx in advance,
Rob
kying
>>>I've been considering pulling the left-side-C-pillar interior trim to take a look at the antenna amplifier, but was uncertain about exactly HOW it came off.
Turns out - it comes off easily.
1. Remove light (small screwdriver - pry out at top). Disconnect power lead to it (some sort of retainer, you gotta wiggle and squeeze it)
2. Put left hand into hole so fingers are on either side of the visible clip. Put right hand into hole with fingers behind the front section of the trim. Pull straight out. There are two clips (one visible, one not) that go into plastic sockets in the body.
3. Wiggle the trim forwards and a bit upwards. It will come out. It is held in by the two pin-clips in the front, and has plastic hooks that slot into matching receptacles in the back around the glass.
OK.. had the amplifier exposed. Did the initial test - is it
working? Unplugged the violet/white power wire.. radio signal got a LOT worse.
Are all the antenna leads to it solid? Yup.. there is an AM/FM lead, and then it turns out a second FM coax that comes from a separate FM amplifier in the right-C-pillar (diversity antenna..)
OK.. what's the problem? I wiggled the lead that is the end of the antenna wire going to the radio.. all of a sudden, all the static on the AM band went away. I went and checked signal strengths - they were MUCH higher than I'd ever seen (up around 14 or so - I think 15 is max.. - I'll explain how to do this..)
I then checked FM - it was much better also..
I grabbed a pair of pliers and tightened the coax-connector for the antenna lead. Now wiggling it no longer caused the signal to change.
OK - how to check signal strength? Turn radio off. Turn on, and press the M button in and hold it. After about 10 seconds you go into diagnostics mode... one of the diagnostics gives signal strength. To roll through the diagnostics - use the manual up-down tuning buttons on either side of the M button.
One of the other settings available to you is the auto-volume setting as related to speed (1-6).. mine was at 3, I reset it to 4...
Once in the signal strength mode - the display has arrows above the two left MID buttons... The left-most button does manual up/down, and 2nd from the left does auto-seek. The frequency and signal strength read out in the MID.<<<
kying
Erin
- Retail Price vs the final negotiated price
- Terms: Deductible, what is covered, etc...
- Using the warranty: Any problems, great experience, etc...
- What it worth the money?
Thanks,
Was it worth the money?
Thanks!
The Kiplinger's Auto issue came yesterday; 5 year service costs for various models are:
Audi A6 3.2 AWD $3958
BMW 525i $3241
BMW 335i $3932
Infiniti G35 $3011
Lexus GS 350 AWD $3636
BMW 530i AWD $3241
BMW 550i $3197
Jaguar S-Type 3.0 $5002
Mercedes Benz E350 AWD $5170
BMWs compare favorably this year.
Not surprisingly, these things (long-term warranty extensions) are sold at a profit -- they cost more than they're worth.
The unanswered question in the Kiplinger's data is how much of the service cost had to do with items that were (or could have been) covered by some kind of warranty.
I'm not holding my breath until I get that kind of support data. However, the G35 & 325i (on my short list) are in the lowest group and differ by a fraction, so regardless of what the criteria are, I'm going to assume that they're constant across the board.
Again, thanks.
Either way, I look at their information as relative, not absolute. That is a BMW 525i will cost 25% less to maintain than an Audi A6 AWD, not $700 less.
My car has 95K on it, and has had no cooling issues other than occasionally having to top off coolant.
I'm inclined to go along w this recommendation since the OEM radiators are a known problem area, anyone disagree?
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
The original radiator in my 528iA lasted until @120K-it cracked while being removed to R&R the water pump. The OEM radiators are so inexpensive that I don't think it's worth gambling on their longevity. OTOH, if I was planning on keeping the car a long time and/or I had a 540i(which tend to fracture the top hose fitting), I'd consider Zionsville Autosports' All Alloy Radiator. Ditto for their metal thermostat housing and super duty water pump.
1) While I open the window and it is going down, I also open the door. The window then stopped going down. It happens to all 4 doors. Is that some sort of safety features and normal?
2) I have the automatic door lock function, but it only locks once. I mean after I start the car, it will lock when I drive above 2.5 mph, but if I press unlock, load and unload passengers, and continue to drive, it WILL NOT lock the door again. It will lock again ONLY if I restart the car. Is that normal?
3) The "check high beam" message comes out randomly. The damn message won't come out when I was at the dealer. Of course they can't do anything cuz they all go by the code.
4) I have the automatic climate control OFF. So every time when I start the car after locking it and unlocking, the Fan is ON automatically. Is that normal? However, if I turn off the Fan/AC without locking the car but just restart it after shutting it off, the Fan/AC remains off. Normal? No?
5) Every time when I use the REAR window defroster, it also turns on the Front window defroster or the fan. Is it normal cuz I hated it!!!
6) I read the manual that after I shut off the car, I can still operate the windows if I haven't opened the door yet. I tried, the window can be opened BUT the 1-touch Down function is not working and the 1-touch UP function works. Is it normal?
I know I am anal about the car but I want to make sure everything works as designed and I want to have everything fixed before warranty expires in 2 months. Otherwise I am very happy with the car.
I am planning to return the 530i leased vehicle. 53k miles on it.Unfortunately the service engine light came on , on the day of inspection. However, it disapperared after a day/two but inspection report still says the light is on. Talked to liability dept for the leasing bank; they suggested checked it by dealer. Here is tha back ground.
1) I took it to dealer today- error code 50. Found faults stored for multiple cyc missfire. occured 1 time. possible has cam followers sticking when first startedcold. to further diagnose, car will need to be left and compression and cycl leakage test done with cold engine. Cost to test $200.
2) Few months back, I took it to dealer for the rattling after cold start. They said at that time - found 1 time cyclinder 6 missfire.checked coil and plug. ok. could not duplicate the problem. The car was still under warranty at that time.
Now I am in a dilemma -
1)Should I return the vehicle to the leasing bank saying that engine light does not come on?
2) When I am returning the car, if they feel the rattle after some days, Am I still responsible for the repair?
3) Can some shed light on what exactly is happening with car and how much would it cost to get it fixed?
4)Am I getting ripped off by the dealer? Why didnt they recognize the fault when I took it during the warranty period?
Regards,
Viz
Best Regards,
Shipo
Thanks,
Viz
Also, I am looking for several body parts, exterior parts, and interior parts for this car.
If anyone has an e28 parts car available and can give me a good deal on these parts, can they email me with prices for these parts:
* Both fog lights and front yellow turn signals
* Lower front metal valence for 528e and/or front spoiler for 533i or 535i or M5.
* Driver's side front seat, black leather in excellent condition and rear magazine holding net.
* fully functioning overhead BMW lights diagnostic computer with "check" button that doesn't fall out.
* black leather automatic gear shifter
* excellent condition black body trim and brackets mounted on body by rear driver side passenger door
* black dashboard trim grill holding cigarette lighter and other accesssories in excellent condition.
* headlight/ foglight switch mounting trim
* original 528e BMW car phone with mounting brackets and connecting phone cable running to trunk, in excellent condition.
* black trim surrounding radio on dashboard in excellent condition.
* black trim holding e-brake and seat switches, in excellent condition.
* floor mats with "BMW" etched on them in black, excellent condition.
Also, i have an 86 325es. When the fan belt slips, does that affect the timing for the valves, essentially damaging the engine and making it burn oil?
No, a slipping fan belt doesn't affect engine timing, but it might affect the battery's charging rate.
No glaring issues with the 528e other than the usual old BMW blues. Probably the worst thing you could say about the car is that it underperforms due to its engine design. It is not a strong engine in that sense.
Does anyone have a reason why this would happen? I tried to get it to shut but it wouldn't work. I did remove the CD changer in the trunk and after a period of time it remained closed.
Thanks
Is it okay to run the car as is as long as I dont idle the car too much ?
I also read turning up the inside heat while idling can take away some heat from engine and prevent from overheating?
Is there a way that this problem can be worked around without expensive procedures?
All suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Check the fan clutch as well as the auxiliary fan.
Your mechanic can easily test for exhaust gases in the coolant. He doesn't have to guess about a bad head gasket.
http://www.rxauto.com/blocktest.htm
Time for Inspection II.
* Inspection II ($650)
* Coolant Flush ($275)
Declined the following recommended by dealer:
* Front control arm bushings (leaking) ($481)
* Rear wishbone ($990)
* Alignment ($255)
* Alternator belts ($429)
* Brake fluid flush ($375)
Questions:
1. Are these type of repair recommendations normal for a car under 60K miles?
2. Are these type and expense of repairs what I should expect in the coming years with the car?
3. Dealer said none of the items fall under the CPO warranty. Anyone know differently?
I do plan to get a second opinion on the dealer recommended items.
- I would absolutely get the Brake fluid flushed from a good Indy (every two years regardless of the mileage). You can find a list of good Indy shops from BMW-CCA.
- I'd take a pass on the suspension parts and have a good Indy take a look-see.
- The drive and accessory belts are probably a good PM idea (as with any car of this age and mileage), however, I suspect that a good Indy will cost you a whole lot less.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Look for one in your area @ www.bimrs.org.
Control arm bushings seen to be a weak point on E39s so you're probably getting the straight scoop on those.">link title
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
It probably would have covered Inspection II, coolant flush, brake flush, and the alternator belts.. Not sure about the other items, though..
You are still my hero for pulling off that CPO repurchase of your car for less than the residual value!!
regards,
kyfdx
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$375 for a brake flush? I knew they would charge a bit, but that is high.
I try to always do my homework when dealing with car purchases and repairs. The inspection II cost more at the dealer (no surprise), but it was more convenient (I got a loaner BMW, a car wash, it was on my way to and from work and I had to do a lot of extra driving that day, so why not put the extra miles on a loaner). So the extra they charged for it was worth it to me.
The other recommended items I will have checked at a local BMW indy. I did ask as to whether the extended maintenance contract would have covered the alternator belts and the other items and was told that it does not. Only maintenance items such as the coolant flush and brake flush. It was a tempting decision at the time as to whether or not to get the maintenance warranty at $1400. I knew the brakes were not a problem (they are still almost new - I had convinced the service writer back at 35,500 miles and while the car was still covered, that the car needed new brakes). So it was inspection II ($650), two oil changes ($200), coolant flush ($275) and brake fluid flush ($375) that would have to be done. That is $1500. However, if an indy would perform the items, maybe $100 or so less, so it is break even. I just hated to pay for it upfront.
By the way, I used my BMW-Club membership to get a 10% discount on parts.
"You are still my hero for pulling off that CPO repurchase of your car for less than the residual value!!"
and I tried searching but couldn't find your story--can you tell me more about this, please? I have a 2004 330i that I like a lot, but I'm worried about buying it out of its lease. I've purchased/leased 3 BMWs from this dealer, but all 3 salespeople are now gone (long and sad story)--could you give me a pointer to your story, or a recap, please? What you did is exactly what I hope to accomplish--thanks in advance.
At that time I discovered that I could negotiate and purchase the car at the AUCTION price, which for my E39 was well below the buy-out price of my lease contract (and also the kelly blue book wholesale price). I also researched and found out how much it cost the dealer to CPO the car. Now all I needed was a dealer willing to take the bite.
At the same time the 3 year/36,000 mile maintenance free warranty was expiring on the car. So I convinced the dealer to service the car and change the brakes and fix a few other things (such as the broken cup holders and the windshield wipers) so the car was in top condition (all free of course). I also purchased new tires (negotiated a killer deal at a tire store) so that it would pass CPO requirements.
All the dealer had to do was check the boxes on the inspection and issue me a CPO certificate, make his few $100 and that was it. I also insisted on a complete detail of the car and had them waive the over-mileage and other fees. Later I also collected money from the BMW Club of America because I was (and still am) a member.
Ok, I am both a CPA and attorney and I negotiate for a living. However, anyone can do this with a little research. Knowledge is power. Also, and most importantly, I must give lots of credit to the many fine members of this board who I learned so much from.
Read on through the thread for more information..
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Thanks to you both for the info and the direct link. I'm going to go read all I can on the transaction. Thank you!
Has any one had any experience in adding a backup camera and mp3 player to 2004 BMW 530i?
Adam