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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

1568101154

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    bmwmrcbmwmrc Member Posts: 66
    I too have a new 525I and I too couldn't get my universal garage door opener to work. I called the dealer and they gave me the number to Homelink. I found this more helpful than the web site. Call: 1-800-355-3315. Good luck. BTW, my opener works great!
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    pj903pj903 Member Posts: 2
    I have a new 2003 530iA (1000 miles) and it consistently has a vibration/shudder at 65 mph. It is more pronounced when the engine is under load (acceleration). The car runs fine and the vibration is not there at any other speed and goes away once the car accelerates past that speed. It is reproducible and persists if I drive it at steady 65 mph.
    I took it to the dealer and they have checked/balanced the tires, checked the drive shaft/differential and claim to have replaced the 'exhaust system'. So after two weeks of waiting, the vibration is much less pronounced, but I can feel it under hard acceleration/going uphill etc.
    Any ideas/similar problems/suggestions ?
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    beemerbeaterbeemerbeater Member Posts: 1
    Bought car on labour day. Stayed parked for 6-7 days. Tried to start it. Battery completely dead. Noticed after jump starting it that "P" Lamp in Shifter stays on even after car keys removed. Light stays on all the time (incandescent) and likely drains battery at 50mA.

    THis is the second problem in as many weeks I have had. Quality car? This is my second 5 series...brand new 530 03. Not impressed.
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    kimj1kimj1 Member Posts: 32
    I have had my 03 525 now for 4 weeks and have been experiencing the very same problem as you. The dealer has put new tires on after determining that the orginal set (front) was out of round. That did not fix the problem. They then rebalanced them after finding that their balancing machine needed to be recalibrated. Still, not fixed. I have an appointment to take it in later this week to try again to fix the problem. The vibration is felt in the steering wheel as well as in the foot well on both sides. When the passenger seat is empty, the seat back has a very noticable shake to it. I experince the problem at the same speed as you. If I get a fix, I will post what was done. If you get yours fixed before me, would you please post what was done. Thanks

    Good luck. Kim
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    newbmernewbmer Member Posts: 3
    I just bought a new 525i a month ago. I recently noticed significant increase of the noise level from the exhaust system. There is a low noise from the muffler when the car is idling. Also, when the engine is about 1500 rpm, there is a obvious noise from the exhaust system too.

    Has anyone had the same problem? Any fixes?
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    pj903pj903 Member Posts: 2
    So far the BMW repair people have replaced the tires, aligned the drive shaft and have checked the rear differential system. Then they claim to have replaced the exhaust manifold/pipes etc. This resulted in improving the noise/vibration that occurs at 65 mph. Now it only occurs when the car is being driven hard. If the acceleration is slow, like going downhill. I am taking the car back in again.......
    If I wanted slow acceleration, I would've continued to drive my SUV !
    PJ
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    mbdrivermbdriver Member Posts: 426
    Just returned home from a 17-day trip to Europe. and was worried about my new 530i and it's inability to hold a charge. If you recall, I was told by the dealer in early September that my 2-month old BMW with 1100 miles had to be driven regularly to prevent the battery from being discharged.

    They had checked the entire alternator/battery/charging system and found nothing wrong. My salesman intervened and insisted that they install a new battery.

    Presto! After the car sat untouched and not driven for 3 weeks (we had a hurricane just before departing), I cranked it up yesterday and it started immediately! No problems! So the battery was the culprit after all! I'm relieved, and my faith in BMW is restored.

    BTW, saw a new 2004 530iA sitting on display in a square in Budapest last Saturday. Gorgeous! Sticker was around $81,000! But I'm glad I bought the 2003 model.
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    sjmacsjmac Member Posts: 2
    I'm looking for a set of winter tires for my 99' 528i and I would like to avoid the heavy price tag if at all possible. (i.e. tirerack.com) Any suggestions as to which tires will give me the best performance vs. traction in the ice/snow? Also, what sizes are typically the best for winter tires? Is it better to get them mounted on a set of steel rims?

    your feedback is appreciated!
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    cars17cars17 Member Posts: 1
    Great vehicle. Purchased Dunlop Winter Sports - not bad traction for a RWD, far better than my old 318i, especially with traction control.

    Have developed rattling/creaking noise from sunroof (only when closed). Goes away even when partially opened. Dealer tried lubrication w/o success in abating or eliminating noise. Any similar experience ?
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    t_manerot_manero Member Posts: 8
    I've had 2 minor incidents with my 525 - - the rear plastic bumper cover has several chips and the front plastic lower wrap-around plastic chin was scraped by a higher than usual sidewalk. What kind of shop would replace plastic bumper trim pieces - - I pretty sure no structural damage -- a body shop or the dealer?? Thanks.
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    t_manerot_manero Member Posts: 8
    This info is from Consumer Reports - - I swear by them because car makers hate them.
    If you go with H-rate winter tires, you can't avoid big bucks (ca. $130 each) - - CR recommends the Dunlop SP Winter Sport M2; also Goodyear Eagle Ulra Grip GW-2 if available and Pirelli Winter 210 Snowsport. These are materially better than all-season tires, but perform less well in braking & handling in dry weather.
    All-season H-rated tires are "good" for snow, and they cost less (ca. $100 ea.) - - CR recommends Falken (but no self-respecting BMW owner would want it on the car) - - so the other choices are Michelin Pilot XGT H4, Bridgestone Turanza LS-H, and Continental ContiTouring Contact CH95. My choice would be the Conti since it is my OEM tires, and you can use them all season. These tires handle & brake well in dry and are "good" in snow as compared to "very good" for above winter tires.
    Avoid the Bridgestone Potenza RE950; all around excellent in dry weather but has "poor" snow traction.
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    warthogwarthog Member Posts: 216
    In my 2003 530i (premium), the passenger seat moves rearward at least 1.5" more than the driver's seat. I remember reading somewhere that there's a block or stop in the track for the driver's seat but I can't find anything like that. Can anyone help?
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    thebod1thebod1 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem.

    Had alignment checked. When the car is raised make sure the guy rotates the tires to make sure they are not out of round. I had to replace two tires for being out of round. This was on a new set of tires. When tires are made at the factory they will run the cycle so fast that the tires do not cool and set in on dimensions all the time properly. If weights have to be put on the tire make sure the weights are split on each side of the tire (front and back of tire) After this was done I had no problems with vibration from 60-70MPH
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    dohc97dohc97 Member Posts: 20
    I just got my 2003 540 about 500+ miles ago. I have the vibration problem at 60+mph. I took it to the dealer last 10/20. They rebalanced all 4 tires. It never solved anything. A tech then drove the car with me as a passenger. As soon as he hit 60, he noticed right away the vibration. I will be taking my car back to the dealer tomorrow, 10/23.
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    2gr8sons2gr8sons Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a certified 2000 528i last May. The dealership has told me that it is necessary to put in new rotars when I have the brake pads replaced. Last week I went to a shop that specializes in foreign cars and was told I only needed new front pads. I had those installed and the squeaking noise increased. On returning to the shop, I was told that the front rotars need replacing. Question: Is it necessary to always replace rotars along with pads?
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    dohc97dohc97 Member Posts: 20
    Well, I am a happy camper now. The dealer replaced my 2 front tires and my car is now vibrationless. Just in time for my drive to New Jersey tomorrow for my stereo installation.
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    div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    The brake pad composition and your driving habits will determine whether or not you need to change rotors at every pad change. BMW dealers will always replace the rotors because in most cases the rotors will reach their minimum thickness several thousand miles before the second set of pads wear out. My wife is hardly an aggressive driver, so I get away with changing rotors every other pad change on her 528iA. I also prefer the AXXIS Deluxe Plus pads; they are excellent street pads and are available for no more than $46 front and $28 rear. I do prefer to use BMW rotors, however; they are about the best quality available, and-with a BMW CCA discount-they are reasonably priced as well. Check out: http://www.zeckhausen.com/BMW/E39.htm for more information.
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    casey103casey103 Member Posts: 11
    I recently purchased a 1998 528i 5 spd. I love it and it is in great shape with the exception of the 17" optional wheels. The clearcoat is coming off in certain areas and causes the wheels to look bad. Is there a way to remove the clearcoat? The alloy looks like it would be fine underneath. Can I sand it off?..or am I asking for trouble?

    Also, Can I switch from 17" to 16" wheels and tires for the winter? There doesn't seem to be much of a choice in 17" tires
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    ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    You should be able to switch to 16's for the winter as long as you keep the outside diameter of the tires real close to what they currently are
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    swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    that sounds a little extreme, sanding down the wheels. there are outfits that recondition cast wheels, I would have one of them do the work.

    you could have a body shop dissolve off the existing clear enamel and redo it after dismounting the tires, but because the wheels hold the air that keeps the car in control, I would have a specialist do it for me.
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    manybmwsmanybmws Member Posts: 347
    Don't attempt yourself. I am having a couple of my 17" BMW wheels done and will cost about $150.

    I bought these 17 inchers and put Michelin Pilot Sport A/S on them. Although you do have more choice for high performance 17" winter tires now (www.tirerack.com). Depending on where you live this may work for you (though salt may accelerate clearcoat damage). In winter I run the original 16" wheels off my 530i with Michelin Pilot Alpins.
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    larryp5larryp5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 528i where both headlight adjusters have broken, dropping the headlights down so that they are almost useless. I mentioned this to a neighbor with the same car and he has had one headlight replaced, and the adjuster on the other is also broken. Does anyone know of a "silent" warranty, or a less expensive solution than replacing the whole headlight assembly? I currently have them held in place with duck tape.
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    div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
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    alabialabi Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me the next line of action when the Transmission Control Module indicator lights up? What is wrong with the car and the fix for this.
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    glakerglaker Member Posts: 49
    I'm trying to find a good spot on the windshield of my 2003 530 to attach the 3"x3" radio gizmo which gets read when driving thru toll booths (it's called EZ Pass in New York state). The EZ Pass people recommend placement in front of the mirror so it can be easily read and doesn't get in the line of sight. The owners manual, however, says don't put anything in front of the mirror as it can interfere with the "eyes" for the auto wipers and mirror dimmer. Anyone else have any experience with placement of such a device?
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    x021627x021627 Member Posts: 152
    i have mine right behind the rear view mirror and have no problems with either the auto dimmer mirror or wipers. I don't see it when I'm looking at the mirror.

    Hope this helps.
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    vifivervifiver Member Posts: 7
    Ditto on locating it right behind the rear view mirror. No problem with the wiper or auto-dimmer. Best way to place it is to sit in the driver's seat and move the gizmo (before peeling off the adhesive label) around on the windshield until it's hidden behind the rear-view mirror. It's helpful, but not necessary, to have someone spot from the outside so you don't attach it crookedly.
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    manybmwsmanybmws Member Posts: 347
    Same here and no problems.
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    apandyaapandya Member Posts: 1
    Just got a 525i w/ Sports Pkg and can't seem to get rid of this noise from the front tires. BMW Service tells me it's the sports performance tires - Michelin Pilot brands. They tell me that there's nothing I can do. Is the alignment? The tires feel weird .. they are wavy on the inside. But the strange thing is, the front only seem to be noisey and not the rear. Anyone experienced this?
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    dds540dds540 Member Posts: 5
    My BMW is out of warranty. Can anyone recommend any independent shops in Houston, TX?
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    bmwchiefbmwchief Member Posts: 4
    Hello,
    I recently purchased a 1999 528i, major service just completed. About 2 weeks ago, I filled the tank with fuel, started the engine and about 2 miles later, got a check engine light. I checked the gas cap, not loose. Went to a service center where the car was scanned, not faults found. The next week, I got fuel again and when I started the engine, the light went out! Car was running great and I was happy! Today, I washed the car and went for a short drive to remove excess rinse water, about a mile into the drive, you guessed it, the light returned.......car began to run crappy, poor acceleration, vibrations, ect. Does anyone have a suggestion??
    Thanks in advance.....
    Confused
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    div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    When the CEL lights up a fault code is stored in the ECU-even if the light subsequently goes out. A good scanner can recover the code. Where did you take your car to be scanned?
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    bmwchiefbmwchief Member Posts: 4
    div2, I took it to the local dealer that I got it from, not an authorized bmw center. This dealer sells and services only bmw's but his scanner did not show any problem.
    thanks
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    div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Well, I use an independent shop as well. They have never had a problem trapping a code. I also have the Peake R5/FCX scan/reset tool: http://peakeresearch.com/code_tool.htm . It has proven useful as well. If your car is running rough and has thrown the CEL a decent scanner WILL identify the fault.
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    bmwmrcbmwmrc Member Posts: 66
    I live in Southern California, and we have a lot of cement freeways. I only seem to notice the noise there and not on surface streets. I too have the Michelin Pilots. So, it's hard for me to say whether it's the road or the tires or a combination of both. But you're not the only one who has complained about the tires on this board. I would be curious to learn what the dealership had to say to you in detail about the Michelin's.
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    bmwchiefbmwchief Member Posts: 4
    Once again the solution eludes me!!
    Carried the car to a dealer today, cel still lit. The
    dealer called me back and said that the light was out,
     no faults. I got in the car and drove about 60 miles, all the time, cel was out. I stopped at a store, shut the car off. When I got back in the car,
    the light was back on. Running o.k., but the cel is still lit.
    HELP
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    firemousefiremouse Member Posts: 19
    I would take it to another dealer and have them run the diagnostics.

    It is what my BMW mechanic terms as an ‘intermittent’ fault
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    sevarinosevarino Member Posts: 2
    I'm new to posting on the board. Have a 2003 530i with SP, 5 speed. I had the same vibration problem many others have noted. My car came with Dunlop Sport2000s and it was concluded two were defective. They were replaced, but I had to go to a Dunlop dealer, pay for mounting and balancing etc. I have a letter into BMW now complaining about that. At any rate, another problem: I used a black sunglass holder for about a month on the passenger visor - I don't like most holders because they crease the visor. This didn't do that, it just left a nice black stain on the visor, as if the dye transferred. I've tried stuff as strong as 3M adhesive remover without any affect. Any other suggestions. TIA.
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    davijondavijon Member Posts: 2
    I have been reading and hearing about the increasing lack of reliability of some European cars, like the Mercedes and BMW. I have been thinking about looking at the new 5 series, but am a bit concerned about its reliability. Can anyone shed any light on this issue.
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    oddcarnutoddcarnut Member Posts: 7
    Several other posts have been made about the key memory function. Our 2001 525iT has a problem the dealer has not been able to fix after numerous attempts. The first time I lock & unlock the car after my wife has used it, the seats, etc. are always set to the her settings. It doesn't matter whether I set things to my position before or after inserting the key in the ignition. The same thing happens to her if I've driven the car and then she drives it. Anyone else had this problem & founs a solution?
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    rtboonrtboon Member Posts: 21
    I have a 97 528i with 106,000 miles and am hearing a tinny sound from under the center of the car. Sounds like metal vibrating at idle. Had the dealer look at it and he says my catalytic convertor is starting to go and will need to be replaced at a cost of $1400. Anyone had a convertor go on them and what was the cost to replace? How long is one supposed to last?
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    dv8eddv8ed Member Posts: 17
    Picked up my BMW 525 '04 this morning from the dealer in a matter of hours first problem Airbag Restraint Faulty i-Drive says take to your local BMW dealer for service. Second problem I turn the ignition 2 clicks but did not start the engine and my i-Drive language is in German. I had to read the manual to guess my way through and change it back to English. It was simple though. I wonder if it had anything to do with me accidently holding down the panic button.. then the alarm went off then I turned it off the panic via the remote. Then I went into the car and turned the ignition then saw the German text.
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    yelenikyelenik Member Posts: 4
    Looking to upgrade the stereo on my 2000 528i. Anyone know how to remove the front door panels? I removed the black cap/cover and screw behind the inside door handle release. I did get to unsnap around the left, bottom and right of the panel. What next? Lift up?

    Yelenik
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    fla528fla528 Member Posts: 17
    I just traded my 2000 323 in on a 2000 528 with full CPO warranty until 12/12005. My question is that the vehicle has 18" wheels with 245/40s in the front and 275/55s in the back. Also these are not the stock wheels and the 528 does not have the sport package. The ride is very harsh and the 528 is a daily driver, so I am considering selling these wheels and going to purchasing 17" or 16" wheels along with new tires..!! All opinions would be helpful.
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    bmwchiefbmwchief Member Posts: 4
    Greetings,
    I last posted this message under "check engine prob, 1999 528i".
    Now, the mystery continues. Basically, my 528i had been showing a cel at various times, no faults found. Two days ago, I decided to drive the car on a trip. When I left the cel was out, the frist time I refueled, it returned. Today, driving on the interstate,( cel still showing ), my wife reached up and flipped down the sun visor on the passenegr side of the car, and opened the vanity mirror. The lights failed to light, AND when she did this, the cruise control turned off, the radio turned off, the steering wheel tilted up and retracted, the trans indicator light came on and the air bag light came on!!!!!!!!!!!!! As soon as she closed the mirror, everything returned to normal except for the cel light, the trans light and the cruise control. The lights continue to burn and the cruise refuses to work. I also lost all controls on the steering wheel, ie, the radio functions, cruise...
    The car continues to run very well, and a short time later the vanitly lights worked perfectly. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON???!!!!!!! If it were still halloween, I would believe that I am haunted.
    All ideas, similar experiences, or help are GREATLY appreciated. My independent dealer still says that car shows no faults, however I am beginning to suspect an electrical short of some type.
    Thanks in advance,
    A frustrated but faithful BMW owner
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    sykusyku Member Posts: 7
    I own a 03' 525I. It's been running great and I just love driving that car. But my battery went completely dead twice within the last three weeks. The common thing I did prior to each one of these incidents is that, I made a few very short trips within my town (with the head light switch in the automatic position)before parking the car in my driveway for three days continuously. When I tried to start the car after the third day, everything was completely dead. I had to recharge the battery fully before I could start it again. Has anyone come across this issue before?

    thanks in advance
    A new 525 owner.
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    div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Here's the information you are looking for:
    http://bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/tips_pages/speakerlocations.htm
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    bmwluverbmwluver Member Posts: 11
    Passenger seat belt keeps tightening up and locking when it should not. Impossible to loosen unless you stop car and cut ignition. My wife is beginning to suspect I am trying to strangle her. Have had unit replaced once...and no improvement. Second one now ordered. Any suggestions for keeping my BMW A1... and my wife?
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    firemousefiremouse Member Posts: 19
    It truly sounds to me that you have a bad computer on board.
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    bdavbdav2bdavbdav2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi - Any one with the new 5-Series E60 and the professional radio (the 1 that comes with Business navigation) got the MP3 decoder working - Mine dosent work at all..... cd appears greyed out ..... tried In dash and changer...
    TIA
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