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Their website is
They used to have an affiliation with Discover Credit Card, which you might be able to save another 20% if you use part of your 'Cashback Bonus' for a gift card or whatever.
-hh
have a problem with the electric windows.when i first start the car the windows
do not operate,then after about 5mins they work ok,thie same thing happens every time i start the car,it also stops me closing the windows via the door lock.
Could the problem be the master switch?
Thanks,Graham
I'm aware that if the oxygen sensor goes bad for some reason, the check engine light comes on. At work this happens on the Malibu's in our fleet when the rodents chew on a wire when the car is parked in the lot overnight in the same space for a few days. For some reason, they go after the Malibu's and ignore the Stratus vehicles we have.
I had the same issue with my 06 A4 Avant. Traction light would come on an over-ride the engine. The dealer tried to fix the car several times but failed. Finally they said they placed an order for a new PC board that controlled the engine. They needed to get this direct from Audi in Germany and was made for my spacific vin number.... Worked like a charm. I have not had any issue since then.
Good Luck...
Michael
They weren't joking about the "bad gas." Some brands have additives which will help prevent the very problem you describe. Brands such as Shell, Texaco, Chevron, and Conoco are good. Avoid Mobil/Exxon and BP. Google this issue about gas. It's not just Audis which are affected.
There should have been information provided when you bought your car. With the other owner material was included a list of good gas brands. I already knew about it and have been careful about the gas we put in our other car--a Saab.
Earlier this year, Audi sent me notice of a fuel pump recall. The dealer inspected the fuel pump & said it did not need replacing. They charged me $689 for the 40K & sent me off warning me that all the brakes had to be replaced within 3 months.
Then, two days later I had to return the car to the dealer when all the gas leaked out of the car as I was filling it up. The dealer ended up replacing the fuel pump after all even though they supposedly had just inspected it & found nothing wrong. But, even then, they tried to argue that they were not at fault! I argued my case & ended up with free rental car for the 4 days it took to order the pump & fix the problem that supposedly wasn't a problem.
Now, one week later, the engine light suddenly came on & the car abruptly started running rough - VERY rough. I managed to get the car back to my house although I was nervous driving it. Once again I called the dealer who then cited numerous possibilities (along with the cost for each possibility) such as a failed catalytic converter (cost = approx.$1,500). Of course the dealer failed to mention how the recent poor maintenance (incident #1 & #2) might be a factor.
I had no problems with this car until after this 40K scheduled maintenance. Then a host of problems cropped up. I have two questions based on the above: (1) Can I drive this car back to the dealer without worrying about engine damage or should I opt for getting it towed?; (2) What are the probable causes of ENGINE LIGHT ON + ROUGH ENGINE following a "heavy" maintenance?
Thanks so much for any help you can give to me.
If you do a searc on the web for "audi coil pack diy" you'll likely find the best method.
Your car is just about the right age and mileage for this to happen and it's not uncommon at all. Just poor timing.
PS - that dealer sounds like a nightmare, you may do better finding a good independent shop in the area that specializes in German vehicles VW/Audi in particular. There are lots of them out there.
ALSO - in your "8-way Relay Carrier" there is a module that we must hold under suspicion, given its function:
Relay # 4 Power Window / Sunroof Control Module
i have an audi a4 2.8 v6 quattro 1998 automatic triptronic.
the problem is when i go like in 3 or 4 gear, the car start to shake a little bit (no matter if the car is in automatic or with the triptronic).
The slippage occurs in either of two situations: 1) during slight acceleration (feathering-in the gas pedal) on upward inclines without initiating a downshift (which I consider an engine lugging situation), and 2) during slight acceleration immediately after deceleration at 50-60 mph range. The slippage does not occur hard acceleration. No fault lights (red or yellow) are lit and VAG-COM scanning shows no DTC faults in any controller.
Someone told me that it was a faulty torque convertor, i want to know where i can buy that part over the internet. Or if someone can tell me how i can fix this problem.
Thanks
i have an audi a4 2.8 v6 quattro 1998 automatic triptronic.
My transmission finally broke down, my mechanic told me that is better to buy a used transmission rather than buy a new oem transmission pump and a rebuilt torque converter. the thing is that the second option it's cheaper than the first one, but my mechanic is skeptical about oem products. What should i do????
So you might ask the dealer: "Well, if it's not leaking, then it must be burning it, and if it burns 1 quart every 1000 miles, then you owe me an engine".
Or you might suggest to Audi that every Audi dealership have a banner in the window advertising those "specs".
They don't want to risk opening up your transmission and take the warranty issues that come with it. The used tranny will be on you if it goes bad.
Anyway,
I have the same model and year with 137k miles. Would you mind telling how your tranny finally failed and at what mileage? What were the symptoms just before?
This will help me decide what to do with this car.
Thanks in advance for your help.
D :confuse:
The slippage occurs in either of two situations: 1) during slight acceleration (feathering-in the gas pedal) on upward inclines without initiating a downshift (which I consider an engine lugging situation), and 2) during slight acceleration immediately after deceleration at 50-60 mph range. The slippage does not occur hard acceleration. No fault lights (red or yellow) are lit and VAG-COM scanning shows no DTC faults in any controller. Also on cold starts it won shift normally
the other day the car start to make i extrange noise and i saw smoke coming out of the engine, and that was when the mechanical told me that it was a bad trasmission pump. all that with less than 65K (i don't know for sure if the mileage was trick or something, but the car belong to a woman before me that claim she almost didn't used it )
the mechanic told me that the torque converter it's ok, but the transmission pump not, other option that i have it's to buy a used (in good shape) transmission pump, what do you thing??
Specs: 2006 Audi A4 (registered Sept 2006)
2.0T Automatic Quattro
It is certified upto 6yrs/100,000 miles.
Is this a good deal and how is the reliability of this car? Can I trust the Audi certified warranty?
I think a bad PCV could definitely cause more oil burning however, forcing oil past the rings and giving us the phenomenon called "blowby".
Another sign of blowby might be a very oily air filter.
I have an 02 1.8T with about 78k miles on it. I recently had to have the battery replaced and now I'm experiencing electrical issues. It started with the dome light and door open lights staying on after the doors were all closed. Then the windows stopped working. Sometimes everything would be fine, but the last few days the windows aren't working and the dome light remains on.
My local mechanic suggested there was some sort of TSB out there regarding water getting into the wiring harness. The numbers he gave me were: Recall: Group 97; Number 02-01, Date: Oct 2, 2002. Subject: Door Electrical Components Malfunctioning.
Has anyone experienced this problem? Is it a recall? Is it covered by Audi or should I expect to pay a large chunk of change?
Thanks.
Does this sound like your symptoms?
Group: 97
Number: 02-01
Date: Oct. 2, 2002
Subject:
Door Electrical Components, Malfunctioning
Model(s):
A4 2002
Condition
Electrical components operated via door control modules and/or switches malfunctioning such as window regulators, instrument cluster door ajar light, interior lights and door lights. Symptoms include:
^ Doors cannot be locked or unlocked by remote control.
^ Window regulators do not work.
^ Inside lights sporadically do not go out.
^ Display in cluster shows doors open when all doors are shut.
^ Door lights do not work. Vehicle may exhibit one or more of these symptoms at the same time.
May be caused by water ingress into the wire harness contact housing at the A-pillar or B-pillar which leads to corrosion of individual terminals.
1. Are they familiar with this corroded terminal business and have they done it before? (If so, they know right where to look)
2. Where ARE these corroded terminals? Accessible or buried somewhere.
it would be great if you showed them the TSB and asked them what they know about it.
If you are in the San Francisco area I can send you to excellent Audi people.
They asked if the car had been in deep water (we've had floods in the area) - my car hasn't, btw. So I guess they know something about it. But they didn't mention the TSB at all.
I guess I need to prepare myself for an expensive repair. :-(