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Comments
I second the point about needing the right tools and experience, it's not a job for the faint hearted or inexperienced. I found I needed a number of different lengths of sockets - not just extensions, and I needed to use my wobblers to get at a few of the tougher bolts.
I have a couple of tips to add:
My haynes manual said to remove the steering pump. I found this too difficult - too hard to get at all the bolts through the pulley with the engine in the car. Instead I found I could move the bracket that tightens the belt to get it out of the way of the various bolts I needed to reach - the ones on the timing belt cover, and the belt tensioner. Bit of a fiddle to get the tensioner out with it there, but it did come out.
For that annoying aluminum bracket bolted and held with studs onto the block, the one in the way of the timing belt. I didn't have to remove the studs to get it off (I didn't have that stud remover, what is that E.D.?). I found that by jacking up the engine from the pan, then using my body weight on the chassis, the engine would move up slightly. This gave just enough room around the frame to slip the bracket off the studs. Whew! Replacement is the reverse of disassembly .
Mike
My search on the internet and other boards has uncovered this issue with past years Highlanders and past years other Toyos. So far the local service managers have not been helpful, I have an appointment on Tuesday, telling me anything about this.
Can anyone shed some light on this for me.
Thanks :sick:
The studs that hold that annoying aluminum bracket on are equally annoying. Picture #08120 shows the end of a still installed stud, and you can see the end of the stud is not plain, but has a male TORX head on it. Picture #08125 shows two studs removed, so that you can see the whole stud with the male TORX head end. Pictures #08121, 08122 & 08123 show me loosing the studs with a TORX socket on the end of a 1/4 inch drive breaker bar. Those things were very tight! I can't remember the TORX socket size I used, but if you have a set of them, you will have the one that you need. The studs are only turned enough until they are loose, and left in the bracket, because there is not enough room for them to slide out of the bracket. Once all of them are loose, you can then lift the bracket out with the studs in the bracket, as in photo #'s 08124 & 08126. These studs and their threads are subject to a lot of corrosion, so when I put them back in, I coated the studs with a liberal coating of never seize compound.
Reference messege # 4335 for information on how to access the photos.
E.D.
I'm not sure you understood my tip - there's no need to loosen or remove the power steering pump at all, as long as you don't mind pushing it up and down on the belt adjuster to get it out of the way a few times. I used a piece of metal tube and a hammer. Only the adjustment bracket need be removed.
Same with the aluminum bracket - there's no need to remove the studs from the block, it's possible to slip the bracket off the studs by pushing up on the engine/down on the chassis - there's just enough room. Of course it's important to remember to fit the bolts beforehand, they can be a fiddle otherwise!
Mike
I just went outside and tightened the nut. It was indeed loose. A simple 5 minute job. Tested and works great now. I just made $900 bucks!
From messege #4294: I changed the belts and water pump myself on my 04 Highlander V6, and the job only cost me about $150.00 for the parts, water pump, timing belt, alternator/AC belt, power steering pump belt & 1 gallon of Toyota red long life coolant. It was a fulls days work and a lot of tools though.
I think about from $600 to $700 would be an average price, but depends on your location. The $465 sounds like a very good deal, if they warranty and stand behind their work.
Also see messeges #4331 and #4335 for more information and how to view photos of the work being done.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
We'll see what he finds.
A friend with a PRISTINE garage floor got his '95 LS back from the same dealer with a leaking rear engine seal after an oil/filter change. $1100 later and all they would do was offer a free oil change.
1) What the clockspring does?
2) How does it work?
3) What is its purpose, as it relates to the SRS system, or any other system?
Any hints.....
In your experience is there another possible source of the intermittent message.
Also, if the message comes up should it leave a code in the diagnostic computer.
In what cases would a code not be saved?
The message is "Check SRS Airbag System Have your vehicle checked by a dealer immediately"
Regarding that aluminum engine mounting bracket right on top of the water pump, I removed the single bolt along the frame right in front of it holding a PS hose to the frame. After removing that, the bracket just slides off. No removing the studs nor jacking up the motor.
A few things make this difficult .....
no room to work. My hands were sore, scraped and cut for days.
The alternator bolts were VERY difficult to get to even for normal belt replacement
After removing the bolts, getting the upper belt cover out/ back in properly was difficult.
Glad I still have an electric impact wrench. rated at 340 ft lbs. Still had to stay on the crank bolt for about 5 minutes before it would budge. I don't know HOW I would have removed it if I didn't have an impact wrench.
As already stated, not a job for the feign of heart. Too easy to strip a bolt head of worse if one is not careful.
Mikey ( name sounds young but I remember servicing engines before PCV systems ... breather pipes .. and it was an 'old' motor at 60K let alone 100+K today )
What irks me is that I've changed the oil every 3,000 miles, first with the dealer and then with Jiffy Lube. I had everything done that was "recommended", as I had decided it was better to play it safe. Now I find it was all for nothing (well, I guess it could always be worse) since I still will have to pay what I'm sure will be upward of $2,000.
Of course, I have to take the mechanic's word for it. Unless I take the engine apart for myself and have a look (which is outside of my capabilities), I'll never know for sure.
The problem is the TYPE of engine oil that was used. If you want to keep the GUNK out of your engine, you need to use a top quality full synthetic motor oil, such as Mobil One or Valvoline or other top graded oil, AND a top quality synthetic motor oil filter, such as Mobil One or the Purolator Pure One.
My 04 V6 FWD HL has over 110,000 GUNK free miles on it, and I only change oil and filter every 7,500 miles using either Mobile One or Valvoline full synthetic motor oils and Pure One motor oil filter. It always runs like brand new and doesn't leak a drop of anything.
Also important to remember: Every 60,000 miles to Flush and change the Automatic Transmission fluid and to Flush and change the Brake Fluid. This will keep the GUNK out of these systems also.
E.D. in Sunny Florida
Removing those studs was not a problem and was fairly easy, it is just a matter of having the right tool (torx socket). They were tight, but once they break loose, they screw right out fairly easily. Not a problem.
E.D. in Sunny Florida
I'd be a bit dubious about a quickie lube doing my oil changes. I don't believe in tranny "flushes" either. But we digress. :shades:
Since Toyota's have had "gel" problems, I'd contact Toyota and ask them to open a case. Maybe they'll fix all or part of it. The history is in the Toyota Engine Sludge discussion.
Check out Understanding After Warranty Assistance too.
The code in the diagnostic computer said that the ECM, (I think that was it, if not I will repost the correct verbiage), airbag computer needed to be replaced. They are doing that now.
I spoke to the lead mechanic and he told me that when this message appears the airbag system is definitely not functioning.
I hope this solves this for good.
Thanks
My guess would be that over half of the '02 out there in the marketplace will fit that description.
The question becomes, "how much of a leak..??"
I would continue to drive the car for awhile and keep careful records of how often and how much water or oil needs to be replaced.
Last winter (in Northern VA, not too cold a climate) it seemed a little sluggish, so it was on my radar. Today it just wouldn't crank at all (click, click, click).
Fortunately I had a old but only slightly used Diehard Weatherbeater sitting around, so we'll see how that goes.
So far: Left front wheel bearing (warranty), driver's window motor (warranty), rear O2 sensor, clean ISC valve, tires, brakes, and battery. Not perfect, but fine with me coming up on eight years.
Jonas
Just a comment on the tranny "flushes":
Changing transmission fluid is better than not changing it, but flushing the transmission fluid is better yet.
What is important to remember is What a flush is, and Why you need it.
There is some confusion on What a tranny flush is, so I will clear it up here. Many people think that a tranny flush is a special process and/or that it takes a special flushing machine to do the job. Both of those ideas are misconceptions. A tranny flush is like any other flush, compare it to when you flush a toilet. The new water rushes in and the old water rushes out. In the process there is some mixing of the old dirty water with the new clean water, but the new clean water pushes out all the old dirty water, and some of the new clean water goes down the drain in the process. The reason you need the flush is that you need to get rid of the old dirty water and replace it with the new clean water. Think of the trannny flush in the same way, but instead of water, it is tranny fluid. Some transmissions have replaceable filters that are recommended to be replaced, and some transmissions have screens that are not recommended to be replaced. I do this process to each of my vehicles at every 60,000 miles. Check your manufacturer's recommendations and owners manual to see how often to change/flush your transmission fluid.
The following is intended as a general guide only. The routine or sequence may need to be altered, depending on the make, model and type of vehicle.
The first step for flushing is to have the vehicle jacked up with all drive wheels off the ground and the wheels blocked, for clearance and safety so that the car won't move when the gears are engaged. Then loosen one end of the hose that returns the fluid from the external trans fluid cooler back to the transmission. Then the engine is started and run, the transmissions internal pump then pumps the tranny fluid through the external oil cooler and out the end of the loosened hose into the drain tub.
Then the next step on trannys that have replaceable filters, is to remove the tranny pan, drain the oil from the pan, clean the pan, replace the filter, and replace the pan. Now all the fluid has been drained from the tranny, but there is still some residual amount of fluid left the the transmission passages and components, which is why you need to the flush to push out the old dirty fluid and replace it with new clean fluid.
The next step is easier with an assistant behind the wheel to start and stop the engine and to change the selector lever positions. Start in the Park position. Position a large drain tub under the loosened cooler hose to catch all the fluid that comes out, the capacity of the transmission plus about 6 quarts. Usually a 6 gallon capacity tub or larger is enough. It helps if you slide a 2 foot piece of larger clear plastic hose over the end of the cooler hose. This helps to control the fluid and also to see the color of the fluid as it drains. Start by pouring 4 quarts of transmission fluid into the transmission filler tube, then have the assistant start the engine, let the engine idle, do not rev the engine, and the fluid will begin to come out the hose into the drain pan. Start pouring in the bottles of transmission fluid, watching the color of the fluid coming out into the tub. Have the assistant firmly hold the foot brake and slowly move the selector through all the gear positions a few times. The fluid will be dark at first and will lighten as the new fluid goes through the transmission. The fluid should be lighter after 4 quarts and should be light very light by six quarts. Stop pouring in fluid when the fluid comes out clean and light, usually by 4 to 6 quarts, then have the assistant shut off the engine and place the transmission in park.
The tranny is now flushed. Reconnect and tighten the clamp on the oil cooler hose. Pour in 4 quarts of fluid, then have the assistant start the engine again, let it idle, then add one quart of fluid at a time, checking the fluid level when close to full. Be very careful to not overfill the tranny. If you happen to overfill the tranny, you can loosen the cooler hose and let a small amount of fluid out and recheck the fluid level. Be sure to retighten all hose clamps when you are done.
The transmission is now flushed and refilled, the old fluid is out and the new fluid is in. Be sure to properly dispose of the old tranny fluid. I pour all my used oil based fluids into a 6 gallon plastic gas can that I keep just for this purpose. A really BIG funnel with your assistant holding it is a big help here. The container can be capped closed and then taken to an oil recycling facility and dumped out.
E.D. in Sunny Florida
amigo_john, "Isuzu Trooper" #8070, 30 Jun 2003 6:46 am
I had this discussion with my (now-ex) mechanic a few months back. They wanted to "flush" my transmission fluid using just the internal pump. I wouldn't let them - just got a drain and fill, told them I'd watch my fluid level and do another drain and fill in a year. (Mine has a dipstick; not sure about the Highlander). Transmission fluid really doesn't get dirty like oil unless you have some issues going on.
That's good enough for me; others may think it's beneficial or it may be recommended in your owner's manual. I don't have access to a manual, but the Edmunds Maintenance Guide says to inspect the fluid every 30k for the '08 Highlander. I assume that's for normal service and the manual probably says something about changing the fluid if you tow or drive a lot in the mountains perhaps.
(my mechanic ripped me off on some other stuff btw; the tranny discussion didn't factor into it).
The secret to making a transmission last a long time is to keep it COOL and to keep it CLEAN.
E.D.
Hey, you should buy my Quest - great VQ drivetrain and it meets your mileage criteria.
Ok, back to Highlanders.
Engine lubricating oil is EXPECTED to become dirty due to byproducts of the combustion process getting past the piston rings and valve seals. Engine oil is formulated to hold these particles in suspension whereas ATF is formulated otherwise. Absent the ATF having been overheated, drop the sump pan on your transmission and you will undoubtedly find a layer of debris from the wear of the frictional clutch surfaces, but a reasonably clean and clear ATF.
I always run my engines long enough to get up to normal operating temperature just before draining the engine oil. That way I drain off most of the contamination that might otherwise have settled to the bottom of the sump.
How do keep from burning your hands btw? I can't crawl under my van until it cools down a bit to change my oil.
My own idea -- not proven by any actual research (so take it with a grain of salt) -- is that it is better to just change the oil and let the crud rest in peace . . . where it isn't doing any damage. The only exceptions may be engines that are prone to sludge build-up.
No issue with my five mile drive home.
What would you do to make sure it keeps running right after this error?
And now that I have reinstalled the gas cap properly, can I prevent the check engine light from coming on?
(I live in a fairly cold climate near the Indiana/Michigan state line.)
Bud H
Initial replacement at 100,000 miles/120 months. Replace every 50,000 miles/60 months thereafter. Refer to "Engine Coolant" in the "Explanation of Maintenance Items" section in the back of this guide for more information.
Pretty amazing if you remember the "good old days" when you changed coolant every couple of years.
43,000 miles
I opened my hood today to add some windshield washer fluid and I noticed that my coolant level was exactly on the "L" level. I also noticed some dried up coolant at the end of the hose that goes towards the radiator. The coolant level seems to stay the same when I checked it this morning and when I checked it when I came home. When I look in the coolant reservoir it is yellow on the top. Other than filling up the reservoir a bit does anyone have any other suggestions, should I be worried?
Here is a link to the pics:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=draganplavsic&target=ALBUM&id=528357- 4488921410145&authkey=S2JOcBVaJx0&feat=email
Phil