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Under the recall the dealer will inspect and install new ignition coils free of charge. Also, Audi will reimburse owners out-of-pocket expenses for any replacements that were made prior to the recall as long as you have your supporting documents. You can check with your local dealer or possibly get the forms for submittal on-line.
I believe I am not alone. Many of us thinks the front of the 09 A4 is really too low, yes, that is how it happened. Right under the fog light, the edgy bumper of my A4 hit something and left a dent on the edge. I tried to get a dent repair guy and he said he could not do anything since this is not a dent on the side or any major part of the body. Plus the bumper is plastic, a bent-in on a plastic edge is not fixable to him.
I have read solutions for plastic bumpers, unfortunately, our A4 edgy bumper is a thick piece that you could not reach in from behind and push the dent out. I tried to use a small device to suck it out (after heating the bumper with hair dryer), but the edge made it impossible for a complete seal, which lost the sucking power. Any thoughts on this? Otherwise, I guess I should convince myself that it is so small a dent or convince myself it is worth it to pay $400 - 500 for a small dent.
Do you really think you have a sludge issue? As you note, you may have been using the wrong oil. As for the oil issue, Audi/VW oil is no better than a good brand name oil that meets the viscosity and API service requirements for the car. If you are using an oil meeting the API service requirements you are OK. If you are now using the correct viscosity and a good brand your at least headed in the right direction. Heres why:
Synthetic oil breaks down at a much higher temperature than mineral/petroleum based oils. Say your synthetic (dependant upon brand) 0w-40 or 5w40 synthetic breaks down at 450 degrees F, your conventional mineral/petroleum based oil probably degrade around 275 degrees F. Synthetics tend to adhere and stay on surfaces whereas regular oil runs off and pools at the low point. Synthetics also protects better against corrosion and protects an over-heated engine. Every turbine engine in the worlds runs using synthetic oil because it can withstand the high operating temperatures. Now consider how hot an exhaust driven turbo-charger gets. The bearings are the weak point. That is why you must use the right grade and API type.
Best bet is to determine if you really have a sludge issue in the first place, before attempting to "de-sludge". One of the first indicators of a problem would be decreased oil pressure which can result from clogged oil passages. This will undoubtedly eat your turbcharger first as it is the hottest part of the car that requires oil. If you have good oil pressure (no warning lights, etc.) you can also do a relatively easy check by removing the oil cap and visually looking to see if there is any major accumulation of sludge in the valve head oil valleys or on the valve arms themselves. If you are really enegetic and have a good set of tools, you can always remove the valve cover (requires a new gasket kit and sealer) and visually inspect the underside of the cover (it WILL have a hard varnish looking residue, not a big deal) to determine if there is a major build up. Also as your car has more than 50k on it you may as well clean the valve cover and replace the gasket as they do leak oil over time. This is also a good time to check the oil seals around the spark plug coils.
As a reminder, use only approved oils, do not exceed the manufacturer's change interval (better yet, change it at 4,000 miles, use Mann filters) and make it a point to give the turbo a minute or two of cool-down time after high speed or highway driving, which will prevent the oil from "coking" in the turbocharger's bearings.
Hope this helps, good luck, and don't forget the extended warranty being provided for sludge issues if you do have them.
Cost outlay would only be for the oil (correct synthetic type & API recommendation) and good filtration. I try to stay with Mobil 1 Synthetic as it is a Group IV PAO synthetic oil and is probably one of the best on the market and is comparably priced.
This process would help to flush any residual non-spec oil out of the engine and help to "clean" the internal parts of the engine.
Again, one of the things that you can do to ensure you Audi keeps running is "routine" owner maintainance and a good inspection when changing the oil and servicing the car. These are the times to "catch" those small items before they worsen, plus you get to know your car and what is in need of attention.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Cheers
Mercops
As for your comment relating to the prior owner not being diligent, Do not blame the owner. I own a 2002 A-4 Quattro that I took to the dealer religiously and I thought it was well maintained. After the car went off of warranty several problems popped up that sort of focused "lack of Dealer attention" to the car when it was in for normal servicing. Most notably, at 51k miles was the "non-service" of the air filter (engine air) that was not changed, (clogged with leaves, dirt & bugs) even though it was logged (at 40k miles) in the paperwork by the dealer that it had. Dealers have been know, especially when "performing" maintenance services during the first 50k to sometimes "pencilwhip" some of the items that need servicing. This is for several reasons...1 they get reimbursed by the parent company (AUDI-USA), 2. Their service dept. is usually understaffed and focusing on big money repairs, not the mundane items. So for the dealer its a win-win, low labor, easy reimbursement and the customer generally never questions it until the warranty runs out...then they are on their own.
I said it earlier, best to crawl around inside your own car and be familiar with it by doing the routine maintenance yourself. Then you know it was done, it was done correctly, and you can take pride in making it run as it should.
http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2748634
Mike
:confuse:
I didn't see any drips under the car (like I had recently). This oil issue is getting to be a real pain and I'm considering pursuing Lemon Law relief.
The car is is 2007 A4 2.0. Any advice?
If you are referring to the "cylinder head cover" that covers the overhead cams, it is fairly straight forward for an A-4 with 1.8 turbo engine.
Several "useful things to buy (have on hand) before you start:
1-Several (6-8) 11/4 - 11/2 thin hose clamps to replace any of the original that must be cut or pried off)
2-Small bunch (8-10) of plastic wire ties for replacing the ingition coil one that must be cut to remove the wires from the "cylinder head cover" and to replace any found broken.
3-Clean repeat, clean rags
4-Spray can of brake cleaner for cleaning the cover once removed from the engine
5-Plastic baggies for the loose nuts, bolts, etc that you remove. As you remove a piece, keep all the associated nuts, bolts, etc with the piece you remove. If things are kept clean and orderly, re-assembly is a quick process. I usually tie the bag of items to the part and place out of the way.
6-Gasket and sealing ring kit (plus specified gasket adhesive for the 2 cross over gaskets).
7-Also find a digital camera works well to document each step of the process as you go, so you can refer to where certain nuts, bolts, wires and parts go, should you get confused.
8. Air filter should you chose to change it while you are in there.
For model years 2002-2007 engines, here is the process from the manual:
Removal:
1-Remove the engine cover (plastic cover with logo & 3 screws)
2-Remove air cleaner cover, if equipped (plastic shield)
3-Remove 2 screws that hold air cleaner snorkel to front cowling; disengage EVAP canister purge regulator valve N80 from the air duct (at back of air duct where it attaches to filter box).
4-Remove air duct snorkel from air cleaner box by pulling unit to the back and pulling up.
Note: If you want to change the air filter, now is a good time. This is done by: Loosen and disconnect any other hose or adapter that attaches to the air cleaner housing. Loosen the screws that hold the air cleaner halves together and swing the air cleaner half towards the engine while lifting up. this exposes the air filter. (do not be alarmed if you find a lot of dirt, bugs and leaves) Remove the filter, clean the filter case (vacuum works best) and replace filter unit, then reassemble.
5-Remove crankcase breather line (it attaches to the rear of the "cylinder head cover" and is the top most metal pipe with 2 hose clamps, one on each end.
6-Remove the heat shield and secondary air combustion (metal pipe located below first metal pipe removed)Remove as each piece separately (heat shield first, metal pipe, second)
7-Remove the ground wire from the "cylinder head cover" (located between the front 2 spark plug ignition coils)
8-Disconnect the ignition coil connectors (located on each spark plug coil unit)
9-Move all wiring clear and pull out ignition coils by grasping firmly and slightly twisting to pull straight up.
10-Release the 2 retaining clips for the top section of the toothed belt guard; loosen the hose that runs along the front from its retainers; clean the guard before reinstalling as well as clean the exterior of the "cylinder head cover" with a clean rag to remove any dirt or grease.
11-Loosen (do not remove yet) the 9 nuts holding down the "cylinder head cover" (3 on the top (edge), 3 on the middle (inner) and 3 on the lower end (edge))
12-Remove the 9 nuts holding the "cylinder head cover" and gently rap thew cover to loosen it with either a rawhide or rubber mallet (or in lieu, rap against a soft piece of wood with a regular hammer. Don't overdo it as the cover is aluminum and can be misformed easily); lift the cover straight up off the studs.
13- The cover will now be removed. This is when you can clean it (I found "brake cleaner" works best) thoroughly. Remove and discard the gasket and sealing rings.
Installation:
1-Install in reverse order, paying attention to the following:
2-Replace gaskets and sealing rings with new units.
3-First tighten (snug enough but not over tightened) the inner nuts for the "cylinder head cover" starting in the middle working to the end; then tighten outer nuts in a diagonal sequence.
4- Ensure the top section of the toothed belt guard is seated correctly.
5-Tightening Specifications call for torque on "cylinder head cover" to cylinder head torque of 10Nm (you can get lb conversions at:
www.unitconversion.org/.../newton-meters-to-foot-pounds-conversion.html
Remember, take your time, proceed with direction and refer to your photos as you go and things will work out favorably.
Cheers,
Mercops
If this is a A4 - 1.8 engine, you are also most likely experiencing an erratic reading on the temperature guage, in that it "sticks" and then jumps to a higher temperature. You can bleed most, but not all of the air from the cooling system yourself if you are handy.
First routine (TAKES TWO PEOPLE, ONE IN THE CAR THE OTHER UNDER THE HOOD) is while the engine is cold, remove the coolant fill cap. Fill the reservoir to the required level (DO NOT OVERFILL). Start the engine and run the engine up to 1500 RPM for several minutes to heat the engine and coolant up to operating temperature, allowing the thermostat to open. Once it opens, the person under the hood should see the coolant level change as coolant is drawn into the engine and air is expelled. Maintain engine RPM's until most air is expelled, while topping off the fluid level. When most air has been expelled replace the coolant cap prior to dropping the engine RPM's to idle. (THIS IS IMPORTANT AS REDUCTION OF ENGINE RPM WITH CAP OFF WILL CAUSE COOLANT TO OVERFLOW THE RESERVOIR!!)
Additionally, on most model years of A4 1.8 engines there is located under the "plastic engine cover" a coolant pipe that runs from front of the engine to the rear on the side of the engine near the intake manifolds. Located about halfway down is a "allen screw" located on top of the pipe. With the engine in idle, (AND PRIOR PROCESS COMPLETED) you can loosen the allen screw partially (DO NOT REMOVE COMPLETELY!) this will allow any remaining air out of the pipe and the coolant system. You may need to refill the coolant level after this process also.
HOWEVER< SINCE YOU DID HAVE THE WORK DONE AT A SHOP THAT SHOULD KNOW BETTER< THEY SHOULD MAKE IT RIGHT !!!
Sadly, I was warned about the lack of quality in Audi vehicles and the unusual nature of the issues that can occur. For a luxury vehicle, the issues that I have experienced should not have occurred. Luxury just doesn't mean quality materials and expensive designs. It is about building a vehicle to a standard in which the owners do not have to spend their time and money on fixes that are on the periphery of the vehicles functionality.
I am not overly upset, I am disappointed in my purchase. I just feel stupid for ignoring my peers and purchasing an Audi. The quality just isn't there. The ownership and admission of legitimate issues isn't there.
I know that you hear this a lot, but I don't see myself ever purchasing an Audi again or recommending someone to purchase one. The total cost of repair, the time spent fixing/waiting for repairs to take place seem the trump all positive things that an Audi is.
When I bought this vehicle I was proud of driving it, but now I see it as one of the worst purchases I have ever made, and I bought my house in 2006 so that should tell you have much I regret this purchase.
I should have kept my Honda. No ignition coil problems, no fuel intake fan issues, no turbo valve malfunctioning, no air bag indicator light illuminating and no unlatched trunk (and yes, this has all happened in 6 months).
Audi, quality is not just meeting, but exceeding customer expectations. Whether it is a used or new vehicle, it's your name on that car. It's your reputation whether it was sold by an authorized dealer or Bob down the block. These issues would not have been caught by either. My expectations haven't even been exceeded, let alone met.
So what are you going to do? What is Audi North America going to do? I am going to suggest that in all likelihood nothing. I am just one customer with a list of complaints/concerns. In a grand scheme of things, this email could easily be forgotten. I hope not. Regardless, it's been rather therapeutic.
I hope this lands in the hands of someone who cares ; someone that has spent a great deal of money on something and felt slighted; someone with enough guts to do something about my concerns; someone to call, be an honest person and say 'these issues shouldn't be happening.'
Quality is your legacy. Take Ownership.
Sincerely,
Brian
I am not much of a car guy, so I wanted to solicit your knowledge/expertise on what seems to be a problem with my 03 A4 3.0's engine.
Not soon after I purchased my used A4 about 7 months ago, I noticed that my RPM goes up and down sometimes with noticeable "revving" noise when I put in in park. It doesn't do it all the time though. But now, I am noticing a similar problem while I am driving. When I slow down for a red light, I see my rpm goes up a tick or two as soon as it reaches the 1(1000) mark and comes down again. And I feel a slight push forward(but not to the point where I'd hit a car in front of me that's 5 feet away). I also notice a louder noise with car's engine. As I said, I really don't know too much about cars, so I wanted to ask for your kind feedback on what might be causing this. Does ignition coil have anything to do with this? or the fuel pump? Reason why I am asking this is because of the recent recalls regarding these two parts on my particular model and year.
I'd appreciate any feedbacks. Kindly.
on a A4 Audi.'96.
I've tried everything, AC on, high heat with full defrost fan, nothing works. (In fact the entire car is like a rainforest whenever the temp drops below +3 deg C, and is often worst around 0 deg C). Service has changed the filter, checked for leaves in the system, and other obvious fixes – and no fix. They're clueless, no ideas.
I heard something about a broken (puctured) heater core, which would leak anti-freeze and blow a mist of it onto the windshield. But we have plenty of heat, no problem. Any ideas??? Please help, this is dangerous. Thx.
Has anyone checked for a clogged line in your AC evaporator drain?
I know if you leave your HVAC setting on re-cycling condensation can build up.
You wouldn't even need a real "leak" to cause condensation from a heater core---just a weeping or wetness would probably do it. Coolant loss could be minimal.
The evaporator drain is important, since moisture is gathered up by the AC system (which operates when you are on defrost). If this gathered moisture has nowhere to go, it just sits there in the drip tray like a little swamp or fishtank.
There could be new forms of life down there!! :P
You may also need to rent or borrow a holding tool and a puller---special tools for this job.
Mechanic's time, with the right tools, is 4.0 hours.
Audi dealer has replaced fuel canister, to no avail. Now says needs to replace fuel floations(?) for $600, and if that does not work the whole fuel tank. This is a 2005 , of course past warranty.
What I'm driving at is the "return policy". If you guess wrong, do you own the coil or what?
How come the timing belt installation is slightly different on this model.
With it insisting that the line on the crankshaft pulley must be aligned with the dot on the intermediate shaft sprocket.
When the orginal came of the engine was running perfectly but the dot did not match.
On other engine codes it says not to worry as it only drives the oil pump.
Perlexed
Thanks for the suggestions, will look into these and see (hopefully, through the fog) what happens.
Message #1707 Re: Gas tank problems [leejamesk] by jweaver1 Dec 30, 2007 (6:10 pm) I had a problem with my ex- 2003 A4-3.0 in that the gas pump would also shut off. I pulled the nozzle out and stuck a pencil into the filler tube, and could feel (and smell) the fuel vapors escaping from my fuel tank. After the pressure was relieved, I could continue to fill the tank. It finally happened when ...
Message #1685 Re: Gas tank problems [samaudi] by leejamesk Dec 19, 2007 (5:45 am) I had this similar problem and it is the little spring-flap inside the Audi fill-pipe that blocks the gas from going-in. You need to really push the gas filler deep into the pipe so as to ensure the ...
Also, don't place much faith in your dealership, especially when they want to "split" the difference in a repair especially when fuel vapor recovery (evaporation recovery) and emission related items may be covered under the Federal Emissions Warranty Law. You may want to check the Fed Website for more specific info as I believe it covers vehicles for 8 years/80,000 miles.
Cheers,
Mercops