Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

1434446484954

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you might take a guess and buy a new cap, although really it could be a leak somewhere in the evaporative emissions system. You might poke around in the trunk and look for loose vacuum lines, (not sure what's in there exactly) also at the evaporative emissions canister. The dealer has a tester for this sort of thing but they're going to nick you for an hour's labor at least I betcha.
  • troyrtroyr Member Posts: 3
    My automatic 1998 540 i might have some transmission problems.....every time i put the car in drive you can hear it accelerate but it wont go in gear, however if i put it in reverse it goes into reverse perfectly.....then theres also the check engine light that also popped out.....does anybody know if the problem is linked, and also does any body know for sure if i have transmission problems?
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Your best bet is to take the car too a good dealer or independent MW tech. The automatics are just about impossible to "shade tree" diagnose

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • buffnyce17buffnyce17 Member Posts: 2
    hi there!! I actually have the same problem on my 2001 504i... please share with me how you fix the problem....THANK YOU SO MUCH
  • buffnyce17buffnyce17 Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 540i 2001 from a private party...great car. However the company that I hired to tint the windows left the doors open while they worked on the tint which in turn caused the battery to go dead....and I guess they had to "jump-start" it. After I was driving away, I noticed that my on-board computer, fuel gauge and tachometer are not working. Could this be related to the battery being low....or might it be something else. Thank you to whom ever can give me a little peace of mind. THANK YOU SO MUCH
  • x021627x021627 Member Posts: 152
    Thanks. Should have mentioned it is a 2008 538xi and under warranty. Unfortunately a Tahoe backed into me while I was sitting in my car, in a parking space and got some damage to the left side bumper. My car is currently being repaired. I asked the body shop (BMW certified one) to check it while it is there. Will report back as to whether there is a real issue or if the computer didn't reset after I rescrewed the gas cap.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    For over a decade, BMWs have been designed so that the dome light shuts off if the door is left open over @15 minutes. That said, the electrical problems you are experiencing are almost certainly being caused by a low-and likely dead-battery. Have the battery charged and load tested. If it is bad, replace it with an Interstate MTP-93; you should be able to find one for under $140, easy.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • gardisgardis Member Posts: 185
    Guys,
    I just noticed a slight shaking in my 1996 328i (109K miles) at speeds between 20-35mph. At higher speeds, goes away. I always maintained the car with the dealership, I cannot imagine what this is except: I need new tires on the rear set.
    Do you think this could be the cause. The tread (Toyos) is down to the minimum, but I want to trade the car in, but I want to resolve this issue first.

    Any suggestions are welcome. Should I have it evaluated at the dealership?
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    Badly worn tires can cause all sorts of problems like this as they get out of round and perhaps lose balance weights. I don't recommend going to the dealer for something simple like this, try an independent BMW specialist or a tire and alignment
    specialst, you'll save big over what the dealerships charge.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • x021627x021627 Member Posts: 152
    Just to tie off this thing, the check engine light turned out to be an issue with the emission system, so you may have been correct. Once that issue was resolved, the check engine light wouldn't go out and it was determined that my computer needed to be reprogrammed.

    Reprogram didn't take and now they are replacing computer module. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR :mad:
  • gardisgardis Member Posts: 185
    Thank you, really appreciate the advice.
    Pursuant to above post, I also have my 'check engine light' now for weeks it won't go off (another issue!) I thought it was the gas cap, but I've taken it off and put it back on several times. I think I'm due for an emissions check does that have anything to do?

    What could it be, the engine runs perfectly.
  • x021627x021627 Member Posts: 152
    My engine ran perfectly also and I took off and replaced the gas cap several times to no avail. it was an emissions issue according to deal that was fixed and then turned into a computer module issue.

    Good luck....
  • gardisgardis Member Posts: 185
    Did you use the dealer to resolve? How much did it cost, was it an involved thing?

    Thanks for your input. Appreciated.
  • x021627x021627 Member Posts: 152
    I only have 16K mile son my 2008 528xi, so it is covered under warranty. The computer module itself is a $1500 part w/o the labor. Your issue should probably be coverd under warranty depending on your mileage/age of vehicle.

    Yes, the dealer is resolving the issue after the failed reprogramming, which I am sure they tried twice.

    Hope your issue is less involved. Between the holiday and the wait time for ordering the part, this is taking a week.

    Good Luck!
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    The OBDII system will light the CEL for all sorts of minor issues that don't affect the engine: I've had it come on when there's dirt in the Mass Air Sensor and when there's a leak in the Evaporative Emissions System.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • mhutchinsonmhutchinson Member Posts: 17
    Do you happen to know how to remove the evacuator/dryer on the 540i, 1998 version? It is just below and behind the passenger headlight. Do I remove it from underneath or above? I see the round plate on top of it and the three anchoring screws. One is hard to reach with an allen wrench. Must I remove the headlight?
    I can't determine how to access it from the underneath.
  • mhutchinsonmhutchinson Member Posts: 17
    Who knows how to replace the evacuator/dryer? It is located just behind and below the passenger headlight. Do you have any other insights: warnings, online manuals available, etc.? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Removing And Installing/Replacing Drier Flask For Air Conditioner

    NOTE:
    A/C system is drawn off.
    Notes On Replacing Drier Bottle Or Drier Insert

    The drier bottle or drier insert does not have to be replaced at regular service intervals in a functioning, leakproof A/C system.

    However, the drier bottle or drier insert must be replaced without fail in the event of:

    * fouling of the refrigerant by filings/shavings (e.g. when the compressor is clamped)
    * a leaking A/C system or loss of refrigerant
    * the refrigerant circuit being opened for a period exceeding 24 hours , e.g. during repair work.

    Follow instructions for dryer bottle replacement.

    Remove complete right headlight.
    Remove holder for headlight mounting.Unfasten screws.

    NOTE: Pull pressure and intake pipes upwards and fit with plugs if A/C system remains open for longer than one hour.

    Installation:
    Replace sealing rings.Unfasten screws and pull drier flask upwards to remove.
  • mhutchinsonmhutchinson Member Posts: 17
    Thank You! I just got to the dryer bottle and it is larger than the replacement offered by O'Reilly Auto Parts. Soooo....since I have not opened the system yet, and the refrigerant is not lost, I will need to ensure the compressor did not send shavings into the lines.

    Background: I am replacing the compressor as it began knocking and recently it became loud enough to hear it inside the car driving down the highway with the windows closed.

    New Problem: I was told there is no in-line filter screen as is found on many US systems. Is this correct? If so, how would I check for or debris/shavings from the compressor except to examine the inside of the lines where I disconnect them from the compressor?

    Looking fwd to your response.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah you're sort of doomed if you do, doomed if you don't. Generally, you wouldn't get debris unless you seize the compressor but since it was knocking, one has to wonder. You'll have to open the system to remove the dryer or replace the compressor anyway. I'd wash out the AC lines as best one can and see if there is any debris in there. If you see lots of debris, your job isn't over. You have to clean the whole damn system and replace the expansion valve as well.
  • mhutchinsonmhutchinson Member Posts: 17
    I pulled the belt. The compressor is turning fine by hand. No squeaks, no drag, no serious play in the shaft.
    Wash out the lines. I've never done that before.
    I'm guessing you remove the lines from the car and run [what] through them? How do you dry them out again?
    Thanks again Mr. S.

    The refurbished compressor contains 1.5 oz. of ICE32 oil. I have not lost any oil. Do I need to add any?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you could blow them dry with air. I cleaned mine in a solvent tank---that might have been a bad idea, I don't know, but it worked. Maybe you could just use air at first to see if anything comes out?

    I'm not an expert on AC and due to chance of injury etc, I'm not keen on advising you on a casual basis. :shades:
  • mhutchinsonmhutchinson Member Posts: 17
    Got it. I appreciate the risk of injury using compressed air. I will wear eye protection.
    I plan to blow air through the high side line toward the dryer (disconnected of course) into a cloth rag and inspect it for particles.

    What about the oil capacity? Any idea whether the 1.5 oz. pre-charge will be adequate? I can't find the specs online and I haven't purchased a manual yet (although I will probably do so real soon). Found a used Bentley brand at Amazon.com for $107.
    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh no I meant injury from pressurizing and depressurizing the AC. I assume you're smart enough not to poke yourself in the eye with an air nozzle--LOL!

    * The oil should be replaced whenever a ruptured component is replaced, because the quick discharge causes some of the oil to be released along with the refrigerant
    * Use only PAG oil in an R-134a system (not mineral oil)
    * Use only mineral oil in an R-12 system (not PAG oil).
    * Add the right amount of oil into the system when replacing a major component such as the compressor; condenser, or evaporator.
    * When replacing the compressor; drain the oil from the old compressor and measure the amount. Turning the clutch plate by hand helps "pump" out any remaining oil. Inject an equal amount of fresh oil. Note: service compressors are shipped full of oil; this oil must be drained before the new compressor is installed.
    * When replacing the condenser or evaporator, add 2 oz. of oil to the system.
    * When replacing a receiver/dryer, add 1 oz. of oil to the system.
    * You do not need to add any oil when replacing a hose, since hoses do not collect much oil.
    * Oil can be added to a charged system using the Robinair 18065 oil injector and a manifold gauge set, or the injector bottle on the ACR4 unit.

    Now those figures are not "total fill capacity", which I guess is for a total overhaul of everything.

    Those specs are:

    Nippondenso 160 ML +/- 15 ML
    Seiko 180 ML +/- 20 ML

    So I guess what this is saying is that you still need to know the capacity of the compressor and then add extra if you replace the dryer or the evaporator, right?

    The total fill specs seem to indicate something like 5 or 6 oz. I think an ounce is about 30 ML

    Funny German names in there, huh? :P

    PS: Watch out---from 9/98 build date, you have different refrigerant capacities than prior to 9/98.

    Minimum Charging Pressure is 10 BAR
  • mrfinaglemrfinagle Member Posts: 20
    great idea to change trans and differential fluid every other yr.

    full synthetic does not have naturally occurring aromatic hydrocarbons and other compounds which cause sludge like dyno oil, so I would stick with that, although topping off with dyno between changes is fine. Amsoil is not snake oil, its a great oil if a) you can afford it, b) you change your filter every 5k but not the oil, and c) test the oil for breakdown around 10k to decide whether to change it. I'd rather buy Q from wally world and change both every 5k.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    I had the CEL switch on in The Blue Max, my '00 528iA. They checked the codes and it came back as a fault in the Evaporative Emissions System. They checked it out at the indie shop I go to and found that rodents had eaten away at the hoses connecting the gas tank to the charcoal canister, cost to repair (mostly labor @ $90/hr)=$190.

    I don't know whether to laugh or cry. I had to replace rodent damage to a previous car when they chewed on the A/C wiring ($700!) in the fender and have taken several anti-rodent measures including D-Con packs and moth (camphor) cakes under the hood.

    I don't mind those chipmunks running a Club Med for rodents on my property but this *&#@ has got to stop. :mad:

    Any ideas. :confuse: :sick:

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    All I can say is that for some reason, rodents prefer German wiring and hoses. Is this a sinister plot by German parts manufacturers?

    As for discouraging the little buggers, I think trapping them or that sticky paper stuff might decrease the surplus population. But an all out cure? Probably not possible unless you rodent-proof your garage, which isn't easy unless it's all concrete.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    As for discouraging the little buggers, I think trapping them or that sticky paper stuff might decrease the surplus population. But an all out cure? Probably not possible unless you rodent-proof your garage, which isn't easy unless it's all concrete.

    We have a couple of outdoor cats and we have had zero rodent problems since they arrived.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • galamagalama Member Posts: 12
    I have 2002 530i stick and my alarm is going off on its own i had this problem with many cars i owned don't know why me. I dont think i have aftermarket alarm im sure its factory unit. Did anyone have any similar problems liek me.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    I have 2002 530i stick and my alarm is going off on its own i had this problem with many cars i owned don't know why me. I dont think i have aftermarket alarm im sure its factory unit. Did anyone have any similar problems like me

    I've had similar problems w my E39 and other cars. They occurred because the motion detectors are VERY sensitive and can be triggered by falling leaves or even a gut of wind especially if the sunroof is left open. If you don't believe me try dropping a pencil thru the open sunroof after locking the doors.

    The cure is simple, the motion detector can be disabled by a second push of the lock button (after the first push to lock the doors) on the remote.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    after switching off my '00 528iA. I called my Indie Bimmer techs, without seeing it they guess it's probably the tumblers in the lock which can be replaced.

    Anybody ever have this problem on any car?

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • ron2hoffron2hoff Member Posts: 2
    BWM refuses to acknowledge that their rims are defective and crack as a result of normal driving, especially their 18 inch rims when coupled with run-flat tires. We have a 2006 530i with standard 18-inch alloy rims and run-flat tires that came on the car. The car is driven 90% on Los Angeles freeways, and the other 10% on well-paved local roads. The car has never taken off road or driven on a particularly bumpy/potholed roads. Nor do we take speed bumps at 40 mph, run over curbs, or not slow for a pothole . . . events that might possibly crack a rim or break a tire. I tell you all this because BMW’s excuse for not replacing 2 cracked rims was that the cracks must have been caused by the driver impacting some object, like a pothole, rather then a result of a defect in the design of the rim. In the past several years we have owned 3 BMWs . . . but this will be our last.

    After reading all of the threads on many websites about BMW’s problems with these rims and run-flat tires, it became quite clear what the problem is. The rims were designed too weak to take the impact of normal on-road driving. The problem is exacerbated by the run-flat tires, which are very hard and have strong sidewalls resulting in too much of the normal road force from small bumps being transmitted to the rim rather then absorbing some of the shock in the tire. Confirming the hundreds of comments on reliable Internet sites about the faulty rims and too hard run-flat tires is the reviews of Bridgestone Potenza RE050A Run Flat tires on cites from every supplier of these tires. In general, the comments conclude that the combination of weak 18-inch rims and 245/R40/18 Bridgestone Potenza RE050A Run Flat tires (original equipment) was a very bad mistake by BMW. One comment, similar to most, says: “These tires are terrible! Harsh ride, noisy and prone to impact bubble in the side walls from hitting small potholes. . . I am going to switch to non run flats . . . What was BMW thinking when [they] picked these tires?” [http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/readReviewsTire.do?postalCodeSelected=90291&ra- =%2Ftires%2Fbridgestone%2Fsize%2FviewProductResults&pc=25428&ar=40&rd=18&cs=245]-

    We asked the Service Manager at Santa Monica BMW to replace the rims under warranty. Not only was he rude, but he was uninterested in any discussion about comments on many websites about the defective rims. It seemed apparent to me that he had been through this problem all too often before and did not want to deal with it again.

    I then called BMW NA Customer Service. They were very nice, but totally useless. After four phone calls and escalation to a customer service supervisor, I began to understand the way it works. Customer Service has no authority whatsoever, all they could do was call the Service Manager at the dealership and get the same answer you had already had gotten. They seem to be in business of playing “good guy” to take the heat off of the Service Manager by providing the same answer as if it came from an independent, higher authority at BMW, which it does not.

    Not willing to accept the result, I contacted the Director of Parts and Service at Santa Monica BMW, and told him of our displeasure with how his Service Manager had handled the problem, and asked him to involve BMW NA regional “team” to evaluate the problem and try to get some help. To his credit, he seemed very professional and appeared to want to help. He clearly understood the problem . . . you should be able to drive a BMW on normal streets and not have the rims break. Next day, he got a response from BMW regional team . . . “they would not participate” . . . meaning they would not cover it under the warranty or assist the dealer in any way.

    My next step is to contact the General Manager of BMW Santa Monica and alert him to the problem. We certainly won’t be buying any more cars at Santa Monica BMW so he loses a loyal customer because the service folks won’t handle this problem. No response from the GM of Santa Monica BMW after two calls.

    Next step is a letter to the CEO of BMW North America, and a compliant with U.S. DOT about the situation with these failing rim/tire combination. Perhaps DOT will investigate.
  • markhotopmarkhotop Member Posts: 1
    I have a BMW 528 with nearly 180K on it. It has recently started to make funny noises when turning. The noise only happens when it's cold, once the car worms up it stops.

    There are some vibrations along with the noise, but the car steers OK. Could this be a belt? I've had the car serviced, and the mechanic could not repeat the problem - but said every checked out fine.

    Any ideas what this might be?
  • phampham Member Posts: 6
    When I got my brand new BMW 535 2006 model from a dealer, the "front" car didn't have a place to hang the license plate. The dealer told me "if the front car doesn't have the place to hold the license plate, then it doesn't require by law. If the car does have the place to hold the license plate in the front, then the law requires to have the front license plate." Recently I got a ticket at SFO, I told the policeman the same thing, however he still gave me the ticket because missing the front license plate.
    At that time, I pointed out many luxury cars (mercedes, BMW and more) at SFO and they didn't have the front license plate because no front license plate holder. The policeman got confused but he doesn't want to recall the ticket.

    What is a CA law about the front license plate requirement? If there is no exception, then how can I contact BMW to handle this issue? because their design.

    If the BMW dealer told me about the front license plate for my car is true, then where should I get the statement or something to show it to the police in case the policeman stop me again in the future.

    Thanks in advances.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's two plates and that's it. There's no exceptions I'm aware of, and yes, you have to drill holes into your brand new bumper or get some special plate holder (I've seen these for different fancy cars). California DMV sends everyone two plates.

    If the cop had been in a good mood, he would have given you a "fix-it" ticket rather than a traffic violation.

    Maybe your dealer should pay the fine for bad advice.

    I suspect this is just part of the revenue-gathering going on now. This type of ticket has long been the "sucker punch" for motorists parked in public places.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,175
    Not only that.. every 5-series is available with a license plate bracket... Just because yours wasn't installed won't get you out of a ticket..

    Or.. move to Kentucky! No front plates! :P

    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    . move to Kentucky! No front plates!

    No need to go that far, Arizona has no front plates either. ;)

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    If the cop had been in a good mood, he would have given you a "fix-it" ticket rather than a traffic violation.

    I once got one of those in NH because my plate mount had been knocked off by a careless parker.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Plate violations at airports are the new "quickie tax". :cry:
  • kevin530kevin530 Member Posts: 25
    No end to the political correctness.
    Plus a revenue stream for already bloated budgets and bennies.
    Never seen so many cops looking to give tickets since this recession started.
  • ghuletghulet Member Posts: 2,564
    .....in my constant quest to find a beater that is not an Escort or Corsica, I'm going to look at a 528e tomorrow ('88, automatic, 151k miles, allegedly owned by a mechanic, new brakes and battery). Yeah, I already know they're slow; this is basically going to be a 'run around town and possibly visit mom once in a while' (second car). This one looks OK for the price, and supposedly runs great. Anything endemic to these I need to know about? Owner supposedly has all books and records, which I like a lot. Thanks!!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,175
    What is the price?

    Not that it matters... An '88 BMW is pretty maintenance intensive.. that's what all your money is going to go for... Even for a second car, figure $100/mo, if nothing big breaks....

    Personally, I wouldn't get an automatic in an old BMW..

    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Anything endemic to these I need to know about?

    The E28(1982-1988) 5ers are very nice cars but, as kyfdx pointed out, they are getting a bit long in the tooth. Still, you can usually get at least 300,000 miles out of a well maintained car. The 1988 528e had the so-called "Super eta" motors, which have a wee bit more horsepower and a higher redline than the 1982-1987 eta motors. The eta motors were designed for fuel economy and low speed torque, and they operate at relatively(for a BMW) low engine speeds. The autobox is well suited to a super eta car. As for negatives, the engine has a timing belt which MUST be changed every four years/50,000 miles. The motor also requires a valve adjustment every 15,000 miles(a very simple job). I'd definitely have the car examined by a knowledgeable BMW tech.
    As for running costs, a lot will depend on your willingness to perform minor maintenance/repairs and the proximity of a good dealer or indie BMW tech. If it was my car, I'd change the engine oil every 5,000 miles, the aforementioned valve adjustment at 15,000 miles, the plugs/filters/ATF/final drive oil every 30,000 miles, the coolant every two years, and the brake fluid annually.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • ghuletghulet Member Posts: 2,564
    ....thanks for the advice!
  • timgrifftimgriff Member Posts: 6
    Have your muffler get checked. I had the same noise problem, and I ignored it. Then one day, my muffler fell out. This happened to my civic, but I am sure it is similar.
  • bmwgal3bmwgal3 Member Posts: 15
    I just got a fix-it ticket for not having a front license plate while parked in the Park-n-Ride in Woodside, CA. Carpooling to save the environment, right... So I called BMW Mountain View, my service advisor quoted me $300 to put on a license plate frame and have it painted to match the car (black). So I called Sterling BMW in Newport Beach, where I'd bought the car, and they mailed me a black plastic one for free. I brought it in to Mountain View and they installed it as a courtesy, took 2 minutes. Cost of ticket was $77, including the late fee...they want payment right away and don't give you time to shop around for a frame. Still, I saved $300.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,368
    IMO the dealer who sold you the car ought to pay the ticket for not putting it on when you picked up the car as is normal in two-plate venues.

    Cali must be desperate for revenue, around here that'a fix-it-in-ten-days-or-pay ticket.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • kennyyukennyyu Member Posts: 16
    this is a great car and i love it and so i like to keep everything in this car to work properly. does anybody in this forum know how much it will cost to get a master key and also to get the rechargable flash light to work. thanks a bunch. e39 rules!!!!
  • rohandravidrohandravid Member Posts: 4
    Hi,

    Thanks for your reply, I was wondering if you remember how much it cost for you to pay for the drive belt repair. I have a 2002 530i, 62K miles. I got them do a free inspection, they said that I need to get the drive belt changed for 210$ and Rear Stabilizer link for 272$ (including tax,labor and parts).

    Thanks
    Prasanna
  • rohandravidrohandravid Member Posts: 4
    Can some one tell me what would it cost to get the drive belt and real stabilizer for 530i BMW (including labor/tax/parts)

    Thanks
Sign In or Register to comment.