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Thanks,
Mike
:sick:
Mike
So all in all I think the guy was straight with you. Yes you could have skipped the flywheel perhaps, and put in a cheaper aftermarket clutch kit, and maybe the job would be 1800 bucks, but you know, this is not the kind of task you want to do twice.
And it should last the car's normal lifespan from this point on.
Thanks again!
Mike
Good luck. audiphile1
I looked in the Audi manual as well and it says that if the check engine light comes on and starts blinking the way it is now that it's a faulty cat converter. Also the person that checked the computer said that cylinders 2 and 5 are misfiring.
Engine mis-fires and bad spark plugs/coil packs will basically send raw gasoline into the exhaust and ultimately damage the converter. I believe that if you fix the mis-fire issues that should help in that regard. A good run at full operating temperatures will also help once you fix that issue. You should not drive the vehicle until this is resolved that is why the engine light is blinking and not just remaining on.
If you fix the mis-fire issues the blinking light should go off but you may still have a solid check engine light due to the evaporator issue. That fix may be made after the fact but if you want to save expensive repairs to the catalytic converter you should fix that mis-fire matter immediately.
sue that ur own fault thats the problem with this country everbody wants to sue when its there own fault.Audi's are great cars and will last forever as long as u take care of them and do all the scheduled maintenace so good luck trying to sue its right in the handbook about the timing lol !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You may not have noticed that you were replying to a post that is almost four years old. I imagine the situation has been resolved one way or another by now.
Let's ease up on the name-calling, okay? You can certainly discuss the fact that changing timing belts and performing other scheduled maintenance are requirements to keep the vehicle running properly, but let's be civil about it.
Thanks!
My cars are purchased brand new, I hang on to them for a long time, get regular maintenance, oil changes, and parts replaced when the record books say they need to be or if needed, and are driven well. I've always driven manual transmitions and feel I drive very well. This car does not even have a ding on it!
I purchased my Audi A4 1.8 T (5 speed manual) AWD, brand new in 2003 and except for the high cost of maintanence, I've been really happy with my Audi. It beats the heck out of my last car; a Suburu Outback (although I still think the subaru drove better in the snow). It's got great tires on it (almost new) and this car has been fun to own and drive. It's a commuter car, has high miles as I live in the country and commute to the city. About 135,000 miles. Mostly freeway miles.
That said, after my last tire purchase (same nice Michelon tires that I had on it before, which I remember being really quiet) about 4 months ago the car developed a low "growling" sound. It is pretty loud and the faster the car goes, the louder it gets. My friend who had not ridden in my car since this started yesterday commented "what's wrong with your Audi? I've never heard it sound like this? The engine sounds so loud!" You don't notice it much driving around town slow, but get this baby on the highway and you have to turn the radio up really loud to hear it or talk above normal to be heard.
This sounds ljust ike when you are shifting to a higher gear and ran up the RPM's a bit too high (not that I'VE ever done that). The sound is EXACTLY the same if I'm in 5th gear going up hill, down hill OR COASTING downhill in neutral. It's pretty loud and the faster the car is going, the louder it gets,
The temperature gauze has not changed. Stays right in the middle between cold and hot. Never moves after the car is going.
The check engine light has never come on.
It's annoying and although the car appears to drive just fine, I'm wondering if:
A: it COULD be the new tires?
B. Is something seriously wrong and I'm doing damage by continuing to commute in this car without getting it checked?
C. If it is the engine, why hasn't the check engine light come on, and what it could be?
Where should I start? Tires? Engine? Start looking at new cars again?
Thanks in advance to anyone that might be able to help me with this.
You will likely need replacement of the offending part but I would not drive it too much before you have it checked out as a bad bearing can wither seize or let go and leave you stranded and with more damage to the vehicle.
I have had the sunroof drain cleared but that has not solved the problem.
I currently own a Lincoln Navigator. I'm wondering if repair and maintenance costs would be comparable to what I own now, higher, or lower. I had a Ford Explorer before that, so obviously the repair costs were cheaper on that than the Navigator.
I'm just trying to get information online via reviews and just doing as much research as I can before I decide to purchase or not.
Thanks in advance for any information!
Erin
If Riverside Audi isn't fixing the problem, bring it to another Audi dealer. Palisades Audi on Rt. 59 in Nyack has always taken care of me and will give you one of their loaner cars for $15 a day.
Also, I had a speed sensitive growl once; turned out to be a bad motor mount. Engine was thusly making odd noises as it wasn't stable. Might not be the problem discussed a few posts up, but thought I'd mention it.
Thanks! :shades:
http://www.audi-forums.com/b6-forum/46777-cupholder-removal-replacement.html
It does not give any real details or photos but does give a hint as to how it can be removed and a new one installed. Hope it helps.
Cheers
I'm having the same problem with my A4. Just started yesterday.
Were you able to determine the issue? How was it resolved? Any help is greatly appreciated.
First, it seems like the locking mechanism fell out in one of the back doors. The rest of the car will lock and alarm except that door.
Second, If i turn the key back to far while its in the igniton, then it seems to come loose. The key and the ignition will just spin in the socket until it catches. The third and most important one is the Gear shifter.
The transmission is an automatic, with the auto manual. The problem I have is that after about a minute of drive time it seems to want to go hay wire. While in drive it will bounce back and fourth between auto manual and regular auto. Then while in reg auto position, it will get stuck in auto manual, so I have to click it over to auto manual to shift. Sometimes it wont even shift in that position, sometimes it will get stuck in what ever gear it happens to be in when shifted over. THEN, while in auto manual it will shift back over to drive. It’s a cluster f#$k, and it gets annoying.
The car drives and rides awesome when it wants to but these problems are frustrating.
"I never met anyone who sold a car because it was running too well."
When you buy new, you are much less likely to encounter hosts of flaky issues (please note, I didn't say "won't encounter flaky issues"). My wife and I have owned 6 German cars over my 29 year driving career (hers too) and the only ones that were problematic were the two that we purchased used (my first car was a 73 super beetle, my wife's was a 77 Scirocco). Yes, those two had problems.
Aside from that:
- 87 GTI - sold at 213,000 miles, sold still running (though it did need some engine work)
- 86 Golf - sold at 194,000 miles, sold just due to us needing more room (we had our third child and needed more room). It was running like a champ, the interior & exterior were like new. The guy who bought it was bloody ecstatic (he was a college kid, so my wife demanded we give it to him for a low price).
- 99 Passat - sold at 224,800 miles, sold it running still beautifully, but I wanted something new, it was 9+ years old. Interior like new, exterior pretty close to new.
- now on an 07 Audi A4 (practically brand spanking new, 12,700 miles). May it lead a long life.
On German cars purchased new, we're happy with 4 of 4.
On the two purchased used, the Scirocco was a real headache - only well after my wife (girlfriend at the time) bought it did we find out it had been in a major accident. We wished we could have loved that car.... The beetle had been horribly abused, but my father and I rebuilt it - we had it about 150k miles (over what it already had on it). Sold it only because I simply lacked the time to maintain it and cute little field mice were making their homes in it.
Buy used, you're rolling the dice (and the odds are not so good)
Buy new, you're rolling the dice (but the odds are a hell of a lot better)
If you buy it new, maintain it! Real keys are oil change (every 5k miles, full synth oil only) and timing belts (follow the recommendations religously).
Oh, and we always buy manual tranny's (except for a Volvo wagon and 04 Sienna for the wife). The manual transmissions are *much* more reliable than automatics and these new fangled DSG's. On any of the cars bought new, we *never* had any transmission issue or even replaced a clutch. The DSGs have not been around long enough to say how reliable they will be, but they are more complex, so I would anticipate them to be less reliable.
OK, I'll get off my soap box now. :-)
You make a good argument for buying new. However, I have been forced to work under a different program so far. I say to myself, I can not afford to make $300-$500 payments every month to own a new car, so I will need to find the best darn used car out there and then expect to spend about $500-$800 per year on maintenance. That way I get to drive a really good car but I'm not tied down on payments every month. That being said, I have a 99 Audi A4 Quattro with 147k miles on it and running pretty smoothly. I have had for four years now and have done all the major maintenance on it. However, this being my first Audi, I just wonder how long I should keep it before either the transmission or the engine will fail on me. Any thoughts or inputs are appreciated.