BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

mbdriver · November 2003

I had a similar problem with my 2003 530i, new in late July. About three weeks after I took delivery, I washed the BMW and my wife's Mercedes E320. By habit, I left all the doors of both cars open while I dried the inside door frames, etc., and vacuumed both cars.

I pulled both into the garage, and the next day the BMW had a dead battery. Roadside Assistance provided a jump start, and I took it back to the dealer. They kept the car for two days and could find nothing wrong with the alternator, charging system or the battery.

But my salesman intervened and insisted that the Service Dep't. put a new battery in the car. The Service manager agreed, saying that often a new BMW will sit for days or weeks on either side of the Atlantic, and the battery goes bad but often checks out as being okay.

We've had no problems since! We even were on vacation for almost 3 weeks in late September-early October, with the cars sitting without being started or driven. Got home, and both started without a hitch.

Bottom line -- insist that your dealer put in a new battery, even if it checks out okay in their tests (and assuming the alternator and charging system check out okay). One service advisor tried to blame the "no start" problem on the many computer chips and systems in the car, and the car not being driven enough to keep the battery charged. That was horse-hockey!

Let us know what develops.

vifiver · November 2003

Any suggestions for all-season tires that will handle well in wet AND dry conditions? Here in Maryland, I won't need snow tires, but am not looking forward to commuting in the occasional snow because my current tires have a hard enough time gripping in the rain: the DSC indicator lamp comes on frequently (for a second or two) when I corner in the rain. The tires are Toyo Proxes which, according to Consumer Reports, are supposed to offer the best blend of wet/dry traction. Even the ContiSport Contact 2s are rated below them.

tnsplayaa · November 2003

I own a 1998 528i,and Im having an intermittent problem with wiper washer. Sometimes only the washer works, then other times it doesn't work at all, there was no signs of the wiper motor breakdown previously it just stopped. As my vehicle didn't come with and owners manual, and I would like to change the fuse or either the relays before I take it into a dealership for the repair. Can anyone tell me where I would find the fuse for wiper/washer and the relay?

karmikan · November 2003

On my '03 530 the fuse panel is in a drop-down lid inside the glove box at the top. There are a couple of twist catches that release it. The wiper fuse is # 1.

Yours might be the same, worth a look anyway.

rnathi · November 2003

Details: My car is 1999 528i (Manual) which I had it for almost two years.
Problem: In the morning (after a chilly night - usually below 35 degrees) when i start up the car and leave it for warm-up, it starts with no problem but dies out after few minutes and I had to restart it after which it stays on. I had been to multiple dealers who replaced Vanos system twice and the problem still persists.
Any solutions or suggestions are welcome and appreciated. - Thanks

casey103 · November 2003

after convincing my wife that it was a good idea to spend substantially more for a five year old 528i than a late model Camry...the passenger interior door handle broke right off in her hand when she tried to open the door. It looks like cheap plastic. Is there a way to purchase and replace the handle without spending a fortune? Are ther special tools required? (It certainly is hard to explain how the Camry is perfect after 12 years and 125k miles but that's another story) Thank you.

div2 · November 2003

The door handle fix is simple and inexpensive:
http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/door/doorhandle.htm Your CCA discount should help as far as the price goes.
The E39(like most new BMW models) suffered from several glitches in the first few months of production. The good news is that BMW corrected most of those problems and once fixed they tend to STAY fixed. I know of several owners who have had to replace the door handles but I haven't replaced one in 3 years and 50K miles. Between the CPO warranty and and myself we fixed the half dozen or so problems that our early-build 5er suffered from. The past 35000 miles have been problem free, with the exception of a dead windshield washer pump(one hour and @$35)
And yes a Toyota appliance is more reliable. It is also the equivalent of vehicular Novocane-also spelled B-O-R-I-N-G. We had the particular misfortune of being forced to accept a rental Camry when my wife's 3er was in the body shop recovering from a run-in with a moron-operated minivan. Now, my wife is not an auto enthusiast nor is she status-driven(how could she be-she drove a Buick when we were dating). Nevertheless, she HATED the Camry. She only drove it to and from work-she said that if she could drive a stick she would have taken my 3er and made me drive the Toyawnta. The rest of the time we left the despised appliance in the driveway. Everyone sets their own automotive priorities, and for us the occasional glitch is vastly outweighed by the superlative driving experience and capabilities of the 5er.

manybmws · November 2003

I use Michelin Pilot Sport A/S. Excellent in dry/wet and decent in snow.

hicaira · November 2003

The other day after completing a trip the "Check Engine Oil Level" message came up on the dash. I check the oil pretty regularly and have determined the burn rate (one quart every 3700 miles or so) so I was not suprised to see that it was only about 1/2 quart low (per the indicator marks on the dipstick). Nonetheless, I added a half quart to bring it up to the top mark.

The warning message continues to come up at the end of every drive though. The oil level is not low, and I have no other problem indicators. Can't get into the dealer for two weeks - any way to clear this?

HiC

george94 · November 2003

I purchased my 03 530 in April and many times the car would have a mind on its own and the seats would reset to other settings once I unlocked the car. The dealer tracked it down to the control module still in transport mode and then, replaced the memory control module. I have not had a problem since - 3 month.

casey103 · November 2003

I bought a 98 e39. Is it recommended to use Mobil1 even if the car never did before? The car has 80k on it. Would Mobil1 be better for longevity of the engine?

yelenik · November 2003

Hey Div2, thanks. Door panels are off with no damage.

vifiver · November 2003

Hey ManyBMWs, thanks for the reco on the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S; I'll check them out. By the way, does anyone know off-hand whether a faulty turn indicator bulb/lamp is covered under the 3/36K warranty? Thanks.

div2 · November 2003

Some folks believe that you shouldn't switch to synthetic on higher mileage cars; I've done it with no problems. In my opinion you should be OK.

karmikan · November 2003

The main reason that you wouldn't want to switch is that the engine seals will have shrunk on a higher mileage car and synthetic can leak because it's much finer. I'd give it a shot but check your oil level very regularly. If you find you're losing oil switch back.

Good luck.

rgwl · November 2003

Has anyone ever had the problem on the 2002 530I where the fan shuts off and doesn't turn back on even when I adjust the temp setting or increase the fan speed. This happens if the A/C is on or not. Is the thermostat defective ? Sometimes after a minute or 2 it kicks back in. Sometimes everything seems to work when I shut the car and restart it. ?????

rgwl · November 2003

Does anyone know how to reset the daytime running lights back on ? I had to dealer turn them off when I purchased my 2002 530I. but now I want them back on ? Dealer wants to charge me for it. Am wondering if it's simple to turn back on .

george94 · November 2003

MY 03 530 sp, 5 sp received the check oil warning light after the first 5,500 miles. I happened to go to the dealer for my memory seat issue (see my earlier post) so they refilled the oil. However, the light is suppose to reset itself but in my case it did not. The dealer had to reprogram the LCM module. I haven't had a problem since. However, I was told these engines do consume extra oil. I am keeping an eye on this. Weird, in my Honda days I never bothered checking the oil stick....I guess it comes with the privilege of driving BMW

Good luck.

hicaira · November 2003

rgwl: There is a bad part in the fan control unit. TSB on this. Dealer will be aware of this one. As for the DRL's: are you saying that your's are consistant? I'd settle for that. As it is, mine randomly think they are DRL's sometimes and non DRL's other times. I'll ask the dealer to choose one or the other - I don't care - just want some predictability.

george: I suspect I have the same bad LCM. Thanks for the insight.

So, anyone else have driver side vanity lights that come on whenever the visor is moved to the side? Supposed to come on only when the mirror is opened, but I suspect I have a short in the visor switch.

Worst visor in any car I have ever had BTW. Ergonomic insult.

HiC

syku · November 2003

Well, it happened again. The battery went completely dead. I'll follow mbdriver's adivice and take it back to get a new battery.

viz · November 2003

Hi,
I own a 528i ; 1998 model and to be frank it has costed me a fortune. I had severe problems with temparature gauge moving towards red- towed it 4 times to the dealer- spent around 1500 bucks for replacing radiator, hose etc.,

Well it has 65000 miles on it and now after the 60,000 mile inspection the dealer is asking me to get the ball joint replaces and the cost -$1300. Does it seem right to you guys ? Dealer says even the alignment has to be done while replacing ball joint.

Is it advantageous to get snow tires for my car since I live in midwest ? I met with an accident this year during winter - eventhough I was hitting the brakes the car did not stop - it was fish tailing.

Thanks,
Viz

terry79 · November 2003

viz, my 1998 740i sounds just like your 528i. It also has 65000 miles and has been a real money pit, the lastest thing being the center tie rod. The dealer wanted $400 to replace it. I bought the part for $160 and changed it myself. Borrowed a ball joint seperator tool from auto zone. As for the alighment I counted the threads on the old tie rod and left the same amount on the new piece. Also measured the distance between the inside tire threads. It drives fine and will have an alignment with new tires in about 5000 miles. Adding insult to injury the neck of the radiator broke the next day blowing anti-freeze every which way. The a/c compressor is making noise and they say it is tearing up internally. They want $1356 for that.I could tell you more but I hate to see a grown man cry. Can't wait to get my Lexus.

viz · December 2003

I cannot agree with you more. Whatever you mentioning is happening with my car. I want to take it near by procare to get the ball joint fixed. What do you think ?

Considering Lexus ? I am struggling to decide between Lexus, Benz and BMW for lease.

terry79 · December 2003

Not familiar with procare but if they can save you a few bucks over dealer service and they know what they're doing, why not. If I had megabucks every time my 740 needed fixing I'd bring it in. I worked hard, saved my money and bought the car of my dreams. It was a little of a strech for me at $50000(demo with 5000 miles). It is a great ride and love the car. I expected the usual wear and tear but not major repairs especially since it has been dealer maintained and not driven hard. In hindsight a lease would have been better and may be the better option on any high price performance car unless money is no object when it comes to expensive repairs. In your case I would drive them all and see what floats your boat.Good luck

robphelan · December 2003

i have a 1999 540 and my DSC module went out. I'm tired of looking at the warning light. Is there a fuse for the warning lamp? If so, where and which fuse?

thanks,
robster.

dantlo · December 2003

robphelan, I had the DSC module replaced at around 54000 miles on my 99 540i also under CPO warranty and it would have caused me around $1000 according to the service advisor. I am not sure if replacing a fuse would get rid of the warning lamp though.

Dan

warthog · December 2003

Every week or two when I reach my car ('03 530iA) in the office parking lot the trunk lid will be unlatched. This happens only at the office. Today, I went to the car and found the sunroof open and all windows down. It was raining, of course. Apparently there was no harm this time. However, I would not like for this to happen again. It's remotely possible that I'm causing this by absent-minded fiddling with the key in my pocket, but I doubt it since it doesn't happen at home or elsewhere, where the car is considerably closer to me than at the office. Has anyone had a similar experience? Assuming that someone in a nearby office has the same frequency as my car, can the dealer change it?

vifiver · December 2003

Has anyone successfully installed one of these air deflectors on their car? I purchased one from Bavarian Autosport last summer and installed it on my '01 530i. Several months later, I noticed that the rubberized lining was being pulled up at one end by the fastening clip. I removed the whole thing and had it stored away until my recent dealership visit for the Schedule 1 Maintenance. Apparently, BMW also sells a similar air deflector. One of the BMW techs told me he would not be able to install my deflector until I obtained a special silicone caulk. He said he was going to have to remove the entire rubber lining, install the air deflector clips, apply the silicone, then replace the rubber lining. I am a little alarmed at hearing all this because the instructions that came with the deflector from Bavarian Autosport claimed that it was a simple procedure, with no mention of having to remove the rubber lining. Any suggestions?

rlgoldstein · December 2003

I also had a mysterious dead battery. It turned out to be a "master electrical" board.

The dealer showed me a "bulletin" from the factory recalling this part. He replaced it and everything is fine.

I own a 1997 BMW 528i.

george94 · December 2003

I didn't have the exact same problems, however, all my windows would open a touch and the driver seat would move mysteriously. When I started paying attention to it I discovered this only happens occasionally after I opened my car via the remote key. The dealer had the driver seat control module and the driver side door lock assembly replaced. Apparently the remote control on the door assembly was faulty. I had not have the same problems but this was done only 3 weeks ago. My car is also 03 530 5spd, PP, SP. These electronics drive me crazy. Makes me wonder what the folks with 04 e60 have to go thru..

Good luck.

ny540i6 · December 2003

Hi all. I think I saw a post here on this subject previously. I am owned by a 2003 540I, since May 30. We are now around 18K on the clock, and the one issue that I have is a creaking from the windows when fully shut. If I back them down a fraction it goes away. I have had this on my list for the two times the car has been to the dealer (first service at 14K, and an early clutch problem), however it has not been addressed. Could I simply lube this away? If so, with what?

The other issue is more a curiousity than anything else. When I picked my car up my DRL's were activated (using hi-beams on low power, car has Xenons, if it matters). Through some combination of idiocy and key manipulation (turned from "off" to "run" without starting a few times - I think) I managed to shut them off. Now I want to know if there is a simple way to turn them back on, and if I could change the look to be the "Angel Eyes" that are the parking lights on the car. Thanks in advance.

drglft · December 2003

We had an interesting problem we thought weveryoen might like to learn about. A month or so ago we had a mysterious set of indications. The airbag fault light illuminated, but dimly, not at full brightness. In addition athe controls for the sound system and the cruise control would not work. After driving the car for 1/2 hour or so, the symptoms would disappear, slowly and one at a time. The dealer had the vehicle four times and replaced the slip ring twice and the air bag control module once. It turned out to be the ignition switch itself. At the end of this experience, I am happy I purchased the extended warranty.

infinitimn · December 2003

Thanks for the info on your ignition switch problem. What year/model BMW had the problem?

onebonsaiguy · December 2003

I recently picked up a non CPO 99 540ia w/ PP last summer. Everything has been running fine until recently when we experienced 2 anomalies:

1. All the computer settings seem to have been reinitialized...everything went back to "0" including ave speed, mph, timers, etc. This has happened twice; car continues to drive fine...the settings start recalculating again but I'm a bit worried about an electrical short. Note that the radio settings were maintained...even down to the echo settings, etc.

2. While driving, the radio seems to have gone out, then all console lights including ABS, light, etc seem to have lit up for a split second....then the console lights turn off and radio comes back. Almost as if the engine was getting ready to die but came back. Again, pointing to some sort of electrical problem.

Overall, the car drives great...like no other i've driven before (it also has a Dinan S2 suspension, CAI, S2 software -- which makes it difficult to keep it below 80!) but potential electrical probls on a non cpo car w/ mods have me seeing dollars down the drain!

Anyone out there seem issues like these before?

manybmws · December 2003

I had BMW replace the door/window seals in my 99. Fixed the noises.

viz · December 2003

Hi,
I own a BMW 528i 1998 model. It has 67000 miles on it and after 4 year warranty I have already spent $4000 or more on it for replacement of parts and check ups. I have one more issue now- ball joint to be replaced for 1300. Please advise on the following:

1) Do you guys see any major problems with vehicle in next 20,000/30,000 miles or so ? What are the problems that would crop up during this phase and how much would they cost ?

2) If the repair costs are going to be exhorbitant, I would like to sell this car and lease a 2003-525 but I hate to get rid of my present car. Infact I lose around $3000 when I sell my car to the dealer.
3) 2003 -525 with 5000 miles is available for 40,000; cold weather package,leather etc. Is it a fair price ?

Thanks,
Viz

div2 · December 2003

I take it that you are using the dealer for your service/repairs? No wonder you've spent over $4000. Are you using your CCA discount? My BMW independent shop performed the Inspection II on our 1997 528iA at 66476 miles and the cost was $441. That price also included front pads, one tie rod, an alignment, and a new fuel filter. I spent $963 over the next 31600 miles. I replaced the following parts: a trunk lock actuator($44), a radiator vent hose fitting($2), a P/S hose($140), a windscreen washer pump($31), the A/C belt($35), and several bulbs($30). Everything except the P/S hose was an extremely simple DIY procedure. I also replaced the front pads and rotors($350). Over the past 3.75 years and 52000 miles my service/repair costs have averaged $56 per month. That doesn't include the cost of my winter tire/wheel package($642 including BMW OEM wheel covers). I do plan to have the dealer replace my A/T fluid and final drive oil at 100000 miles, but the cost will be less than $300. By then I'll also need to replace the OEM Michelin all-seasons, but I don't anticipate spending over $400. Since my annual service/repair costs are running under $700 I simply can't justify buying a new BMW in order to "save" money on upkeep. We'll probably keep the sled until we can get a nice CPO X3-unless I can convince my wife that she REALLY needs an EVO VIII or an STi...

bmiz · December 2003

I have been reading and comparing problems owners have reported on these cars. Though the BMW's are having their problems,it seems these are mostly maintenance issues and the usual new model year bugs.It seems minor compared to what MB owners are dealing with.Several have posted they are in litigation, trying to give their vehicles back due to SEVERE electrical problems.Does anybody know if these problems have been resolved, or would it be better to hold off on a Mercedes purchase? Are there any E60's with severe problems?

syku · December 2003

My 4 month old '03 525 is having some issues.
1. The passenger side seat belt gets stuck often. I have to cut the ignition and play with the belt to get it to work properly. Any solution to this?

2. The front passenger seat has a very noticeable vibration when it is empty. Any reason why?

3. The head rest on the front passenger seat is stuck in the high position and it won't come down. The switch is not working. Is there a way to bring it down manually for the time being?

4.The switch that makes the front passenger seat move forward and backward gets stuck too. You press the switch to make the seat move a bit forward or back and the seat keeps going. The switch needs a gentle tap in the opposite direction to stop this. Very annoying. My car pool buddy really got scared when it first happened. He thought he was going to be sandwiched between the dash board and the seat:)

5. The switch for the fan (heating/cooling) also gets stuck when I press on one end. It needs a gentle tap on the other end to stop it.

One of my friends suggested to spray the switches with W-40. Is this a good idea? Would it cause any damage? I'm taking it back to the dealer one of these days for sure.

It is a great driving machine. But I wish, BMW would pay a bit more attention to these kind of stuff too.

viz · December 2003

Hello,
How do we find out whether a BMW 1998 528i has a sports package ?

Thanks,
Viz

russe · January 2004

Is there an owners' club for the 740i somewhere on this web site?

russe · January 2004

My 1994 740i presently has about 118,000 miles on it. Over the 6 years that I have owned it, it has been in for repairs at least 20 times which has cost me more than $20,000 (including 2 transmission replacements)

Have any of you other 5 or 7 series drivers ever had bad luck such as this or is my car just a total lemon?

russe · January 2004

As a follow up to my previous post, other problems that I have had with my 740i include:

Transmission replaced (1st time at 64000 miles)
Transmission replaced (2nd time at 114,000 miles)
Tranny fluid replaced twice ($250 each time)
Air conditioning condenser replaced
Air conditioning evaporator replaced
Air conditioning line replaced
A/C coolant replaced 3 times and topped up twice
Radiator repaired several times
Radiator replaced
Radiator coolant replaced numerous times
Wiper motor replaced
Both front stabilizer rods and vanes replaced
Both valve cover gaskets replaced
Main Water pump replaced
All four brake rotors and pads (at least 4 times)
Tie rod end replaced
Both front body strut bars and bushings replaced
Wheel alignment (done twice)
Stereo repaired
Drive shaft centre bearing replaced
Drivers power seat motor and switches repaired
Electric auxilliary water pump replaced
Several heater hoses replaced
Transmission oil cooler replaced
Coolant hose to trans oil cooler replaced
Upper and lower rad hoses replaced
Oil filter bracket repaired (severe oil leak)
Thermostat housing replaced
Thermostat replaced twice
Both fuel filters replaced
Spark plugs replaced
Steering wheel locking mechanism replaced
Shifter linkage needed realignment
Windshield replaced
Extensive body work and painting done due to rust
Battery replaced
Air filter replaced twice
Microfilter replaced twice
Have bought 3 sets of new tires for car
Numerous problems with windshield wipers
Almost every light on car replaced at least once
Fuel gauge light doesn't work - not fixed yet
Hood latch always sticks so hood hard to open
Trunk lock sticks constantly - not fixed yet
Rear door handles don't retract in cold weather
Glove box opens by itself on bumps - not fixed
Exhaust system leak - not fixed yet
Centre link shot - not fixed yet
One ball joint needs replacing - not fixed yet
Drivers power seat broken again - not fixed yet
Air bag light on all the time - not fixed yet
Power lumbar supports on both seats broken
Rear seat fold down console hinges broken
Drivers seat armrest mechanism broken
Power steering wheel adj. works intermittently

Looking at the above litany of problems you might think that I am hard on the car and/or don't maintain it properly. Nothing could be further from the truth. I am 51 years old, the car is not driven hard, and every required BMW inspection and oil change has been performed at the required times since the car was new. The car has full documentation to verify this.

I also own an old 533i (that has had its share of problems too) but I really will think twice before ever buying another BMW (that's if I want to stay married!). They are terrific cars to drive but I'm starting to wonder whether the superiority of so-called "German engineering" is really just an often repeated myth! Have any of you other 5 or 7 series drivers ever had problems such as I have experienced or is my car just a total lemon? I await your thoughts on this.

div2 · January 2004

Well, remember that you are dealing with a complex ten year old car that cost over $60K new. It also sounds like you use a dealer for service-your costs would likely be 40%-50% less if you used a good independent shop. As for your repair record, only a few things strike me as abnormal-the two A/T failures seem premature(they will usually go at least 100K miles), as does the A/C work, and the trans cooler. Most of the other work you listed I would consider normal for most any car of that age and mileage-brakes, exhaust, hoses, filters, suspension parts, and T-stats. Why did the windscreen need to be replaced? How long do you expect a battery to last? Spark plugs? Light bulbs? My Club Sport track rat is going on it's fourth set of tires at 84K, while my wife's 98K E39 is still rolling on the OEM Michelins(and BTW, it takes new pads every 25K and rotors every 50K. Sticking latches and door handles? Just tonight I set aside 10 minutes and lubed them myself. Loose glove box door? Adjust the latch, for gosh sakes. I also think that your dealer may be throwing parts at some problems rather than analyzing the actual cause of the failure or problem. The service/repair costs for my Club Sport have averaged less than $500/year over eight years, while the E39 costs are @$1000/year over the past three years. 7er costs will be a bit more, but certainly not over $2000/year. Hint: Find a good independent, buy the Bentley manual- http://www.bentleypublishers.com/product.htm?code=B794&subjec- - t=4 -and fix the fiddly minor problems yourself.

low_ball_88 · January 2004

This seems to be typical for German vehicles. Some of these problems you are having still exists today in the new vehicles. I was really interested in purchacing the 2004 530i but may decide on a Japanese vehicle instead. I guess I have to give up the performance for reliablity. I guess if I am paying that kind of money to maintain a vehicle, I would most definitely look at Japanese cars. My 13 year old Accord has an approximate total of $3000 ($230/yr) in maintenance/major repair costs.

div2 · January 2004

I stuck a wrong number into my 5er's maintenance spreadsheet; the annual service cost for the E39 is $793-deduct the cost of my dedicated winter tire/wheel package and the annual cost is $580.

div2 · January 2004

Let's see, I can drive/track/maintain my Club Sport for 1.37/day
OR
I can drive/maintain a 13 year old FWD family sedan and pocket the princely sum of:

I hope you're sitting down....

SEVENTY FOUR CENTS PER DAY!!!!!!!!!!!

And as for my 5er? I REALLY feel silly; for the past three years I've been driving the finest sedan in the world(according to Automobile, Autocar, Car, Car and Driver, and Road&Track) when I could have been tootling about in a 1991 Honda! And I would have saved enough money to buy a Happy Meal almost EVERY DAY! Boy, am I depressed.

low_ball_88 · January 2004

The annual cost to operate my Honda includes tires (4 sets of tires), oil change, tire rotation, 2 timing belt changes, etc. It includes EVERYTHING! So with your cost of 793/yr. You can now supersize your happy meal while you are waiting for your car being serviced.

div2 · January 2004

You've got me! I am absolutely green with envy. I can't fight it any longer-I'm putting the 5er up for sale tonight! I can only hope and pray that somehow, somewhere, there's a clean 1991 Accord out there waiting for me...

ny540i6 · January 2004

OK, I have seen the light. Out goes the 5. No sale necessary. I am actually gonna leave it out on bulk garbage pick up day... irony is that I DID once own an Accord coupe, 5 speed... nice car, but if I only had known!

BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles