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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Really it comes down to parts prices doesn't it? I mean, just about ANY car costs the same per hour to fix at a shop. So the expense of the repair would relate to the price of parts and complexity of the car. Since ALL modern cars are complex, it seems to boil down to parts prices and in that case the Chevy would cost less in most cases I would guess.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Good point. Thanks!

    Also, didn't some other "inexpensive" Korean brands had reputation for very expensive parts as well?

    And to repeat a query on another thread that may not get answered there:
    What's the primary difference between HALDEX and TORSEN AWD?
  • shom1shom1 Member Posts: 5
    My clutch just failed at 30K miles on my 2001 A4. I drive 85% freeway. Dealer wants $2245 and Audi has refused to contribute. Out of warranty by 7 months. Any advice? I plan to sue in small claims because I think any car should have an implied warranty to not wear out at 30K.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    over in the A4 threads. Brief summary; TORSEN mainly mechanical and for Longitudinal engines, HALDEX electronic controlled and for transverse engines.
  • recavrecav Member Posts: 1
    Do you have tint on your back window? This will cause bad reception in this car, especially AM.
  • a43311a43311 Member Posts: 11
    My car is at 102k miles, recently have had some problems. First it was running a tad rough, then the gas pedal wasn't responding initially after starting. Had it in the shop and got the throttle recalibrated and it was running great. I was on my way home from the shop "about a 90 min drive" and I started to hear a knocking or tapping sound coming from the front. It doesn't do it all the time but once you get to 40mph this noise starts, and the faster you go the louder and more frequent it gets. Car still starts and runs great other than that noise when over 40mph. Anybody have any similar experiences? thanks
  • mdmartinmdmartin Member Posts: 1
    Did you get an answer to this. Getting the same problem on my A6 2002. From http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews/used/sedans/0310_audi_a4/index1.html

    restored serenity to the A4's cabin. The second unscheduled visit occurred just after the A4's year had concluded. The standard Audi Symphony radio with integral six-disc CD changer suddenly stopped working, and the display began to glow red. A new radio was installed. Several other owners reported the same problem and had either the fuse or the entire radio replaced.

    We expect small luxury sedans such as the A4 to provide
  • wilnerwilner Member Posts: 34
    i bought this car a 1999 audi a4 2.8 quattro with a 50,500 mileage, after reaching 75000 miles i observed that the oil pressure warning light will light when the engine is already hot and i was slowing down or the engine is in idle. so i turned off the engine then checked the oil and it's in normal even the temperature it's in normal. i checked the dealer and i still have warranty, so the dealer replaced the oil sender sensor. this problem will show up during the hot season, if it's cold it won't. the problem is still here, until my warranty has expired. the audi tech can't solve my problem. pls help me
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Member Posts: 334
    You won't get any where in small claims court unless Audi doesn't show up and you win the case by a default judgement. There are no implied warranties on cars. A clutch could be burned out in less than a hour, much less 7 months after the warranty has expired.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't think you'll have much luck in small claims but hey you should have your day in court. Clutches are considered "expendables" like brake pads because they are so dependent on driving habits and driving conditions. The only way I could see you getting anything is if the pressure plate literally fell apart inside the bell housing. But a worn clutch disk--that's going to be tough to prove as "defective". Good luck though.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Are the valves clattering when this happens? If so, there is I believe a kind of pressure valve inside the valve cover that lets loose on this engine.

    If no valve clattering, next thing you need to do is screw in an actual oil pressure numerical gauge and get a reading to find out actual oil pressure, Probably anything below about 15 lbs (one "bar") would trigger the light, and if it's that low you may have problems.
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    Clutches are considered "expendables" like brake pads because they are so dependent on driving habits and driving conditions. The only way I could see you getting anything is if the pressure plate literally fell apart inside the bell housing. But a worn clutch disk--that's going to be tough to prove as "defective".

    Some warranties don't even cover a worn clutch because it's considered "wear and tear." Sort of like brake pads, as Mr_Shiftright said.... Even if you were under warranty, would your particular car have been covered for clutch wear anyway?
  • ptboaudia4ptboaudia4 Member Posts: 1
    Hey! Sorry about your luck. Not sure what the knocking/tapping noise could be...
    Wanted to ask you about your gas pedal response issue. Currently own a 2001 Audi A4 2.8L Quattro. When I first start the vehicle and place it in drive, I go to take off, and with my foot steady on the gas, the rpm's jump up and down. Almost seems like the engine cuts out for seconds at a time, but it remains running. This lasts only for the first couple of minutes, then seems to correct itself. Is this similar to what you experienced? Also, my exhaust gases smell "rich". Very "Gasy"? Very hard to describe. But definately not normal. Anyone else experienced this problem at all? Had the engine and tranny scanned, no codes. Recently had the engine coolant temp sensor changed.
  • wilnerwilner Member Posts: 34
    thanks mr. shiftright, i'll try to observe the engine clattering and do the numerical gauge to measure the oil pressure. this incident only happens during summer time and because i live in the central valley of california so sometimes the thermometer comes up to 100's F. thanks again for your advice.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might also try synthetic oil and see if that helps.
  • shevis_audishevis_audi Member Posts: 14
    Hi everyone,
    I just bought an Audi yesterday. Its a 1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Automatic (thats a mouthful) which i got by trading in my 2003 Hyundai which had ran very well(owed $6k on it, dealer gave me $2k for it..so $4k + $7.5k Audi + tax, etc=$12k loan), and i only had maybe 2 or 3 problems with, which were covered by the warranty. I usually wouldnt, but as it turned out, i went to a tiny used car dealership which was ran by two very young guys...and got the car As Is. I usually dont make decisions on the spot, but for some reason i did(i guess i was just so in the mindset of getting a car with more features..like cruise and ABS and i had been mildly looking into selling/trading my car for Months now).
    The Audi ran decently enough, but the inside/drivers seat felt cramped, and the ceiling is So low!! Anyway, I had read up on used car sales/what to ask and look for..and the type of Audi that i was going to see. I mainly looked up specs and recalls, not consumer's comments. I didnt see the (abundant) negative reviews as far as things falling apart - such as the timing belt - until After I got the Audi.
    I didnt drive it home because the tiny dealership said they were going to fix a couple of cosmetic things (gear shift area was all cracked/torn apart, and the cloth area that runs along the inner front windshield was falling off) and get the state inspection put on. They said i could pick it up today, but then they called me yesterday saying it wont be ready until tomorrow. Im kind of excited. But im moreso apprehensive. They couldnt fit a warranty into the loan amount - since it couldnt go over $12k. Im thinking of getting AutoServiceWarranty.com's warranty though, since they have a payment plan (they only offer the 2yr one for that specific Audi, at its mileage, and it would be $1,400 or so..but with a $299 down payment, it would be $100/month for 1 year of the 2yr coverage). Well anyway, I cant say much about the Audi as of yet, since ive only ben able to experience it during the test drive, but i should have it tomorrow...and i'll check back in with you all to give you an update on how its doing. It did seem kind of "suspect" that it was being sold for $8,000..as is at that. But i looked up other 1999 Audis with around the same mileage, and saw many for about $9k or so..so i figured $8k is nothing to be skeptical about. The dealership did give me a spoken warranty, so i asked them to give it to me in writing. In writing, they simply said the engine and transmission would be covered..verbally they had said "If anything happens within 30 days you can just bring it back to us and we'll fix it. We have a mechanic. But its an Audi...nothings going to happen in 30 days" Well, sounds like Audi doesnt mean perfection, based on what i've read on some online forums. I hate to have traded in a pretty good/solid Hyundai for a "high end" car that is going to be crap. That would be ridiculous. Well, i've typed long enough. Just thought id say hello and let you all know my situation, in case you have any suggestions for me as far as maintenance and such. The dealer didnt have a manual or maintenance book for the Audi, but im resourceful :) I just looked up 1999 Audi Maintenance and found some Bentley Publisher website or something that has the files online ready for print out. From the looks of it, there a H of a lot of maintenance to be done at 80k miles, which i dont know if it was done or not. One person told me i can go by an Audi dealership and they should be able to pull up the cars service records on the computer. So i'll do that. Really, it looks like much of the maintenance is stuff you "check" and replace only if necessary, so thats good. And much of it looks like the same stuff i had to get checked/replaced on my Hyundai..its just that it'll cost more. *sighs* Ah well. Its done now. Maybe my Audi will be good to me. It'll be about the first time i've ever had good luck. Thanks for reading. I'll try to come back to check any replies and give you guys an update.
    Take care.
    ~Shevi

    P.S. One of the guys at the dealership told me that the car has new brakes and new tires. When i later asked for the reciepts/paperwork, in case i want to use it's tire warranty or something, they said they dont get paperwork with it, cuz its all done by some mechanic they deal with, at wholesale. He said "We dont get paperwork for that wholesale stuff..there usually isnt a warranty on it" Sounded like a bunch of crap to me, but what can you do? So i didnt push the issue.

    **Anyway, as i was doing the test drive, i saw that the red, circular Brake light was on,and i inquired as to why that was. The guy told me that according to the mechanic who did the brake work, thats normal for Audi A4s when new brakes were Just put on. Is this true to your knowledge?** Thanks for your help!
  • brcorumbrcorum Member Posts: 1
    I hear you loud and clear. My wife is on her second Audi. Her previous Audi was an A4 1.8T. We had very few issues with this vehicle and the dealership that we bought it from had incredible service. Being pleased with the overall value of this vehicle, we are currently leasing our second Audi, but this time chose the 2006 A4 1.8T Cabriolet to enjoy the North Carolina blue skies and sun. We were driving my wife's new car home from the dealership when all of a sudden the Right Dip Light warning light came on. This means that the front right headlight is loose (not working) and the Dip Light warning light comes on a makes an annoying sound. Not a great start on a new 24-month lease!

    We are currently taking her car back to the dealership for the 4th time to resolve this issue. NC Lemon Law allows the dealership 4 attempts. During the sales process, this particular dealership (not the beforementioned) touted that they have the #6 and #7 ranked Audi technicians in the US in their dealership. These idiots can't even fix a headlight and warning light from coming on.

    This is an easy decision for us when my wife's lease ends...NO MORE AUDIS!!! Hello BMW!
  • tcasboytcasboy Member Posts: 214
    I hate to say it but I have to agree with the others about your chances in small claims court for a clutch issue, because the clutch is a wear item and not covered by the warranty even if you were still in it.

    I had an 89 Jeep Cherokee that lost its clutch within 2 years or so and the dealer refused to cover it. I took them to small claims court and rather than spend the time to appear they decided to settle for half the repair. That alone might be worth a try, as the small claims court costs are usually very reasonable.

    Of course, the cost for the Jeep repair back then was nowhere near the $2300 you are talking with for the Audi, so the dealer may very well decide to come in and contest your suit. If they do, I don't think you will prevail.

    A new clutch after 5 years isn't unheard of, but the cost of the repair and the parts kind of takes your breath away. That is why I dumped my 01 A4, I just didn't think I would be able to afford the maintenance required to keep it running well.

    I would still give it a try, but just wouldn't be too optimistic about the chances.

    Good luck.

    TB
  • cboysimba1cboysimba1 Member Posts: 1
    Is there anyone else having issues with the ABS activating when the brakes are tapped at speeds under 20 miles per Hour. As in at a stop sign when you take off and someone pulls out infront of you and you step on the brakes the ABS shutters and the car still keeps going and does not stop. I seem to have this issue alot. It has activated atleast 35 -40 times in the last 3 months. Audi tells me this is normal.
  • a43311a43311 Member Posts: 11
    That may be a secondary air injection pump. Mine runs when I first start the car and you can hear it for a couple minutes it sounds like a blow dryer. My mechanic said that there was a code for it but he checked it out and it was fine, also said that thing could completely shut down and the car would still run fine, I'd just have a check engine light. I never had the rpm gauge jumping like that though. Mine just wouldn't take off after starting or pulling up to a stop sign. You had to put the pedal almost to the floor before it would respond.

    Not sure about the exhaust.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Are parts costs for Audis truly much higher than other vehicles? I keep getting inconsistant feedback on this one?

    Am trying to decide whether to lease or buy Audi. If Parts are very expensive, may make more sense to lease.
  • wilnerwilner Member Posts: 34
    sir, me and my mechanic were trying to get the oil pressure reading, unfortunately we can't locate the oil sending unit, where we'll screw the oil pressure gauge. could you pls help me again, or is there any possible where i can find any engine manual of this kind of model '99 2.8 quattro. thanks
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Member Posts: 334
    The labor to repair most any car is about the same... $100~$110.00/hour but the actual hours spent to repair an Audi usually runs more. Even the hourly charge doesn't mean much these days, most auto repairs are "menu priced" out of the repair manual that most all shops use as a pricing guide.

    Parts for Audis aren't that much more if purchased on line, atleast for the smaller maintenance type items, but the larger major stuff such as alternators, air conditioning compressor, starter, are probably 20 to 30 percent more than some of the more popular Asian and Detroit makes.

    Also, there are less shops around than can work on an Audi, and this makes for a more expensive repair overall.

    Leasing will be smarter if you tend to change cars often, drive less than 35 to 40,000 miles in 3 years, can write the leasing expense off your business, and take good care of what you drive. At lease end, you will be charged up for excess miles and unreasonable wear and tear to the vehicle.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might try eBay for that. I'm sure the dealer sells the factory manual, but that might cost a bit and have far more info than you care to know. Oil sending units are often near the oil filter.
  • wilnerwilner Member Posts: 34
    i'll try, thanks again
  • jadyjady Member Posts: 2
  • jadyjady Member Posts: 2
    Hi everyone. I have a Audi A4 (1995), from last few weeks it is having a very strange problem. There is huge air pressure in fuel tank, looks like that fuel tank pulls air in from fuel tank cap. When i open fuel cap car breath easily and run smoothly but with fuel cap on it pulls air in and rev goes high. If anyone had same problem or know about this... then i need help. I showed to three mechanic but no one could diagnose.
  • shom1shom1 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the feedback. The dealer stated in writing that the pressure plate was defective, causing damage to the clutch. My contention that I only drive freeway miles is supported by the original brake pad thickness being worn down only 16% as measured by the dealer, also in writing. My last clutch (Toyota Supra) had no repairs whatsoever when I sold the car after 18 years and 145K - I know how to drive a clutch in other words. Additional feedback would be more than welcome. I file my case tomorrow - there most definitely ARE implied warranties on cars, plus equity doctrines under the common law.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd try a new cap first off or if your car doesn't use a vented cap system then whatever device vents your gas tank. The gas tank is supposed to pull air in from the cap OR some other venting system. Your gas tank must vent or it will collapse from vacuum.
  • lcr6lcr6 Member Posts: 1
    Lately my 1998 A4 has had a wind problem, once I go over 40 I hear this loud wind sound. Other thing is when I first turn the car in the morning I get this strong fume smell, but then after driving it for a while it goes away. Any input on this would be appreciated.
  • rcmrcm Member Posts: 5
    Everything was fine when I last used the Lo A/C setting on my '02 1.8T Avant last fall, but now that spring is here I get no cooling at all. The A/C fuse is good. Do I have any hope that this isn't a major problem?
  • del_boydel_boy Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I'm new to the group and cant believe the number of accelerator problems!! I wonder if anyone can help me with mine? I have just bought a Audi A4 Avant SE estate off of a certain auction site with no listed problems. I drove it home (about 200 miles) with just the odd problem (couple of bulbs gone etc). When I went to drive it for the first time after getting the car home, a strange problem occurred. The engine started immediately but as I went to move off I pressed the accelerator and nothing happened. The pedal went to the floor but the revs didn't increase. After a moment or two the pedal started to work normally and I drove off. Before I got very far I was going up a small hill and the revs dropeed back to the idling speed and again there was no response when I pressed the accelerator pedal. I slowed to a halt and couldn't get the throttle to respond. After turning the engine on and off a few times the accelerator started working normally again and I was able to drive the car back home. Each time there is no throttle the glow plug light flashes. A local garage advised that it may be a lack of oil pressure due to (you've guessed it!) a lack of oil! Apparently some audi/vw engines have this as a built in safety device. I checked the oil and it was just below the low mark on the dip stick. So I filled it up to the top mark and the problem disappeared for a week. Today the problem occurred again when I started the car to drive home from work. Luckily the car got me home without any further problem. I checked the oil again and it hasn't gone down so I am now at a loss as to what the problem could be. The cars mileage is 123k and it had a replacement vw passat 110bhp engine at 91k. If anyone can help me that would be great as I dread taking it to Audi and paying a fortune to be told they cant find the fault! Many thanks, Del.
  • samueldsamueld Member Posts: 6
    Hay Shevi,
    Congratulations on the buy, I personally would have stuck with the newer car but seems you got a good price. I have a 1998 audi 1.8TQM :shades: , and that red brake light definitely means something. Either of two things your brake fluid is low, not good, or whoever did the brakes did not get the ones with the sensors on them. I noticed you posted this twenty days ago so hopefully this problem has been resolved.
    Lastly I would definitely take your car to either a Audi dealership just for a good inspection so anything wrong can be fixed before your 30 day warranty is up or another mechanic who you will be going to regularly for services. Trust me it will be worth the $70-$100 your going to spend just to double check the car.
    E-mail me if you need further feedback.

    -----> David
  • tcasboytcasboy Member Posts: 214
    You may have already tried this, but you might want to check the moonroof to make sure it is in the properly stowed position. I had left mine slighty down and although it didn't leak or anything it was a bit louder than normal and even though I looked at it and could see it wasn't seated properly, cycling it open and closed didn't help. Turns out I had the swith slightly towards the down position and all I had to do was put it to the fully up position and the noise went away. I felt like a moron but at least it was a cheap fix!

    TB
  • mjmaudimjmaudi Member Posts: 1
    My 1997 Audi a4 2.8 is giving me a hard time starting. It fires up slow like a diesel motor when cold then a big white cloud of smoke comes out of the exhaust after that it seems to run ok until next time I start it . can someone help me troubleshoot this???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd have the cooling system pressurized and then test the engine for a leaking head gasket first off, as white smoke is a textbook sign of coolant in the combustion chambers. If you pressurize the system, you can remove a spark plug and actually see coolant on it, or in the cylinders.

    If perhaps the smoke you see is light blue and not actually white, then you might have leaking valve stem seals or worn valve guides--not such a serious issue. A cylinder leakdown test is a way to test for this condition.
  • shevis_audishevis_audi Member Posts: 14
    Thank you for being so sweet David!! Yeah, i'll get the Audi inspection done soon. Even though i dont really trust that they will look out for my financial interest with any other services...based on a couple of consumer complaints i've read online,a nd the fact that the other day, when i went in to ask about getting a replacement battery for my car remote, the guy said they would need a 2nd key. I told him that the small dealership said they only had 1. Then he told me the prices for buying a 2nd key since "usually" the cars have to be reprogrammed after changing the batteries. I was like "But it may turn out that it doesnt have to be, right?" and he said "No, its going to have to be reprogrammed". Little did he know, i had already read the manual pretty much front to back cover, so i knew that (apparently) you could program the remote locking system by yourself using one key. Anyway, i went to Radio shack and got the batteries, then pressed unlock on the remote from inside the car, followed by pushing the unlock button on the door. That didnt work. Then i was like "Maybe i need to put the Key in the door after pressing the remote, instead of doing it from the inside. So i unlocked it via the key and the remote IMMEDIATELY worked. So that was great. Well, along with the Brake light, the ABS light is on too. And one Audi place told me that that Automatically means i need a new ABS Control Module. But im thinking that maybe its just that sensor that i've read about. Im interested in getting the Timing belt replaced, just to be on the safe side. They quoted me at $1,700 for that. A guy at NTB told me i could get that done for several hundred, but then an Audi guy told me not to let anyone tell me that and that those people probably wouldnt be doing it right.

    Thanks again for taking the time to give me some helpful hints David. I had written about the car on a different website - heres the link to it if you want more updated/complete information...and have some time on your hands. lol. I wrote two reviews, one is called : "Small Interior..." http://www.carsurvey.org/review_89324.html and the other one is called "Great performance and features" http://www.carsurvey.org/review_89425.html I'll revisit this Edmunds website to check for replies (apparently i get a notice via email of any posts that occur anyway). Well, so far, im loving my Audi. I hope you guys are loving yours. And feel free to talk to me! Thanks.
    *By the way, is there a REPLAY button for CDs (I have the 6-disc CD changer in the trunk)?? If so i havent read about or found it yet. The battery went dead the other day. I was late for work, but i was SO relieved that it was just the battery - an easy fix...once you find somone with jumper cables. lol And it was probably my fault - long story. But its a 99, so im thinking it was probably due soon anyway. I'll buy a brand new one for my baby soon.
  • jtdavisjtdavis Member Posts: 2
    We have a 97 2.8 liter A4. I had wanted an Audi since the coupe came out when I was in high school. We purchased our A4 in 1998 with only 17,000 miles on it and loved it for the first few years. Then the nightmare began. I dont have the time nor willpower to revisit all the repairs and money spent on this vehicle, but we have spent upwards of $8000 so far. I will just say this. Find a good mechanic and stay as far as possible from Audi dealerships.
    Now our A4 has a new problem. I started it up and moved it into the garage and the ubiquitous "load noise" started to come from under the hood. I cant tell where the noise is coming from due to the plastic engine cover. It sounds like air rushing. When I tried to turn off the car, the ignition switch didnt want to turn off. The car shut off as usual, but it felt like something was holding back the key from turning all the way off. I turned it all the way off, took the key out, and the radio remained on and the car beeped as if the key was still in the ignition. This one feels a little more troublesome than the usual oxygen sensor problem. Does anyone have any idea what may be causing this?
  • mason3mason3 Member Posts: 5
    Hi, I am new to sites of this sort but I need all the help I can get. Seems like you are having one of the problems I am having. I just purchased a '98 Audi A4 5 speed. It did not come with an owner's manual which I will purchase for about $19.95 plus tax. I had a nervous feeling since purchasing it about a week and 1/2 ago. First the radio needed a code, I finally got. Then I needed an amp, previous owners took it and cut the chords. I didn't have to pay, the dealer did but sound system is horrible, need to change it. The amp does not belong to an Audi. To top it off the 6 CD changer is not fully in tact. The part for the CDs is missing. Display screen that shows the temp & gas mileage disappeared??? Now today, the brake fluid light came on, then the MPH 2 sign keeps showing up about 4 hours afterwards. Someone please inform me before I trade this thing in. I hear it's a good car but I do not think I got one of the good ones. Also, what type of gas, and oil does this vehicle take?
  • nycaudi1nycaudi1 Member Posts: 1
    Help - my radio won't turn on! It still glows, but no text, no sound....not even that SAFE message I've read about. Any tips on where I might find the fuses, or anything else I should do before bringing it to the dealer? thanks!!
  • gdb20gdb20 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 A4 1.8T and I was quoted for 745 just for the tie rods. I'm kind of skeptical to spend that much money then to find out that was not the problem. I have been hearing this intermittent noise from the front end. I drove the car from dealer this morning and it is very quiet. ofcourse they have not heard they noice since It comes and go. I'm thinking of driving it for a at least another week to see what happens. any suggestions?
  • jtdavisjtdavis Member Posts: 2
    Yes, stay far away from the dealership and find a good mechanic familiar with Audi suspensions. I thought Audi had solved these front suspension problems. Here is a list of my front suspension woes we have had on our 97 A4:

    Jan 2002: Replaced left front outer tie end.
    Mar 2002: Replaced both front stabilizer links.
    May 2002: Took car into dealership because the front suspension was still making load "clunking" noises. Nothing was fixed as the mechanic would have to "replace the entire front suspension to fix the problem."
    Aug 2002: Front lower ball joints "noisy" diagnosis by Audi mechanic. Nothing repaired as "everything would have to be replaced."
    Jul 2003: Replaced right front tie rod assembly.
    Apr 2005: Replaced right front CV axle.

    With all this work, the only difference I could feel or hear was the first repair. By 2002, I had given up on solving the problems. We now drive the car(when its running) with constant stretching and clunking noises coming from the front suspension. So, is it dangerous to drive your car with tie-rod problems? I cant say, but the experience with my car my be informative.
  • gdb20gdb20 Member Posts: 4
    Sorry to hear about all your trouble but the info is defintely helpful. I'm glad I did not let the dealer steal my money, especially when I haven't even heard the noise since I came back from there. I think I should be safe for now until I can find a good local shop to look into that further. Thanks!!
  • suzywhateversuzywhatever Member Posts: 6
    I am thinking about either the A4 or the Passat. Can anyone offer the Pros or Cons? I haven't had a chance to drive either, have sat in the A4 and it feels really solid. I want safety and better gas mileage (driving a ML320 gas hog now). Look forward to your comments, Thanks.
    Suzy
  • civic4civic4 Member Posts: 33
    Safety and better gas mileage? Get a Civic.

    Truthfully, My wife and I owned Audis, I had a 98 A4, my wife an 01 A6 4.2. We had so many problems with the A4, we sold the A6 before the warranty was up. We now drive Civics. I know, not the status symbol you would think of going to, but I must say, impressive gas mileage, great handling and a track record that will tempt the enthusiast who is tired of spending their 401K on car repairs. Audis are fun to drive, nice looking and provide a class factor, but dont fall in love with the vehicle, it will wring your last dollar from your Swiss bank account. PS, my A4 was eventually totaled by my stepson, but I was paid $870 for the oil sludge class action and also, surprised one day when there was a $3450 check in my mail box for a class action regarding timing belt rupture that I didn't think I would get. Add this to the insurance company not being able to read my odometer and guestimating 75,000 miles on it, when in fact there were twice that many miles, I was paid a decent $13,000 on the total loss of the car. We bought a Civic, and now are considering a new one but will wait to see what Honda will add to the cars features on the 07 model. By the way, we never admitted to my step son that he actually did us a favor by putting the Audi to rest. I would probably still be pouring cash into it.
  • dadebsdadebs Member Posts: 2
    I am not sure if you will get this, but... Did you end up buying the parts? If so, did it work out? My engine light is on and I may have to do this soon.
  • dadebsdadebs Member Posts: 2
    My mechanic told me that the computer diagnostic indicated that the problem was the catalytic converters. However, he spoke with a friend of his with a VW dealership hoping to get some insight. My mechanic was told that the computer could be upgraded or "reflushed", something about TSB was mentioned as well. However, the dealership will often tell you it is the converters because they make more money that way. Anyone have any clue about this??? I plan to follow up with more details but was hoping to find info online...thanks!

    P.S. Why in the heck do dealers charge $1200 per converter and you can be them online for $350? Has anyone bought them online and have someone install them???
  • mason3mason3 Member Posts: 5
    Hello, I agree. I had a '97 Honda Civic EX, manual transmission. I miss that car. I purchased it used, only 4 years old. Never had trouble, just maintained the oil change. The only reason I do not have it now is because I was putting at least 500 miles EVERY weekend for almost a whole year. I had a slow oil leak that eventually turned big from the constant driving. I should have paid more attention. The engine blew. That was partially my fault because I should have focused more, I thought that if I changed the oil religiously every 3,000 to 4,000 miles it would be alright. If someone tells you there is a small leak, pay attention. I still recommend this car to anyone. I was even in an accident with it. Rear ended at full speed. It just crushed the trunk. It's been through 2 serious floods from the Florida Hurricanes. The water covered my wheels & the other time the hood. Only problem was the stick shift got stuck& it took awhile to dry out the engine. After a few kicks it was good to go. Now I have an Audi and I am sooooo worried. The gas in the Civic was EXCELLENT and I put plenty miles on it. I just took the Audi on a road test about 600 miles and it did good on gas. One tank goes at least 310 miles city or highway. But there are other problems. If you have a steady career and not many big bills you can probably deal with paying for an Audi, but if you just have a job that can lay you off anytime, get the Civic. They are reliable and gas mileage is great.
  • rjorge3rjorge3 Member Posts: 144
    suzywhatever, I just want to give you my opinion and share with you what I have been through with my Audi.

    I have a 2005 1.8 A4 6M which I purchased on 1/11/05. This is my first German car (always drove Japanese, Toyota, Lexus, Nissan). As for the feel, drivebility and egornomics of the car, The A4 is a blast. It is fun, handles like no other car I've owned, and that interior is just to die for (in my opinion). But here is the punch line...... I will never, ever ever never, buy another Audi or other German car. My car has been in the shop four times due to engine light keep coming on. This last time, I stalled right in the Middle of the lincoln tunnel coming from NY into NJ (yes right in the middle of the Tunnel in a new car!!!!) After towing the car back to my house and then the next day to the dealer, they found that they had to replace the gas tank and all the lines. The car is still in the shop (one week and counting). The service dept say that it will drive like new again, but I have a meeting with a Lemon law lawyer in NJ to discuss my options. I had it with this lemon.

    Depending on the outcome of my case, I will either have to drive another Audi until my lease experies (in 24 more months) or if they refund my money, then I will go for the Infinity G35, Acura TL, or the new Toyota Camry. I will remain japanese till the day I die. I rather have reliability and excellent customer service rather than the "German driving experience" and constant trips to the shop. Even the guy that picked me up in the tow truck told me that he picks up more Audis, BMWs, VWs and MBs than any other brands of cars....and remember that there are more Japanese and American cars on the road..go figure :mad:

    I know that others probably have had a much more positive experience than me, but I am literally paranoid about driving or even starting my car once they give it back to me.

    This last trip to the dealer is the last straw for me...If I were you, I'd go for the civic, honda, toyota and you will not have as many problems.

    Good luck in your decision, let us know.

    R

    p.s. just one last thing, two of my best friends also own German cars: 2004 Mercedez s500 (seven trips to the dealer since March 2005) and the other owns a 2001 BMW 525 since December 2004 and he has been to the shop at least 4 times; and none of those repairs were scheduled maintanance (oil change, brakes, tune up, etc)
  • winswins Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I am new to this forum and is a long time admirer of Audi. I am planning on getting a 2003 A4 3.0 Quattro with about 54k miles. A little high on the mileage but at a pretty good price.

    I am wondering about the followings,

    1) What's the reliability of these batch of A4?

    2) What about resale value? Does the A4 holds up pretty well?

    3) Please share any personal experience with this particular year and model of A4. Any suggestions or advice is greatly appreciated!!!

    Thanks!!!
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