BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

wchrisa · June 2004

No answer, but my 545i was not factory prepped for Satellite Radio and the dealer is telling it can NOT be installed in an integrated fashion after the fact other than through a radio signal to the AM/FM (like a rental car). Does anyone know the facts on this? I really want it, but don't want the screw up the iDrive. HELP!!

jas · June 2004

This issue may have been fully covered, but a here are my 2-cents worth on tires:

BMW's, since the beginning of time, on the sport packages have a angle to the tire (forget the exact term) that can easily be seen by looking at the rear. This is great for handling, but bad for tire wear. With the rim size and tire clearance setup on the sport packages you are typically limited to the Z-rated tires that are extremely soft - resulting in 25k miles (8000 miles IS a problem). I ran into this on my wifes Volvo 850 turbo. I was able to go to a +1 tire size and get a all-season Michelin tire that goes 50k miles (she does not need the handling).
Further, these Z tires can not be switched left-to-right (uni-directional) and in some cases the rear tires are a different size from the fronts.
I checked out the tire options before ordering my 545i and from what I can tell you are stuck with a Z rated tire - not sure I would want to change anyways, I am buying this car for it's handling.
I did find that the Michelin A/S has a higher treadwear rating than the factory Dunlops. Also a recommendation from my local tire dealer is that they are putting alot of Yokahama's on the Bimmers. They are a good value ($/mile)- they have a higher treadwear rating than the factory tires and the price is substantially lower than the Michelins. The wet and dry road friction ratings seem to be decent. A buddy of mine has just installed them on his 540i and seems to be happy.
So, bottom line is the BMW sport package is designed for handling even though most of us are comuting in it, and the price you pay is tire replacement.

jas · June 2004

I could not agree with you more - reiz.
When it comes to engine and transmission, I cut the recommended maintenance in 1/2. Probably overkill, but I keep a vehicle 10 years. Case-in-point: my 90 blazer had 200k miles, towed a boat for 20% of it's life and still had a solid transmission (except for torque converter change at 198) and did not burn oil - and that was an American vehcile - completely different class than my Bimmer.
The cold start and driving style (start/stop, hills...) also has alot to do with it.

cassidym · June 2004

jas, I'm also contemplating a 545I (probably wait till the 2005's are available) and am worried about the tires as well. Like you say, I'm buying the car for its handling but will use it mostly for commuting (50 miles a day in Northern Virginia). The weather gets just sloppy enough here in Winter to make driving a car with this sort of power and performance tires a concern. Plus I have no room to store a separate set of wheels and tires.

Do you know how the Michelin A/S does in the snow?

One of the rationales I'm using to talk myself into this purchase is this: If you get the Z rated tires but do buy a separate set of wheels and winter tire and run those from Nov to April, you are actually extending the life of the Z-rated tires since you only be on them half the year. Okay, it's not rock solid reasoning but it is helping me talk myself into a six-speed 545.

What options do you plan on getting?

riez · June 2004

cassidym... You can afford a $60,000 545i but can't afford to store a set of tires?

If you get a 545i6, in your area you should be driving summer tires in spring-summer-fall and dedicated snow tires in winter. Don't skimp on mediocre all-season tires. (If you go down the skimping road, why buy a 545i6? Will you skimp on gasoline, oil, fluids, etc.? Don't try to save a few bucks this way. If you need to do that, then buy a less expensive car. Say a 330i.)

jas · June 2004

cassidym, fortunately I now live on the left coast, so snow is not an issue and when it is I take the Yukon. My brother-in-law in WI does the two sets of tires on his Lexus. The problem is finding low profile all-weather tires. In his case, his winter tires have a smaller rim size. I agree with your justification of the investment in the winter tires extend the life of your summer ones. I am not really crazy about down grading the look of the car for winter though.

I have not fully researched the tires, but I wanted to get a good idea of what I was in for before I purchased - after the dealer said the stock tires last about 20-25k.

The Pilot Sport A/S is an all weather tire and available in the 245/40 & 275/35 18's (which are on the 545 sport package). This would solve your winter/summer problem without having a second set of tires.

I was interested in them since they have a treadwear of 400 instead of 200 or so for the factory Dunlops or 220 for the Pilot Sport. You do knock down 1 point on the handling but they are better in wet conditions and are more quiet. Since I am not driving on a race track, it seems to be a pretty good tradeoff between increased life and traction in the elements with minimal change in handling. And, with everybody talking about noisy tires, I am thinking this may be the route I go for replacement.

I am not sure if this tire is a 'run-flat' like the factory, but I am willing to live with the risk.

I am not sure about the Yokohama's. The ones I had looked at where not an all-weather tire, but they had a treadlife of 280 which is better than the sport michelins or dunlops. It is possible that there are other tire options out there.

If I was in your shoes, I would try the Pilot A/S and not worry about switching tires/rims every 6 months. Besides, I think the 545 sport rims are the best in the series, but that is just personal opinion.

FYI - I have a set of SUV michelin pilot sport M/S on my Yukon and although it is not nearly as aggressive of a pattern as my old 4x4 tires (BF Goodrich A/T), I was extremely impressed with the traction. You can also 'sipe' the tires which DOES void the tire warranty, but is supposed to help with snow. I would talk to someone at Discount tires (Americas tire company in CA). Don't let the name fool you, I have gotten some really good info from these guys. I am not sure about the adverse affects of 'siping' on a performace tire that does not run flat on the pavement but they could probably tell you. I think if you couple this tire with your traction control system, you will be fine.

If you do not get your questions answered, they have a facility right next to my office and I would be happy to do some further research if needed, as I will have to do this eventually.

I was going to wait for the 2005's but since they will probably not be delivered until November (545's) I went ahead with a 2004 order. I am not getting Navigation or satelite, so 2005 was not a big concern as I think these are the only upgrades you will see. Besides, I liked the current rims and I did not want to run the risk of them changing.

Since I have been seriously looking at them since January, the waiting is killing me. August 15th is the date.

Good Luck.

jas · June 2004

FYI - riez has a very good point about mediocre All Season tires. You don't want to wreck a car by saving a few bucks.

Just from experience, and granted my SUV tires where on a different vehicle, when I go to the snow, it is to the mountains with steep hills/turns and traffic and it snows in feet, not inches. I think I had better traction in all aspects from my high-end michelins than a very, very aggresive A/T tire. I did sipe these tires and I have no idea how much impact this actually had.

I also do not know how much you loose in handling with the All-Season version. According to michelins ratings, it is only 1 point (out of 10) lower.

You can go to the michelin website and get all the detailed specs. Don't type in your car, just search on tires. For some reason, michelin will not say they have a tire for your car, which may have something to do with the run-flat feature.

I know I should boycott French products, but when it comes to tires, they have some of the best.

riez · June 2004

- Road salt, ice, winter grime, etc. are hard on alloy wheels. Buying a cheap set of steel wheels is a better deal than ruining a good set of alloy wheels.

- Taller, narrower tires actually work best in snow. So downgrading a size is best. And they are less expensive. Never upgrade (Plus Size) winter tires!

- Don't think anyone needs a WINTER speed rating in excess of 130 miles. So H-rating fine. If anyone out there is driving over 130 mph in winter, may God have mercy on you and the other drivers around you. (Can't say I think anyone should drive more than 90 or 100, tops, in winter. Rock, sand and other winter road debris can really do a number on your windows!!!) Save any high speed driving for the right seasons. You have the rest of the year to put the car thru its paces. Winter is all about getting through without ending up in a ditch or being rear ended by someone else.

Dedicated winter tires are best in their season. Dedicated summer tires are best the other three seasons. Treat yourself and your car right. Buy and drive the right tires year round.

manybmws · June 2004

Pilot Sport A/S is what I use other than winter time on 17" BMW wheels. Great tire - ride, handling, longevity, quietness - all with very good handling. In fact I recommended them to a family member with a new 545i on BMW 18" wheels, and it is great also.

Work unbelievably well in the rain. I have tried them in light snow but was not overwhelmed. I use Michelin Pilot Alpins on BMW 16" wheels in the winter. I have not had any winter problems in 5 years driving two different E39s - one with DSC and one without.

cassidym · June 2004

Thanks everyone for the excellent advice. Based on your inputs, I plan on getting a separate set of 16 or 17 inch rims and putting a set of Michelin Pilot Alpines on for the Winter. I live in Northern Virginia where we don't get lots of snow (some years virtually none) but we do get enough slop that, combined with my daily 50-mile round trip around the dreaded Beltway, having the proper tires is damn important.

New subject: anyone got any idea what changes the 5-Series will get? Someone mentioned Nav and Satellite radio. I assume this is not an upgrade to these options but merely the fix that will avoid the interference that now prevents the two from operating together.

dl7265 · June 2004

Um , my friends former (totaled last week) 1994 318ic had the same problems. As I recall the switch was replaced twice, however I belive there was short in the lamp assembly.

sorry couldn't be more assistance.
DL

jas · June 2004

2005 changes - I was trying to find out this info to make the decision of whether to wait for 2005 or buy now: basically, any info from the dealers is a guess and BMW will not give out any info regarding 2005.

The known changes I have heard are - with the nav and satillite which are really a fix. Possibly the little reflectors in the rear bumper which where a DOT issue (right now there is a black piece of plastic). Also, I don't think the bluetooth phone capability has been resolved yet.

Each dealer/salesperson has an opinion. Here is what I have compiled from talking with various dealers in trying to make the 2004/2005 decision. Again, this is info from dealers not my opinions:

Typically, there are not many changes after the first year, fixes if required and possibly a color upgrade - not many people like the copper color and they need a red.

Supposidly, there has not been many service issues except for nav and satelite, so there is not any major problems being fixed.

They change rims alot - some people say every year, some say every other year. The dealers have said the car is so new, that the rims will probably stay - it depends on the consumer feedback.

The 2005 pricing and I would assume product info are supposed to be out in mid July. They expect a price increase due to the euro/$ exchange.

BMW shuts down in August, 2005 build starts in September. 545's are the last to be built after 525/530's, so first 545 deliveries are expected in late November.

If you want nav and satelite or if you are going to lease, then it is better to wait. If not, use the savings for your winter tires.

mseals528 · June 2004

Hey guys, my car was hit between the gas refill cap and the rear door about two weeks ago. It has been in the collision shop for 2 weeks now and they say they won't be done for another 3 business days. Since the accident the car won't stay running and the check engine light came on. I was wondering if you guys knew of anything with the damage that might cause this problem. The car was hit in a parking lot, but the damage pushed the car in about 6 inches and it runs about 2 ft long into the rear passenger door as well. They are replacing the rear quarter panel and the rear passenger door.

johnmlannon · June 2004

I just picked this bad boy last night and love it. Question: Does anyone know whether there are special cd's to be bought and used to utilize the upgraded "Logic 7" system... If so, What knd ?

Thank you.

janritch · June 2004

I had the same"Passenger Restraint-System" light show up about 3 days ago. I too own the 2004 530i. The service center can not get to my car until June 30th.(Not Pleased about this) We leave on July 1st for vacation.(Driving)Did you get your's repaired and what was it? Sounds as though this is a "quirk" with this model.Thanks,Janet

jas · June 2004

Congrats on the new 545-6. Mine was just built last week, so I have another 4-5 weeks to wait - it is killing me!

The Logic 7 is a Harmon Kardon processing algorithm that takes standard 2 channel audio and produces surround sound. It actually also takes surround sound 5.1 and produces 7.1. Supposedly it provides better clarity to the audio.

I think right now most cd's are still 2 channel but I have heard that they are starting to produce surround sound cd's.

So, any cd you put in will sound better (according to HK).

You can get more info on the system at: http://manuals.harman.com/HK/Technology%20Articles/logic7-TechShe- et.pdf

If you find out anything more, I would be interested.

manybmws · June 2004

I happen to own an HK surround sound receiver at home. Logic 7 is a DSP-based algorithm that takes standard 2-channel stereo and enhances it through analog signal processing to produce a "surround sound" effect. So standard CDs should be benefit.

richterp · June 2004

We experienced the same thing on our last 5 series but only after it was almost May 17th for this issue and has only 7K miles and we were told the tires should last for 35,000 miles and shouldn't be rotated now. The dealer told us to call BMW US to complain but they only log calls annonymously and told us it would be noted for future designs. UNACCEPTABLE! Two dealerships indicated it was a common complaint, sometimes seen with the 7-series but quite frequently with the 5-series. The car rides SOOO loud with this tire noise- almost to where I was embarassed to drive it down the street because people would wonder what the noise was! You'd think we were driving an economy car with problems vs. a well-engineered BMW. The car is only driven several miles to and from work and is in perfect condition...to have this issue on a car this expensive after only 6 months is lame. I'm currently trying to get a response/work with our local dealership (who has sold us two 5 series and an X5 over the past three years...) as well as contact executives at BMW following that conversation, if need be. My Mom purchased our other 5-series from us which we put new tires on prior to selling to her 6 months ago and hers has started doing the same noise again. Not Dunlop tires...so perhaps it's with the 5-series design and the weight/design wear on ANY tire. One posting on bmw-forums noted the regional manager of a local Dunlop tire dealership replaced his tires for him (not BMW). The vehicle was this a.m. and another dealership said it's a frequent complaint caused by, what they suspect, is the front suspension.

richterp · June 2004

Anyone with the money to own a BMW most likely has the education enough to know that tires are a part of maintenance on a vehicle. However, having tires sound as bad as what many posted here are describing - in my case, after 6,000 local miles in only six months -is unacceptable. A manufacturer such as BMW shouldn't be putting cheap tires (Dunlop) on a 530 SP model because obviously they don't mesh with the weight and suspension of the vehicle. (We have several friends with 7-series with more miles and wear who have no issues so perhaps it's a design issue with the 5). Ford learned that lesson the hard way with the Ford Explorer.

It's not the cost of the tires that is an issue. The majority of owners will and do purchase the best and most costly performance tires for their cars. It's having to do so twice a year for the time you own your vehicle. That's something you find no problem doing? Automotive media wouldn't think so in 2005 reviews of this vehicle and I'm sure potential owners wouldn't be keen on the idea either. So, are you on BMW's payroll?

riez · June 2004

richterp... A big issue has been people wanting to use on all-season tires, and being unwilling to use dedicated summer and winter tires.

- I don't think there is anything wrong with Dunlop tires. (Or Michelin. Continental. Bridgestone. Etc.) Most modern tires are very, very good, esp. dedicated summer and winter tires.

- What is the treadwear rating on your tire?

- Tire wear issues are hard to compare. Does the owner keep the tires properly inflated? Is the entire suspension and steering system within specs? What type roads are driven on? How many curbs or potholes have been hit? Etc.

jas · June 2004

Lets try to get to the bottom of this tire thing. I don't have any data as my 545 comes next month, but I am starting to get nervous.

I will try to summarize some data if everybody can respond with the following: Series (525/530/545), tire type, size and treadwear, problem in front/back/both/none, problem started at x-miles.

riez - I don't think the issue is All Season, summer/winter. Granted there is advantages of running a pure winter tire during the bad months. Remember that 25% of us don't have to worry about winter tires. In fact, most of the All Season tires will have better treadwear than a summer tire, which will probably have less problems. Granted, you may give up some handling, but that is not the issue here.

Noting richterp - Michelin Pilot A/S has had good results on a family members 545, so possibly the problem is series related or certain tires are more suseptable to the suspension setup. It should not be.

Tire inflation is important, but it is hard to believe that the tire pressure on so many cars has been out of limits in 6k - 8k miles.

Lets get some data from both good and bad. This may give the people with problems some data to talk to BMW. Is it a design problem or limited to something on a few unfortunate soles either on BMW's part or a specific tire manufacturers part.

riez · June 2004

The "problem", if it really can be called such, is a joint combination of:

1. BMW's aggressive suspension set up. They are designed to handle and handle very, very well. They are NOT designed to maximize tire life.

2. How aggressively and how often/how many miles aggressively the driver drives the car.

3. The type roads driven on.

4. The type tire, esp. treadwear indication. BMWs with Sport Pkgs and Perf Pkg tend to have the most aggressive tires that wear quicker.

These issues aren't just for BMW. My IS300 had about 3 exterior tire wear warnings on it at time of purchase and the brochure had another 3 or 4 footnotes discussing limited tire life. Lexus indicated less than 20K was to be expected, and that is just for wear, not necessarily wear-related noise (the noise comes before the tires are worn out).

odysbmw5 · June 2004

I just had my engine (cylinder 6) coil replaced (under warranty of course) ----but what concerned me was that both the customer service rep of BMW USA and my BMW Service Manager were nonchalant about this. They say this happens often! I have only 13700 miles and am a very careful driver.

Could this problem continue on the other cylinders? Should I ask BMW to cover me now for 100000 miles and not the 50k miles?

This happened on the next day after my oil change-- that is the curious part!!

Worried!! Anyone can shed any similar experience??---

andys120 · June 2004

Relax, replacing a coil is not a major $ deal if it occurs out of warranty. It's usually the result of a manufacturing defect that should show up long before you reach 50k.

It has nothing to do with ho0w carefully you drive. Enjoy your 5er and remember no car is perfect.

odysbmw5 · June 2004

I just had my engine (cylinder 6) coil replaced (under warranty of course) ----but what concerned me was that both the customer service rep of BMW USA and my BMW Service Manager were nonchalant about this. They say this happens often! I have only 13700 miles and am a very careful driver.

Could this problem continue on the other cylinders? Should I ask BMW to cover me now for 100000 miles and not the 50k miles?

This happened on the next day after my oil change-- that is the curious part!!

Worried!! Anyone can shed any similar experience??---

rancher2 · July 2004

I am about to buy a 2002 BMW 530i w/ 27,000 miles on it for $32K. My question is the service record indicates that the previous owner took the car to dealer for "low engine oil light on" and also had the air bag light reset. This is not a C.P.O. so I am worried about major electrical problems down the road. Any advice will be greatly appreciated

div2 · July 2004

I'd relax and take a deep breath if I were you; coil failures on the M50/M52/M54 engine family aren't unheard of, but they aren't exactly a common occurrence either. My wife's 104K mile 1997 528iA work hack has never had a coil replaced. While your coil failed a bit late for it to be termed an infant mortality, it is unlikely that you'll experience any more coil failures. In any event, you can pick up a new coil for under $70 and install it yourself in 20 minutes-I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.

div2 · July 2004

BMWs have had problems with oil level sensors going back to the E28. OTOH, if the owner took the car in because the nitwit lacked the mental capacity to check the oil manually... As for the SRS light, it would be helpful to know what fault was being detected. The two most common faults are the sensor in the seat belt buckle and the sensor in the bottom seat cushion. For what it's worth, my brand new 1995 Club Sport threw an SRS code on my third day of ownership. The dealer's MODIC identified the problem as the passenger seat belt sensor. I never got around to having the buckle replaced and in nearly nine years and 91K miles the problem has never returned. That said, I'd recommend having the vehicle inspected by a qualified BMW tech. While I doubt the tech will find any problems, I think it would be worth it simply for your peace of mind. Remember that the key to a reliable BMW is proper maintenance. Change the oil as indicated using BMW Synthetic or Mobil 1 0W-40. Change the BMW coolant every three years, and change the brake fluid every two years using a good DOT4 fluid such as ATE Super Blue or Castrol LMA. Needless to say, perform all other inspection services as called for. Change the ATF(if so equipped) every 80K-100K miles. The final drive and manual gearbox oils should be changed at least every 100K miles unless you track the car, in which case I'd change them out every 60K.

warthog · July 2004

I have a 2003 530iA, 12k miles. I live in central NC, where summertime highs are high 80's to mid-90's. When I drive in city traffic the A/C is worthless, or worse. Sometimes it seems to blow air that's hotter than the outside air, if that's possible. After a few sustained minutes at 40 mph or better it gets cool, but in heavy traffic that doesn't happen. Is this problem endemic to the car or do I have a problem?

Thanks.

div2 · July 2004

Check the refrigerant level as well as the operation of the auxiliary fan. The fan can sometimes get jammed with leaves and other debris. The A/C in my wife's 1997 528iA has no problem coping with +95F temperatures regardless of vehicle speed.

nomore · July 2004

I have an E60 545i 2004. Brand new, delivered in Feb 04. I live in a cool, dry climate. Air conditioner smells like puke. After having the car serviced, which included spraying the system twice with disinfectant by the dealer (once with the official BMW repair kit), it now smells like perfumed puke. The dealer is aware of this problem in other models as well. I think it's caused by a faulty design which does not allow for the system to drain after usage. BMW thinks they're adding humidity. I think they've insured persistent mold. Why would I want to pay 60k to have toxic mold blown into my face? I hope BMW addresses this problem soon. Next week, the evaporator is being replaced. Anyone else experiencing the same thing?

rancher2 · July 2004

Dear Div2
Thank you very much for very valuable information. It sounds like you really know BMW. I really appreaciate that. I am going to buy the car now. It sounds like sensors are the problem, and that is not a big deal.

george94 · July 2004

I own MY2003 E39 530 I also experienced the A/C smell. At the beginning I could not believe it was my brand new car that smelled this way (i could never smelled it inside the cabin, though). I was at denial until my wife commented on it while walking in the garage one day. Anyway, this is my 2nd summer and the smell seemed to resolve itself. It went away on its own. No service related to this issue was ever performed. I live in NE and don't use the A/C all year around. If you do a search on this subject here you will find out you are not alone and many other people experienced the same problem indeed. You will also be able to locate some workarounds although I never did them myself. Good luck.

manybmws · July 2004

Make sure center vent control is on neutral or towards blue.

cargirl525 · July 2004

Hey Gang-

I just got my 2004 525 and, every time I turn on the car, there is a warning on the screen that I have to push down on the I-drive controller to get rid of (basically warning you not to use the navigation system while you are driving). Is there anyway to stop the system from doing that? Also, whenever you take off your seatbelt, the bell rings and rings, and rings, until you put it back on. Is there any way to turn that off after the initial warning?

jbarrow · July 2004

A recent tip in Roundel suggests the only way to prevent the smell is to turn the A/C off for the last few minutes that the car is being driven each time it is driven.

magic04 · July 2004

I have a 2001 530i that the air conditioner is not working. The display works, but no air is coming out and the fan will not come on. Heater doesn't work either I checked the fuses in the glove box, but did not find one that was for the AC blower. Can anyone tell me where the fan blower fuse is or is there something else I can check?

cmr530i · July 2004

Your A/C problem sounds similar to what I went through not long after delivery of my 2001 530i. I bought it new, tried all the different suggestions from the dealer to get it to work, to no avail. The problem turned out to be the auxiliary fan. It was replaced under a recall for 5 series made within a certain time period.
Could it be that the problem is resurfacing? It would be worth looking into your aux fan to see if it is functioning properly. I haven't had an issue with mine since it was replaced.

warthog · July 2004

Thanks, cmr, I'll ask the dealer about that.

jjohnjohn · July 2004

Hello All, I am tired of the looks of my 1998 528i and thinking about upgrading some cosmetics. Does anyone know if I can install the Xenon headlights seen on the later models such as 2002-2003 for my car? $$? Also, how much would 17 inch M rims cost? new vs, used? I currently have the BBS mags, but looks a little outdated now. Any other suggested rim designs. I think the M rims look awesome on the 5 series. Thanks people. - john

jas · July 2004

John,

Not sure about the lights, if you don't get a response, I would check with a dealer. I am sure it is possible.

I looked into the various BMW rims, which I think they have some of the best options (typically in the upper $300's to low $400's per wheel). You can get a BMW wheel catalog from a dealer - it is about a 1/4" thick and has all of the BMW wheels and applications - which is alot.

If you have a style number you can call a boneyard to see what their price is (If they exist in any boneyard, they can usually obtain them) but it might not be a significant savings. Chances are it will be hard to find somebody upgrading their M rims. Not sure where you live, but there is a California selling website you can search (www.recycler.com)- search on BMW wheels. Good Luck.

lovemyclk · July 2004

You may wish to check your local high-end wheel/tire upgrade shops. There is always someone exchanging OEM wheel/tire combos for something outrageous! You may find that they can hook you up.

Here in Atlanta, Butler Tire resells OEM combos...

manybmws · July 2004

get a nice set of BMW wheels and tires.

ryanm · July 2004

For the past year and a half, I've been having a strange, intermittent problem with my car. Every now and then, it will start acting up for 1-3 days, during which, the tachometer will get stuck up around 3 or 4 rpm and my car will feel as though it's locking up. The car also makes a loud revving noise when this happens. I will take my foot off of the gas, but nothing happens. I have to hit the brakes hard in order to release the car. Sometimes when this problem is happening, the tachometer will jump up to 3 or 4 rpms as soon as I turn on the engine. Other times it just happens as I'm driving, sometimes at 30-40 mph, other times at 60-70 mph. The car will act up for a day or so and then may be fine for the next few months. Then one day, it will happen again. I've taken the car in to two different BMW dealerships and they can't find anything wrong. They say the transmission is fine and that the onboard computer isn't reporting any problems. However, I know I'm not crazy because I've had plenty of passengers in the car with me who have experienced this. I am at a loss as to what could be causing this and what I can do about it. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. -RyanM

warthog · July 2004

The poor A/C performance in city traffic was indeed a faulty auxiliary fan. Fixed under warranty.

shipo · July 2004

Hmmm, I don't know why, but my gut tells me that you may have a problem with your cruise control. I don't know if it has a separate circuit breaker/fuse, but if it does, you might want to pull the breaker/fuse to see if the problem is eliminated.

Best Regards,
Shipo

vsaxena · July 2004

DSP = Digital Signal Processing.
But you go one to say that it "enhances it through analog signal processing". Am I missing something here?

jas · July 2004

I don't have a real solution for your problem, but an option to seek out. I have run into similar intermittent problems and found that in most cases dealers are worthless. With all of the electrical systems, if the computer does not detect a problem, they don't know how to trouble shoot. Further, the good mechanics usually leave the dealers and go out on their own. I would seek out an independent BMW mechanic that could possibly do some real trouble shooting AND try the suggestions (like shipo recommended). You may have to eliminate some options to get to the real problem.

cmr530i · July 2004

Cool! Literally. Happy to hear the problem was fixed.

rich545 · July 2004

I hear what you're saying about the software muddog. I just brought in my month old 545 for something else (not anything wrong) and there were two recalls, and one was the software upgrade. They gave my a 325i loaner and I felt the same way without active steering. I went real wide around several turns!

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