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Comments
One the repair is done should I expect better low end torque, better MPG or what?
Thanks!
Here's a YouTube video on these sensors with an obnoxious soundtrack, but it does tell you the different types of crankshaft sensors and how they work. I'm not sure which one your BMW uses but it's probably the most complicated one :P
Mr. Dull EngineerTalks About Crankshaft Sensors
PS: Turn down your volume, this soundtrack is LOUD.
We have on the street parking and we love this vehicle (with it's 232 G miles) but I know my neighbors want to put this car out of commission as much as I do.
Thanks!
Niki
The techs told me that I'd probably experience a gradual decline in performance so I elected to replace it because I had partial warranty coverage.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
pass. restraint malfunction
cruise control malfunction
wind shield wiper malfunction
Any ideas? Would installing a brand new battery help or is this different? It all started when the battery died.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
If I get up to that RPM, the power loss is complete until the revs fall, and the check engine light comes on.
Any thoughts as to what to look for, things to check/try? My mechanic is stuck and scratching his head...the short block was replaced under warranty in 1999, so it isn't related to the old problem with sulfur and the original alusil engine blocks in the mid-90s V8s.
Thanks!
David
Also, has he by-passed or tested the catalytic or checked for a damaged (crunched) exhaust pipe.
What code is the engine light throwing?
I'll pass on the suggestion regarding the catalytic, the exhaust pipe is fine, I did take a look at the underside of the car for another reason, and didn't see anything out of the ordinary.
I also finally changed the battery, after having one or two instances where I had to roll start the car (manual tranny, fortunately). I've gone since '03 and 149K miles on the original, so no complaints there. I'm using an Interstate MTP93 as the replacement.
On another note, I'm looking to replace/upgrade the rotors, and maybe the pads. I don't want a big brake kit, don't want cross drilled, might be willing to consider slotted or dimpled. All I'm looking for is an antidote to the warping/vibration that I sometimes get after a couple high speed slowdowns. It goes away once the rotors cool, but it is still annoying.
Any suggestions are welcomed.
Went with BMW-spec rotors/pads, not the cross-drilled options from Baer or Brembo. Never had any warping on the originals, just wore them down.
Mainly an aesthetic concern, but does anyone have experience and recommendations for replacing the windshield?
Many thanks!
Now the good news: The E39 is rigid enough that it handles removal/replacement well. The new one is most probably going to be tougher - the original glass is somewhat soft, and pits easily. My replacement is not looking sandblasted yet. Any reputable glass house will do the job, and it should cost a couple hundred bucks.
Funny thing is, I drive on rough unpaved roads all the time and The Blue Max is as solid as ever, windshield included, despite a small chip on the glass.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Assuming you can't tell your glass was replaced by looking at it up close?
No, it is not at all detectable.
The car is in good shape and drives beautifully and reliably at 106K miles. I'll probably pick up another 2000 or so miles before I set out on the 2500 mile trek.
The car got a prophylactic radiator replacement at 94K as well as the Inspection 2 service. V-belts and PS hoses were also replaced and the A/T was serviced. pads, rotors and fluids were done as well.
I'll plan to change the differential fluid before I go and have the brakes bled again. I'm wondering if I should replace the water pump as these seem problematic on some E39s.
Any opinions on that or any other precautions?
PS, the car has a fresh coat of wax, I've seen what that AZ sun can do to a finish, the ultraviolet dulls the paint something fierce.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
My '03 540 is about due (148K on the clock) and I'm doing all that before the end of the summer, in addition to a bit of a brake upgrade.
Dealer also suggested replacing main drive belt, but said there was "no immediate danger"! I want to trust them, but...
As for the "main drive belt", assuming it's the V-belt that drives the alternator, w pump etc, a replacement at 60K miles doesn't sound unreasonable.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Any other thoughts besides starter? (Which, BTW, I've NOT ever replaced).
I'd load test the battery(could be an infant mortality) and make sure that all cable connections are clean and tight.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
They now have my new vehicle at service for 4 days, and they said it is the same error message they get out of my computer when they plug in their reader as the other car. They said they are waiting for BMW to come up with a fix, but in the meantime, 2 in a row???? I have to believe others have had problems like mine because the odds of it happening only to me are astronomical. BMW says it hasn't happened on any other vehicles. I don't believe that. What should I do? I requested that they replace my vehicle again, but no response.
As the problem ages, the car gets harder to start as the battery keeps discharging, and only in heavy rain. They've repalced every conceivable part, still not solution. And now I have the same problem with the brand new one with 230 miles on it.
Thanks All.
Thanks all
I wouldn't buy either without a thorough inspection by a BMW specialist who should be able to tell you what maintainence and replacements are needed.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I, on the other hand, have a brand-spanking new 550i Sport and have had to have the engine wiring harness replaced. So, as always, it's still a crap-shoot w/ German cars. :sick:
On the 100K car, that's just about time for suspension work (getting tired), control arm bushings, and of course cooling system problems as we all know.
Looks like an '02 in decent but not spectacular shape with 100K miles should be selling privately for around $12,000 retail.