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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • windrider354windrider354 Member Posts: 1
    The timing belt advisory isn't exactly a "recall". What they said was that there is a revised maintenance schedule which calls for inspection at 40K and 80K and replacement at 105K. If at inspection they determine that the belt should be replaced then that is at owner expense. I suspect that all "inspections" will result in a recommendation to replace. But if there has been a timing belt failure in the past, or if there is a failure after an inspection, then Audi America will supposedly pay for the engine repair. The class action suit really only affects people who had a belt failure and engine damage prior (roughly) to the June, 2005 announcement.
  • bjbrooksbjbrooks Member Posts: 11
    What does greenish-yellow fluid under the car mean? This is the latest of ENDLESS problems I have had with this car. I can't wait to sell it! In 3 1/2 years w/ under 55k miles, the horn has stopped working twice; the glove box would not open; the radio would not turn OFF; the windshield wipers went out ($400). Now the check engine indicator is on and there is this fluid under the car. I will NEVER buy another Audi! :mad:
  • craigp1craigp1 Member Posts: 17
    I have a 2003 A4 and also experienced this problem. It's no fun trying to refuel when it is 10 degrees and windy. Anyway, after trying many different methods, I have figured out how to solve this problem.

    If the pump shuts off as you begin fueling, completely remove the nozzle and let the trapped air escape (about 15 secs for my car). Once you no longer hear the escaping air, you can fuel up normally. Do not push the little flap open as this will not let all the air escape.
  • greydolphingreydolphin Member Posts: 3
    Just wanted to see if this was the same problem I'm having. 2003 Audi A-4 3.0 Quattro...if I come of the brake pedal quickly and go to accelerate, engine cuts to 1/2 power, parking brake light and stabalizer light come on. Ausi has replaced the coils, brake pedal switch and problem persists. Happened 2x's this morning before I limped into dealership.
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Member Posts: 334
    Sounds like transmission fluid leaking.
  • mtf2mtf2 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a new audi with the above spec's. I was driving up a windy mountain road, using the vehicle to it's full capacity. After reaching my destination I popped the hood to look at the engine. I found the exhaust manifold to be bright red, that molten metal color. I called the dealer they informed me that was normal for the turbo engines. I am asking for a second opinion.

    I also noticed that the outside temperature reading is sometimes wrong. When it is 70F outside the gauge reads 18F. I am wondering if the problems are connected?
    Can anyone shed some light.
    Thanks in advance.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    The engine does generate some extreme heat when driven hard so a glow like that would be expected. Turbos do run very hot. This is a primary reason to use good Audi-approved synthetic oil and be religious about those oil change intervals.

    The outside display is just a sensor around the grill of the car so I really doubt that is related. You should check it to be sure it's not set to centigrade somehow and then alert the dealer on your next service visit.

    JR
  • greydolphingreydolphin Member Posts: 3
    For those having accelerator problems when the brake warning light and stabilizer light illuminates, check the connections on the electrical control box next to the engine. The cover on my Audi A-4 was bad and allowed water/moisture to get into the box, corroding the connections. Dealership just called to tell me this and is replacing same under warranty. They previously replaced the brake pedal switch but found it not to be the problem this time. :) ">
  • mtf2mtf2 Member Posts: 2
    So the manifold will not break down over time?
    I'm sure it's not set to celsius, but I'll have it checked next service visit
    Thanks
  • jknutsonjknutson Member Posts: 3
    It's the wheel bearing. You should replace both rears, even if just the one goes bad. Expect to pay about $250-$350 a wheel.
  • jknutsonjknutson Member Posts: 3
    Unfortunately if you do not have ALL your records you will have a hard time proving your case. Also it has to show the oil was changed every 5,000 miles. Which is ridiculous, it should be changed every 3,000. Turbos run extremely hot and break oil down into---sludge! It's interesting how all of these auto manufactures are extending service intervals and winding up with law suits. Save yourselves the trouble people just change your oil every 3,000.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    The manifolds and other materials are made to handle the abuse. Some folks kick up their boost etc... with aftermarket stuff and they still hold up. If you ever saw the abuse these things take in testing and racing you would be amazed; so I'm sure that the occasional spirited run is more than OK.

    Changing the oil is the key to the ability of the turbo to survive under any circumstances.

    Regards,

    JR
  • badkrashbadkrash Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem with the warning lights. The engine check light has been on for about 3 weeks now. For the past one moth, the ABS + Brake warning lights also have been coming on (with three long beeps) but these go away occasionally only to reappear later on. I haven't had the time to get it checked yet. My car has been running smooth otherwise.

    If you have found the solution, I would be grateful if you shared it here. Thanks.

    Earlier once too, I had the check engine problem with the gas-cap error code even though the cap was tight. The emission check.guys checked the gas cap and found it faulty. I replaced it and within a few miles the warning disappeared.

    BKH
  • frustratedownefrustratedowne Member Posts: 1
    I am dealing with exactly the same issue on my 2002 A4. I have been denied reimbursement for the $2400 it costs to fix the issue. My Service Advisor informed me that the sludge problem can occurr at any time and is not indicative of poor maintenance - though that is what audi would like us to think. This is also stated on ConsumerReports.com in a article on the topic. I spoke with Customer Advocates today who were also unable to help. I plan to speak with a lawyer and initiate a class action suit as this has been going on way too long. I loved my car until a week ago and the way that I am being treated has completely changed my feelings about Audi. I will never purchase one again. I would advise anyone with the same issue to call as many people as possible within Audi and let them know that we're not going to let this happen to loyal trusting customers.
  • raffioneraffione Member Posts: 1
    1998 Audi A4 2.8 temperature gauge fluctuates past the center of the C/H gauge. It hasn't overheated and there aren't any leaks. Any ideas of what might cause the temperature to fluctuate and is it cause for alarm?
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    Does it only happen in stop-and-go driving and is the gauge otherwise steady, at or near the center, on highway runs?

    If this is the case then it's likely normal as in stop-and-go driving the electronic fans will kick in at the higher temperatures and bring the gauge down. Once it starts to creep up again due to the lack of movement and airflow over the radiator the cycle will repeat. On the highway the fans don't come into play as there is a nice steady airflow over the radiator to keep things at a constant temperature.

    If this is not the case then further investigation may be in order to check the thermostat and fan relays etc...
    JR
  • mikea4mikea4 Member Posts: 1
    HEY EVERYONE,I'M MIKE FROM THE U.K,MY PROBLEM IS I BOUGHT AN AUDI A4 3.0 CAB 2004 MODELFROM THE U.K AND I HAVE NOW MOVED TO ITALY FROM THE U.K,AND I NEED A STEERING CONVERSION FROM R.H.D TO L.H.D, I'M ALSO FINDING IT VERY HARD TO BUY A LEFT HAND SIDED DASHBOARD,STEERING RACK,PEDALS ETC.PLEASE GET BACK TO ME IF ANY ADVICE.DO YOU KNOW WHERE I CAN BUY IT?THANKS! MIKE
  • nephron1969nephron1969 Member Posts: 1
    I have an '04 A4 6spd quattro. First off, I can't complain about the car. It's been very good the first year. The dealer and their service department have really been quite good as well.

    Yesterday I was driving and had basically lost all function of the clutch. Managed to get it to the dealer limping along in first/second. I am now told that the clutch and flywheel are worn and "fried" (my term not theirs). I was told that one clutch is covered under warranty but otherwise this would be a $2000 repair.

    This is the sixth manual transmission I have had. I have never worn a clutch out in less than 90K miles. I like to think that I know how to drive one but now I am getting VERY worried. I don't think that I am doing anything wrong with the car and I noticed one other post of the exact same issue.

    Does anyone else have a similar experience? Is driving an Audi stick that different than any other car? I am really of the opinion that at 10K miles, the problem is more likely to have been caused by a defective part than operator error. In any case, it's getting fixed under warranty....and that's what those are for.

    I don't want to complain about my Audi because as I said above the dealer and car have been great so far.
  • jonetta913jonetta913 Member Posts: 2
    I just found out the problem last week. My car has a bad ABS modulator. This part was about $700 to replace. My car also has traction control which was controlled by this box. Hope this helps.
    Also- my sister has a 99 1.8 quattro and she is having the same problem. Maybe this is a common problem?? Im not sure...
  • aellisaellis Member Posts: 1
    We are having the same problems with our 2001 A4 1.8T. What is the status of yoiur class action lawsuit?
  • cccc1cccc1 Member Posts: 1
    can someone help with a quick question?

    i bought a certified A4 less than 12 months ago, and had to go in for some service issues.
    one issue is apparently covered under the warranty, but the other issue is not. i was told that due to the rust underneath the car, the flex pipe of the exhaust (andy possibly other parts) needs to be replaced. unfortunately, this isn't covered under the warranty.

    my question is, if the car was certified, shouldn't audi have replaced the worn out parts of the exhaust before claiming that it was "certified" and then selling it. i'm sure that 9 months (and less than 5000 miles) of driving didn't wear and tear the exhaust system to the point of making it necessary to be replaced. right?

    what are your thoughts?

    thanks guys.
  • ernestob7ernestob7 Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Audi A4 Quattro with a 2.8 engine has a starting problem when it has been driven and then has been allowed to set for about 2 hours. I'm barely able to get it started after cranking it until the battery is almost dead. Sometimes I have to wait several hours to allow the engine to cool. This does not happen all the time but often enough to be troublesome. The engine always starts just fine when the engine is cold. The dealer checked the starting system, inspected the intake for carbon buildup, and checked if it held fuel pressure after the engine was turned off. They said everything was within specs. To their credit they did not charge me anything since they found nothing wrong. Has anyone had this problem and if so what was the solution?
  • beech1beech1 Member Posts: 2
    My check engine light is on in my A4 2001 -1.8T. The diagnostics have said it was the catalytic converter- so it was replaced, then the oxygen sensors, which I replaced. It came right back on - now it says fuel too lean - came on at 45MPH - this is what the mechanic said the diagnostic tool said - Any suggestions on what to do to get it to stay off? I would like to sell it - it runs fine - but no one would want it with the light on!! I guess it didn't get enough gas when I accelerated at 45MPH - it kind of quit - I had to slow down and eventually gain speed. Thanks for any advice!
  • beech1beech1 Member Posts: 2
    When I try to turn on my high beams they don't come on unless I put on the left blinker. Also, gas gauge is whacky and now my speedometer isn't working - are these problems connected? any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Member Posts: 334
    Disconnect the battery, then reconnect. Sometimes "rebooting" will solve some of the "gremlins" you have described. Be sure you know your radio "safe code" before doing this, the radio will lock up after reconnecting and the code needs to be entered to turn it back on.
  • acacacac Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. Replace the coolant temperature sensor. I had a mechanic do it.

    ACAC
  • pitounepitoune Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 A4 at 91K bought used from an Audi dealership. Since I have owned the car I have had to replace the rear brakes twice, front brakes, rotors and just had the catalitic converter replaced. My check engine light is still on. I was told that the catalitic converter was the cause of the light coming on and that it needed to be reset. I unplugged my battery, waited aprox. 3 minutes then hooked the battery back up. The light went out but 2 days later is back on. Also the trip meter blinks and says "IN 1" for about 3 to 5 minutes and then will show the correct mileage. Half the lights on my dash do not light up either on my spedometer and tach. Has anyone else had similar problems or have any idea what the actual problem could be? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
  • travignetravigne Member Posts: 2
    I want to buy either an audi 2001 a4T or an audi 2001 2.8Q, can someone help me in making a decision in which car to buy because I never had an audi before, and the problems they may come along with it, thanks a lot.
  • rjorge3rjorge3 Member Posts: 144
    Hi gang. I leased a 2005 A4 1.8 This January. The car came with free scheduled maintenance, oil change, wipers, even brake pads etc. However I am a little bit concerned after finding out today that the dealer will only change the oil for free at the "scheduled interval" which is 5,000 miles (already done), and 15,000 miles!!!! My car has now 11k and I assumed that it was every 5,000 miles that they would change the oil.

    Have anyone heard of such a thing as a 10,000 miles interval for an oil change on an Audi. I would like to hear from you guys what have you done. Did you pay for the "unscheduled" oil change out of your pockets? Did you convinced the dealer to change the oil for free? Is it safe to wait till 15,000 for the next change? As a side note, I am planning to keep leasing when this experies in 33 months.

    Thanks in advance
  • ndlessfunndlessfun Member Posts: 3
    Hello Everyone! I am looking for information related to Audi A4 1.8T engine problems due to timing belt failures. About two months ago, while driving on the highway, my timing belt failed and engine seized. All said and done it was close to $6,000 in repairs!!!

    While my car was in the shop I heard rumors about a class action lawsuit regarding this type of 1.8T failure. Does anyone know where I can go to get some information on this issue to see whether I qualify for any type of reimbursement from Audi?

    Drowning in debt... :(

    Thanks for any help you may be able to give me on the issue!
  • kanthan75kanthan75 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same A4 1.8T, 2001 is still running good. Please share more information in details . so that i could able to help you
    regards
    kanthan
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    On the oil change I do an interim change at 5K miles with Audi approved Mobil 1 0W-40 oil. However, I just use a topsider oil extractor that sucks the oil out the dipstick opening so it's a simple process. Then the dealer full change with filter at every 10K. This gets fresh oil into the engine and I know there are several others who do the same with good results.

    On the belt, I would suggest you call Audi of America directly to full story. You don't state the mileage at which it happened and I think that plays a big role in any help they may offer you. I suggest you be polite but firm if the belt went at mileage below the recommended change interval and you may be able to get some assistance in that huge repair bill.

    JR
  • ndlessfunndlessfun Member Posts: 3
    I plan on calling Audi of America tomorrow on the timing belt failure. I also sent an email to their service department. I was able to find this article from the Boston Globe that was printed earlier this month regarding Audi reimbursement for timing belt failures:

    http://www.boston.com:80/business/articles/2005/07/17/class_action_can_be_engine_of_change-

    Hopefully I can get some type of compensation from Audi for the repairs. My timing belt failed at approximately 70,000 miles, right after a scheduled oil change. After reading up on Audi engine failures it sounds like my mechanic should have been more knowledgeable of the 1.8T and done a better job flushing out the engine.

    Thanks for your suggestions. If anyone else has been or is in a similar situation let me know if you have any new information.

    DD
  • domnf15domnf15 Member Posts: 2
    As far as I know, the Ultrasport also comes with a power front passenger seat, which is otherwise unavailable (I think). That is one way of making sure it is an Ultrasport.
  • domnf15domnf15 Member Posts: 2
    If the car was really certified by Audi, I think it comes with a warranty for at least 1 year (not sure of mileage limit). Aside from that, the exhaust system is covered for 7yrs/70k miles, so either way you shouldn't have to pay for it. If you bought it from some secondhand dealer (not Audi), then maybe they did some other kind of certification, and in that case their warranty terms may be different
  • veronikaveronika Member Posts: 2
    Hi all,

    I post a message a month ago and unfortunately didn't get any response, anyway..... my car is at the dealer since last Thursday and they still don't know what is the problem. They are assuming it has to do with the immobilizer system. My question is: does any of you had a problem with the immobilizer. I have A4 2003 at $33,000 miles. Here is the info that I found on the internet: Engine fails to start or starts briefly then dies, this is a very common fault with the key code immobilizer system there are many causes of this, the most common is the key itself or the connection from the inductive sensor around the ignition barrel to the immobilizer ECU, the wring from the sensor to the ECU should be removed the connections need to be cleaned with suitable circuit cleaner then relocate the wiring loosely down the steering column so that it is not under any tension at all, then reconnect the multi plugs to the ECU and inductive sensor then harness into place with a cable tie. This is a very common problem it is a built in design floor with the VAG immobilizer systems.
  • slimgreadyslimgready Member Posts: 1
    Hi - I have a 1996 Audi A4 Avant and I am having a problem with the radiator over heating. It seems that the temperature gauge in the dashboard says it is running at about 90 degrees which according to my manual is fine, however sometime when mobile but usually immediately when I have stopped the radiator seems to steam from the valve on the top and overspill where the engine coolant is so hot??? does anybody have any idea why it would do thi??? Please help
  • angryaudiownerangryaudiowner Member Posts: 4
    Yes, there was a class action suit. I believe they will now check the timing belt at 40,000 and 80,000 miles, and if it goes prior to that time they will fix it for free as long as you've had regular scheduled maintenance from an authorized Audi service dealer. BUT, they won't fix any damage from the belt after it blew if you didn't have it serviced appropriately. You can call their useless customer advocates to get more information (there's an 800 number that your service dealer should know). My experience, and those of other owners I know, has been that they will do everything in their power to blame you for whatever went wrong. So it may not work. But give it a shot. And a word to the wise... unload that thing. My Audi service manager told me they are "built to fall apart in five years" and he's not kidding.
  • angryaudiownerangryaudiowner Member Posts: 4
    Buy something else. Anything else. I loved my car and took perfect care of it, and it is costing me an arm and a leg to keep it on the road--it is 6 years old and I bought it brand new. When it's working, it is the best car in the world. But when if falls apart... it's brutal. My Audi service dealer told me they are built to fall apart after five years... so if I were you, I would not buy a used one. You don't know how it was treated, and repairs on these things cost a fortune.
  • angryaudiownerangryaudiowner Member Posts: 4
    Not sure if this will help you... but I had my 1999 Audi A4 in for maintenance every 6 months (and sometimes only drove it 1500 miles during that time period). It had small ($2,000) problems that were annoying but nothing major. Now suddenly they tell me it's completely rusted. First the tie rods (?) had to be replaced... which was going to take a while so they let me take it home. The next day the flex pipe fell out. They towed it back to the service dealership and said that it was rusted and I drove over something (I didn't) and knocked it out. So apparently they can't tell what the extent of the rust is since my car was in the station the DAY BEFORE the flex pipe fell off, and no one noticed that the rust was so bad. You can fight it with them, but the "customer advocate" told me they usually depend on the dealership to give them an accurate diagnosis of the car so if the dealership says it was OK when you bought it, you are out of luck.
  • seslsesl Member Posts: 1
    I had identical problem 6 months ago both brake light and accelerator pedal.
    Dealer corrected it after 2 visits. It never re-occurred
  • jknutsonjknutson Member Posts: 3
    Ok I have a 1998 A4 when I start the car it idles perfectly, however when I take off and come to a stop the idle starts to come down a little (like it should) and then jumps back up to like 2000 RPM it then bounces inbetween 2000 and like 2500 RPM while I am stopped. I then take off just fine. After about 3 minutes of driving it is fine when I come to a stop and idles perfectly. This only occurs after a cold start. Once the car is warmed up it does not happen. It is a manual and I recently changed the air filter to a K&N, not sure if that matters but I thought I would mention it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • mogila1mogila1 Member Posts: 1
    HI all. my car is making a whisling noise sounds like it has turbo when accelerating. At cruising speeds this noise is gone. It coming from the passenger front side somewhere from behind the wheel. Also this whistling noise could be sounding like the belt is rubbing on something. Can you please suggest what it could be. Car has 145000km on it and its tiptronic tranny. Could this sound be the T-belt?
    thanx alot for all your input.
  • russb324russb324 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 A4 1.8 Avant that I purchased in October 2004. I have put on about 5,000 miles, predominately highway driving. Recently, I noticed pulsing when braking. I brought the car in for the 5000 service and was told that the rotors (front and back) were rusted and warped. Audi asserts that it will not cover rust under the warranty. It seems to me that 5,000 miles and 9 months of use should not result in warped rotors. Hard to imagine that any car could be rendered effectively inoperable in the matter of months. Does anyone have experience with this problem and/or with getting Audi USA to honor the warranty?
  • a4owner512a4owner512 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Audi A4, and I am on my third clutch. I made it over 60k miles on the first clutch, but only about 30k on the second one. Now my third clutch is showing signs of wear after only a few 1000 miles. Sometimes when I shift, there is a jerky feeling, which makes me wonder whether there is something about the transmission that is wearing out the clutch prematurely.

    This is also not my first car with a manual transmission, but it is definitely the first one on which I had to replace the clutch this early and often.

    This message probably doesn't help you find a solution, but at least you know there is someone else who is not completely satisfied with his Audi clutch.
  • fireflyfirefly Member Posts: 2
    Hi All

    I have a 1997 A4 1.9TDi with 275,000 on th the clock.The car is going the best but there is a problem with acceleration. When there is any kind of loading on the engine ie going up hill on motor way or driving on wet roads the acceleration cuts out at 70mile/hour. (60miles in fourth gear) the throttle is still there and the rev counter still goes up but there is no power it feels like the turbo just cuts out.Once the power goes the only way to get it back is to switch the engine of and restart. Full power is restored then immediately. Like i say its seems to happen when the engine is under extra loads and only occurs in 4th and fifth gear . Does anyone know what is causing this?What can i do to rule out the electronic throttle as i have been told is a possible cause.?
  • audi_a4audi_a4 Member Posts: 1
    I have an Audi A4 convertible and I have bought Sat Nav, a TV Tuner and 6 disk DVD changer. I need help with connecting it all together.
    Does anyone know some in the UK that could help, or is there anyone on here in the UK local to me (I am down in Devon) that may be technically minded to assist me.

    Thanks

    Graham
  • drewarddreward Member Posts: 13
    When using the SD card I discovered that certain of my MP3 files would not play after some investigation I found that the file name length was the controlling factor and after shortening the names they showed up in the list. After referring to the manual I noticed that the file name length is limited to 64 characters I have not determined whether this includes the .mp3 or not. I have noticed several people noting that some files play and some don't perhaps they need to check the file name length. :lemon:
  • gunter1gunter1 Member Posts: 5
    Hi, have you found out what the problem was? Were you able to get it repaired?

    I just bought a brand new 2006 A4 Avant Quattro and have been experiencing the same problems in just 2nd and now 3rd month of driving it. First time, when the mechanic at the Audi dealership denied reset 'something' after his comuter show that there was 'something' faulty in the transmission. They don't even give any straight answer and he basically denied experiencing the problem while test driving my car - quite interesting since I was able to point the noisy shifting everytime the car was slowing down or coming to a stop. Then, he simply said that indeed the shifting down was a bit hard. A bit! I would rather say it was harsh a big deal! A couple of weeks since that time, the problem is starting to reappear and is getting really bad.
    There are two people in the household who drive this car, but our driving habits are very similar, and there is no way this car will be driving by one person only.

    Any suggestions on how to fix this problem - because it appears that the mechanics at the dealership have no clue.
  • jboomjboom Member Posts: 5
    I have a 98 audi a4 2.8 quattro and im looking to put rims on it, the only thing im not sure is what size to get. I like 18's, can anyone help me out? has anyone had any problems with 18's, are 17's better? any feedback would be great, thanks.
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