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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tremeretremere Posts: 24
    My friend's 2001 A4 is leaking oil. She loses a quart of oil in a week. She stopped by a dealership and they said that the gasket is leaking and will cost $1500 to fix (labor and parts). Does that sound reasonable?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    "...and they said that the gasket is leaking..."

    Ummm, which gasket? The A4 has lots of gaskets, some are a piece of cake to replace, some not so much. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    what's the P code say?
  • conallconall West TexasPosts: 91
    Cold start valve was the culprit on my older Audi. ;)
  • tremeretremere Posts: 24
    Ok, she got the car looked at and they said that the main oil leak was from the cam seal and the valve cover gaskets. Additionally, they've suggested a few items that need repair:

    SERP belt
    valve cover gaskets
    cam seal x4
    timing belt
    water pump
    tensioners

    Total cost of $1800 plus tax. Does that sound reasonable?

    The water pump, timing belt, tensioners, etc don't need immediate attention, but they suggested that since they're already working on the engine, might as well take care of the other stuff.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Hmmm, $1,800 for all of that work? Yeah, I suppose it isn't too bad. That said, I'd find a good independent German car mechanic and get a second opinion and quote. I'm thinking that you can get all of that work done for nearer the 1K mark versus the 2K price tag that you're now looking at.

    In addition, I'm very curious why they think the cam seals are shot.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • audiman5audiman5 Posts: 8
    My 99 A4 had "similar" leaks so I changed the valve cover gaskets, but did not stop oil drainage. It turns out, a metalic tube had a broken weld and was leaking the oil.

    You may want to ascertain exactly where the leak is occuring "seeing for yourself" before investing in the fix.

    Just a thought....

    d
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    Sounds like the same problem that I am experiencing. 2002 Audi A4 Quattro with 53,000 miles. Power steering fluid has been coming up almost empty between servicings and I have also reported it during serving at dealer. Told repeatedly no leak found. Recently, I noticed a large puddle of fluid on the on the ground on the passenger side of the car after a very cold morning. I checked under the car and a large amount of fluid was dripping from the undercarriage on the passenger side near the suspension arm. I pulled it into my home garage and took the lower plastic deflector pan off. The pan had approximately 1/2 pint of fluid accumulated in the valley of the pan. It appears that the power steering seal at the end of the steering rack has let go and the dust boot that covers the end of the rack and the seal apparently ruptured. I am very concerned that this problem could possibly lead to a fire as the fluid leaks on to the exhaust and subsequently poses a hazard that should be addressed by Audi. I have not contacted Audi to determine if they have a repeated problem with this. I have checked the Audi Recall and Technical Service Bulletins (http://www.audiforums.com/recalls-and-tsbs/make_AUDI/model_A4/year_2002/TSB.htm- ) but do not find one listed for this problem. If anyone else is having the same problem, please let the rest of us know. I understand that the seals are not field replacable and the rack must be pulled and replaced at a cost of $400+ for a rebuilt rack and $800 for labor. Ouch!!
  • I need help with as to what grade of gas to use on 2008 A4 2.0T. The dealer told me to use the premium. Manual recommends premium, but also states the minimum requirement is 87 octane. With expected gas prices @ $4/gal. this summer, can I use regular fuel on this vehicle without damaging any engine components? Please help...
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    First the good news, yes, you can use Regular without damaging your engine. Then the better news, if you use Premium gasoline, you'll get better fuel mileage (more than enough to offset the extra cost of Premium) and have more power on tap at any given moment.

    So, the question is, while you can use Regular, why would you want to? It's kind of one of those "fool's economy" things, while any given tank will cost less with Regular, your fuel costs per mile will actually be higher.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • I have the same steering rack problem on my 2002 A4 Quattro with 63,000. Every couple of months for the about the last 6 months, power steering fluid has been low enough to cause a bad sound while steering. Yesterday, my regular mechanic said the only thing he could find was dampness on the right side of the steering column and he thought it was probably a problem with the steering rack. He recommended I take it to the dealer. I'm guessing they'll tell me the seal at the end of the steering rack is bad. Ugh.
  • daveg518daveg518 Posts: 1
    i bumped into the back of another car yesterday and the grille has a tiny bit of damage..it is a little bit loose and one of the chrome pieces came out (i pushed it back in)..how much would it cost to get replaced? You wouldn't even know i got in an accident unless i told you...
  • mreidya4mreidya4 Posts: 1
    Well I must say an A4 can last very long i have a manual 96 A4 with over 222,000 miles and still going strong. yes she has her minor maintenance issues like a starter at 98,000 miles and control arms and ball joints at 110,000 miles. And i changed the timing belt at 150,000 mile. But other than that she is perfect so i looks like the new cars just aren't built as well as the older cars..
  • rose18rose18 Posts: 1
    can anyone advise on how much it should cost to repair the mass airflow sensor and a leak on the valve cover gasket? I have a 2003 Audi A4 (1.8)

    I am getting quoted a price of $310 for the mass airflow sensor and $320 for the valve cover gasket. Is this too much?

    Would appreciate any help!
  • I have a 2000 Audi A4. The turn signals turn on but do not flash. Where is the flasher relay located
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    If I recall rightly, it's in the hazard warning switch itself, which you have to remove from the dash. You might check on this with the dealer's parts department but I think that's right. As for getting it out, I don't have the repair manual on that job. Some interenet sites say just carefully pry it out with a thin blade; others say you have to remove the dashboard trim.

    Visiting Host
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    MAF is $210 parts + 1.8 hr labor

    Valve cover gasket is $36 parts + 1.4 hr labor.

    Where I live (labor rates of $105 per hour) the MAF quote sounds like a good deal but the valve cover quote sounds way too high.

    I'm only going by what you've told me and reading from a book, so use this info accordingly.

    Visiting Host
  • wilnerwilner californiaPosts: 34
    i already replaced the ABS control module and everything is fine.my new problem, i replaced the tie rod ends and my mechanic told me to have a wheel alignment. i went to a dealer and the service manager asked the tech or the mechani if he can do it today and the tech advised her(service manager) to buy a subframe bolt 4 of them because it's an all wheel drive before he can perform the alignment without checking the car yet. i told them that i replaced the tie rod ends. DO I NEED A SUBFRAME BOLT JUST TO HAVE AN ALIGNMENT OF THE WHEELS WITHOUT LOOKING AT IT FIRST? OR DOES THE SUBFRAME BOLTS NEED TO BE REPLACED?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    The subframe bolts should be replaced IF they have ever been loosened or removed for some other procedure. If they haven't ever been touched, I'm not seeing a reason to replace them.

    The reason for replacement is that they can stretch and you won't get the right torque on them.
  • wilnerwilner californiaPosts: 34
    my mechanic replaced the tie rod ends, axle on the passenger side and the brake rotors/pads. so does the subframe bolts were loosened or remove on these procedures?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    best ask him. I've never done this job before. If he doesn't remember, I think I could find out for you. The diagram to replace the axle/hub carrier doesn't show anything about subframe bolts and the procedure listed doesn't mention replacing any of the bolts loosened in the procedure.
  • justin12justin12 Posts: 23
    The other day I turned on my A4 and heard a dropping sound in the engine. The car then idled fairly high and the engine was louder than normal during driving. The sounds went away quickly and reappeared today with the same dropping thud when the engine was switched on. Anyone else with similar issues? I'm taking it into Audi tomorrow but wanted to get any suggestions on what the cause could be.
  • balaji3balaji3 Posts: 2
    Hi all,
    I have an 1998 Audi A4. I bought this from a dealer an year ago. It has 76000 miles on it. A month back i saw a problem in which the engine rpm used to shoot really high and the car speed used to go low. when i used to stop and park the car for few mins, the car used to drive normally. this happend couple of times over a period of two months. So, i took it to the mechanic to have it checked and the mechanic told everything was fine. I drove the car and went onto to the freeway and within 5miles my car broke with a major jerk noise and the check engine, brake , abs symbol came up. I was never able to start the vehicle again. The mechanic checked the vehicle and again said everything was fine with the vehicle. Thereafter the car used to drive normally but sometimes used to stop with abs, brake symbol coming up. I took the car to the dealer and he made spend 750$ and replaced a shifter chip in the triptronic unit. This didnt fix the issue. I am still seeing the failure. Also, now i am seeing the airbag symbol flashing. I took it to the dealer again, and he says he doesnt know what the problem is. Has anyone had the same issue? Any suggestions to fix the issue would be greatly appreciated.
  • suttlestsuttlest Posts: 4
    Can anyone give me advice on the correct procedure to remove the faceplate without breaking it around the hazzard button. on the center dashboard.

    Backgorund
    My turn signals stopped working, meaning they would flash once and then nothing. Silly me thought that I could easily replace the flasher. i later found that the flasher is located behind the Hazzard button and I have to remove the face plate to change the switch, which is $40.
    Thanks
    Tim
  • suttlestsuttlest Posts: 4
    I have the exact same problem. The dealer confirmed that the folasher is behind the hazard button. I too would love to know the best way to pry the face plate off without breaking. By the way, I was charge $40 for the flasher and they had to order it. I was told that it is .7 hours to install the flasher, which is $77 at the dealer near me. I would rather find a way to safely do it myself.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    It looks like from the diagram that there are two little spring clips at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and that maybe you just slide something in there and it pops out?
  • suttlestsuttlest Posts: 4
    Thanks. When my ordered new flasher comes in I will try it and post the results.
  • audiman5audiman5 Posts: 8
    Dear Tim,
    I have a 99 A4 which had the same problem. Assuming it's the same, the face plate can be removed with a flat or pointed pick. Place it right on the reveal between the face plate and dash, pull it straight out and you'll see the flasher/hazard unit. I opened my unit up and found out the spring making contact sometimes gets stuck in the closed position. I took a screwdriver and pulled it out and deformed it even more. It worked fine and saved $40. Hope this helps.

    d
  • hnl2ordhnl2ord Posts: 1
    I am considering buying a 2000 A4 1.8 Turbo. The car looks nice, I drove it and it feels good, but the "Check Engine" light is on. The car has 82k miles on it, fairly recent 80k check up, does not seem to leak or smell of leaking. The current owner bought it 2.5 yrs ago with about 74k miles on it so he has not driven it much but the check engine light was on when he bought it from a local dealer. After reading this thread, I have become aware of just a few of the things that can keep these cars from running reliably (or just running) and as a long time BMW owner, I am getting woried about this low mileage vehicle. My daughter had a great Audi so I had thought this would be a wise choice. Will not seal the deal till my mechanic checks it out...what should we look for.....what and where are the codes.....advice....HELP!!! :confuse:
  • loveseylovesey Posts: 1
    hello im hopping some one could help im doing an exhust on an audi a4 n reg and i was wondering if you can just fit a new cat o do you have to fit a new down pipe aswell. If some one could get back to me soon it would be very helpful
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I bet the seller knows exactly what the check engine light means. Which is why he didn't fix it.

    yep, read the codes and find out what's what. I wouldn't buy the car unless the seller fixes the problem.
  • bballer12bballer12 Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I plan on buying a 2002 Audi A4 1.8T with 98,000 miles on it. Is there any mechanical problems that come with that year modle Audi? The car is in California and I live in Arkansas so i am unable to test drive it.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Unless you can get the complete service history (as in EVERY oil change and what kind of oil was used) for that car since day one, then there ain't no way I'd touch that car with a ten foot pole. Why? Because unless the oil was changed every 5,000 miles and unless that oil met the VW 503.01 or 502.00 oil specification (no exceptions on the oil change interval or the oil, period, full stop, the end), then the engine has a fairly high likelihood of being full of sludge.

    Keep us posted.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    beware the Sludge Monster. Too risky. Take a pass or send an inspector. Shipo is right, this is one car you don't want to mess with if it hasn't been running synthetic oil, changed RELIGIOUSLY on schedule. A 2002 Audi with a sludged engine ain't worth much these days, and you won't like the replacement cost. Pulling the valve cover is mandatory in an inspection.
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    One item to look at. About 2 years ago, Audi sent out a notice to 2002 A-4 owners advising them that they would extend warranty on engines that developed or failed due to sludge issues. I remember receiving this item and unfortuneatly don't remember the bulletin number or any other info on it. This would be a good thing to look up as I think it extended the warranty an additional 5 years for coverage of this problem.

    Good place to look is at Audi tech site at

    http://www.audiforums.com/recalls-and-tsbs/make_AUDI/model_A4/year_2002/TSB.htm
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I searched your link and ALLDATA but didn't see anything like that.
    :(

    But I did find mention of it here:

    http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?scid=&did=948

    Apparently you have to prove your case to get the warranty, so if you are buying used, that's not going to work in most cases.
  • richukrichuk Posts: 2
    HELP!!!!!!!... ok im wondering if any audi owners can help me with some problems with mine!!.... First all 4 Front speakers are crackling but when you turn the sound up it stops!!.... second, the traction control light comes on - then the glow plug warning light flashes, then the car goes into a "safe mode" (1500 rpm limited).. but this seems to slear itself after about 30 mins stopped its happened 5 times now in two months............ THEN!! theres an unusual "squeak" whenever i go over a speedbump, NO garage can fix it!!............ THEN!! theres my front o/s headlight im assumin its a loose connection but i just wanna moan!!.... LAST!!! theres my door, The bloody rattling window!........ i know im moaning but the traction control light issue is my main concern, i know its going to cost me a FORTUNE in audi to have it diagnosed, if anyone has had simular problems PLEASE PLEASE get intouch, ([email protected]).... my summary is, LOVELY looking / driving / powerful car but dear god dont buy one unless its got one hell of a warrenty!! my car is 4 years old (52) with 52k on the clock and look at the problems, i had before this a vauxhall cavalier 15 years old 1.6 petrol 89k on when she got stolen... i NEVER opened the bonnet other than regular servicing... take advise, audis are lovely, but any problems NOT minor... thanks ya'll!! Richard Clayton (sheffield-England)
  • suttlestsuttlest Posts: 4
    Thanks to all for the great advice. I did have to buy a new flasher, $40, but I was able to replace it myself. For future reference here is what I ran into.

    The flasher is located within the emergency flasher on the center console. To remove the faceplate simply pry up one corner. There are six metal fastners that hold the faceplate to the console. Once you have the faceplate off use a flathead screwdriver to pry the flasher from the holder, actually this was very easy and I was concerned I might break something. Then you can simply unplug the old flasher and plug in the new one. The only challenge I had was that the six metal fastners that should be attached to the faceplate and snap to the center console all came loose. I had to super glue them back to the faceplate and then reattach it to the center console. So be aware that the little metal fastners, about the size of a staple but thicker, do slide off the center consol and should be glued to the faceplate. I will keep this blog open in case someone has any questions. I was concerned as to how to remove the faceplate without breaking it.

    Thanks
    Tim
  • utahjakeutahjake Posts: 20
    I thought those of you who read my original post in February 2008 regarding the serious engine problems with my 2007 A4 might like to hear the end of the story. After Audi offered to make a car payment of two to compensate me, I contacted a law firm that specializes in lemon law and the Magnuson Moss federal warranty law. They took the case. Mediation went on for a couple of months when finally, the mediator offered me exactly what I had requested in my letter to the VP of Audi - substitution of collateral. Audi took my A4 and I was able to choose a 2008 model up to my original msrp (any money over the msrp was my responsibility to pay) without paying taxes, destination charges or plate transfer fees. My loan stayed the same with only the VIN of the new car being substituted. I did have to pay Audi a mileage fee because of the 20,000 miles on my car when the problems began. Audi had to pay the majority of the attorneys' fees. I decided I did not want another A4, mainly because I could not replace by 3.2 with a 2008 without going over my msrp. So I now own a totally loaded 2008 A3 3.2 S line. I've had the A3 for two weeks now and really like it. It is everything the reviews said it was. I am still not sure if I will keep it after my experience with Audi as a corporation but at least now I have a car that has some value. So for those of you facing serious problems with your car, and not getting any satisfaction from Audi customer service, I definitely recommend letting an expert step in to handle the situation.
  • rascal99rascal99 Posts: 54
    I am glad everything turned out well for you. I think the A3 is a great car. If you really like it I would say keep it. You probably hate Audi right now; but, you are not proving anything to Audi if you get rid of it for spite. There are other car mfrs. that would have acted in the same manner believe it or not.

    It is a shame an attorney and mediator had to get involved. I would have thought if you retained an attorney Audi would have gave in.
  • I had problems with the flasher unit/switch working intermittently. I took the switch out and stripped off the casing to look for broken circuit or anything obvious, and found that the unit worked if held at a certain position whilst still connected. I bent the terminals at the back just slightly and applied WD40 and it cured the problem. Cheaper that a switch! Could be worth a try.
  • amandamand Posts: 5
    any progress on your issue. Mine did that and fianlly went out. checked the nossels and then the motor - everything seems to be fine. I believe it is the switch.. but have not opened this up yet.

    AD
  • amandamand Posts: 5
    AUDI A4 - 02 Wiper slowed down then went out. Checked motor which is fine. Suspect switch - anyone with similar experience - pls help. AD
  • asaidiasaidi Posts: 1
    i also have a audia4-02 with a similar problem...
    my blades we not stopped completely, they were stuck and went back and forth a slight bit , they would stop and flicker a little again ...thought maybe it was the fuse but it wasn't...we put some wd40 in the wiper connection bolt(unsure of the technical name) and it started to works again
    i went to the dealer and they said it is a common problem and the part would need replacement at about $ 450
    hope this helps
  • brokencarbrokencar Posts: 1
    I have an A4 convertible (3.0) Qt

    i have had it for 4.5 years and have only done 21K miles.

    the other day, the coolant was leaking. the garage have concluded that it is a crack in the short engine block. This is surely not down to wear and tear. Audi customer services are offering £1K towards a £7k bill. They do NOT accept it is a manufacturing fault, but will not tell me what caused it. Engine blocks do not just crack after 21K miles?

    help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Depends on whether you allowed the car to overheat or not. If the crack (I assume in the cylinder bore) was due to a severe overheat, you'll have a hard time getting Audi to step up for that. If you can swear on ten holy books that the temp gauge never went into the red and that the overheat alarm didn't go off, then I'd raise hell with them. You might ask that a factory representative examine the block. These field engineers travel from dealer to dealer.
  • eddie650eddie650 Posts: 26
    My dealer just sent me an offer for an extended warranty on my 2005 Audi A4 convertible and it was about $4,600 for an extra 4 years or up to 100,000 miles. Though it seems like a lot to pay out at one time, I almost expect to pay out about $1,200 or more per year anyway once I'm out of the regular warranty and the car is over 4 years old. I expect to buy it, but don't know if there are competitive offers around.
    It's offered bt Total Protection and is called "Supreme Coverage".

    I'm generally satisfied with my car, though I just had a coolant leak at 36,000 miles and also had aaan ignition coil replaced after the 35,000 service.
  • 604doc604doc Posts: 182
    It's probably negotiable. If you really want the warranty, offer him quite a bit less, and see what he says.
  • jbird2412jbird2412 Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out a fix for that rattling coming from the drivers side door/under the dash area?? I just bought a 06 a4 and it has a rattle when going over rough pavement
  • hauschildhauschild Posts: 62
    Guys,

    2005.5 A4 - 35k miles - 2.0 Turbo Quattro

    While on vacation this last week, I noticed the brake lights illuminating on the A4 as I walked out the door in the morning to take a ride. I found this severely odd - no light switches were turned on inside the vehicle and the car started, but barely. That day came and went without event.

    However, a few days later as I attempted to take another drive, the battery was completely dead. I had my pops jump it and it started. The following evening, the battery was completely dead again. Had my pops jump again and the following morning it was completely dead once again.

    So, I looked up the nearest Audi dealership in Wausau, Wisconsin and headed out for the nice 120 mile jaunt. Arrived mid-morning and explained the situation with the service manager. They couldn't find a problem after an hour messing around. I then let the manager know about the brakes lights being on that one morning. That was deal-sealer as the tech quickly found a faulty brake light switch.

    My first question is why in the hell does a faulty brake light switch not cause some type of fault code??? I really found it odd that something as drastic as a piece of faulty circuitry that completely disables an engine can go unnoticed by the computer???

    Anyhow, maybe this will help anybody that goes thru something like this in the future.

    There was another thing I'd like some comments on. As I was talking with the service manager with the engine idling, he told me there is something wrong with my engine because it idles too loudly. I've never listened to an A4 engine, so I thought mine was normal. I was in a hurry that day to resume my vacation, so I told him I'd hold off until I return to Chicago, but he told me to definitely get it checked out because something's not right. Other than that, it runs good and I am getting around 34mpg's on my highway drives which is real good. Anybody have any concrete information on the engine that I can use before I make an appointment? I'm not sure a service manager would do much if I came in and said my engine was loud, ya know? Something specific would be appreciated.

    Thanks!
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