Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
:confuse:
thanks
thanks
Anyone know whats wrong with it?
I found the warranty online and then my dealer matched the price. I didn't buy the extended warranty until I had about 30,000 miles on the car and was sure I'd be keeping it.
Phil
You may wish to send me an e-mail so we can keep each other informed of the development.
J
What did you do to fix the rear seat clicking noises? I have a 2001 and I haven't been able to determine where the noises are coming from and they're quite irritating...
I hope you get this message, as I see your original post was 4 years ago...
Thank you
$500 under warranty). Now the siren noise comes down a bit, but still there. May be the passenger side should also fixed. Very upset for such noise to my new car. I should do more test drive upon buying
My last oil change was done by an independent drive-in place. They still recommend 3,000 but that's just an attempt to drum up business. Since they charge more than the dealer and didn't do everything they said they did (like check tire pressure), I'm going to plan ahead a bit better next time and have the dealer do it.
With a manual shift transaxle the driver can always depress the clutch pedal if a downshift results in too much engine compression braking for roadbed conditions. But with an automatic the only option is to slip the gear shift into neutral and then ...wait... for the transaxle to follow.
Some of the newer owners manuals spell out the fact that NO engine compression braking will be available absent the driver manually downshifting the automatic transaxle and not even then unless the cruise control is off.
I just love it when the Dealership often reports back to me that they heard it to but that is just "normal" for that vehicle..................ROFLOL
Question on the rear wiper. I had the dealer replace all blades last year as part of regular service and was never really happy with the quality - streaky and squeaky. I just replaced the front driver / passenger with Bosch Excel, and they work great - but I'm stuck on the rear. Can the whole blade body be replaced like the front, or is it just an insert like the older cars I used to have. Is there any way to pull the rear wiper more than an inch from the glass? (I can't imagine why it was designed that way) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Mike
http://free-zg.t-com.hr/AlanV/pdf/RearWiperRubber.pdf
There is a plastic cap you remove in order to raise the blade higher.
Anyone know whats wrong with it?
Please HELP!!!
:confuse:
Did you ever find the cause of the driveline vibration that you were getting between 1800 and 2000 RPM? I am also getting it but I have no confidence that if I tell the dealer that they will even acknowledge it.
I had an appt with a Toyota field rep for next week, but I have to travel unexpectedly for business. My appt will be early Feb.
I would say keep getting the word out on the problem. There is no reason a $31K Toyota should vibrate through the steering wheel. Not only is it bothersome as these vehicals are of the "highest" quality, but vibration kills or slowly breaks down electrical components. My entire steering column vibrates. What will that do long term to all the components in that steering column?
Gary
BTW, I don't know if I asked you this before but is your's slow to warm up as indicated by the temp guage?
I was reading your issue with your 07 Highlander. I have the exact same problem with mine. It is awful - I have a 2002 highlander and it drives better than my 07. I have taken it into Toyota 4 times now, they replaced the exhaust system (which did not stop the vibration) and only 1 out of 5 mechanics said they could feel the vibration. I am going up the ranks until this gets resolved. As you said a vehicle that costs this much should not vibrate at all. Mine is at the 2000 RPM mark also. I have a District Service Representative that is supposed to call me by Monday or Tuesday. Have you had any luck on yours - if so please tell me what you have found out so I can get mine fixed. I told Toyota I don't even want the vehicle. That's how bothersome it is. Thanks for any feedback you can give.
Believe it or not, this may be a transmission issue. A problem with one of the shift modulators will cause what is called a 'shudder'. This shudder is almost always felt by the driver through the steering column/steering wheel and will often viberate enough to cause keys in the ignition to jingle. Often the diagnosis can be made by manipulating the speeds and RPM's to cause the transmission to shift in and out of specific gears and feeling for the shudder. Shudders are usually more noticable when the transmission is hot. The shudder could also be the overdrive shift modulator and that can be diagnosed by disengaging the overdrive and checking for shudder in the method mentioned above.
I don't know if this is your problem or if this helps, but I thought I would mention it. I don't have alot of experience working on Toyota's, but a good bit on other products from Japan.
Brent
Brent
Does anyone know if the motor mounts on the Highlanders are actively controlled? I seem to remember reading somewhere that when they put the 3.3L and 5-sp into it in 2004, they went to active mounts but I may be wrong. If they are, could they be malfunctioning?
The strange thing is that it is not consistent. Sometimes it is hardly noticable. That's why I wonder if it could be:
1. Injectors malfucntioning
2. Intermittent bad sensor causing incorrect fuel mixture and/or ignition timing?
3. Malfunctioning VVT-i
4. Spark problem due to bad coil, wire, etc.
To go along with this, the idle is often rough and boomy sounding - don't know if there is any relation.
With several of us having this problem, there is something generic going on.
Is is possible that when they tweaked the engine/tranny control software to get rid of the tranny hesitation that this problems was introduced as an unintended side effect?
Let's keep in touch. I am pressing Toyota for acknowledgement. I want them to say, yes, I see the problem, instead of the vehicle is performing as designed.
Also, does anyone know of one of these performance hand held's that allow you to change the shiftpoints of the transmission. I see them all for US trucks and some rice rockets. I would love to change the RPM points of when this tranny shifts into higher gears. To me, it's shifting up to 5th gear way, way to early.
Gary
I'm sure that Toyota will step up and get tot he bottom of this. Please post the ultimate resolution - my money is stil on tranny/drivetrain.
Brent
I agree about the shift points. For me, even though I can feel a slight vibration at 2K in any gear, the most noticable is on the highway in 5th gear where 2K corresponds to about 60 MPH. It does feel somewhat like the engine is laboring right a that point, contributing to the vibration. I wonder if with the 5 speed, is it possible that 5th gear drops the RPM's lower than overdrive did with the 4 speed at a given speed? If so, this might be making the problem worse.
Just a thought.
Where are you located? I live near Raleigh, NC. I have contacted Toyota Corporation - this seems to be the best bet. They are working on setting up an appointment for me with a factory representative. The customer service person I spoke with said she did not feel that the district service representative was the answer - That a factory representative would be. This made me think they have had many complaints. Please contact Toyota Corporation if you haven't at 1-800-331-4331. We need to get as many cases documented as possible to get them to fix this.