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Comments
Others have found the parts on-line and have paid about $350 for labor to do the job.
Perhaps one of these options would work and keep you going for a while longer?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Take a look at your trunk light. The switch that closes and turns it off maybe faulty. I had this happen on my old BMW 745i
D
Tried locating info on the net, even paid to join on-line manuals but no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Can any body help me.
lpierre
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
This past Saturday I went to my dealer to clear a check engine light on my 2005 A4, Quattro 1.8L (5 times already yeeepeeeeey, I think that by now, I am an expert in clearing the "code"). Since I was the last car they service that day, I got to talk to the mechanics for quite a while and they shared with me something that I don't know if some of you guys have hear before. He indicated that the 3.0 and the 3.2 (06 and 07) are virtually trouble free or at least have far less problems than the 1.8 or 2.0. He went as far as to tell me that he would have bought a used 3.0/3.2 than a new 1.8 (at the time I had bought mine in 05) or a 2.0.
Have any of you heard this before? and for those of you that are 3.0 or 3.2 owners, have you have a good experience with your car aside from the regular maintance?
R :confuse:
I'm afraid to tell you that the turbo (1.8 or 2.0) has a problem with the oil sludging, meaning it stays in the oil pan and creates a situation where the engine siezes and you have to get a new engine. It happened to me on the last and only turbo I will ever get. I now have a used 2000 2.8 and it is a much better car than the turbo. Definitely no problem with the oil. Only thing I can tell you is to change the oil more frequently, not what Audi tells you. good luck
This is why my next Audi will be the A5.
I've been wanting a coupe anyway, ever since I sold that Urq.
The A5 is also only available with AWD!!
As I mentioned on my other post, I went over my allowed mileages for my lease and even though my lease ends on april next year, I decided not to drive it. The question now is, would the car act weird if I don't drive it as often. I have not moved the car for almost a month. I do turn the engine on and let it idle for a couple of minutes every weekend. Call me paranoid, but the last thing I need is for the engine or transmition to go and then I'd be stuck with a huge bill.
I still want to hear from those 3.0 and 3.2 owners and their experiences.
Other than this, I absolutely love driving this vehicle!
Assuming the car is now running well and rough idle is gone you can expect that engine light to go off after a few start/stop cycles. If not then you need to pull the codes.
I recommend that you use the gas this vehicle calls for to realize the full potential of that engine. it will has knock sensors to compensate for lower grade gas but it's really a false economy as I have said above.
If that turns out to be the problem, I'd be careful where I buy gas.
If this turns out the be the case then I will be VERY careful about where I get my gas!
Good luck - james
I'm hoping somebody knows of a common fault?? My suspicions were wheel bearing, however the previous owner changed them only 2 years ago.
I own an A4 Quattro and there is a rumbling bearing/diff noise comin from the rear of the car. Afriend also hea the same noise, he changed the diff with no luck.
I would like to know if anyone has had the same problem at all? I would prefer to know before untightening the purse strings.
I gearing up for the stone walling that I assume will start. Will some one confirm that this consumption is NOT NORMAL because I assume this is the dance I am about to have.
If they did indeed do a battery drain test (you just hook up a voltmeter or ammeter) and nothing showed up, then they should test the charging system at full load.
it's pretty much got to be one or the other.
day later driving on the highway my check engine light goes! Damnit
After the usual process of cooling down I check the oil level and its almost a third of an inch above full level!
The dealer said that that wouldn't cause the check engine light to go on.
No visible sign of whitish oil sludge. Bought used but maintained with synthetic oil since. currently 111K miles. What is the deal???
Best of luck
d
That said, a third of an inch isn't very much, and some engines allow for that much of a margin of error, others don't, and I'm not sure which camp the 1.8T falls into.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Having said all that, sure, drain it out, reset the light and see what happens.
Sure would be good to scan it though.
Just wondering if someone can shine some light into my car drama. I have a 2003 A4 3.0 currently with 98,000 miles which I purchased new. At 11,000 miles my car stopped in the middle of the parkway - recall - fuel injection replaced. Starting around 65,000 miles or so, I started running out of oil 1,000-1,500 miles before my schedules appointment. After this happened several times regardless of checking the oil, I automatically get my oil changed every 3,500 miles and I stopped taking it to the dealer for oil changes. The jiffy lube type place usually uses 6 quarts of oil and it is synthetic. My question is my left catalytic converter went around 78,000 miles which was covered. Now, my right catalytic converter went which was costly (extended warrenty didn't cover it) I was told that it ws rare for catalytic converters to go in these types of cars. Can my oil problems (running out of oil, possibly using to much oil, not using Audi filter) causing my catalytic converters to go or is the fuel pump / engine issues with these types of cars the cause.
Thanks.
The dealer sent me a replacement piece. I expected it to be just the plastic piece, but it is the entire component -- the drawer, mechanics and all. It looks as if I need to take the entire console apart, remove the drawer and refit it with the new drawer. Is this really the case? Or is there a way I can somehow snap off the face from the new piece they sent and snap it on the existing drawer?
The piece looks as if it could snap off, but I am a little afraid of attempting that and winding up breaking the new piece. I'm also, to be honest, a little wary of how much it might cost to have the console taken apart and refitted.
Any thoughts? Thanks for your time.