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Comments
When it gets warmer, I'll take a look at the cabin filter, because the squeaking noise from heater fan does seem to come and go. thanks again.
I don't know if the HL has the same part, so I don't want to be an alarmist, but I thought I'd share the link.
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/02/16/business/16lexus.html
(Note that you have to register on the NY Times site in order to read the article.)
I have a 2001 V6 4WD Highlander 78500 miles. I only have this Intermittent start up problem at summer time (very hot day over 110).Do you find the way to resolved this issue? I took it to dealer , but they can not find anything wrong!
Bob
I have a 2001 V6 4WD Highlander 78500 miles. I only have this Intermittent start up problem at summer time (very hot day over 110).Do you find the way to resolved this issue? I took it to dealer , but they can not find anything wrong!
Bob
Any ideas?
Been having an issue with braking (see post 2370).
Finally installed new brake rotors and pads. Wow - what a difference. All problems have gone away. I discovered 2 new issues.
1) One of the brake pad anti rattle clips (not anti squeal shims) was broken and had almost worked it's way out of the groove, allowing one end the pad to be "loose" in the housing. This probably contributed to the rattle noise I used to hear going over the lane divider bumps. I replaced them all and now my pads dont rattle anymore.
2) My right front wheel bearing seems a little loose. I noticed on the dial indicator I was using to check rotor run-out, that I could "rock" the rotor (it was bolted down using the lug nuts). The play at the outside diameter was about 0.005". The service manual says the acceptable axial play at the center of the hub, just outside of the large axle nut should be less than 0.002". I only found this information after I had finished putting the wheel back on.
I think at the point where the dial indicator was located (at the OD of the rotor) a .002" movement at the bearing would be magnified (using simple proportional scaling)
My question to anyone knowledgeable about wheel bearings. Can I tighten the center nut on the axle to take out some of the play (it says to tighten to 220 ft-lbs). The service manual says to replace the bearing.
Has anyone had any problems with their FRONT wheel bearings?.
thanks
As you have found it resets when refilling. I agree that this is a strange way of doing things.
I see a lot of 4WD/AWD front bearings go bad. They are not adjustable (current vehicles) and it's usually the right (curb) side that goes first. This is due to the road surface is more rough along that side than the left causing bearing failure...not to mention the "curb".
The value you have for the wheel bearing is a factory pre-load setting. The bearing is a "sealed" bearing and should be replaced if the axial play exceeds the recommended value.
In other words, the axle shaft nut CANNOT be tightened to remove any bearing play.
Hope this helped.
Being paranoid as I am, I re checked the right side bearings last night.
Sure enough, I could "feel" a little rocking with the wheel jacked up off the ground.
However, when I put a dial indicator on the hub, I could not measure any movement (book says limit is 0.002"). I couldn't get the hub to move axially, and even when I "rocked" the rotor (with it bolted to the hub) the play at the point of measurement was imperceptible.
I did confirm about 0.005" rock at the OD of the rotor.
Look like it's OK.
Thanks
I am not even sure whether to take the car to a dealer to evaluate or an independent mechanic for a objective evaluation.
Any comments or suggentions greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Two things will cause your brake pedal to go to the floor;
1)An open in a brake line resulting in loss of brake fluid.
2)A malfunctioning master cylinder.
Check the fluid level in your master cylinder and this will help you in determining where the fault might be.
In either case, I would NOT drive your HL. Contact your dealer and have them arrange a towing company to come pick it up.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I'd still look at the master cylinder. The thing is that a wearing/worn master cylinder can fail at one point, then be fine at another. What should be done is to pull the master cylinder away from the power booster unit and inspect to see if there is any evidence of brake fluid at the back seals/o-rings. This can be done without removing the brake lines.
Good luck.
The anti-lock system has the ability, in failed mode, to fully release the brake pressure at all or any individual wheel.
Highlander -
Hesitation problem
Gas milage 18/25
Seats are more comfortable
Accord -
better gas milage 21/30
cost is a little cheaper
nice ride/nice accerlation
I am really torn, any input would be greatly appreciated.
On the other hand, I traded an 03 EX-V6 Accord for an 04 V6 HL Limited and have never looked back. Yes, the gas mileage is much worse, but that's about the only drawback. I haven't experienced the hesitation problem on the Highlander, by the way.
My perception is that the HL is put together a bit better and uses higher-quality materials than the Accord, but that's just an individual opinion.
One caveat: If you don't get the V6 HL, you might not be as satisfied with the acceleration as compared to the V6 Accord.
The manual does state that you need about an hour of continuous driving above a certain speed (can't remember exactly what speed and I don't have the manual handy) to properly reset the system.
When mine came on (because the tire pressure was actually low), I waited to reset it until I needed to take an hour's drive on the freeway.
You might want to try a few more things yourself (following the manual) before downloading stuff from the Internet, etc.
Looks like you are right about it being a Monday car after saki.
My solace is that I purchased a 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor. Consumer Reports just ranked the Endeavor the most reliable SUV, with Highlander finishing third. The Endeavor's 1st year reliability has been outstanding according to Consumer Reports.
We take the Endeavor back and forth from Phila., PA to NH a round trip of 800 miles and love it. The gas mileage is much better then we ever got with our Highlander and the Infinity sound system puts the JBL to shame. I hook up my iPod and am in heaven.
I had a similar problem with the brakes on my last car, and I didn't feel better until I traded it in.
Best of luck with your new car!
I had the same problem, see the fix in msg #2310.
In addition, I normalized the moon roof after reading some postings on the subject. It works beautifully (We always thought it's a design flaw to have to guess whether the moon roof is closed completely).
Love this forum!!!
Drove an 05 V6 Accord with 5 speed auto today and it really puts toyota to shame—in fact, absolutely no comparison. Imagine this--it actually accelerates WHEN you push the accelerator, not a few seconds later. Always downshifts smoothly and immediately to the right gear on demand also.
If toyota really can't figure out how to fix their problem, they need to fire their management and just send their engineers out to copy Honda's far superior drive by wire/5 speed auto transmission.
If you’re considering toyota vs Honda, Honda wins every time—by two or three seconds!
Owners of the previous generation Accord that had their transmission replaced will disagree with you. Honda extended the tranny warranty for affected vehicles to 7yr/100K miles. That should tell you something.
I assumed that (like in most cars) I could turn on these lights voluntarily by twisting the dashboard illumination stem all the way counter-clockwise until it hit the detent. However, that action does absolutely nothing.
Is my HL broken - should the interior lights have come on when I did this? If not, how do I turn them on?
One other question - if I leave an interior light on, or leave a door ajar, will the lights shut off automatically at some point or will they run until the battery is dead?