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Is it a manual or automatic? The manuals will go a LONG time unless you abuse the hell out of the clutch. The engine, if treated well with religious maintenance (synth oil w/ new filter every 5000 miles, you MUST do the timing belt change as per the manual) will easily surpass 200,000 miles and I would even expect it (if I had it new) to surpass 250,000 miles. I had the 1.8T engine in my 99 Passat and it ran like a champ (224,800 miles when I sold it).
If you have the space, you could always do a search for a similar Audi in a graveyard that had an accident that took out the rear end. If you have 6+ months to search, you should be able to find something. So, what I am suggesting here is start searching now (well in advance of needing the part) and see what you can get it for. Buying new from Audi would be PRICEY (though of course FAR more reliable than getting something out of the car graveyards).
17090 P0706 Driving range sensor => -F125 1)
Implausible signal..
this is the code i am having now .
multitronic will sheft to S . and i have to go to N and then park , this time i have flashing PRNDS but every thing work fine from there .
this keeps happening every day .
please help .
The other light that is flashing is a round symbol that has the letters MPH in the middle....Anyone know what that symbol means?
do you know how to solve it ???
help me !!!
If you're talking about the MPH light, I believe this MIGHT be related to a "speed warning system" that you can set yourself. I think you use the clock button or something to set a max speed, and when you exceed that, you get a warning. If you hold the button for several seconds, it will delete the setting. Check your owners manual for instructions, or maybe someone else has more specific advice. Good luck...audiphile1
i don't know what to do.
please hlp me.
I bought my Audi in March of 09 with 112k its a auto with manual auto, so far the car has been great.
I'm up to 115k now and I'm having some minor issues with it.
I don't know much about cars, I bought my Audi because its AWD and I've heard good things about German made cars as opposed to American made.
Anyhow, my Audi is shifting sluggishly, occasionally the RPMs will jump up then level back out quickly. also around 70-80 the car has a mild shudder, or wobble.
I did have my tires replaced and balanced just recently, so the shudder must be something else(I would guess)
I'm planning on taking it to the dealership to get diagnosed, but I was hoping someone might be able to shed some light on the problem
Thanks in advance for anyones help
http://www.mylemon.com/VW_18T.php
Also, I had an issue with my A4 1.8T about 2 years back and after discussing it with a "former Audi Service Tech" who had opened his own shop, he related that sometimes the internal oil seal around the valve cover will fail causing oil to fill the space between the coil pack and the valve cover. He claimed that the hot oil could cause the insulator in the coil pack to degrade and possibly short the coil pack out over time. A check of my A4 revealed that there was indeed a oil leak at the valve cover, as noted by oil covering the end of the coil pack and by the oil in the space around the spark plug. The oil was about 3/4" deep and had worked its way into the inside of the insulator. As I work on my own vehicles, (mostly due to poor dealer experiences and their ridiculous costs) I replaced the valve cover gasket simply because of the leak a pretty simple straight forward job (under 2 hours) and parts were not too expensive (under $50) and replaced the coil pack that failed (under $40). Now at oil change, I routinely pull the packs and inspect for leaks. No additional problems noted for past 25,000 miles.
Additionally, in 2003 VW & Audi did a major recall replacing all ignition coils whether they fail or not on many vehicles, mine included.
The vehicles affected in this action included cars equipped with 1.8 liter engines, such as the Audi TT and A4; and the VW Golf/GTI, Jetta, New Beetle and Passat. VW & Audi also included the Passat W8 engine, all VW's equipped with the 2.8 liter VR6; as well as the Audi 3.0 liter V6 engine. In total, approximately 530,000 cars were affected by this action.
I do not know if a similar recall was ever issued for later models or types but it may prove beneficial to check this web page for additional links to the problem:
http://www.fennelfamily.com/gti-vr6/engine/coil_pack_recall/index.html
Hope this info helps you out. Good luck and happy driving!!!
Please help !!
Thanks.
Good luck, and let us know what happens. audiophile1
Your claim to warranty may have a very thin leg to stand. If the dealer has replaced the part that went bad on the past two repairs under warranty, you could make the arguement that even though the original car warranty may have expired, the warranty on the PART has not. In good faith, they may elect to repair window and replace the part free but charge you the labor. I had a similar issue with the antenna modules on my A-4. The dealer installed a new unit under warranty about 8,000 miles before the warranty ran out. 1200 miles after the warranty ran out the part failed again. I made the arguement and we decided to split the cost, me paying the labor and the dealer paying the cost of the part. It is worth a try especially if you make a big enough stink that the part did not have 50,000 miles on it. Good luck and let the readers know the outcome.
My car has 57K miles and I've been very fortunate with my Audi. Outside of the window issue, I haven't had any problems. However, it's a bit concerning since the cost of repair is so HIGH. I'll be posting a new thread on extended warranty.
Off-topic: One of my DRL bulbs needs to be replaced and when I asked the service rep, he said that the whole bumper needs to be removed. That's just ridiculous!
24,000 miles - $2,100
36,000 miles - $2,800
48,000 miles - $3,800
I have a 2005.5 A4 3.2Q with 57K miles and wondering if it will be money well spent to get extended warranty. As I posted on my previous thread, I just spent $320 to replace a window regulator and that's a highly discounted price, which would've been covered under this plan.
Any advice here?
August 31, 2004
Audi to Extend Warranty on Certain Models Due to Oil Sludge Problems
Source: Associated Press
Volkswagen of America Inc. has extended its warranty coverage of certain models for problems caused by oil sludge, which can cause engine damage.
In the past few days, the company has sent letters to about 400,000 Volkswagen Passat and Audi owners informing them of the extended warranty, Volkswagen spokesman Steve Keyes said Tuesday. The company took the measure after receiving reports of engine problems caused by sludge, a buildup of old or dirty engine oil that thickens and hinders engine lubrication.
The problem generally is caused by failure to change the oil on time or by the use of low-quality oil, Keyes said. It affects 1998 to 2004 Passats and 1997 to 2004 Audi A4s that have a 1.8-liter turbo four-cylinder engine.
Volkswagen is extending its usual five-year, 50,000-mile warranty to eight years with no mileage limit on repairs related to sludge, Keyes said. The additional warranty is fully transferrable.
Best,
Mike
I wanted to get an A4 but I was horrified to see the Consumer Reports data for VW/Audi. I trust the report because they got my current car spot-on. The A4 was not nearly as bad as the Passat or Jetta, but they share the same base 2.0 engine. I'm still tempted though....Not sure what to do
My 99 A4 has recently been shutting off during driving while I brake or turn. Seems to me like the extra tourque required by the brake pump or steering pump is enough to shut off the engine. Does anyone know what could be the cause?
Thanks in advance for your help.
:confuse:
Hope this helps, and do what we do here in Texas...have patience...that's why God gave us Tony Romo.
Cheers
But yes, rust penetrant, patience and maybe some vice grips are the best way to go.
Thanks in advance.
into a good independent Audi tech and have all systems checked. With 83k, a few things to watch for: 1) You don't mention model year, but it's getting close to the spec (90k) for TIMING BELT change, and many owners change it at even 75-80k. This is an "interference" engine...if the belt breaks, you could blow the engine. Figure $900-1,000 cost to change belt; 2) Jack up the front end and verify control arms and tie rod ends are solid. If bad, you could be looking at $1,000+ unless you're a do-it-yourselfer; and 3) I would not buy this car without service records which verify use of VW/Audi-approved synthethic oil (Pentosin or Mobil 1 5W-40 etc. These engines are prone to sludging, and if you don't have the service records, you are probably SOL. Once again, take it into a good tech before buying! Good luck. audiophile1
Vas is los mit der marketingeng departmenten? Sie forgotteningen der solid, basic krautenrockert mit der AWD und manual transmissionnen fur der station vagonen.
Achh! Hoi! Ver is der solid AWD krautrocken station vagonen mit der manual transmisionen?
could anyone help me ?
1. You state that a diagnostic system was put on the engine. Did it record or do you have any codes related to the misfiring? If you have the codes it could help to narrow down the problem.
2. You relate that you checked the compression and got a good value for only one cylinder. Did you do the compression check correctly? For proper check, Audi Tech info requires that the engine oil temperature be at least 85 degrees; the fuel pump fuse be removed; all plugs pulled; fully open throttle valve; attach compression tester and crank engine until the tester shows no further pressure increase. This will give you most accurate compression check. Tech info also shows that on new engine, compression can be 9-14 bars ( 130-200 psi) and the minimum acceptable compression is 7.5 bars (110 psi) with allowable difference between cylinders being 3.5 bars (44 psi). If your readings are within this range, then it is fairly safe to say that the head seal is good (from what I have found, the 1.8 engine head gasket usually does not fail too often).
3. When you pulled the plugs, what did they look like, did they have discoloration? Sooty? Burnt? Correctly gapped? Any deposits that would indicate oil or coolant leaks? Did you replace then when you replaced the coils?
4. Additional info on misfire that you should check is: Faulty spark plug; Faulty ignition wires with connector; Faulty fuel injectors; Crankshaft housing leak (check the hose setup of the crankcase ventilation system for secure seating and proper seal) as this will also cause problems with engine firing correctly (emissions issues)
Hope this info helps you diagnose your problems. Let the group know of your success.
Cheers
Mercops
Did the survey and gave the dealer and car 5 stars (based on my BMW experience if you mark anything on the survey low Corporate slams the dealer, regardless of any facts.) I noted on the survey I wanted someone from corporate to call me - no one did - and just spoke with my sales rep to get me a name and number. I admit the part is not critical but it is disturbing they don't have one part in the country on a new car and no idea when it will be in.
Is this an isolated incidendent or can I expect this to be a routnine occurence? thanks
To be fair, sometimes replacement parts on a brand new model *are* hard to come by. I just don't like the "no clue" part of their answer as to timeframe.
Will post again after Friday after visit to the dealer. Thanks to all for their comments.