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We only put high octane (91 or 93) tier one gas (Shell, Chevron, Texaco) in the car. Any thoughts from anyone? Why would Audi need pictures?
Thanks,
Dave
On the other one sorry can't help with that.
I'm just teasing you--I had a Brand X car that had 7 nuts to remove to get the air filter out, and three of those nuts were different sizes!!
http://www.audiforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1005085#post1005085
I have an arbitration thru Better Business Bureau with Audi. It'd be good if we all could build a case and try to get our cars replaced.
Similar to another poster here on this forum. I started having problems with my window on my driver's side not going all the way up.
Then the other day my door ajar indicator came on for no reason along with the dome lights and audible warning signal. The audible sound would last for a couple minutes and then go off but this door ajar problem seems to happen when I apply the brake, or sometimes turn on or off the radio or heater.
Also I can not lock my drivers side door by remote
Now until I get some money together I can get away with having the dome light out and using the key to lock my door but the audible warning is just too much. Also now when I put the head light on the audible won't just beep but it will stay on at a steady
sound until it shuts its self off and then maybe come back on later. Right now for the time being I need to disengage the audible system but I cannot find the fuse
that may be connected to it. Nor do I know if there is a fuse for this. Since I could not find it on the fuse arrangement diagram in the owner's manual. If any one might know of this feel free to give a reply
Now, my 2006 Audi is doing the same thing after two weeks of driving. I am dreading the thought of going through the same thing again.
When I took the 2003 to the dealer, I was always told it tested fine. After 5 repair attempts and being told "it was fine" I drove 28 miles to the dealer when it began blowing cold air so that they could see the problem first hand. They seemed surprised and still were unable to fix it. While this was going on, my brake light fuse kept blowing out and I had to have the light (fuse) replaced 4 times. I thought maybe the problems were related and were electrical? Someone familiar with Audi mechanicals said the problem sounded like the jay flap could be sticking and that he's heard a lot about this problem with Audis???? What is a jay flap?
Has anyone had this problem with their car? I just got back from a short trip with the 2006 Audi and I got a message that the brake light is out. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am reliving Audi hell.
DMA2
Is anyone aware of a consumer that has been successful using state lemon law rules to get out from owning an A4 with this quality problem. I am shocked that Audi and my dealership (in MN) is not standing behind this vehicle and making it right or replacing it.
Disappointed in Audi.
When ice accumulates on the blades, snow and water accumulate on the window - causing visibility problems. Called my InternationalAuto Audi service department - no other customers with similar problems and no suggestions.
Any ideas / thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Live in Minn. and had similar experience with 2002, A4. Found that too much heat causes snow to melt, ice up and stick to the blades. Tried running with minimum window defrost and most times snow does not stick to window, it just blows off as it doesn't get a chance melt and then freeze, unless its the wet heavy stuff which does build up at times. Then I usually stop, Prestone spray window de-icer from the can and seems to do the trick. Also, are you using a good name brand windshield washer fluid or the cheap stuff. Good brands will also help and the cheaper ones are usually no help in the problem as they tend to make it worse. Does your model have the windshield washer fluid heater? If it does, see if the fluid is spraying out warm or cold. Other than that not much else to offer.
Cheers
I was out of town for a week and upon my return, found my car would not start. I did have someone at home drive it a couple of times while I was gone but they said they had no troubles. I tried to restart my car the next day since it was very cold the previous night but again, it was hesitant to start. I tapped the gas a couple of times while turning the ignition and it finally started; I haven't had any problems starting it since.
My check engine light is on. Someone suggested it could be clogged fuel injectors, so I got a bottle of Techron and put it in the tank. I drove about a quarter tank of gas and the car ran fine, however, my oil needs changed and since the check engine light is on, I'm very hesitant to drive an entire tank of gas.
I turned the car on again this evening for awhile and noticed a strong scent of gasoline, I believe coming from the front of the car. I've had continuous problems with the dealership near me and don't want to take my car in and be charged hundreds of dollars for nothing, so I was wondering if someone has had similar problems and what remedied the situation.
Then I read what Audi owners seem to go through and it scares me. While my Honda and Lexus cause me very few problems, I am appalled by the way Audi apparently treats their customers. In the few issues that I have had with the Lexus and Honda my dealers made every effort to satisfy me. I had warped rotors on the Honda (at 27k) and my service rep got Honda to pay for new rotors. I had a very slight pulsation in the brakes of my Lexus (at 15K) and my Lexus was returned the same day with 4 new rotors and sets of pads without even mentioning it to me, and of course, free of charge.
I can live with a car that has a few problems (I have an Audi dealer near my house) but I simply do not have the time or desire to spend my time fighting with the dealer to repair items that should not fail in the first place. Also it sounds like Audi of America does not seem to care very much about its clients.
They claim they can get it certified but how do i know it's not just a extended warranty?
It's an 07 A4 with low miles and still has the manufacturers warranty. Please help!
VW/Audi credit is linked together. But not sales and the dealerships are different.
Thanks :confuse:
d
d
Just from my own experience -- back in the days when living in Europe, i had two used German cars with automatic transmission, not Audi's though. Both at some point of time had a problem similar to yours, solution was transmission flush in one case, and fluid change in other. So i think there's nothing to be afraid of.
You better have your transmission fixed sooner than later! And dont forget to replace the filter too.
Audi and BMW dealer around the corner and my Acura dealer is 1 hour away. Luckily nothing goes wrong with my Acuras . (knock on wood)
The new A4 really looks like a sweet ride, much improved over previous generation and at a better value than it's BMW competitor. However, frequent trips to the service dept. for a $40k vehicle does not sound appealing to me. Anyone have any good reports about their A4's reliability?
One thing about all of these high-end cars that introduce new gadgets - the gadgets are what tends to break down / be less reliable. Makes one yearn for a simpler vehicle. :-)
Statistically insignificant statements follow, but here you go. 2007 A4 MT with 42,000 miles. Exactly zero problems with this car. Nada. Does not burn oil. I have never added additional oil to this engine. No squeeks, no rattles, except for the interior map light emmiting a rattle now and then.
No doubt someone will retort with a story of a pos 1.8t. Whatever.
Any big dollar items should be scrutinized heavily.
Went to an independent dealer who quoted $2,500 (11 hrs. labor, $953 for the new part). They need to drop the transmission, re-align the wheels, etc. and it sounded reasonable. The local dealer quoted $3,700 for the same repair. I think I take the first option.
My question to the community, I haven't experienced any significant clutch slippage, only a very subtle jerk in 1st/2nd gear transitions. Has anybody ever destroyed a transmission by driving like this without getting it repaired ? I know I have, a '81 French Citroen CX2500 with 80k mi and a '71 Plymouth Satellite at 90k. Both were POS cars.
From what I have read, the computer will shut down the car if the slippage becomes too strong. Not sure if I want to take that chance.
Don't spend unless you have to. Cheers, -atmfrank
Today I was driving, and the CEL went off by itself. I have no idea what is going on, I thought the CEL won't go off until I replace the torque converter. Therefore, it makes me wonder, what is the real problem...