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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Actually, they are both in the queue, I just checked. We've got a bug we're waiting to get fixed, I'm told that should be tomorrow. One of them will go up as soon as that's resolved, sorry about that.
  • bgdell1bgdell1 Member Posts: 1
    Was jump starting a vehicle with my car and it suddenly died. Went to go restart and it won't turn over at all but when I turn the key the hazards and interior lights flash on and off many times and I hear a clicking as if a switch under rear seat is clicking on and off. Any ideas what the problem may be
  • bsmartbsmart Member Posts: 8
    1995 540i 140000 miles.
    Starting skipping or rough idle at start and idle, upon increase in speed the skip goes away, and then sometimes it stops at idle but not for long.
    Have had the gasket replaced 2 years ago that lets oil on the spark plugs (sorry, don't the correct term). Removed and replaced the spark plugs without sign of oil this time.
    Also had it put on the computer at BMW, nothing showed up. The check engine light flickers at times, does not stay on long enough to capture code.
    Any suggestions, could it be a vacuum leak?

    2. Upon putting key in the ignition and turning, there is a whining noise in the engine that continues 5-10 mins. then stops.

    Thanks for any help you may have.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you have bad battery cable connections/corrosion/tightness or funky jumper cables.
  • milner007milner007 Member Posts: 20
    Hey all- I have a 2000 528i- sp, pp, manual. Since it has gotten kind of cold here (in the 30's and 40's) I have noticed that the temp gauge never gets to the mid point unless the car sits for a long time. Once I start driving it drops to right above the quarter hash mark. I have had the car since its birth and it has always warmed up to the halfway mark and stayed there regardless of the outside temperature. IIs this a cause for concern? I'm taking a 200 mile road trip tomorrow and want to make sure this is not a problem. No check engine light or any other warning has come on. Thanks for your help.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I have noticed that the temp gauge never gets to the mid point unless the car sits for a long time. Once I start driving it drops to right above the quarter hash mark.

    It's a failed thermostat, a very common problem for a 530i of that age. Make sure that you -or whoever does the job- replaces the plastic thermostat housing while you are at it. It's cheap insurance.

    I'm taking a 200 mile road trip tomorrow and want to make sure this is not a problem.

    It may run a tad rich, but you aren't going to damage your car. That said, I'd fix it at your earliest convenience.

    No check engine light or any other warning has come on.

    That's not unusual; when the thermostat on my 528i died it didn't activate the CEL either.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • milner007milner007 Member Posts: 20
    Roadburner- thanks for the info! Glad to know it won't hurt the car.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If your car has high mileage you'd best watch your cooling system on any E39. Examine the thermostat housing for corrosion and have your shop check the radiator upper neck, the water pump and the cooling fan clutch. About 80K is the magic number to get proactive on this car.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,370
    E39s are famous for radiator failures. Shifty and R'burner have some good suggestions about areas to check out. I had no cooling problems up to 100K but
    I decided to take the advice of the Indie specialist that does my car and do a prophylactic replacement of the radiator and expansion tank.

    It's not that expensive and should help you enjoy your car for many more miles.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I'd just add that it has been my experience that in a six cylinder E39 the water pump will last @60K miles and the radiator will make it to at least 100K. The V8 cars are the ones that kill the radiators at @70K. In any event, there are now all metal radiators, and beefed up water pumps that essentially cure both problems. Needless to say, they are somewhat more expensive than the OEM parts. If I had an E39 with over 60K on the clock I'd probably go with the upgraded parts if I was keeping the car for the long haul(200K or more) or the car was going to see HPDE use.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • ny540i6ny540i6 Member Posts: 518
    On my E39 540 I now have around 140K on the clock. I replaced the radiator around 80K, and since I was doing that, I replaced just about all the cooling system - water pump, thermostat, hoses, and the damn cheap expansion tank. I'm about to look at that stuff again, as soon as it gets warmer, and I am seriously tempted by a radiator that is more art than science - It is a gorgeous piece from Zionsville- www.zionsvilleautosport.com. if you want to see it. Only problems are that it costs way more than a stocker, and it is the kind of thing that means I am committing to the car for at least another 100K. Of course, if I do that, then I believe that I'd have to go with a much higher flow water pump etc etc.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Yes, the Zionsville radiator was the one that I was referring to. It's a very nice piece of work if you are planning to keep your car for the long haul.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,370
    Hmmm, I haven't replaced the water pump yet, should I do a preemptive replacement now that the car is into six figures?

    -2000 528iA, 103K.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    It's a funny thing, all but one of my BMW sixes have usually need a water pump at around 60K intervals(my 1973 Bavaria 3.0 was the outlier). Then there are guys over on the Yahoo E39 group who are well into six figures and still on their original pump. The pumps usually start to drip a bit before they let go, so if you keep an eye on it you'll probably be OK. That said, the OEMs aren't all that expensive, and if you combine the work with a coolant change it shouldn't cost too much.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • milner007milner007 Member Posts: 20
    Thanks for the response- I am taking the car in tomorrow to have the thermostat replaced and I'll ask about the other things you mentioned- the car only has 68k on it.
  • a1937forda1937ford Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1998 528 the transmission is slipping bad and when its in drive it acts like its in neutral. do i drain the old fluid and add new? if so how and what type of fluid do i use and how much
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    do i drain the old fluid and add new?

    How many miles on the car? Has the fluid ever been changed? I'd check the ATF level first. Here's how to check the ATF level. It's on page 2 of the PDF file.

    Here is the ATF/filter change how-to. Your car uses a similar GM transmission- the A4S 270R.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • ferozferoz Member Posts: 14
    Hi Guys! I see some very diffrent states on 4-6 year old bimmers. Some look like new while other have severaly details. On the milage it´s even more confusing. Can owner who want to sell their cars alter the milage?

    Thanks!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Not legally, at least, not here in the U.S.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • ferozferoz Member Posts: 14
    Thanks for your quick response. Is it technically possible? Can some one access the computer and change the milage??? I would think manufactures protect thei cars aginst such abuse.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    The only way that I know of to change the mileage is to swap out the entire instrument cluster, probably more money to do that then just deal with the lower value of a high mileage car.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I subscribe to a Brit BMW magazine -BMW Car- and there was a discussion about this very issue several years ago. Apparently it is possible. As a side note. BMW will recode a new cluster to match that of a car that is at one of their dealers, but it takes a few days and the car has to stay at the dealer so that the miles on on the old and new clusters match.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Very risky business. You can get jail time for spinning speedos. This is a serious crime.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Very risky business. You can get jail time for spinning speedos. This is a serious crime.

    Agreed, but it would be nice to be able to buy a used cluster and be able to reset its mileage to equal the actual mileage of your car. Actually, I never understood why automakers don't store vehicle mileage in a memory module that is seperate from the cluster so you wouldn't have the problem to begin with... :mad:

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • ny540i6ny540i6 Member Posts: 518
    Couple of days ago I started getting a loud banging under the middle of my car at low speed, first/second gear movement. I was a little annoyed because I have "just" replaced the transmission and engine mounts (After I checked my records, it turns out that "just" was 80K and 2 years ago!) Got the thing up on a lift today, and it turns out that it is the driveshaft support that has worn out. Go figure.... I guess that at 145K I'm starting to see the stuff that is not part of any real maintenance schedule.
  • fensterfenster Member Posts: 1
    ANyone know how dependable these are and how many miles are good? I am looking at one, my first, and it has 109k miles but in perfect condition. There is a little "shimmy" when you getin the engine slowly and we are going to have that checked out but otherwise, just what kind of luck and anyone had with these cars?
  • ny540i6ny540i6 Member Posts: 518
    Fenster, car is only as good as how it's been maintained... having said that, I'd suggest getting acopy of this month's "Bimmer" magazine, as it includes a piece on the E39 with concerns etc.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I guess that at 145K I'm starting to see the stuff that is not part of any real maintenance schedule.

    I had to replace the ones on my E3 Bavaria and E28 535is; it's not all that uncommon.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's a pretty common repair and always something to watch out for.

    A used 528i is something I view like a "bank account". If the previous owner has been making withdrawals with few deposits. the new owner is going to go bankrupt. If the deposits have been kept up, then you can run these cars a long, long time---as long as YOU continue to make those deposits.

    A BMW is not a car you can be 'reactive' with, like a Toyota. When something breaks, it's going to cost you a lot of money to repair both the item and the collateral damage. You have to be pro-active with them because the stakes are higher than with a Hyundai. (as are the rewards :P )
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,370
    The '98 you're looking at has just a few more miles than my 2000 528iA which is close to 104,000 miles. I've made the "deposits" and been rewarded with a car that is quite dependable and rarely out of service except for routine maintainence.
    I expect to enjoy The Blue Max for many more miles.

    You should consider a preemptive replacement of the original radiator and expansion tank as these are known issues on E39s. If it's an Automatic as most 528s are, don't rely on BMW's ludicrous Lifetime Lube scheme, have it flushed every 60K or so. If that hasn't been done on the one you're looking at, or isn't documented-- beware!

    Shifty's advice about preventive maintenence is right on.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • beolsonbeolson Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2001 530I with 98k miles. I had the oil changed in mid-December. Two weeks later, oil light came on; oil level was several quarts low. Oil droplets were on the rear end of the car (I did not notice early on because the rear end was covered with snow). Oil dripping from tailpipe. Mechanic was puzzled, replaced oil separator. No change. Help...
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,370
    Any signs of oil pooling or dripping below the car when it's parked? Any smoke coming out on startup or while the motor's running? Any sign of oil leaking from the valve cover gasket?

    I wonder what the hell an oil separator is. :confuse:

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    IIt's just a fancy German PCV valve which, unlike the simpler, cheaper, primitive, $2 valves in American cars, actually manages to get stuck a lot. You can clean 'em however.

    Excessive crankcase pressure from a stuck PCV will force oil anywhere it can get out, iincluding seals and piston rings.

    image
  • beolsonbeolson Member Posts: 8
    The oil separator is an "expensive" PCV solution.
    With its replacement, at least in the short term, the problem with my 530i is not solved. Possibly, the new, finer synthetic oil with the recent oil change? Or, earlier threads on this page suggest new valve stems/guides? Advice?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Worn valve guides should have shown up on the cylinder leakdown test.

    Do you get a puff of blue smoke when you first start the car in the morning?

    Actually I think you need to start a very careful oil consumption test to see what's really going on here. This would require placing the car in a level spot overnight and in the morning marking the dip stick level, then driving 1,000 miles and rechecking at the same spot in the morning before starting the car and marking the new level.
  • beolsonbeolson Member Posts: 8
    Engine passed the cylinder leakdown test with flying colors. No puff of blue smoke when I start the car in the morning. No leaks from engine, although there is an acrid smell from the engine area when I turn it off. Twice last weekend, I took it up to legal speed (75 mph) on the Interstate in 3rd gear for a couple of miles (4500-5000 rpm). Started to smoke then, especially when I took my foot off the pedal on the off-ramp. Regarding consumption, it used more than 2 quarts in 500 miles before the oil separator was replaced. Appears to be on the same trend now as before (oil droplets appearing again on rear of car).
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    If you're getting smoke when you're using engine braking, it is almost assuredly valve guides. FWIW, I have seen isolated cases where an engine will do will on a leak-down test and still have worn guides.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yep, that's valve guide wear all right or bad valve stem seals (which might have sneaked by the testing).
  • beolsonbeolson Member Posts: 8
    I greatly appreciate the feedback from you and Mr. Shipo. I will take this information to my import mechanic (closest BMW dealer is 400 miles away).
    One last question, this excessive oil consumption began to occur immediately after I had the oil changed in December. Coincidence? From item number 434 on this page, "The main reason that you wouldn't want to switch is that the engine seals will have shrunk on a higher mileage car and synthetic can leak because it's much finer." Not sure if they used a different brand or weight range?
    Again thanks for the feedback.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Any reference to synthetic oil affecting the engine seals is bull. Your engine was designed to run exclusively on synthetic oil, and even if it wasn't, synthetic oil wouldn't bother internal seals one bit. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • davis101davis101 Member Posts: 5
    I have the same problem (2002 bmw 525i) as you have and have been totally stumped. Did you find the cause? Thannks for any assist!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It just ain't so....the use of synthetic oil is irrelevant to your problem.
  • ny540i6ny540i6 Member Posts: 518
    I need to replace some stuff under the machine (2003 540i, six speed manual) - specifically slightly wonky driveshaft. I might also be replacing some of the exhaust system, around the center silencer. I don't need to replace the muffler, since I am now using a Dinan muffler/exhaust. I am curious as to the normal life of the catalytic converters since I would hate to spring for $2500 + (for the pair) if I don't have to - at the same time, if they are projected to go in 10K miles or so, then I'd replace them now and do the front section of the exhaust all at once. In addition (now that I am thinking of it) I've been lucky with the O2 sensors and am still running the originals. The car has 145,000 miles on the clock, and I plan keeping it for another 3 years (at least).

    Thoughts?
  • davis101davis101 Member Posts: 5
    cats go after 90, 000 miles depending on inspection method, replaced my sensors at 50, 000 miles---525i, it is not fun to do at home. BMW/ Porsce owner since 1972. Love them till they break!
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I am curious as to the normal life of the catalytic converters since I would hate to spring for $2500 + (for the pair) if I don't have to - at the same time, if they are projected to go in 10K miles or so, then I'd replace them now and do the front section of the exhaust all at once.

    I'd leave them alone for now; if/when they do die, there are some aftermarket cats which will do an excellent job for much less than the OEM units.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • ny540i6ny540i6 Member Posts: 518
    Thanks Road... just curious, since I've been looking on line... who makes those replacement units?
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Thanks Road... just curious, since I've been looking on line... who makes those replacement units?

    On the E39 and M5 boards you hear a lot about Magnaflow, Random Technology, and a few other brands such as Supersprint. To be honest, there's no real consensus as to which is best. I know that more than a few E39 M5 owners have had problems with aftermarket cats throwing CELs- but there's also aftermarket software that "fixes" the problem... ;) If I were you I'd check with some local CCA members and see what independent shops they recommend- then see if those shops have had good luck with any particular brand.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • dansa2dansa2 Member Posts: 28
    2003 5 series passenger seat is rarely used. One side of seat will not raise nor recline. BMW service informed me that motor cable is stretched, they have repaired as many as 50. A 5hr job plus parts. reluctant to have repaired they came back with 3hr plus parts. Has anyone had this seat problem?
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,370
    It sems odd that the cable on a rarely used seat would be (over)stretched. In any case it might be cheaper to install a seat from a wreck.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    One side of seat will not raise nor recline. BMW service informed me that motor cable is stretched, they have repaired as many as 50. A 5hr job plus parts. reluctant to have repaired they came back with 3hr plus parts. Has anyone had this seat problem?

    This is a very common problem dating back to the E28 5 Series. The outer cable sheath stretches and prevents the inner drive cable from engaging either the drive motor or the seat actuator. You can fix it yourself if you have the time and patience; I'd at least give it a shot. Here are two pages that discuss the various repair methods:
    Fix #1
    Fix #2
    Although these pages refer to the E32 7 Series and the E34 5 Series, the E39 seats are configured in a similar fashon. Whatever you do, DON'T turn on the ignition with the seats unplugged or out of the car; you will activate the SRS fault light which will need to be reset by either a dealer or an independent BMW tech.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

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