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Comments
Starting skipping or rough idle at start and idle, upon increase in speed the skip goes away, and then sometimes it stops at idle but not for long.
Have had the gasket replaced 2 years ago that lets oil on the spark plugs (sorry, don't the correct term). Removed and replaced the spark plugs without sign of oil this time.
Also had it put on the computer at BMW, nothing showed up. The check engine light flickers at times, does not stay on long enough to capture code.
Any suggestions, could it be a vacuum leak?
2. Upon putting key in the ignition and turning, there is a whining noise in the engine that continues 5-10 mins. then stops.
Thanks for any help you may have.
It's a failed thermostat, a very common problem for a 530i of that age. Make sure that you -or whoever does the job- replaces the plastic thermostat housing while you are at it. It's cheap insurance.
I'm taking a 200 mile road trip tomorrow and want to make sure this is not a problem.
It may run a tad rich, but you aren't going to damage your car. That said, I'd fix it at your earliest convenience.
No check engine light or any other warning has come on.
That's not unusual; when the thermostat on my 528i died it didn't activate the CEL either.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I decided to take the advice of the Indie specialist that does my car and do a prophylactic replacement of the radiator and expansion tank.
It's not that expensive and should help you enjoy your car for many more miles.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
-2000 528iA, 103K.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
How many miles on the car? Has the fluid ever been changed? I'd check the ATF level first. Here's how to check the ATF level. It's on page 2 of the PDF file.
Here is the ATF/filter change how-to. Your car uses a similar GM transmission- the A4S 270R.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Thanks!
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Agreed, but it would be nice to be able to buy a used cluster and be able to reset its mileage to equal the actual mileage of your car. Actually, I never understood why automakers don't store vehicle mileage in a memory module that is seperate from the cluster so you wouldn't have the problem to begin with... :mad:
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I had to replace the ones on my E3 Bavaria and E28 535is; it's not all that uncommon.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
A used 528i is something I view like a "bank account". If the previous owner has been making withdrawals with few deposits. the new owner is going to go bankrupt. If the deposits have been kept up, then you can run these cars a long, long time---as long as YOU continue to make those deposits.
A BMW is not a car you can be 'reactive' with, like a Toyota. When something breaks, it's going to cost you a lot of money to repair both the item and the collateral damage. You have to be pro-active with them because the stakes are higher than with a Hyundai. (as are the rewards :P )
I expect to enjoy The Blue Max for many more miles.
You should consider a preemptive replacement of the original radiator and expansion tank as these are known issues on E39s. If it's an Automatic as most 528s are, don't rely on BMW's ludicrous Lifetime Lube scheme, have it flushed every 60K or so. If that hasn't been done on the one you're looking at, or isn't documented-- beware!
Shifty's advice about preventive maintenence is right on.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I wonder what the hell an oil separator is. :confuse:
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Excessive crankcase pressure from a stuck PCV will force oil anywhere it can get out, iincluding seals and piston rings.
With its replacement, at least in the short term, the problem with my 530i is not solved. Possibly, the new, finer synthetic oil with the recent oil change? Or, earlier threads on this page suggest new valve stems/guides? Advice?
Do you get a puff of blue smoke when you first start the car in the morning?
Actually I think you need to start a very careful oil consumption test to see what's really going on here. This would require placing the car in a level spot overnight and in the morning marking the dip stick level, then driving 1,000 miles and rechecking at the same spot in the morning before starting the car and marking the new level.
Best Regards,
Shipo
One last question, this excessive oil consumption began to occur immediately after I had the oil changed in December. Coincidence? From item number 434 on this page, "The main reason that you wouldn't want to switch is that the engine seals will have shrunk on a higher mileage car and synthetic can leak because it's much finer." Not sure if they used a different brand or weight range?
Again thanks for the feedback.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Thoughts?
I'd leave them alone for now; if/when they do die, there are some aftermarket cats which will do an excellent job for much less than the OEM units.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
On the E39 and M5 boards you hear a lot about Magnaflow, Random Technology, and a few other brands such as Supersprint. To be honest, there's no real consensus as to which is best. I know that more than a few E39 M5 owners have had problems with aftermarket cats throwing CELs- but there's also aftermarket software that "fixes" the problem... If I were you I'd check with some local CCA members and see what independent shops they recommend- then see if those shops have had good luck with any particular brand.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
This is a very common problem dating back to the E28 5 Series. The outer cable sheath stretches and prevents the inner drive cable from engaging either the drive motor or the seat actuator. You can fix it yourself if you have the time and patience; I'd at least give it a shot. Here are two pages that discuss the various repair methods:
Fix #1
Fix #2
Although these pages refer to the E32 7 Series and the E34 5 Series, the E39 seats are configured in a similar fashon. Whatever you do, DON'T turn on the ignition with the seats unplugged or out of the car; you will activate the SRS fault light which will need to be reset by either a dealer or an independent BMW tech.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive