BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

gardis · November 2008

This is why I'm so hesitant about buying that CPO 2008 535i. I just am not a high power engine enthusiast. I don't know anything about turbos and I'd be much more comfortable with the straight 528i.

Guys, wha'ts with the chrome trim around the door frame? I hate that chrome, I prefer the solid black look. Why do some have the solid black, but most have the chrome? How do I get the 528i in solid black trim around the doors/windows?? Another reason why I loved the 535i I looked at. It's a minor thing, but it's aesthetic with me.

roadburner · November 2008

Guys, wha'ts with the chrome trim around the door frame? I hate that chrome, I prefer the solid black look. Why do some have the solid black, but most have the chrome? How do I get the 528i in solid black trim around the doors/windows?? Another reason why I loved the 535i I looked at. It's a minor thing, but it's aesthetic with me

BMW calls the black trim "Shadowline". If you are ordering a car and have a very good dealer, they might-repeat, MIGHT-be able to get the Shadowline installed on your car. Probably won't be cheap, however. Of course you can always order the trim and install it yourself(which is what I'd do) or have a good body shop install it.

sb55 · November 2008

You usually get the Shadowline (black) trim with the Sport package.

roadburner · November 2008

You usually get the Shadowline (black) trim with the Sport package.

I know; I assumed he just wanted the trim...

gardis · November 2008

Yes I figured that trim came with the sports package. I looked at a white 2007 530i, it had the black trim and heavy tinted windows, 30463K miles. They're asking $34900 for the vehicle. I'm not really that interested. I sat in the car, it still smells new, and was beautiful. Real solid vehicle, but I didn't care for those heavily tinted windows and I'd like a black one. She's going to try to find me one. Full warranty runs until Oct 2012. That's pretty good.

drenthe · December 2008

The arm of the rear windshield wiper recently broke. I went online, found and purchased another arm and wanted to replace it. But I can't get the cover off in order to get to pull the arm off the splined shaft. There is a small slot at the bottom and all suggestions tell me that you put a screw driver in it and lift the cover off. Not so. It will lift 1/4" but that's it. I started to damage the material and am afraid that I will destroy the thing if I try harder. Can anybody tell me what I need to know to lift the triangular cover off the rear window handle, so that I can remove the broken wiper arm?
Thank you for your help!
Jan

bears3 · December 2008

I have a 2001 525i with 165k miles on it. i'm currently having several issues i need some education on.
first, my heater controls have become "possessed" regardless of what temp i select on either heat or ac, the fan motor blows erratically, switching from fast to slow, back to fast in a matter of seconds and just keeps doing that the entire time. this happens if i have it on auto, or floor, etc. if i try to manually control the fan with the + or - control it does no good. it is so bad i can't even use the heat
second, my windshield wipers will only go up, get stuck at the top and then i hear a "wurrrr" sound from under the windshield and they stop. I can give them a push with my hand to get them back down, and they seem to be free and nothing blocking them, and when i turn them on and manually help them along with my hand nothing seems to be binding, but if i let them go they'll stop in the same place every time.
fianally, my check engine light is on again, and the code is coming up cam shaft position sensor"B". This will be my third time replacing this same sensor, they only seem to last about 30k miles before they fail. I'm using a genuine bmw replacement partany idea what wold keep causing this to fail?
i could really use some good advice as finances are tight and i really can't afford another $2000 bmw service repair bill.

530ir1150r · December 2008

Your first issue is a Final Stage Unit. I had mine replaced last Wednesday when I bought a new battery. The part was $102 and an hour of labor covered both.

I cannot help you on your other issues.

roadburner · December 2008

Like 530i said; your HVAC problem is the FSU. It's a dead easy DIY. As for the wipers, bsst case is a loose nut in the linkage. Worst case is that the wiper gearbox-or "wiper console" as BMW calls it-is DOA. The part lists for @$240. As for the cam sensors, you got me. They DO fail, but not nearly as often as they have in your case. Have you joined the BMW Car Club yet? You'll find many shops offer BMW CCA part and/or labor discounts and you'll have access to club technical advisors as well.

drenthe · December 2008

Thank you for this info. I have the same problem with my 2001 525iT. When I bought mine the previous owner told me that he had just replaced the fan unit at the tune of $700.00. Reading this, he may have been taken for a ride.
When you say dead easy DIY, where do I find the unit and is there any info (web site?) that explains the installation procedure?

Thanks,
Jan
PS Same for the rear windshield wiper, I can't find any info about how to replace the arm.

roadburner · December 2008

Here's an excellent final stage unit DIY.
I've never had to deal with a rear wiper on a touring; perhaps this parts diagram will be of some help.

joeb13 · December 2008

I am currently looking to purchase a 05 or 06 5 series, either the 6or 8 cyl. I am wondering about the reliability of the cars and I'm looking for any and all experiences, opinions, and imput.

my545 · December 2008

i have 2005 545i its making a whinng noise from the tranny .and sometimes delayed shifting between 1 and 2 gear ,

my545 · December 2008

i have a 2005 545i its one of the best cars ihave every had

gardis · December 2008

Guys,
has there been any technical issues with navigation? Im looking at a CPO 2007 530i (29K miles) that has nav, and all the packages (sports, premium, cold, and one more can't remember) car is beautiful asking $34,900 for it, with negotation some wiggle room. I just want to be sure I'm not looking for a problem with the navigation which I don't even care about, but the vehicle has it. Car is really loaded, would hate to pass it up.

Also another one 2007 530xi, 18K miles, warranty expires Apr 2014. Asking $36,900 dealer won't budge. That's another 2 grand, but warranty goes longer. Am torn, don't know what to do. I'm leaning toward the $34,900 one, has more. Dealer says his 530xi is competitive in price. I could care less about all wheel drive.
That extended warranty is tempting however.

Any advice?

zapatista2000 · January 2009

Hello all,

Living in Germany, I just bought a 1996 520i Touring with 200,000 kilometers (German specs). It's idling at 1,000 rpm, hovering over 4,000 rpm at 35 mph in third gear, and redlining just above 6,000 rpm in fifth at 80mph. But, it's not running hot and it doesn't feel or sound like the engine is straining. The fuel gauge is broken (reading empty at all times) but the speedometer and temperature gauges seem to be operating normally. This is my first BMW (when in Germany....) so I'm not sure if they typically run at higher rpms, if maybe the tachometer is malfunctioning, if there's some kind of "adjustment" I can make, or if it's simply a mechanical problem. It's getting a tune-up in a couple of weeks, but should I be concerned about driving it on the autobahn until then?

Any comments are greatly appreciated!

andys120 · January 2009

Are you saying your car will redline in fifth @ 80mph? That seems odd, I don't know if your 520iT is a four or a six but I wouldn't recommend spending a lot of time on the Autobahn cruising at redline. BMW engines will run smoothly at high rpms but aren't designed to cruise @ redline AFAIK.

Other than that the rev ranges you're quoting are similar to what I get w my '00 528iA except for idle speed which sounds a tick high. How's your gas mileage?

I'm sure the guy who does your tune-up can help you sort it out.

zapatista2000 · January 2009

Hey, thanks for the reply.

Yep, it's a 2.0 six cylinder and it redlines in fifth at 80mph. At least that's what the tach is telling me. I'll keep it under 80 until I sort this out, but that kinda defeats the purpose of having bought it in the first place.

Today was my first day driving it so I can't speak to the gas mileage yet...plus the inop fuel gauge is going to make that calculation a bit dicey.

My only concern with the tune-up is the dealer who sold it to me is performing the service. It's a condition of the limited warranty I get (free labor, pay for parts--which are pretty cheap and plentiful in Bavaria). I'm hopeful they'll take care of it, but I wanted to fish for red flags, silver bullets, and general thoughts before engaging the dealer.

Thanks again for your comments.

andys120 · January 2009

it redlines in fifth at 80mph

That can't be right, BMWs are made to cruise at high speeds. In fact very few cars will reach redline in top gear at all, they're usually geared so that you can only hit redline in the lower gears and are actually faster in fourth than they are in fifth (5-speed trannies).

My 528iA ('00 E39) is doing about 3000rpm @ 80mph in fifth (5sp-Steptronic). I think I'd have to go down to second to redline it at 80.

Now you've piqued my curiosity. Let us know what they say.

Mr_Shiftright · January 2009

Makes no sense. Your engine would sound like the bats of hell at 6000 rpm. You couldn't even carry on a conversation at that level of mayhem. Tach must be busted.

zapatista2000 · January 2009

Thanks again, guys. Yeah, it does not sound or feel like it's running at high rpms. I'm hoping it' just the gauge.

It might be moot at this point--I drove it in to work for the first time today and after I parked, it wouldn't shut off and the steering wheel locked up. I turned the key back and forth without "catching" anything and it just wouldn't shut off. After about 10 minutes of pushing, pulling, turning the key, I sat there unsure of what to do. Then, for no apparant reason, it shut off on its own. Now when I turn the key, it doesn't engage the ignition and it won't start. Sounds like there's a whole lot of bad something going on with the entire steering column and dash.

The dealer's 300 kilometers away, but I'm going to try today to get them to come put it on a truck, take it in and fix whatever's going on.....or refund my money and I'll start over again. I'll let you know how it turns out......

gardis · January 2009

Hi guys,
I have a 1996 328i, 106K miles, yesterday I was driving and had problem with the driver's power window. It sounded like it was breaking the glass and wouldn't bring the window back up. I was able to coax it up to about 2" from the top, and left it alone. I drove it to BMW dealer this morning with no appt. They told me it would probably be the window regulator, figure about $375 for it. I also told them to go ahead and do an oil change since I hadn't had one since last svc which was exactly one year ago. Haven't spent a dime on the car since last year.
They told me they probably wouldn't even look at the car until late today, possibly even Tuesday.

Within one hour of arriving at work (they gave me a ride) they called me. Yup, window regulator, $375, oil change $160, had a break lite out, they replaced bulb.
I thought that was pretty good service.

Just my luck, I'm searching for another CPO, and I'm within weeks probably of getting one. Here I had to spend this money, but you know what, I couldn't go to a dealer and trade in a car with an inactive power window, now could I. As it is, they're going to give me nothing for the car probably, I'll be lucky if they give me $500 for it.

I always use BMW for oil changes. Valvoline confuses me, tries to upsell me on stuff I dont' understand (synthetic oil, etc, is that OK to use? I don't have a clue). I figure take it to BMW, it's their vehicle, they know exactly what to do. So it costs me double. I have peace of mind, and that's priceless to me.

Mr_Shiftright · January 2009

Yeah that's expensive but at least they probably won't strip out the oil pan plug, forget to put oil in, or use oil filters from Sri Lanka.

shipo · January 2009

Regarding your oil, yes, you MUST use synthetic oil in your engine. That said, just because any given oil is "Synthetic", that does NOT mean that it is good enough to run in your car. The oil that gets put into your car should meet the BMW LongLife-01 oil specification, and the only oils available here in the States that are generally available are as follows:

- - BMW 5W-30 (typically available only from the dealer
- - Mobil 1 0W-40 (typically available at AutoZone, WalMart, and NAPA)
- - Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (often available at AutoZone, however, you may need to order it)

Valvoline oils (since you mentioned using them for oil changes):
- - Valvoline Synpower 5W-30 MST (I've never found this in any store)
- - Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 HST (I've never found this in any store)

Since you are inclined to use the dealer for your service, the above may be useless information; however, if you ever find yourself needing an oil change and your dealer isn't convenient, then you're good to go.

Best regards,
Shipo

roadburner · January 2009

$160 is outrageous for just an oil change. The oil and filter cost less than $60 retail. You are right to avoid Valvoline(and any other quicky lube joints- I've seen/heard way too many horror stories), but a good independent BMW tech should do the work for 20%-30% less. I'd also recommend joining the BMW Car Club, as most dealers and indie shops offer significant discounts to members.

gardis · January 2009

Thank you guys for that advice. Shipo, I always use the dealer, so I don't have to worry about it. But I made a note of those specs for future reference just in case.
Really appreciate it. Thanks so much.

jayrider · January 2009

Now all the windows work and the light is fixed and the oil is changed. Not bad at all for a years worth of maintenance/repairs on a 96 with 100+k miles. You should be able to get 2500- 4500 for your car retail.Price depends on condition and how it runs. The question is how clean is it? Ripped seats? Stains? Grungy carpet? Dings, dents. scratches? Year old lobster roll wrapper under back seat? You should get a lot of interest in that price range -- especially if you have it detailed. The dealer will wholesale it out so what you need to do is take it to a used car dealer and see if he will take it to auction for you. You get the auction price minus fees. Should be better than the dealer in trade but who knows. Put an ad in the paper and see what happens or drive it for a few months to get that fresh oil circulated. Number one factor is how clean is your machine.

jrzdvl · January 2009

I am a first timer here, so please be gentle. I have a 2000 528 which, while a great car, has an occasional quirk or two. My wife was driving the car the other day when all the instruments went out. She said nothing on the panel was working, gas gauge, tach, speedo, all lights, etc. The only thing working was the lighted "D", the transmission indicator. The car was working normally, however. The problem is, the next time I got in the car, everything worked fine. Any ideas on what might cause that condition, other than the wife, of course?

andys120 · January 2009

You've probably got a short somewhere in the instrument wiring, I'd follow Roadburner's advice and take it to a good indie BMW garage. I doubt it's anything serious

gardis · January 2009

Guys,
Pursuant to my above servicing, I have been having also a problem with the ABS light illuminating on the dash whilst driving. I told the BMW tech about it. They took the car out for a test drive before working on it, and noticed nothing wrong. Then when the car was done, they took it out for a second test drive (seems like a lot for just an oil change and power window regulator repair, doesn't it?) and then they did notice the light. The light I'm referring to is a circle with a triangle inside. All of a sudden, it will illuminate while I"m driving.
I don't know why.

They told me make another appt. and bring the car in, they couldn't address the issue today.

Any ideas what that could be? The total of the above job, btw, was $639.00 Not cheap by any means, but again, that's all I spent on that car in the past 12 months.

Jayrider, thanks that sound advice. I hesitate to sell it personally, because I don't like the idea of surrendering my identity to someone. If something goes wrong with the car, I don't want them showing up at my doorstep over it, you know what I mean? What do you think I could get as a trade in on a CPO?

andys120 · January 2009

The circle/triangle emblem indicates that the traction control system has activated momentarily --if it stays on that means that a wheel speed sensor is faulty. The wheel speed sensors control both the ABS and Traction Control. I've found that a WSS problem will trigger the TC light first and before long the letters "ABS"
will also appear in yellow. Replacing the Sensor will add another $100 or so to your tab, less if it's merely dirty.

ny540i6 · January 2009

Not to do with your post, except tangentially... but I sometimes wish I could join the "low mileage club.". How do you only have 100K on a '96? My '03 5er is running with 140K (or so - can't be sure, because I'm travelling), and it is not the only car I drive. I will admit that I love driving the thing, and will drive on trips where others might fly or take the train, such as NYC/Boston, or NYC/Maryland, but still.
Tell me, are the other 5s out there low in mileage too?

roadburner · January 2009

Tell me, are the other 5s out there low in mileage too?

I'm thinking about picking up a 2003 540i 6M Sport with 76,000 miles on it. It looks brand new.

andys120 · January 2009

The Blue Max, my '00 528iA, has just over 109,000 miles on it, that works out to just over 11k per year, great car!

530ir1150r · January 2009

I had a problem with the brake dash lights on my 2002 530i two tears ago at 80k miles. It was the brake light switch (part number 61316967601, $17.70; 0.8 hours labor, $62.40).

roadburner · January 2009

The problem could also be caused by a low battery or a faulty ignition switch.

jayrider · January 2009

Trade in should be at least 2k unless it's a mess. If you have had it serviced at the dealer you buy cpo from they should be reasonable since you patronized their service dept. over the years. Of course your payments on the used beemer will certainly be well north of $600 for 60 months. You could save some money moving to a 3 series. Plenty of car for just you.

gardis · January 2009

Jayrider,
Actually, I want a 5 series. 3 series is too small. I am the family driver, so I often have more than myself. We're just a little cramped in the 3. Actually the CPO 3's are only about $3K less in price than the 5 i'm looking at.

Again, if I get one, it's a purchase, not a lease. I hope I can get the $2,000 for it. Unfortunately, the dealer who fixes it is not the one with the 5 series I want.

to NY540: I bought the car in 1999 CPO with 33K miles on it. I put about 6K miles per year on it only. I work for a company that provides "transit cheks" (if you live inthe NYC area, you know what that is) so why should I drive when they pay for my commute? But I love to drive and I can't wait to try out a 530i. I've never driven a 5 series.

jayrider · January 2009

Try to be objective, Gardis, when people see you getting out of your car do they comment on what great shape it's in or does nobody notice? I ask because there is always a market for a clean well maintained 5 series especially a 96 with low miles. I had my chrysler detailed before I got rid of it and it was like riding in a new car for a while. Unless you have body damage your car can be made to look super for $1-200 and you will enjoy it until you trade it in. It will help your trade value as well.

jrzdvl · January 2009

Roadburner,
The battery thing you mention is a possibility, the battery was almost dead a few weeks ago. No previous signs, then just wouldn't turn the engine one morning. I charged it up and it has been fine since. But maybe it isn't fine. The car is now 8 years old, about 69K, the battery probably original. Eight years is probably near the end of battery life, isn't it? But I am worried that something may be draining it without any signs. Thanks for the tip.

roadburner · January 2009

If your car has the original BMW battery it is certainly near or at the end of its lifespan. A bad battery can cause all sorts of strange behavior in a modern BMW. Take it to your mechanic-orAutozone-and have it load tested. If you need a new battery, I'd suggest an Interstate Megatron.

andys120 · January 2009

A bad battery can cause all sorts of strange behavior in a modern BMW.

I can tell you from experience that a bad battery can cause weird things in any modern car. I had a similar issue to those in a '91 Taurus SHO that were caused by a bad battery.

gardis · January 2009

Guys,
My 1996 328i had the original battery in it until 2007 when I had to replace it. That's a pretty good life for a battery woudln't you say. Cost me $300 at the dealer, I know you think I'm NUTS, but peace of mind, I told you, I'm willing to pay for it.

One thing that doesn't work anymore, though, is the moonroof. About two years ago, it would not close. So I took it to the dealer and they told me major job and major money to fix it. Needed a new carriage or something like that, around $1300. I said just shut it and disable the switch. To this day, it doesn't work.

That's what I notice about these BMW.s'. The engine is just as full of pep and vim and vigor as it was when I bought it CPO in 1999. It's incredible. That engine has never failed me. But the peripheral stuff goes on the vehicle. The brake light because the housing has something wrong. The ABS light coming on. The moonroof. Power window this week. But the car is 12 years old, so I cannot get upset about it. Let's face it. But I cannot envision myself driving a Lexus, or anything but a BMW. Nothing excites me like a BMW. I get choked up thinking about trading it in, but I know that eventually I have to. It's 12 years old, going on 13.
LOL. You must think I'm nuts.

jayrider · January 2009

Go drive an 08 certified cadillac cts --- awsome sedan great warranty-- rwd rates right up there with 2006 cpo bmw for 20k less. No disrespect to bmw -- just a thought in tough economic times.

shipo · January 2009

I have to disagree, I've driven two and the CTS is no where near any 3-Series ever built in terms of overall driving pleasure. If money is tight and a 3-Series is out of reach, then an Infinity G is probably the only real RWD alternative, IMHO.

Best regards,
Shipo

jayrider · January 2009

I was referring to the 5 series. Your views are consistent with many car enthusiasts. There are others who would give the cts excellent reviews and for value -- a low mileage certified 08 cts can be had for the low to mid $20's and a comparable 5 series would be 20k more -- a test drive might be worthwhile. To each his own --- If money is no object --- the bmw would be an easy choice. The infinity you mentioned sounds great as well. Won't be in the market for 2.5 years but will definitely test drive a bmw -- you never know.

gardis · January 2009

Jayrider,
All due respect to you, you sound like a knowledgeable person, but I looked at the CTS just by chance in Greenwich CT, the price of new is mid $40's to upper $40's.
A certified cannot possibly be in the mid $20's, that would place it along with the Audi 4 pre owned models. The CTS is an expensive vehicle. It looks spectacular, btw, but Caddy unfortunately has a reputation of being a vehicle for older people. Cannot remotely compare to the sportiness of a BMW 5 series. Though I loved the look of it, I have to admit.

jayrider · January 2009

Check out cars.com. Get to 08's certified and there are cts's certified in the low to mid 20's. But if it's not you , it's not you. Just a thought.

jayrider · January 2009

A euro import I did drive was a saab 9-3 which was impressive and new 08's can be bought for mid-20's -- no more for me on this subject good luck.

andys120 · January 2009

Nothing excites me like a BMW. I get choked up thinking about trading it in, but I know that eventually I have to. It's 12 years old, going on 13.
LOL. You must think I'm nuts.

I don't think you're nuts for loving your old Bimmer, I'm keeping a 9 y/o 528iA and I love it too. I do think you're nuts to pay the stealer prices to keep it on the road. You could probably get that moonroof fixed at half what the dealer wants if you went to any competent auto body shop.

Like Roadburner and Shipo I've had excellent luck and enjoyed decent repair costs by going to an independent local BMW specialist not currently affiliated w a dealer.

BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles