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Comments
All I'm saying is, on the Ford Escape Hybrid forum, there are no complaints, and plenty here.
Were I to purchase another Ford my expectations of quality would be nil as would be my expectations of responsiveness to the quality problem.
I'm beginning to wonder if Toyota is getting a slight case of GM fever, taking over the world like they have. It would be a shame....
Since the original post, I have discovered the following: I had Sirius radio installed by the dealer after I took delivery. The antenna is mounted high up on the glass and the antenna cable is run under the trim and down behind the dash to the back of the head unit (nav) to the Sirius "brain." In removing part of the dash for this cable run, the technician most likely didn't re-attach the cable. I therefore am chalking this up to a technician's mistake rather than Toyota quality.
I've already made the decision to drive this vehicle 10 years and would buy again tomorrow. You won't be disappointed should you decide to buy.
Is this a known issue or a design feature?
I've done timing belts before but are there any specific issues or difficulties with the V6 Toyota that I should know about? Scale of difficulty? Brute strength required?
I plan on doing the water pump and the seals while I'm in there as this is a long-term keeper.
Thanks all!
If you get the satisfaction of standing back and proudly smiling after successfully completing a difficult job like that, go for it. If you want to absolutely avoid the searing aggravation of finding the anti-freeze leak at the mall parking lot, having it towed to the dealership/mechanic, and paying for all over again...hhmmm.
Warranty on parts and labor vs doing it your self GOOD LUCK
Thanks.......
And the issue of replacing the water pump is nothing more than an "old wives tale". Long ago water pumps often failed due to failure of the internal seal protecting the "nose" bearing, the ONLY bearing, from failure due to coolant getting into it. To help prevent that all water pumps have a "weep" hole/opening so the small amounts of coolant getting past the seal can simply drain away onto the street. Basically the improvement in those seals over the years has resulted in such a low water pump failure rate that replacing them as a preventative maintainance measure is a waste.
See messege # 4319 and a few meseges afterward for my comments when I bought my 2004 Highlander V6, 3.3L.
See messege # 4330 for my comments about changing the timing belt. It is not the hardest job I ever did, but it is a full day of hard work. If you are less experienced, it may take you two days.
Skill Level Required = High
Water Pump = Yes replace, even though the water pump seemed fine, mine had signs of deterioration on the pully. The pully is pressed on as part of the pump assembly. All pullys must be smooth, brite and clean.
I put in a timing belt, water pump, alternator belt and power steering belt. That was months ago and no sign of any leak, runs perfect.
Pulley bearing failure, YES, many times.
The cogged sprockets are on the inside of the belt and are on each camshaft and the crankshaft. The SMOOTH PULLYS are on the outside of the belt and include the idler pullys, the tensioner pully and the water pump pully. They must all have a smooth, clean, bright finish. My water pump pully was showing the first signs of wear and deterioration, getting noticably dull, Compare it to the new one, and you will see what a big difference there is. I could see many small pit marks with a magnifiying glass and I could see "wear patterns" or "wear markings" begining to form on the surface of the SMOOTH PULLY. You need all the pullys to be in good shape, because you need this job to last a long time, you will not want to be doing it again anytime soon!
You will need a few special tools, and you will be working in some very tight spaces, so a 1/4" or 3/8" compact sized air ratchet will prove VERY helpful. You will need a 10 mm hex bit, 3/8" drive to unscrew the Tensioner pivot bolt. This is a common size and is used to remove head bolts on some engines. You will need a harmonic balancer puller to pull off the Harmonic Balancer, it will have to have metric bolts. You will need a jug of Toyota Red Coolant and mix it 50% with distilled water, to replace what you loose when you pull the water pump off. You can minumize your coolant loss if you put a pan under the engine just before you knock the pump loose, and not get any contaminates in the coolant. I strained the captured coolant through a stocking and poured it back in the engine, so I only needed to add about 10 or 12 ounces of new coolant back in.
Before you start, look the job over VERY well. get a good book, a Haynes manual, at the least, and prepare yourself with as much information and tools as you can. Buy the Belts and water pump before you start, try to have everything that you can think of that you might need, BEFORE you start.
A picture is worth a thousand words, so I have posted the link below that will take you to the photos. The photo site is for photographs of all types, and the basic service is free, pictures can be stored on albums there for free. They only charge if you buy photos from them. If you are not registered, you can simply register to gain acess to viewing the pictures. Simply type in your e-mail address in place of mine, then type a password of your choice and then register for free. After you register and hit enter, you will be taken to the photos, there are about 145 of them, replacing the timing belt.
Pictures DSC08140, DSC08141, DSC08142 Smooth idler pully.
8118 Timing Belt going around Tensioner Smooth Pully.
8120 Timing Belt going around Water Smooth Pump Pully.
8131 Timing Belt going around all the pullys.
8161 & 8164 Tensioner Pivot Bolt comes off with 10mm allen hex bit.
8166 Water Pump comes off.
8167 through 8175 Dull worn water pump smooth pully with some worn spots.
8066 shows the NEW WATER PUMP PULLY, see how it shines.
Here's the link. Click or paste to your browser:
http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=216692503/a=85874609_85874609/t_- - =85874609
Have fun!
E.D. ISF
I don't think this is a aircondiitoning issue since I do not have this issue if I park my car indoors.
I have read similar post in this forum on this issue but have yet to find a post explaining how this can be fixed ?
Thanks.
I'm familiar with this because I had a mouse problem, repeatedly making their nest on top of the filter. I had to eventually put some screening on top of the baffle to keep the rascals out.
The fan is removed with 4 screws and the hardest part would be the contortionist position you'll have to assume to look up to the cowl.
Phil
The scheduled timing belt replacement is every 90,000 miles. You can go farther than 90,000 miles before the belt breaks, but if it does break, it would be a major disaster, a very expensive repair, requiring both heads to be removed and reconditioned, due to the engine being an "interference" engine, meaning that the pistons can hit and bend the valves if the engine jumps out of time. It's best to get the belt replaced on time or very soon afterwards. My 2004 HL 3.3L V6 had 101,020 miles on it when I bought it, and it ran perfect. I bought it in Miami and drove it back to St Petersburg Fl in Feb 2008. When I replaced the timing belt, the old one looked almost perfect, it was the original Toyota timing belt. But you can't just go by looks because it can have hidden cracks or weaknesses that you can't see. That high milage along with the fact that the belt needed changing made for a good deal for me, when I bought it. I didn't mind doing the work and spending $150 to save myself more than a grand. The replacement belt was a Dayco #95257, which said on the belt "Made in Italy". I will not have to replace it again, as I intend to put about 70,000 miles on the belt over the next 6 years, then sell the car in 2014 with about 170,000 miles on the car. Next time I may get a Matrix or a Vibe or a Hybrid, depending on how the hybrid batteries hold up.
If you have the 4 cyl engine, the chain will last a long time, the life of the vehicle, if you change your oil and filters as regularly scheduled and take care of the car with all scheduled maintainance. Use the proper weight Toyota engine oil, or quality synthetic motor oil such as Mobile One or Valvoline. Use only the Toyota Red Long Life Coolant in the cooling system, and dilute it 50% with only distilled water, never use tap water. What is the life of the vehicle? I would expect it to be well over 200,000 miles for a well maintained vehicle.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
It sounds as if the drain tube, dropping from the air inlet chamber is blocked. If you get under the vehicle, in the area between the front of the door and the front wheels, you will see several drain tubes. One leads from the air con and is a condensate drain taking moisture away from the chiller unit. There should be separate drains on each side for the air inlets. Sometimes these may be concealed in the fenders or otherwise hard to locate so it can help to pour a little water down the windcreen on the side where there is not a problem and then trace the water flowing out below. Match the similar drain on the other side..
To clear the drain, get some fine slightly flexible tubing (I used 1/4" irrigation tubing) and poke it up the hooe gently. If you can fabricate a fitting to a water supply, so much the better as this will lubricate the tubing's passage up the drain and wash down obstructions.
Usuallly, the problems is just some caked up mud at a bend in the drain but it could be something too large to pass down the tube.
It is one of those fiddly jobs which is satisfying when corrrected
Cheers
Graham
link title
The gas V6, beginning in 2008, has a CHAIN, not a belt (Hybrids still have a belt). Religiously following the factory-recommended maintenance schedule is always your best bet.
(1) If a timing chain lasts for the life of the vehicle, why are they offering vehicles with timing belts that have to be replaced? In other words, what is the advantage of a belt over the chain?
(2) In 1994 when I bought a Corolla wagon, the Toyota dealer was bragging that their engines -- unlike some of their competitors' engines -- were non-interference and that the engine wouldn't be permanently damaged if the timing belt broke. So what is the advantage to offering vehicles in this day and age with an interference engine?
2. VVT-i, more critical valve timing. FE in '94 was..??
Oh, and I did check for a loose gas cap and disconnected vacuum hoses!
Does anyone know what codes the gas cap and the vacuum hoses cause?
Jonas
Carson Toyota online will give the best price ~$165.
DRAT....!!
I will use an open-end wrench if it should come to that.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Recap - Check Engine Light on, codes P1130 and P1135, best bet new Bank1 Sensor 1 required.
Some initial thoughts -
The rear (Bank1) O2 sensor and its connector are easy to see and reach from under the car. BUT, you can only reach the connector with one hand - IMHO it takes two hands to disconnect. Maybe there's a trick or a special tool. I practiced on the front (Bank2) connector and that wasn't easy with two hands. You can also reach the Bank1 connector from above the engine, but again with only one hand. When my new sensor arrives Wednesday (from RockAuto, genuine Denso replacement with connector, $144 shipped) I'm going to try two people, me from above squeezing the release on the connector with someone from below pulling the male end out.
You can get a 22mm open end wrench on the rear O2 sensor, but at a bad angle. With the wires disconnected I think there will be a better angle with a box end wrench. That's what I did on the front sensor, when I had the bright idea to swap them to see what it did to the diagnostic codes. That plan didn't work for two reasons - I can't get the rear connector apart, and when I loosened the front sensor, it became progressively harder to unscrew, so I decided to tighten it back up, which it didn't want to do. I hope I have it tight enough now, with back and forth effort and Kroil (the oil that creeps).
More later, and I have pics.
Jonas
Unscrew O2 sensors carefully, if they start to get tight when unscrewing them, spray some penetrating oil on the exposed threads and screw it back in a little and work the sensor back and forth a few times to work the oil into the threads. Apply oil as often as needed. It should loosen and eventually come out. Before putting a used or new O2 sensor back in, coat the threads with a small amount of Neverseize compound (available at auto parts stores). Put the Neverseize carefully only on the threads, do not contaminate the sensor with the compound. This will help in the future, in case you should have to remove it again.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Been so long since I was on here last, testament to how good our Highlander has been to us. However......brakes have been an issue and now the ABS is acting up.
Very occasionally, when coming to a medium gentle stop, the ABS will kick in when there is absolutely no need. I checked all mechanical brake parts and all OK. Checked tyre pressures and did a small correction. There are no warning lights at all. If you have enough speed left, a quick lift off the brake and back on again will clear the fault. Otherwise, braking is as normal, soft and lazy unless you activate the brake assist, then it stands on its nose :P Any ideas ?
Recap - Check Engine Light on, codes P1130 and P1135, best bet new Bank1 Sensor 1 required.
The rear (Bank1) O2 sensor and its connector are easy to see and reach from under the car. BUT, you can only reach the connector with one hand - IMHO it takes two hands to disconnect. Maybe there's a trick or a special tool. I practiced on the front (Bank2) connector and that wasn't easy with two hands. You can also reach the Bank1 connector from above the engine, but again with only one hand. Two people made it a quick job, pressing the connector latch from above and removing the male end from below.
For the inexperienced, O2 sensors are in the exhaust manifolds, which heat up quickly and cool down slowly. Plan on leaving the car for a couple hours to cool after it is driven last.
I bought the new sensor from RockAuto.com, genuine Denso replacement with connector, $144 shipped to VA.
You can get a 22mm open end wrench on the rear O2 sensor, but at a bad angle. With the wires disconnected you can slip a box end wrench over the connector and wire and get a better angle, but it's still not very good, because a nearby exhaust flange gets in the way. I'm using a combination wrench that has a straight handle on the open end, and an angled handle on the box end. A true box end wrench with a dropped end might be perfect. As it was I had very little angle of rotation available, but enough with using both the open end and box end.
Once I broke loose the sensor (took a hammer on the wrench), the rear O2 sensor spun right out by hand, as opposed to the front sensor, which became progressively harder to unscrew when I was checking it. As electricdesign said in 4358, if that happens, patiently work the sensor back and forth with penetrating oil. My new sensor came with a packet of antiseize compound, which I applied to the threads sparingly, careful to not get it on the sensor itself.
The connector goes back together easily with one hand, since the female part is attached to a stable base, you can just push in the male end.
I cleared the codes with a borrowed scanner, and so far, no lights or codes. With the old sensor, cleared codes would reappear within a minute.
A relatively simple repair, much cheaper than what people on this forum have reportedly paid.
Jonas
A thing or two I forgot to mention.
At least in my "Complete: ..." message I didn't say I have a 2001 V6 Ltd.
I've read on this list and somewhere else that the V6 HLs have four O2 sensors - I can only find three - two precat (Bank1 and Bank2 Sensor1) and one post-cat right before the muffler.
If you look on the various parts websites you'll see numerous O2 sensors which supposedly fit the precat locations. Some have connectors, others (universal fit) have just wires and you have to splice on the Toyota connector - they're much cheaper. Well, I'm cheap but I don't like the idea of having spliced wires on the O2 sensors, right near the exhaust manifolds, so I sprung for a genuine replacement.
Toyota calls this sensor an Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) sensor rather than an O2 sensor (not to be confused with an Air Flow or Mass Air Flow sensor, completely different). I suspect an AFR sensor and an O2 sensor are the same thing, in fact there's a previous message that says so. A local parts store told me they're different, and that only a Denso would work correctly, that a Bosch wouldn't work. I'm skeptical of that advice, but I went ahead and bought a Denso anyway.
Oh, and if you have the tools, two people and a cool engine, and the sensor comes right out, it's a 15 minute job.