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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,363
    I had similar work done @ similar cost this spring. Radiators and water pumps are notorious weak points on these cars so you have to stay on top of them.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • lovemyclklovemyclk Member Posts: 351
    Understand one of the reasons for failure of some plastics in fittings, hoses, etc is the fact that Germany has strict green requirements and these plastics are designed to be biodegradeable. Having superior fitments used in the overhaul...

    I plan to get another 80+K out of her... I hope :)
  • roadrunner35roadrunner35 Member Posts: 1
    Same thing happened to me-- the water is coming in thru the interior light in the bottom pasenger door panel. You need to remove the door panel and reseal the light
  • helpmenowhelpmenow Member Posts: 6
    It was coming in through a breach in right passenger door window door seal for my car which became like a rain forest fishtank. Caused lot's of electrical damage to include guages, sun -moon roof/other. Insurance covered $7000+ in repairs including new rear carpet and total detailing.
  • tommnytommny Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2006 550i which is still under the CPO warranty. last week the navigation screen stopped working (no navigation, radio etc.) oddly enough my cell phone still showed the blue tooth was engaged. I took to the dealer and he advised me the diagnostic tool was not communicating with the i drive. They did a " soft" reset which they said did not work. I was then advised that they would need to due a software upgrade for $500 (they said not covered by CPO) to see if that fixes the problem. They said if this did not work, they would have to install a new CMC $2100+500 already spent, to possible fix the problem. Mdoes anybody know what the problem is (they dont) yet they claim it not covered under the CPO!! Am i getting the run around? BTW i love the car.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,288
    $500 to reflash a module? Get a second opinion.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • banglenotbanglenot Member Posts: 31
    edited November 2010
    Something to consider: the first thing to go is usually the thermostat, which will pop a code when it fails. The rest of the replacements may not be necessary right now. The radiator and WP should be fine if the coolant has been changed, but some folks change them as preventive maintenance on this model at 50-80K miles -- so it makes sense.

    FWIW, I changed the WP, belt and thermostat on my e46 for less than $300 in parts and 2 hours of labor. It is amazingly easy to do if you are at all mechanical. I'll go in later and change the hoses (should have done that at the same time, since I had to replace the coolant). I'll probably replace the hoses and rad at the same time, as a preventive maintenance thing.

    I think $2300 is a colossal ripoff for this work. Look up the parts at autohauz to get a price on OEM or better. Thermostat: $60; WP (Graf metal impeller) $60; Hoses: $60; radiator (Graf): $138. So, for under $400 you have parts, and he's charging you $1900 for labor! For a job even I could do, as a competent shadetree mechanic, in 3-4 hours!

    Anyway, do what you must, but know what you're paying for. Good luck.
  • kelfkelf Member Posts: 83
    Original factory wheel--as soon as go above 30 miles there is a constant grinding noise. Previously tire plcae said it was a tire which appeared to bulge slightly in the middle--replaced it, but the noise continued???
  • southshoremasouthshorema Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 525XI. The front bumper needs to be replaced (hit a pole and cracked a piece off) as well as the underbelly casing. I live south of Boston (south shore). I got one quote for part replacement and labor in the range of $1800. I plan to get some more quotes but was curious on whether anyone has any ideas/suggestions on how to get the bumper and parts cheaply etc so I will only have labor to deal with.
  • helpmenowhelpmenow Member Posts: 6
    Try going to the BMW Car Club of NA. They have a magazine-haven't checked website, but there are lots of adds for replacement parts and also advice in columns. Also, calling local junk yards near your location will sometimes payoff.
  • james27james27 Member Posts: 433
    Keep in mind that the outer cover is only part of the problem...there are often single hit bits and pieces inside that prevent damaging structure like the radiator and fenders. If compromised (you often can't tell from outside), they need to be replaced as well or if you hit something again, it will end up costing LOTS more since there will be nothing to absorb the hit.
  • gardisgardis Member Posts: 185
    Anyone have this problem? I have a 2007 530i, 34K miles on it, still under warranty, car runs beautifully, never had a problem. This week, I'm driving, and I turn off the heating system with the manual button, and the fans keep running. Got out of the car when it was parked, turned ignition off, key out, fans kept running. Checked iDrive, parked vehicle operation is disabled (as I wanted). No indication of a problem. Returned to car about 20 minutes later and fans were off. I called the dealer, they never heard of such a problem.

    Anyone can shed any light on this? Seemed odd, since it happened, have not had a reoccurrence, but I don't want to get stuck on a highway trip with fans running and my battery going dead. You know what I mean? I'm taking it in next Monday. Thought I would ask. Weird, huh?
    Gardis in CT
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,363
    edited December 2010
    You don't have to worry about the battery dying while you are driving down the highway, assuming your alternator is working properly. Those fans can only drain the battery if they while the car is switched off. If they do you wont be able to start.

    I'd have a careful read the section in the manual about the Auto Climate Control. It could be a fault in the ACC module or it could even be a normal function.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • gardisgardis Member Posts: 185
    Guys
    Yesterday I was driving my 530i 2007, I'm pulling into a parking lot and the "Oil Level Low" message comes on the iDrive screen. Now the car was just at the dealer for a routine minimum "service" certainly they would have checked the oil level? When I got back in the car
    the message was gone, didn't come up again. Then I checked the iDrive Service records, all is OK, and all systems register as good.

    What gives with this?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 234,725
    It could have been a momentary mis-read, following a sharp turn.. Or, your sensor could be going bad...

    Or, your oil level could actually be low... Doesn't that model still have a dipstick?

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  • gardisgardis Member Posts: 185
    Dear KYFDX
    Thank you for your insight. Yesterday, as I was parking the vehicle, again that oil can icon appeared in the dash as I turned off the vehicle. Nothing while driving came up on the iDrive screen. I called my tech rep, and asked her if they had checked the fluids when they had the vehicle for a minor inspection two weeks ago. She called me back and said, no they did not check the oil, it needs a "top off" and bring it in they will do it immediately for me, and she apologized to me ("my mistake, sorry"). I brought the car in and the service rep said, BTW, when you add oil between services, we charge you for that oil" but said it in a kind of apologetic way, so I said, go ahead, no problem. They added 1 QT (so she says, I didn't see her add it), charged me $6.89
    She said to me that it was nothing to worry about, BMW actually says the vehicle could burn 1 QT every 1,000 miles. I thought that was a lot of oil to burn, what do you think about that?

    I was surprised they charged me, given the vehicle is still under the service warranty until JUN2012. I wasn't going to argue, I was happy they took care of adding it for me. Otherwise I"m pretty satisfied with this dealership, and have been dealing with this service tech for years also on my previous 3 series. She herself owns a CPO 7 series 2006 and I feel that is a vote of confidance in the brand, don't you? She puts her money where her mouth is I think.
  • sirdarby1sirdarby1 Member Posts: 36
    edited December 2010
  • sirdarby1sirdarby1 Member Posts: 36
    Yesterday we had the dealer check out a 2005 545i with SMG from a private owner and we later purchased. One of the paddle buttons is defective and will cost about $300 to fix. Not a problem.

    My wife has been driving it her second day and is getting used to it. She only drives in the automatic mode but she swears the gears are switching from auto to manual by themselves. So in auto (D1) she says is going back to manual (1).

    As a remedy, she is pulling overtothe side ofthe road, pressing the brake and moving back to Auto mode.

    Is there a problem? I think she may be hitting the paddle accidentally but not sure. Does she have to stop completely when going from manual to auto or can you switch back and forth while driving without hurting the transmission
  • heavywilliamsheavywilliams Member Posts: 1
    2000 BMW 540i starts fine on cold mornings but runs rough (at idle) and seems ready to stop.
    Got tune up (new plugs, fuel filter, etc.) still have issue. When temp guage hits normal, problem goes away. It's only a cold start up that there is a problem. Suggestions?
  • helpmenowhelpmenow Member Posts: 6
    I had a similar problem on my 2003 525i. It went away on its own. At least one time, the car DID STOP running at idle! My mechanic's guess over then phone was that the fuel intake valve may have been clogged.
  • snowallergysnowallergy Member Posts: 135
    I was considering picking up an 08 535i off lease vehcile. But after seeing all of these problems, no way!
  • lovemyclklovemyclk Member Posts: 351
    Hi all. Had both PS hoses and fittings replaced on my '03 530i in July 2008. Bought the car new, so it took 5+ years for any leaks to appear.

    Had a total cooling system overhaul with all components replaced. Radiator, fan, shroud, expansion tank, water pump, thermostat, etc. all replaced. SInce I had this done in Nov 2010, I have noticed a pretty good leak from the PS hose from the lower fitting.

    Question is whether or not the PS hoses must be disconnected in order to perform the cooling system replacement. Given the nature of this current leak, the techs at my indie BMW shop would HAVE to have noticed something in November. I noticed the PS fluid on the floor in mid December. Fluid dripped onto the under engine "tray" for some period before it was of sufficient quantity to make it to the floor of my garage.

    Taking it into the indie shop tomorrow, as the dealer that performed the original work while under CPO Warranty wnated to charge me $159 just to put it on the rack to look at it. At least my guys did not charge me to find the problem and even topped of the ATF fluid. Don't want to "accuse" them of not sufficiently tightening the pressure clamps on the hose (if that is the prob), but if these hoses needed to be disconnected to do the cooling overhaul, then I want them to do the right thinkg by me.

    Any thoughts as a sanity check before I take the car in tomorrow will be greatly appreciated! Thank you.
  • usdbimmusdbimm Member Posts: 1
    ...This is exactly what happened to me...it rained and all of a sudden the car smelled like stagnant water...like it was submerged in a swamp...It was driving me nuts . I checked the floorboards and the front passenger as well as the rear compartment carpet was soaking wet. I took my car to a local shop specializing in bmws and they drained a bucket of water out of the front passenger area ( I didn't see exactly from where ). They told me that some drainage channels were clogged with debris and it caused the water to overflow into the interior of the car , pretty much. So, to the tune of about $120, they drained some water out of the car that should not have been there in the first place . I know that german engineering can do better than this... I mean if some debris causes this kind of problems...ummm...i'm going back to a civic. :mad:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Probably a clogged drain in the fresh air vent system---pretty typical. Leaves or other organic matter get past the screen in the cowl vent (under your windshield wipers) and eventually form a "goop" that plugs the vent drain---and then you have a fishtank in there, which will eventually spill through the firewall (which is not meant to be a fishtank) into the passenger or driver area.

    it's really not the fault of the car. It's more of a maintenance issue and where you park and live.
  • mhutchinsonmhutchinson Member Posts: 17
    Is there a simple way to check for risk of clogging before we find water in the carpet?
    How do we unclog the vents? I'm guessing we remove the screen cover and try to drag the debris out of the vent cavity?...
    Is there a simple way to access the drain?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm not sure exactlyl where the drain exits on your car---probably down low in the middle of the firewall, in the engine bay---and perhaps you can run a wire up that drain and unclog it.

    otherwise, you have to pop the cowl vent off and peer down in there.
  • mhutchinsonmhutchinson Member Posts: 17
    You're the man. Thanks :)
  • lovemyclklovemyclk Member Posts: 351
    Good news, as it turns out that the pressure clamp on the PS hose had loosened somehow... most likely during the cooling system overhaul. No leaks and and all appears well (knock on wood!)

    8 years/84000 miles and the 530 runs and drives just beautifully. Sport Pkg still allows for crisp handling and no suspension issues to deal with yet. Imagine some bushings and shocks may need attention soon, however.
  • itsmebabyitsmebaby Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 528i and the other day I started to hear a strange ticking sound. It kind of sounds like cards going throught the spokes of a bicycle.

    Any ideas on what this might be?

    :confuse:
  • auaqauaq Member Posts: 12
    Hello there!

    I am thinking into buying a bmw 530i. So far I have found two of them. Both of them are from 2003 model. One has 155,000 mi on it which costs $7995 and the other has 111,798 mi which costs $10,990.

    I have been reading a lot of consumer reviews about the reliability of the 5 series and nearly half of them state no problems while others had reliability issues with high maintenance costs. I haven't test drove these vehicles yet, but I have test drove a 2001 525i the other day. However, judging the reviews even on edmunds I would like to know your opinion.

    This is first I am looking into a european car. I have another car in mind - 1998 mercedes e300 turbo diesel and I have test drove it with 193,000 mi on it and it drives fantastically.
  • james27james27 Member Posts: 433
    It's really hard to say without the repair records and being there to observe the actual condition of the vehicle. No car will last a long time without careful maintenance. With it, it could last 500K miles or more. Most people don't or won't perform the required maintenance, but if you find one that has had it, it could be a quite reliable vehicle.

    One thing to consider, though, is that while they may work fine, one recommendation is to replace all of the airbags at 10-years. This could be more cost than the vehicle! While they may work, and you hope you never need them, they may not. Then, most, if not all, rubber components may be toast at that age. Plus, electronics may last a long time, there may not be replacements available depending on how long those parts were made, and when they stopped. A modern engine without a computer module is a boat anchor - and an expensive one at that.

    So, buying old is a risky proposition. Often, except for common repair parts, you may have to wait a long time to find those rare parts that die. If you can accept that it may be out of service for awhile, then it can be a fun, maybe inexpensive (but probably not!) purchase.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    On a used BMW out of warranty, it's wise to "buy mileage" and go for the lowest miled car...presuming it has really good service records.

    As for the Benz, that high mileage is nearing the end of the car's statistical lifespan. I wouldn't pay more than $3500--$4000 for it tops.
  • mhutchinsonmhutchinson Member Posts: 17
    I bot an '03 540i last April. It had 92k on it. I replaced my '98 540i that had 135k on it and was working pretty well when someone hit me from behind and totaled it. The '03 is very nice and everything still works on it with the exception of intermittent poor readout of the on-board computer console messages. The colder it is, the more led lights fail. I had the same problem with the '98 model. I am replacing a blown upper radiator hose this week for $42 (a strictly dealer item). It has plastic quick disconnects permanently banded to the hose (whose bright idea was this?). One of them deteriorated and allowed the hose to blow off on my way to the airport. Without quick reaction to this type situation, you can warp the cylinder heads due to overheating (of any engine).

    I test-drove a 530i (6 cylinder) before purchasing another 540i (8 cylinder) and love the very noticeable power difference.

    The '98 developed the following problems during my 50k ownership:
    1. Sun roof retraction system began to fail (didn't even want to know how much that would cost). Used hand pressure to aid the weak mechanism.
    2. Door handles are pot metal and we broke two off during an exceptionally cold winter where the door seals froze to the body. Found two used handles for $75 each
    3. Driver door latch cable broke ($35 from dealer). Rebuilt my old one.
    4. Rear axel excentric bolt that adjusts the tow-in for rear tire wear broke and had to be replaced ($12) along with a new alignment ($95).
    5. Developed a typical water leak that deposited 1/2 gallon of water in the passenger side rear floor board during heavy rains (read old edmunds thread on this issue).
    6. Replaced a missing second key ($160)

    The M62 (V-8) engine (as well as the 6) is a beautiful piece of machinery as long as you maintain it. I have the Bentley Repair Manuals (2 volumes @ $135 from Amazon.com) and can see the effort required to tension the cam chains, replace the water cooled alternator, the starter, exhaust system, etc. These can be prohibitive costs as the value of the car declines if you have to pay BMW or others to perform these repairs for you. You might want to price out parts that typically fail on many cars with over 100k miles them before you buy any car. In addition, I believe consumer reports indicated concerns over some model year transmissions (you might ask Mr. Shiftright about that).

    All of this being said, I did buy my second 5 series and thoroughly enjoy driving it! If you have good mechanic skills, you will probably survive the repair costs for quite a while. If not, ???
  • woodywwwoodyww Member Posts: 1,806
    I saw your post in another forum about: "My family and I are thinking of buying a new car probably such as the focus, corolla, camry, civic, and altima perhaps (all from 2011 models). I have been looking in for a diesel for quite a while now and am prepared to have one."

    Nothing wrong with being all over the map like that, but it would be helpful if on a bmw or m-b forum you'd say your other option is a new corolla or civic. If you have no experience maintaining a 100K+ bmw or m-b, I'd say buy the new economy car.

    Or buy a diesel, or a Mack truck, or a Model T, but maybe try to focus? Or maybe this is a send-up......
  • christinefchristinef Member Posts: 6
  • christinefchristinef Member Posts: 6
    I am at 47,500 miles and my warranty will be ended in a few months. Does anyone has a good independent BMW mechanic located in the San Fernando Valley area that you can recommend? Please give the shop name, and anyone in particular to ask for. I appreciate it.
  • kendall8kendall8 Member Posts: 28
    My 2004 541i auto/ with 99k. Was 2 q short, on oil. Never burned any, had car since 30k. Now I can hear ticking, from motor,, And leaking antifreeze, had one hose fixed, still leaking.... TY,,,
  • auaqauaq Member Posts: 12
    Thank you for your concern(s) and advice(s).

    It has been long time since I last typed a message here on this forum. However, I would like to make a announcement that I have actually bought the 2003 BMW 530i with 111,000 mi. We did look at other vehicles like economy class ('07 Camry with 27,000 mi, '05 Focus with 85,000 mi, '08 Dodge Avenger) before the purchase. We test drove all of them. They were in the range of 10~18 grand, however, we could not get a good deal especially for the camry. Any ways, I am happy with the purchase and the car is running excellent. I changed the rear brakes and the alternator all by myself. Changed the spark plugs and put a new K&N filter as well as did synthetic oil change. Topped up the tyre pressure as per the specs. Initially in the first week I was averaging about 18~19 mpg, but now with the tune-up I am getting about 22~23 mpg in city driving. How about that!!

    Thought I'll just update you guys. That's it for me to say now.
    Take care.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    edited June 2011
    I highly recommend you pull that K&N and put a standard paper filter back in; you're fuel economy and performance will be just as good and you won't run into any airflow-sensor issues. As for your engine oil, did you use an oil that is BMW LL-01 certified? If you didn't then I suggest you change it again with something like Mobil 1 0W-40.

    Enjoy your car. :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I would agree...ditch the K&N asap. It's not helping you.
  • auaqauaq Member Posts: 12
    I used the Mobile 1 oil 5W30 as per the spec given in the book. The K&N filter is the same size as the standard filter. I am aware of such tune-ups where one removes the whole air box and the airflow sensor and being replaced by aftermarket air intake system which runs all the way to the throttle body. However, this is not the case with mine. I am not one of those typical tuner where I seek power or anything. I have used K&N filter before in other cars and I have seen some difference (namely improvement in performance). However, I am not going to ignore your advice as I shall observe the performance for over a period of time. If I think it is not giving me any improvement/advantage but instead problems, then I shall replace it with the standard filter.

    I appreciate your concern very much.

    Thanks
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "I used the Mobile 1 oil 5W30 as per the spec given in the book."

    You need to read it again; unless you're using the Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 then your oil is incorrect and insufficient for use in your car. The only two Mobil 1 oils sold in North America that are BMW LL-01 certified are Mobil 1 0W-40 and Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 (which is an expensive low SAPS oil meeting the VW 504.00 and 507.00 oil standards as well).
  • james27james27 Member Posts: 433
    I couldn't find an LL-01 certification on the Mobil 1 oils. The last letter I saw showed them as an alternative for a top off IF you couldn't find one of the LL-01 oils. Now, not sure it they would actually meet the spec, as they'd probably have to pay for it and may not care to. So, as I read it (and I could be wrong), they should not be used during a full oil change. Probably won't hurt, but possibly could.
  • auaqauaq Member Posts: 12
    Do you mean this?....

    http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_ESP_Formula_5W-30.aspx-

    On the website I put my vehicle's information to find the right oil grade and it tells to use the following:

    http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_ESP_Formula_5W-30.aspx-

    Do you think I should redo oil change with the right spec?
  • james27james27 Member Posts: 433
    I do not know what the difference between LL-04 and LL-01 is, but Mobil lists the former and not the latter in it's specifications, which is what they now specify. I'm new to BMW, and have no experience. I won't get mine back from the European delivery until the end of the month, so it'll be a long time before I have to pay for an oil change, but I've been looking to see what's around (not much, and hard to find).

    What you might want to do is send some oil out for analysis after maybe 3K miles, and see what it's doing. SHort enough where it probably won't do much, but early enough to see if it is lacking. But, at the cost of the analysis, I'm not sure...this isn't my area, just going on what I read.
  • auaqauaq Member Posts: 12
    Same thing here. I do not just buy things blindly without doing some research. Even though I have worked as a mechanic for about one and half years I do not have much experience on european vehicles. I have mainly worked on japanese and some american ones. So I need more time to know about my car, and general BMW(s) information and maintenance records.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    edited June 2011
    BMW Long-Life 2001 (aka. LL-01) is BMW's required oil specification for ALL late model BMWs with a gasoline engine (except "M" series cars).
    BMW Long-Life 2004 (aka. LL-04) is BMW's required oil specification for ALL late model BMWs with a diesel engine.

    Mobil 1 oils which meet LL-01:
    -- Mobil 1 0W-40
    -- Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30

    Mobil 1 oils which meet LL-04:
    -- Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30

    Simple as that. :)
  • james27james27 Member Posts: 433
    Couldn't find LL01 for the Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 (only the LL04 rating), but LL01 is listed for the 0W-40. The 40W is probably not going to be the most fuel efficient weight for your BMW, but it is approved. If the vehicle can maintain the rated oil pressure when fully hot with a 30W oil, a 40W oil will add drag. If you regularly run it on a track, then the 40W might end up protecting more, but as long as the oil pressure is maintained, the lightest oil that can do that will create the least drag and improve efficiency while keeping wear in line. ALL oils are too thick at cold start, so a synthectic with a lower number is better - NO car needs more than that 0W, but some will need a higher second number, depending on design and use.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Please don't let the grade specification get in your way; there will be absolutely zero difference in power or fuel economy between a 5W-30 and Mobil's 0W-40 (which if you read the Virgin Oil Analysis reports is at the very light end of the xW-40 spectrum). As I understand it, any oil which meets LL-04 by default meets LL-01 (in the same way that all LL-01 oils by default meet the previous LL-98 standard); I'll confirm that and report back.

    Long story short, in this era of published oil specifications by the various vehicle manufacturers, it is Oil Spec first and grade second. Said another way, if your two choices are a 5W-30 which is not LL-01 certified versus a 0W-40 which is certified, the 0W-40 is the oil you should pick.
  • james27james27 Member Posts: 433
    edited June 2011
    BMW LL04 spec'ed oils appear to have a lower starting TBN than the LL01 oils and the sulphur in the US fuels depletes the TBN, exposing the engine to corrosion once the TBN is depleted. This is especially detrimental on the long oil change intervals BMW specifies - you'd have less margin of safety with LL04 oils. So, with this in mind, and BMW's apparant recommendations, you should NOT use an LL04 oil in a gasoline engined vehicle in the USA, only an LL01 variety. It appears that the EU fuel specs are much more stringent, and there, they may be interchangable, but not here.

    Given more than one LL01 oil, though, I'd opt for the lower 30W over a 40W unless I was exposing the engine to extremely high temperatures caused by continued high RPM or heavy loads that might be experienced during racing or autocrossing. Don't think many people actually pull a trailer with their BMW's, but if they do, then that may point towards the higher weight. As long as the pressure is maintained at speed, the lowest weight oil will flow better with the least restrictions while maintaining protection. A thicker oil will flow less, and may heat up more since it won't go through the cooler as often with the slower flow. As long as pressure is maintained, you get no additional wear protection with the heavier oil. Your driving style, the environment, and engine may dictate a particular weight, so no one oil is best for everyone.

    AutoZone appears to carry the Castrol European formula 0W-30, at least at some stores for $8.49/qt. Might be a good source, especially if you can find it on sale. About what BMW sells it for, I think.
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