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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jim70jim70 Member Posts: 27
    Okay, I have been test driving the Highlanders more and I noticed something. The cars I have driven are all the V6, but there is something I noticed that applies to the AWD and not the FWD model. If I slow way down to just a few MPH and take my foot off the gas pedal and am coasting, like going over a speed bump, when I reapply the accelerator the car does indeed respond immediately, but there is a slight jerk or kick as the transmission seems to catch hold of the wheels and begin to accelerate. This only happens at very slow speed, only when I have taken my foot off of the accelerator entirely, and only on the AWD.

    Is this a normal characteristic of a AWD drive car? It is not dangerous or even really bothersome, but definitely different than other cars I have driven. And I don't remember noticing it with the Pilot, but as I understand it the Pilot runs FWD most of the time. I just did not know if this was normal for AWD Highlanders, or AWD cars in general. I don't have much experience with AWD drive cars.

    Thanks in advance for any info.
  • tourguidetourguide Member Posts: 190
    I've noticed this same thing in my 05 too. I don't think there is anything wrong, I think it is just a querk of the Toyota AWD drivetrain. Nothing to worry about.
  • highlhighl Member Posts: 32
    Hi,
    I recently noticed a small superficial hole in windshield of my HL. I think it must have been due to some splinters flying off the road. I had to drive on roads which was under construction for a week. Though the hole can not be spotted easily but one can feel it during windshield cleaning. Is there any way i can get rid of it?

    TIA
    P
  • desertguydesertguy Member Posts: 730
    Go to your auto parts store and get a windshield repair kit. They are around $10 and I have used them two different times and they work great. It is the same method the pros use only on a smaller scale. Just follow the directions.
  • junepugjunepug Member Posts: 161
    How about the folks who have a short driveway and insist on getting the mail from the box while sitting in a running vehicle. I have always parked my car in the garage and walked to the mailbox. If everyone would do this, think of the gasoline we would save.
  • spencer327spencer327 Member Posts: 106
    It should be noted that DRLs are only on in the headlamps. In most states you must still turn on your lights when rainy. Unless you have auto headlamps assuming your lights including taillamps are on at dusk is wrong , you have no taillamps only brake lights.
    Also any competent electrical tech can eliminate DRLs, in some cases itis as easy as removing a relay.The fact that people think their lights are on because they have DRLs is probably worse than not having DRLs.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    But I had one hell of a time figuring out how to disable the DRLs on the 2000 GS300. Circuitry intermeshed with too many other functions.
  • gkggkg Member Posts: 5
    We finally had some rain in Ohio for the first time since I bought my 05 Highlander. I notice now that every time I open any of the 4 doors after a heavy rain, there is a good 1/3 cup of water that flows to my driveway. Normally, I would just have called this water runoff, but the water seems to be coming from the little holes which are IN the door (hole between the layers of sheet metal that are in the door). Is this expected or is there a flaw with the weather-stripping? I guess, I am curious about what would happen if the car were parked for a long time in heavy rains or if a particular door were not opened..would the water just build up inside the door?

    Also, I have spotted a problem with thin weather-stripping on the trunk, just above the trunk latch. Basically, a good half inch of it has come loose from the body. Before I take it to the dealer, does anyone know what the repair entails? Fixing, Replacement?
  • havokhavok Member Posts: 18
    I have the standard 2004 non-JBL CD/Radio. Reception is excellent as it pulls down radio signals my Alpine 9833 cannot get in my Accord!
  • revinjenrevinjen Member Posts: 2
    Hi all. I recently bought a new 05' and i've noticed that when you drive up the mountains, the speed decreases. Im not sure if that's normal or not. i even put my overdrive on too with some heavy pressure on the accelerator, is this good for my engine? speaking of overdrive. I also noticed that the manual mentioned that one should turned on their overdrive at all times to conserve fuel. I'm used to driving cars that doesn't need to use overdrive except when going uphill. I was wondering if anyone knows if it is neccessary to drive with the overdrive button on everytime and if it is really safe to drive on heavy traffic.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Overdrive should ALWAYS be OFF when towing heavier loads and/or driving up a steep or long incline.

    Heavy pressure on the accelerator will ALWAYS take you out of O/D.

    O/D is designed to have the engine turn very low RPMs, low torque range, to reduce the frictional and pumping losses and thereby increase fuel economy. You can damage your transmission by remaining in O/D during long periods wherein the engine is producing reasonably high levels of torque.
  • highlhighl Member Posts: 32
    Thank you. I will try that.
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    "I was wondering if anyone knows if it is neccessary to drive with the overdrive button on everytime and if it is really safe to drive on heavy traffic."

    Overdrive is ON by default - when you push the button and the dash light comes on, you have turned OD OFF.
  • loucapriloucapri Member Posts: 214
    Agreed with the others

    If you don't tow, just leave it 'ON'
    If your car has trouble going up hill (feel like no power) you're probably right that your car has no (or not enough) power, that's normal. Compare yourself running on a level track to a incline hill. You need to run harder in order to keep yourself going.

    Simpily step on the gas harder (your car will downshift it to the lower gear) and the OD will be disable (for a while) until your car is able to maintain the proper speed. So, you should leave it 'ON' in general (just like the manual says)
  • revinjenrevinjen Member Posts: 2
    thank you all for your help. this has been really helpful.
  • spencer327spencer327 Member Posts: 106
    Disabling DRLs on 2004 HL is as easy as disconnecting one wire. This removes the series connection of the headlamps. All other functions remain the same.
  • jennys90402jennys90402 Member Posts: 1
    I just had to write you because I have had all the same problems as you. I have had leather splitting which the dealership felt wasn't their responsibility. I have had a glovebox rattle that is driving me nuts and I previously owned two Accords, which I never had one problem with.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    The HL glovebox rattle problem was a very prevalent problem with HLs as there was much discussion relating to it on this board back in the '01-'02 timeframe; it's a known problem and there's a TSB for this, so the dealer should be able to fix it under warranty (or you can do what they do and install self-adhesive felt pads to either side of the glovebox door opening which should prevent the glovebox door from rattling). (Haven't heard anything about it in recent years so I had assumed it had been fixed on more recent model year HLs.)

    (It's just a coincidence that both you and tommyg12 owned two Accords and didn't have any significant problems with them, then purchased HLs that had significant problems.)

    I think this is a great forum to post both positive experiences with the HL as well as hear from the few of us who have had significant problems with the HL -- both perspectives give us the opportunity to more accurately evaluate the HL and possibly share solutions to the problems.

    (Boy, will tommyg12 be surprised to receive a reply to his post from 2 years ago!)
  • mrhowlandmrhowland Member Posts: 1
    I just test drove an 2005 limited with the JBL/6cd changer with diversity antenna. To check sound we turned on a local classical station at 90.7 FM. Very poor reception and very poor sound as a result. We also test drove a 2006 hybrid which had no such apparent reception problem. So from the posts this seems to be a frequent issue, but not universal. Anyone had any luck with the dealership actually identifying the problem and fixing it satisfactorly? Nice to advertise a premium JBL seterio system and have it fail in basic fm reception. -mrhowland
  • desertguydesertguy Member Posts: 730
    My JBL has worked perfectly from day one on my '04. The reception is as good as any I have had. There must be defect or some kind in the test vehicle you drove.
  • rav4urav4u Member Posts: 21
    The RAV4 has the radio reception defect. The only fix I saw was at ravworld.com where someone rerouted the antennae to the roof. I think they said it had something to do with interference from the engine and the way the antennae is set up on the side. Someone still had the problem despite changing to an aftermarket stereo.
  • rochestermnrochestermn Member Posts: 1
    When I get my Highlander Limited AWD up above 40mph and lower the second row windows there is an immediate wind tunnel effect with a rise in air pressure and humming noise that actually hurts the ears. The local dealer didn't believe it until a mechanic took it for a test drive and found out for himself. He took a new Limited off the lot and drove it and it did the same thing. He called the Toyota HQ in California and they had no suggestions. We called Toyota HQ in California and complained and were given a case number. They are looking into and will call us. Maybe. This is a major problem if you have passengers in the second row seats who want to let in a little fresh air and you keep the front windows closed. Not good.
  • mdchachimdchachi Member Posts: 275
    I've also noticed the problem. Crack one of the front windows open enough until the problem goes away or direct more fresh air from the air vents to the back seat so they won't need to open their windows. Not much else you can do.
  • rblelandrbleland Member Posts: 312
    This is not a new problem. All SUVs do it to some extent or another. Jeeps are bad for it. Do as suggested above and learn to live with it. It is NOT particular to Toyotas.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    This is a direct result of the fact that most cars are today very well sealed and insulated. My 68 & 72 Ford station wagons would do that unless I lowered the back, tailgate, window slightly.
  • doglover7doglover7 Member Posts: 12
    I think it's normal. I get the same thing after I wash mine. Open the rear doors and a stream of water flows out of the rearmost drain hole in the bottom of the door. That what the drain holes are for. However, it is a little strange that the water drains only when I open the door. Guess driving the vehicle would do the same thing.
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    I've never had that happen after a wash or a rain on our '01. (or any other car, for that matter) Something is blocking those drain holes until the door is opened. I'm guessing it must be the weather stripping. As you all have described the situation, if you have enough rain and/or washes and don't ever open the rear doors, they would fill with water to the point of wetting (and ruining) the door panels? That can't be right, can it?

    Did they use a thicker weatherstip on later models without changing the location of the drain holes? Careful and close inspection should verify whether or not this is the cause. I'm not in a rust belt state so I'd likely drill some new drain holes where they wouldn't be blocked.

    Could this be a problem caused by a redesign of the door/weatherstrip after the recall to fix the child-proof lock levers hitting when the doors were shut hard?

    Phil
  • nctoyotanctoyota Member Posts: 3
    I've had the oil changed. Now, how do I turn off the maintenance required light?
  • nctoyotanctoyota Member Posts: 3
    Thanks. That did the trick.
  • blewdogblewdog Member Posts: 3
    I just picked up my new 2006 HH in Dallas last weekend and drove it back to the bay area. The car is fantastic all round but during the long drive back I experienced two annoying rattles in the car. The first, and most annoying, is coming from the area right by the driver side seatbelt height adjuster by the driver's left ear. It is a frequent and "fast" rattling sound that is not so loud but it being right next to my ear drives me nuts. The other rattle seems to be coming from the roof from the passenger side second or third row area. I do have the rear spoiler so I might try giving a wing adjustment a try. Does anybody else have any suggestions on isolating/fixing these two rattles?
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    I believe you said earlier that you were running with somewhere around 40 psi in the tires. First, try lowering that to 35..makes a big difference in the ride quality, (read much less harsh) which just may stop the rattles....and then again, it may need a trip to the local dealer

    Jeff
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    I assume you are wearing your seatbelt in this case. But I get rattles from the unbuckeled ones -- most often front passenger -- caused by the metal insert bumping up against the side of the car. It's not easy to adjust the position of the thing unless there's a rear-seat passenger.
  • mrwbmrwb Member Posts: 1
    While changing the brakes on my Highlander I also checked the condition of
    the air filter. The next day the VSC and Engine check light came on. After
    checking this forum I found the problem which was one of the vacuum lines
    on the air box came off and also found a fix on the Highlander FAQ to reset
    the Engine check light. I can not believe how poorly engineered the vacuum
    connector is on the air cleaner. Thanks for the help.
  • miked12miked12 Member Posts: 4
    Help! I'm desperate. Have a '02 Highlander, Ltd. with the garage door opener on the driver's side. Started coming down about a year and a half ago. Now are both at the point where the slightest bump causes them to drop down. Dealer will do nothing. Have contacted salvage yards nationally via the internet. No luck. Does anybody have any ideas? New one with the opener lists at $700+.

    Also, has anybody had any experience with mirror extenders for towing? Looking for something solid. Any help would be appreciated.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Velcro.........
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    My driver's visor started doing that almost immediately when new (2001), and the dealer replaced the whole thing under warrantee. Yours should, too, as long as you first brought the issue up while the vehicle was still under the bumper to bumper warrantee.
  • toyotabotoyotabo Member Posts: 13
    You know if you can't get it covered by warranty. try velcro, you won't see it when visor is up. that would work
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    You could try wraping a small piece of tape, maybe cloth tape... same or similar color to sunvisor, around the inboard piece where it clips to the holder in the roof. I'm not explaining this very well, but this is the small piece of plastic about the diamiter of a pencil, and only an inch or so long, near the center mirror. This would give the visor some more friction, to stay in place. Worth a try?
  • miked12miked12 Member Posts: 4
    Unfortunately, we obliterated the 36K in about 18 months and, of course, the problem arose shortly after that.
  • miked12miked12 Member Posts: 4
    That's the first thing we tried. Worked for about a week, but apparently the heat build-up eventually breaks down the adhesive, and now we've got a gooey mess. But thanks for the input.
  • miked12miked12 Member Posts: 4
    You explained it just fine and it's certainly worth a try. At this point, I would try a stick of dynamite, if I thought it would do any good. My wife is so frustrated that she has already informed me that this is our last Toyota. Thanks for the response.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    It should be really easy to replace the velcro's adhesive with a dab of epoxy.
  • dawneedawnee Member Posts: 59
    Just bought '03 HL and have seen several posts about normalization of sunroof. Can someone tell me because haven't had time to find it in the book, how we know if this was done by previous owner? When I press button to open sunroof, the roof opens completely with just one touch and closes the same way so is it already normalized? :confuse:

    I had a sunroof on previous Explorer and it was a pain to be sure the thing was completely shut so I would like to take care of this right away.

    Thanks
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    The "normalization" procedure applies to 2004 and later models. Your 2003 doesn't need it, as it is appaently "built in to the car" at the factory. Don't know why they made this change with the 2004 models, but you should be good to go as is. I ought to know, as I have a 2003 and a 2005!

    Congrats on yourpurchase, and stay in touch these boards are a lot of help and fun as well.
  • dawneedawnee Member Posts: 59
    These boards have been a great source of info. Any other info you can share about the 2003 would be more appreciated. Any problems or quirks. We bought ours used with 46,200 miles and the previous owner said they owned 2 HL's as well. Also said majority of miles were highway. Considered ext warr that was offered but was advised probably not worth the money since HL's are pretty reliable. So I was curious with 2 HL's what your opinion was about problems.

    And thanks for the sunroof info. Only thing ours doesn't have that I would like is heated seats but got everything else we wanted so can't complain.
  • rugby65rugby65 Member Posts: 81
    Have you noticed any wind noise at the driver's side door? I have a 2003 and I have to bump the window switch a little so the window will go down from full close to prevent wind noise.
    That and the steering are the two things I don't like about mine but over all it's been a great vechile for 28000 miles.....
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    I had that problem on my 2003, which I bought new , and the dealer fixed it..there was a gap at the molding where the door meets the widow, at elbow height. When i would bump the window down a quarter of an inch, it would close the gap...I don't know how they fixeed it, but they did. I THINK there is a TSB on it now....
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    only problem I had with the 03 was a slight wind noise at drivers door..see post above for details.
  • dawneedawnee Member Posts: 59
    Sorry, what does "TSB" stand for?
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