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DOES IT MATTER?
You may never achieve high speeds like this at home but all new car and truck tires sold in the United States have speed ratings on them. A tire's ability to deal with high speeds doesn't necessarily increase it's handling and braking but generally there is a correlation--so if you're looking for a higher performance tire, look for a higher speed rating.
(Emphasis added)
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
What a nightmare, and BMW NA refuses to even help. In 8 months (since I took delivery), the fuel pump failed (HPFP), water pump failed, fuel control system failed, each time a tow and an extended period out of service. Now the charging system won't charge the battery - 2 more tow trucks in the past 3 weeks. After a looong drive, it will hold the charge for about 4-days, then it's dead again. "Click". BMW Emergency Road Service is in my speed dial!
It's been "out of service" for 24 days (in 9-months) and BMW NA said "that's normal". Local dealer, where I purchased 4 NEW CARS, recommended I change my driving habits to accommodate the weak charging system, aka take longer trips. Hmmm, change my life because the car won't charge.....
My driving habits/trip length is identical in the 528i, which has never had a single problem.
Now I'm hearing about all kinds of buy-backs, lemon law-based arbitration cases, etc., due to these known problems with the N54. Yet they deny there's anything wrong with my unreliable lemon.
So how come BMW won't take this dog back (zero sum) and let me spend even more money on a nice new X-6??
My dealer has stated that there are issues with the HPFP on the twin turbos - 335, 535, etc.. I've also been asked if my battery has gone dead. I've had fuel injectors, HPFP, cylinders, etc. replaced. After the last fix, had major acceleration lag, especially off the line. Dealer couldn't find anything wrong, kept it for 8 days, but magically it is fine off the line, and I feel a slight lag as it shifts through the gears. it is not safe to drive as it has broken down like yours. Sometimes I travel into very cold areas with no cell service, so cannot take a chance on breaking down, and having to walk at least 10 miles in -28 degree weather.
My car is under consideration for the Lemon Law. Should get a response this month. If no from BMW NA, next step is BBB for arbitration, which is only binding to the dealer. You can then move onto a lawsuit. In the end you will recoup lawyer's fees, rental fees, etc. My suggestion is to have an attorney send the written notification to BMW NA - see section on this in your warranty manual - stating your intent to go the distance.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Our first experience ended up with our vehicle being down 6 days and with no repair but the dealer charged us $300 to dry the car out and sugested a sunroof repair that would be over $1k but that they were not confident that it would solve the problem. Our service advisor (who is now no longer employed) told us that they cleaned out all of the drains and to let them know if it happens again. So in other words they did not find the problem.
It just rained this past Saturday and the car was again full of water on the passenger side. While it was still raining we took the car back to the dealer and the new service advisor was "shocked" to see the amount of water and put his "top" technician on it. Yesterday the service advisor calls and asks me to come in because they found the problem. It turns out that under the hood on the passenger side they said that there were a bunch of leaves cloging the cabin filter drain and that water was overflowing from this and donw towards the heater box. From there it was landing on a tray with a chanel that enters the passenger side just under the dash which the tech explained to me is to allow air in to cool the ECU. This channel is filling up with water which then is pouring into the car! Now I am no engineer but this does not sound like a very good design. Also in looking at this water is going down into this area and there is nothing we can do to prevent this. Long story short they want over $2k now to dry out the car, replace the sub woofer that is completely under water along with everything else. They are unsure if any sensors are damaged so it may be more. We are not happy with this needless to say. Also there is nothing being done to address the source of the water intrusion. They ae telling us that they will take responsibility for the repair.....what repair?
Was the M54B30 engine also a Nikasil engine?
I think I'd be talking to the station directly or through legal representation if I was in your shoes.
IN any event, I don't see this related to the gasoline issue. Now, if someone had put gasoline in a diesel engine, well....maybe...but diesel or water just makes an engine stop from lack of combustion.
I'd like to hear a *much* better explanation of how we lost compression in all cylinders simultaneously. Until we have that, I don't think you have a case here.
Best regards,
Shipo
Of course, we are talking about *pure* diesel fuel, not a cupful. A cupful in a tank of gas wouldn't hurt anything IMO. Even a cupful of water wouldn't do much more than cause sputtering (maybe) and a clogged up fuel filter perhaps.
Sudden loss of compression on all 6 cylinders is a pretty amazing occurrence. I was thinking there would be an obvious answer to why this happened.
Thinking further about this, it seems logical that when the car was started, and when the owner pulled out of the station, the engine was still running on gasoline that was in the carb bowl(s) and in the fuel lines, so it's possible that both cars were up to speed before the diesel started making its way into the engine.
I appreciate your responses. I will take your ideas to my mechanic. He's independent but works on many BMWs. The "event" actually happened last August, so it was warm. Situation. After work, drove .25 mile to get "fuel". Then drove about .5 mile when the car started lurching, whereby I put in the clutch and coasted to a stop. Hasn't run since.
I'll try to see if the mechanic can take some photos of the cylinder walls. I've seen the walls, not pretty.
I just parked my 1990 5 Series with 287,000 Km's, that's about 200K Miles.
Got tired of putting more money in to it.
With a current market value of about 1400 Euro's at that mileage
130kilometers you can count on repairs.
But to answer your questions:
Control Arms in the front will be a repeat repair.
Wheel bearings in the rear tend to rust and if you wait to long
they have to be Torched out.
Valve train ( lifters or vanos will eventually start making noise.
The only repair for that is replacement.$$$$
The end muffler I replaced 4 times in twenty years (ever 5yrs.)
One clutch disc in twenty years.
One water pump.
The list goes on, but you get the picture.
Let me just say in closing, I kept that car in top shape for twenty years
but it bleed me to death.
That should answer your questions about gasoline, I think.
Best regards
JKAudiA6
My HPFP went at 17,000 miles on my 2009 535i x-drive. Dealer knew immediately the cause, though did not acknowledge any known problem when I questioned them on it. Surprise, surprise. Otherwise, the car has been problem-free and one sweet ride.
I wonder if the recent Toyota debacle has given the entire auto industry a wake-up call. I certainly hope so for the sake of both the industry and us consumers. The cost of recalls and extended warranties pale in comparison to the cost of a damaged brand.
wow after reading about these 535i problems, I'm so glad I didn't go with the one I saw at Bridgeport BMW (CT) last year! Something just told me to not go with a new model (turbos).........my instincts were right. Anyway..........have a beautiful 2007 530i, just had it serviced under the warranty 30K......came through with flying colors, didn't cost me a CENT. Service tech said see ya next year, but I'm wondering, an oil change every 15K miles, does that sound correct? It just seems like a lot of miles to go between oil changes. Guys thanks. I've learned so much from these boards.
Gardis - CT
There are lots of opinions on the proper oil change frequency. I change it every 8,000 miles in my wife's 2004 X3 2.5, primarily because used oil analysis indicates that the oil's additive package is almost depleted by that mileage. Other have good luck with the @15,000 mile interval, but not me...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Many of the synthetic oil companies offer their own warranty if you use their oil and follow their recommendations - Mobil 1's recommendation is 12000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
A car that is designed for extended oil changes usually has more oil in the sump than a more 'normal' engine. This means a larger reservoir of addatives and often, a longer change interval.
1) Was his diagnostic correct?
2) If he knows what's wrong, why didn't he accept the job to fix it?
3) How big a job to repair the problem when coolant mixing engine oil?
4) What shops (in Orange County, CA) are good to repair the car besides the dealer to reduce the cost?
There are very conclusive ways to test for head gasket failure or even oil separator (BMW's fancy PCV valve) problems, so yeah, you need to go somewhere that knows about BMWs.
If in fact you have water + oil extensively distributed throughout your engine, you'd better pour yourself a stiff drink. I think not, but you need to have this properly diagnosed and stop driving the car until you do.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I'm assuming it's the computer module but curious as to what you found when you had it serviced.
Frustrated in Wisconsin.
While on the freeway, a rock or something hit the windshield and now there is a long crack across it. My car, '02 530i has 89K miles. It has the premium-sport package which comes with the rain sensor on the rear view mirror. My insurance deductible is higher than the replacement cost so I will pay for it my self. Question is, I received quotes from a few highly recommended glass shops. It comes down to whether I want to have installed a BMW windshield ($650) or an after market windshield ($350). Each shop claims that the aftermarket windshield is just as good as the BMW part, except it does not have the BMW logo on it. Considering the age and mileage of the car, would it be a mistake to use the after market windshield instead of the BMW windshield?
How's that "new" clutch holding out for you?
Regarding the windshield glass, the only thing I've ever been warned about regarding replacement glass is the actual thickness; I've "heard" (but never experienced) that some aftermarket glass makers skimp on the thickness, and as such, the new glass cracks and pits easier.
I've taken a different route regarding the one broken windshield I've had to deal with on a German car, namely a used windshield. My insurance company told me they'd actually waive my deductible and pay for the entire glass replacement if I'd agree to a used part. Needless to say I agreed.
Best regards,
Shipo
Based upon your comments, I will research the aftermarket glass option a little more carefully. Maybe I could find a used windshield replacement instead. The bottom line is that I want to make sure it does not have distortion, is thinner or causes added wind noise compared to a new BMW windshield.
Pen
1. Turn ignition to Terminal 15. (if equipped with 'Keyless Start' insert remote in ignition slot but do not start engine)
2. Press and hold the Instrument Cluster Set/Reset button for 10 seconds.
3. The upper display in the Instrument Cluster will be illuminated with a Service Item (example: An oil can is the designation for Oil Service). The lower display in the Instrument Cluster will indicate the remaining time or mileage left for that Service Item (example: 14000). Pressing the button repeatedly will allow the display to scroll through all of the Condition Based Service Items.
4. Press and hold the Instrument Cluster Set/Reset button again and the lower display screen will indicate "OK" or "DUE".
5. Pressing the Instrument Cluster Set/Reset button again will allow the "RESET" to appear in the lower window for that service. Releasing and reapplying the button one more time will reset the service displayed in the upper window only. Repeat the procedure for any additional service reset needs.
Weren't you the one that re-purchased your car after your lease, CPOed, for less than the residual?
I replaced a windshield on our '03 325i... The prices were much lower then, and we went with factory glass at the time, because they were the only ones that had the rain sensor.
I wouldn't be worried about the after-market glass, as much as the shop having experience with replacing BMW glass... Ours had a special sealant that had to cure overnight... otherwise, they would have come to my office to do it..
regards,
kyfdx
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Both shops that gave me quotes come highly recommended. I'll let you know which way I decide to go and whether I am satisfied with the result.
Also add to my above list of non-normal maintanence items replaced: control arm bushings. That's it. Hopefully this list won't grow too much in the coming years.
Pen
Like you, I plan to keep this beautiful car another couple of years. I also leased and then purchased it back via CPO at a number that was very attractive... especially given that it was returned to me after a top to bottom update - even new tires.
Need I mention tires if you have the sport model, They are very hard to get in the NE for some reason. This car is just a pain. I wish I had my 2005 540i back, I would NOT recommend the 2008 535xi sport.!!
I'd replace the water pump, t-stat/housing, radiator, and expansion tank in the next 10K-20K. While you are at it you might you should also R&R all of the idler pulleys. It's pretty much a straightforward DIY, if you feel so inclined(3-4 hours if you've never done it before).
Oh yeah, and get a TEC cupholder.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive