Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Do you consider the 03/04 4Runner's skid plates heavy duty? Are they comparable to the Jeep Wrangler's, for example?
Secondly, a Lexus mechanic told me last week that the reason why the GX470 has a manual lever for Hi/Lo shifting is because the transfer's case is extremely "beefy". He didn't know for sure, but speculated that the 4Runner's transfer case is not a tough and, therefore, is operated my motors activated by the in-dash electric switch. I am not sure if that makes sense,although I have noticed that Jeeps and Land Rovers have manual Hi/Lo levers.
What has been your experience in being able to switch from Hi to Lo in the 4Runner? Do you need to be in P or N, or can you do it in gear at low speeds?
Does anyone know if there is a difference between the quality/durability of the GX470's transfer case vs. the 4Runner's?
Thanks.
Thanks,
Since I live in New England, I did not consider the 4x2.
I can't really tell you that the AWD system in the T&C was really any help but I can tell you that I was able to maintain travel at or above the speed limit without even the slightest "wiggle".
And I firmly believe the new 4runner AWD system is amongst the best there is.
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
About the only thing that four wheel drive does better than rear wheel drive in rain is prevent you from getting power-oversteer if you hit the gas too hard in a corner. Of course, if you did hit the gas too hard in a rear wheel drive vehicle and had the back step out, you should be competent enough to counter-steer and gather it up -- a couple hours doing donuts in a snow-covered parking lot does wonders for teaching that skill.
And don't forget, with (true) AWD the engine torque is being delivered, divided amongst, four contact patches, not just two. Requiring a more serious level of hydroplanning before spinning out of control.
Enjoy.
http://www.digitalpimp.org/~john/Videos/4Runner%20Stuff/2003%204R- unner/
http://www.digitalpimp.org/~john/Videos/4Runner%20Stuff/Amicalola- %20Falls_Anderson%20Creek%203_03/
Losing traction while accelerating isn't hydroplaning. Yes, 4WD gives better traction while accelerating. Any decent traction control system and stability control system will reduce the chances of losing control while accelerating and cornering. Neither is likely to do anything much of anything about hydroplaning.
Up here in the Northeast, during snowstorms it seems the most common vehicles to have spun out and lost control are, in fact, SUVs. I suspect it is because the excellent traction during acceleration has prevented the drivers from realizing just how slippery it is. So they just drive too fast for conditions. 4WD can't change the coefficient of friction. If the snow covered road will only support 0.4g sideways acceleration around a corner, 4WD isn't going to let you corner at 0.5g -- you'll still end up off the road. And that is just as true for a rain-slick road as it is for a snow-covered road. 4WD won't let you drive faster around the corner nor will it let you brake faster.
4WD will help you accelerate faster in slippery conditions.
*****
However, I agree with your post. Many SUV drivers seem to be over confident in snowy conditions are just are not able to control their vehicles very well. Having a 4wd will almost certainly get an SUV through most snow conditions, but the laws of physics don't change. So, even with 4wd, it may still not be safe to drive in the snow because you have to be on the lookout for other SUV owners who are not experienced in drving in snowy conditions.
And yes, you should be driving straight ahead when you engage or disengage. You should ALWAYS disengage 4WD immediately upon driving onto a high traction surface.
Unless the diff'l locking doesn't use a "dog-clutch", splined shaft, and absent knowing which always refer to rule #1 above.
That certainly implies, at least to me, that we're talking about a true 4WD system (locked center diff'l), not an AWD system (my term for a full time 4WD system, meaning no "locked" center diff'l).
In my 99 LC, 4LO locks the center differential, distributing power to the front vs rear 50/50, and engages the low gear range. This can also be done in full time 4WD (Hi) by pushing the center diff. lock button, but you stay in high gear. Some TLC's also have a rear and/or front differential lock switch, which solidly locks the left and right axles together. Exactly how this works in other Toyotas depends on the year model and setup. A factory 80 series LC with front, center, and rear differential locks could effectively have 4 or 5 different options for 4 WD, depending on the traveling requirements.
As stated many times, do not lock the differentials unless you are on a low traction surface.
93-97 80 series - optional F/R lockers
98 100 series - optional rear locker only
Can't recall when this rear locker option disappeared in favor of a traction control system.
More info on 80 series - www.sleeoffroad.com
IdahoDoug
Bryan
93-97 80 series - optional F/R lockers
98 100 series - optional rear locker only
Can't recall when this rear locker option disappeared in favor of a traction control system.
More info on 80 series - www.sleeoffroad.com
IdahoDoug
I would pose that question to cliffy or idahodoug.
Good luck.
If on a non-slippery surface it's a warning that you're doing something you shouldn't, so STOP.
Never, NEVER, have the vehicle in 4WD in circumstances wherein the wheels cannot slip and thereby relieve the drivetrain stresses arising from a locked diff'l. The only exception is driving straight ahead from one mud puddle to the next mud puddle.
Above does not apply to AWD nor full time 4WD mode.
The Sequoia has two modes in which all four wheels are driven. The first of these, which I prefer to call AWD, does NOT lock ANY diff'l.
This AWD (full-time) mode uses an open center diff'l so that all four wheels are driven when on reasonably good traction surfaces. If any wheel(s) should begin to slip then the brake on that wheel or wheels is moderately applied so that engine torque continues to be apportioned equally, in a rough sense.
In "true" 4WD it is my understanding that the center diff'l is locked and therefore all the cautions and warnings apply.
The earlier post was regarding the system in transition, this, #1289, was simply "on".
I take that to mean either there is a failure as a result of earlier incidents or the vehicle is being driven on a high traction surface in a turn. Either of my Jeeps would bust knuckles (Ouch, Damn!)in the latter case.
It's most likely to be too little or too infrequent greasing of the rear shaft, but that does not seem to be the case here. You don't mention miles or history on your truck. My second suspicion is that you've not done frequent enough tire rotations and one or more tires are a different circumference. Before getting into any elaborate mechanical issues, consider replacing the tires if they justify it. Otherwise, very exactingly measure each tire in turn and see if you find a circumference difference. Run a tape measure around the center of the tread and record it to the 16th of an inch.
What can happen is the center, rear or front (or all three) diffs end up with the gears coming under a slight amount of pressure as you come to rest. It's held this way until the instant you let off, then the gears gently rotate relative to one another (from 'drive' faces touching to 'coast' faces touching or the opposite) when engine torque moves them.
Anyhow, getting technical here, but measure your tires and also be sure they're all properly inflated.
IdahoDoug
- The thump went away after I had the drive shafts lubed by the dealer. It returned in about 4000 miles. I'll have them do it again at the next oil change.
- The thump will never occur if I shift from drive --> neutral --> drive while stopped.
- My 4Runner has the adjustable air suspension in the rear. When raising and lowering the vehicle, it sometimes makes a popping sound. I suspect that this is due to the extension/retraction of the driveshaft as the vehile is raised/lowered. This did not happen in the roughly 4000 mile period after I had the drive shafts lubed. Therefore, I believe the 'thump' and the 'pop' have the same root cause.
I was thinking about getting new shocks as I've heard that the stock ones can go bad at around 60k, depends on driving.
Interesting post by Doug, I will check my tires but they are the same age and the tread looks similar... I would like to get new tires though.