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Comments
What make/model/size tire was it?
You don't discuss how fast you were travelling, what sort of load (passengers & luggage) you were carrying, outside temperatures, road surface conditionss, tire inflation info, etc. which might be related to your situation.
Most importantly, what was the diagnosed cause? Was it punctured at all by anything? Had it just hit a big pothole at speed? Were you driving long distances at higher speeds in high heat?
Here are some additional details.
The tires are Michelin Radial XSE 225/55R 16 95H M+S.
We were on the interstate at around 10 am about to begin a 200 mile trip. There were 3 people in the car and a couple of medium size bags in the trunk. We didn't hit any kind of pothole or anything in the road. We were riding along talking and then we heard a loud explosion sound. Then the steering wheel shook and we immediately pulled off to the side of the road. That's when I saw the tire had exploded around the rim of the tire.
I was told that these were the original tires when I bought the car.
I'm going to take the tire for someone to review today.
I have a 2000 528iT with 46K miles. Under braking, say approaching a stop light, and hitting a pothole or bump causes the front end to shake violently. It seems like the front end is moving up and down with the steering wheel shaking vigorously. In normal driving, bumps and potholes are swallowed up like they should be. What's disconcerting to me is that when it happens I feel like I have no control over the car. When I took the car in to a BMW dealership, mechanics found all mechanical parts to be fine. Their explanation is that when I hit a bump, ABS kicks in and that's what I am feeling. Does this sound right? Do other owners have similar experience? I have owned other cars with ABSs, but they never kicked in with such intrusive vigor. One complicating factor with diagnosing the problem is that it does not happen all the time, and I have to be braking and hitting decent size potholes just right.
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
If this persists to an annoying degree find a tech who is willing to take a little ride and feel for himself what's going on but I think you're getting the straight scoop.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
1. Roll down the windows
2. Set the temperature to Max., and fan speed to High
3. Get out of the car, and let it run for 10-15 minutes
4. The generated heat should dry up the A/C ducts and release any mold that had accumulated due to cold and high moisture environment
It works, good luck and please let me know if it works. You can repeat this process every couple of months and save yourself painful frequent dealer visits.
My car has a fold-down back seat and I am experiencing a rattle noise from the back seat area, took it to the dealer 5 times w/ no luck. Has anyone experienced a similar problem. It's driving me nuts.
I would hope that the same parts would be available for the 2004 model.
Good luck
If anybody has a 545 produced after May 04, there is a recall for a problematic ECM that just quits. I just found out today that my 545 is sitting in a parking lot at the VPC with a whole lot of V-8 and V-12 BMW's which cannot be delivered until the ECM is replaced. So if you had a problem, there is a fix.
If you are waiting for one, take a number. There is three months worth of production that needs to be replaced.
Also, if anybody was interested in the E60 bumper reflectors (US cars have a black plate, European and European delivery cars have the reflectors), they are available for special order through the Dealer.
Clutch failure - 14K miles
Cupholder broken - 16K
Passenger-side seat belt locking mechanism defective - 22K
Rear bumper - 26K (replaced by insurance as a result of rear-end collision)
Foglight - 31K
All but the clutch (most expensive repair) was covered by warranty. At 32k miles, the car still has the original tires, which should last another 5K miles. The oil was replaced only twice, and Service I was performed at 31K miles.
As you can see the screw is in a precarious spot on the right front tire. Would like to know whether the tire can be salvaged. I've been here before and they always say no, need a new tire. Have 8300 miles on tires. Looks like they can go to 15,000. If the tire can't be repaired should I replace all four or just this one and wait? I know what dealer service is going to say convention says this can't be fixed but I'm not convinced. Would like to hear from people here who have no interest in taking my money. Div2, Riez, Shipo... are you prepared to do your Godfather service? Thanks.
;-)
Keep in mind that every situation is different but a tire dealer initially had told him to just buy a new tire.
http://www.michelinman.com/care/buy_when.html
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/general/punctures.jsp
If replacement is required, you can get away with just buying one tire. That said, if(like me) you are going to make a habit of collecting screws and nails you might want to look at a less expensive tire that are still performs quite well-such as the Kumho Ecsta MX.
Even though the screw didn't penetrate deep enough to cause the tire to leak air, it did penetrate far enough to expose the steel belts to the outside contaminants, insuring that rust will follow, and tread separation after that. I'd advise replacing this tire.
Hope this helps.
Porsche says replace both tires on axle if tread wear exceeds 30%. Not sure if this is recommendation or if it affects warranty. (Div2 came upon this as a result of your links.)
I'm inclined to go with the internal mushroom plug contingent upon tire inspection at least as a temp, then maybe order new set of Kinesis 18" turbo wheels/tires which I've been wanting anyway, keeping full spare to replace donut.
BTW, tire lost 3 lbs of pressure in 1 1/2 days since discovery.
And so begins another great week. Cars shmars.
;-)
Have the tire inspected by a tire expert to see if it can be patched or otherwise repaired.
If you replace the one tire, I'd replace both on the same axle.
Some tire manufacturers don't recommend patches for speed-rated tires. Thinking there are only a few that allow patches, but that once patched, the speed rating goes away.
Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 report:
When I first mounted these 3K mi. ago, I was a little worried that I wouldn't like them as much as my Continental Contisport Contact 2s. They felt "grabby" with noticeably more sidewall flex. Now that I have broken them in a bit and gotten used to them--they are Fantastic! Once warmed up they are highly predictable and almost impossible to break traction. Yes, still slightly more sidewall flex but noticeably more comfortable ride. I really think they needed to get the outside edges softened just a bit. They feel like the perfect tire for the 530i SP setup. Great on wet roads too for a summer tire. No appreciable noise--I mean none(yet)compared to the howling that I was getting from the Contis before I retired them.
The Goodyear Eagle F1s are extremely sensitive to tire pressure (as are most high performance summer tires). In my opinion, they needed 2-3 psi front & back over factory recommendation (32 psi. fronts 35 psi. rear). I tried several variations and this seems to do the trick to minimize sidewall flex.
More than a few E39 M5 owners use the Deluxe Plus for their street pads.
This recommendation comes from my neighbor who is a BMW modification freak and has done alot of mods to his M3: The pads are Hawk HPS (High Performance Street) pads. They are low-dust, rotor friendly and quiet - as well as a huge stopping improvement. Supposidly, they where a little noisy while they broke in, but after a few days they where as quiet as the OEM pads. According to him, they are on the expensive side, but well worth it.
I am thinking of changing my pads just because I HATE brake dust - let me know what other info you find out.
Question to div2 - did you notice this difference with the Axxis?
Secondly, the Hawk HPS is a little higher performance. Dusting is a little bit more but still very tolerable. It is a more high performance pad that will be in between the Axxis and the OEM pads with regard to the initial braking feel, but you need to be more conscious about the bed-in to maintain a good dust level on the rotor to minimize any low speed noise.
E60 owners - Axxis Deluxe Plus are not available at this time and probably won't be for awhile.
I will give them a try as soon as they are available, which may be awhile. For now, I guess I will just have to stock up on a few more used towels.
Let us know what you think of the Ultimates.
probably have them installed on the back brakes as well even though
they prob. don't need servicing yet. Not sure what my BMW service
dept. will say. I wonder if I am better off going to an independent
shop to have the brakes done?
You don't want to make a habit of it, tho. Make sure your clutch pedal is all the way down before you shift
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Much Thanks!
RC
Given roughly the same age and condition I'd get the Bimmer every time but that's not the case here.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Best Regards,
Shipo
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
the only problem is it needs throwout berrings
most of the car looks in good repair(needs a lil paint) good deal or am i getting screwed
Aside from the parts that div2 suggests, you would want to check on the general condition of the engine. Do a compression test, look for oil leaks, check for blow-by etc. Also look for rust-through in the floor, sills and other structural areas (you don't want the car to crumple like a paper bag in an accident). Look carefully at high-ticket components such as suspension, steering linkages, transmission etc. The interior will be a bit beaten up but can you live with the general condition or do you need to replace seats, dash, carpets?
If you can DIY and have a reliable beater for a few hundred $ in parts then it might be a reasonable buy. Bear in mind though that you could be looking at bills that are multiples of your purchase price if you need to have work done on a couple of major components.
Should I repair or replace. Deductible is neglibible so insurance is not an issue.
I have heard that replacing the windshield is not good for the car since the seals can never be as good as before. How far is it true?
However, I do not want a repair which will gradually detoriate in time.
In general, windshield replacement isn't a good thing to do because the windshield is a structural component. From personal experience (good & bad) a lot depends on the know-how of the guy doing the work, particularly with European cars.
You might want to consider the easy route of repair first. If that doesn't work out you still have the option of replacing the windshield. Just my 0.02 though.
I have a new 2004 530 with Nav system. A first time BMW owner and I love it. However, The Voice Command system on the car doesn't work and the salesman tells me I need to have the car phone for it to work. Is this true? If anyone has any info it would be great.
However, if it came down to a rotor issue down the road, I could see them saying that it was the pad that caused the problem.