Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

toyotagal · April 2009

I am having the darndest time getting the straps hanging from near the ceiling inside the tailgate to stay attached to the bottom. It seems that everytime I touch them or hit a bump one of them will pop loose. I can reattach them but it is just temporary.

I have never used those straps nor can I forsee using them.

webgood · April 2009

You didn't mention what year HL you have. On my '04, down inside that slot is a plastic hook facing down. I took a heavy duty rubber band, looped it down in there until it got around the hook, then several times looped it around the top of the buckle while an able assistant held the buckle close to the slot. Pushed it down in...it's stayed for months and no rattle or pop-up.
Regards, BGood

toyotagal · April 2009

I have a 2007 Highlander. And I have never used those straps and don't have a clue as to what they would be used for. I just want them to stop popping loose for little reason.

Curious what do you and others use those straps for?

grahampeters · April 2009

G'day

The straps are the seat belts for the third row seats. They have two seat belt buckle type connectors on them. When the third row seat is raised, you plug the buckle at the end of the strap in to holder at the outer end of the seat and then use the second buckle normally as a seat belt. However the plastic receptacle into which they are supposed to clip when not using the third row seats does not hold them secure. I just let them flip around but if the buckle is laying in a position where it rubs against other hard components, they rattle. Judicious use of a rubber band around them seems to work.

Cheers

Graham

toyotagal · April 2009

It is no wonder that I didn't know what those straps were for. There are no 3rd row seats in my Highlander. And it is sad that they install them irrespective of whether you have 3rd row seats or not.

To me they are distracting when looking into the rear view mirror and also flapping in the breeze when wiindows are open.

grahampeters · April 2009

G'day

That is weird. I have never known a car manufacturer to install something as expensive as seat belts if they do not need to. The third row seats are normally folded flat and form the load floor. If you slide the second row forward you can see the head rests for the third row and the release has a handle in the middle of the floor. If there is no third row, the third row seat area is replaced by a storage area.

Cheers

Graham

typesix · April 2009

If your Highlander doesn't have 3rd row seats, then the 3rd row belts shouldn't be there. My 2004 Highlander doesn't have the 3rd row seat or the belts. If your Highlander was bought used, the previous owner may have taken out the 3rd row seats, as some had no use for them.

rpell1 · May 2009

Hi all,

My 2003 HL 4cyl. 4wd. heater control is not doing it's job. Intermittantly, no matter where the dial is placed, HOT air is coming out.. :mad: ...This also happens, sometimes, when the A/C is on as well. After a minute or so of playing with the dial and fan settings, I can get things back to normal....but not always.

Any ideas where the gremlin is? This whole thing is "heating me up"!

Thanks,

webgood · May 2009

rpell...short answer, check-out the Toyota Heating Ventilation and Air thread. Your answer is there. But, shorter answer...grab the center turn knob of the 3 on the HVAC controls, pull straight out, it comes right off, tighten the locking nut on the control post, push the knob back on,done. Regards, BGood

mikefm58 · May 2009

Well said, just one update. Before pulling the center turn knob out, wiggle it. If there is lots of play, then this is the problem and continue as directed in the previous post.

tsotsi · May 2009

As I wrote before, the odds are good that your heat control nut is going to come loose and possibly result in an expensive problem. If it stays loose long enough, some of the wires may break from fatigue. If the knob feels the least bit wobbly, you would be wise to pull the knob off and tighten the nut. It only takes a couple of minutes. I put some Loctite on mine. I didn't wait for the heat to become erratic.

Why Toyota didn't put a locking device on the nut is a mystery to me. I am not cynical enough to believe they are trying increase dealer profits, but this is something they should have fixed years ago. I wonder if the new model Highlander has the same problem.

rpell1 · May 2009

Many, many thanks........I had nightmares of a VERY expensive repair bill. I was told by a dealer that a replacement of the entire module may be the only fix, around $800 to $900. I said, "thank you", and got my "highlander" out of there.

I'm glad to hear it's probably an easiy fix.

Thank you again,

Rpell

tsotsi · May 2009

Even if tightening the nut does not completely fix the problem, there is no need to pay a dealer big bucks. You, or somebody else who is handy at minor repairs, can easily remove the old module and solder the wires if they are loose or broken. This has been described in Tundra Solutions.

izzo233 · May 2009

A service writer said that I should have a throttle body cleaning and this will help with my acceleration issues.Has anyone had this done and has it improved performance? Toyota is running a $69.99 Top Engine Cleaning service that includes throttle body cleaning,intake and valve cleaning and fuel system cleaner and additive.My 2006 has 39k miles. Do or not to do? Any suggestions? Thanks for the input..

mdhutton · May 2009

I've never had throttle body cleaning done on a Toyota yet, but have had it on other vehicles I've owned and it does make a difference. $69.99 seems fair.

izzo233 · May 2009

Thanks for the response..

eenglish99 · June 2009

I have a 2002 Millenium Silver Highlander with the aluminum wheels. They have been holding up oretty well but on two of them the center piece inside the lug nuts with the logo on it is starting to peel on only 2 of them.
Is this a common problem?
Can you just get this little piece and replace them?
I may try touch up paint.
Thanks

otownronnie · June 2009

when i start my 2003 highlander i hear a humming noise what could it be it has 91000 miles on it. could it be the timing belt or a pully going bad

carterk · June 2009

Can anyone confirm that 03 HL (no-frills model) has a/c filters, the kind which can be replaced? Last year when I was at dealer for oil change, I noticed a flyer for these filters, and asked if I should have mine replaced. Was told that 03 didn't have that feature. This year when in for inspection and oil/filter change, and miracle of miracles, the a/c filters "badly needed replacing." So I said yes. And it was done in just a jiffy. Supposedly that job requires removal of the dashboard. Now I'm wondering.....
I would like to have some backup data before I go to dealer mgt. and ask some serious questions. I've waited several months to do this in order to cool my jets!!

jrfiero · June 2009

The interior air filter is in front of the glovebox, and requires no tools to replace. 2001 did not come with them (but they slip right in), all subsequent years did, to my knowledge. After six years they probably were pretty clogged up - You can also take them out and clean them ...
How much did they charge for this service?

Jonas

grahampeters · June 2009

G'day

Removal is very straightforward. Squeeze in each side of the glovebox very firmly, and lower the glovebox down. Disconnect the string on the return spring assembly if necessary. Be careful as the string end is swaged back on itself and can break at the swage.

The fan is directly in front of the glovebox and above it is a plastic panel about 10 inches wide by 1 inch high held in place by two plastic clips at the upper edge. Release the clips and you will find a tray style filter behind. The tray holds a removable paper element that can be removed, shaken out and replaced if required.

The complete job takes less than a minute

Cheers

Graham

rbm4 · June 2009

I just would like say thanks to all who commented on the problem with the nut coming loose behind the knob; I was very fortunate to catch it before the wires broke off. Thanks again!

worthflorida · July 2009

Just started this past week, my wife tells me that the AC light on the AC switch was blinking. She cycled it and it seemed OK. But this morning it stalled when putting it in drive and the AC was on. I noticed no fan(s) were running and the idle was dead slow (not in high idle to compensate for the AC load. When the engine gets hot enough to call for cooling, both fans kick in at high speed and the engine idle increases and the AC compressor kicks in.

Took out my volt-ohm meter and started checking. All fuses are OK, all three fan relays are good. I can bypass the relay contacts with a jumper and the fans turn on but the idle does not. The problem is there is no voltage to operate the relay coils when the AC turned on. With air flow over the AC condenser, the AC will not work until you drive it. Obvious.

The check engine light is NOT on. It's either a sensor or the computer is wacked. Anyone have any thoughts or have had this problem?

nathanbrand · July 2009

My 2004 Highlander has about 55,000 miles. I've just been told that I need all new brake pads and rotors at a dealer cost of about $1,000. The rotors, I was informed, are too rusted to be turned, and so must be replaced. I've had the car in for service and inspection every 5,000 miles, and it went from no problems to this. I've always been careful about getting my brake pads replaced on time, and have never needed replacement rotors (whether it was a Honda, Isuzu, or even my lemon Chrysler).

At Midas the mechanic said that this is fairly common now, Rotors are being made to wear out like exhaust systems and typically only last from 40,000 to 60,000 miles. In the past I've driven vehicles over 120,000 miles and never had to replace a rotor. He also said the typical cost is about $425 an axle, although the Highlander rotors are more expensive.

I'm wondering what other Highlander (or Toyota) owners experiences have been. If you could reply in the following format:

Make: 2004 Highlander
Miles (Before Replacing Brakes): 55,000
Costs: $900

I'll try and collect the information and see if my experience is typical. If so, I think it's a shame that automakers have decided to use planned obsolescence in order to boost profits. If Toyota doesn't watch out, they're going to end up in the same shape as US automakers. :sick:

bikeman3 · July 2009

I have 113000 miles on a 03 HL front rotors turned twice. Rear rotors will be replaced tomorrow for 2nd time. I would not go to Midas, shop around. Good Luck

worthflorida · July 2009

Brakes are like a air filters, they'll last forever if you never use them. For the last decade or more brake components have been made smaller for lighter weight to get better gas mileage and to make up for the smaller rotors, more aggressive disk pads are now used to get the stopping power needed. My mechanic tells me that most BMW's rotors do not last past the first set of pads. The rotors are made of a softer metal to get that good stopping distance we all expect.

Other factors are if you live in hilly or mountainous area, you'll use your brake harder than say in Florida where I live. Also, how hard or fast you drive is another factor. Maybe on your first brake pads were replaced a more aggressive pad material. Most pads today are semi metallic, that means there is metal in the pad material to get the friction up. When you see cars with very bad brake dust, most of it is metal dust sticking to the metal wheels.

As a general on the first set of pads, the rotors should be good for at least one cut and the end of life when the second set of pads wear out. A lot of repair shops will also want to replace the brake caliper because the dust boots on them can be deteriorating because of the high heat that builds up especially during hard braking. Also, the brake fluid can also be contaminated because of moisture can be absorbed into the brake fluid and the excessive heat from the pads will transfer to the brake fluid and it can boil if it gets hot enough. With anti lock brake systems, you do not want to push this old fluid back into the brake system when the brake piston is pushed back into the caliper.

Therefore, a full brake job, at least for the front wheels, could be a set of pads, two rotors, two calipers, fluid flushed, and labor. You did not mention if the brake quote was for two or four wheels. For two, $900 is very high. A repair shop should be a round $450-$500. Today, dealers will charge over $100-125 an hour for labor, and my mechanic on the corner repair shop charges $85 per hour.

check out this site for some good info
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/disc-brake.htm

worthflorida · July 2009

I forgot to mention, my 2003 Highlander did go about 55K on the first set of pads and I replaced them with the dustless brakes pads from Autozone. They were about $40. I did the job myself and I did not have to cut the rotors because they were in good shape. There is now 87K on the Highlander and I haven't checked them but the pads to do have wear indicators and I'm not hearing them so there is still pad material left. Looking at the rotors they do not look bad. On the next change of pads I will remove the rotors and get them measured and if there is material left I'll have them cut and reuse them. If there is not enough material left on them I'll need to buy replacements and the last time I looked they were about $90 each at Auto zone.

wwest · July 2009

Low refrigerant charge....HEAT (condensor) raises the refrigerant pressure just enough to enable the compressor clutch circuit which is locked out with too low refrigerant pressure.

Good catch.

mikefm58 · July 2009

Your problem is you went to Midas. My 04 HL has 50K miles and the original set of brake pads and rotors, though I do expect the pads will need to be replaced shortly. I'm with you on the rotors, they should last a couple pad changes with just turning them.

My son has an 04 Tacoma and the pads were replaced at 40K miles and the rotors were turned, total cost $200.

bikeman3 · July 2009

There are a lot of low quality rotors out there, Dura International is one, the thickness isn't what OEM parts are. The OEM are much more expensive than off market stuff, Call different parts store and get prices on them. ASK what the expected liftetime is. How many times can they be trued etc . See the Detroit News auto section

http://www.detnews.com/apps/pbcs.dll/section?category=AUTO01

tsotsi · July 2009

The service advisor at my local Toyota dealer told me that my brake pads were completely worn out at a little over 40,000 miles and needed immediate replacement. He indicated that the rotors could probably be turned rather than replaced. I did a little research (in the manual) and discovered that the Highlander has a system to warn drivers of severely worn pads -- a probe touches the turning disc and gives an audible warning. You can safely wait for the warning tone before changing pads.

Since brakes are a safety issue, I am not qualified to give advice. But the following is a quote from the "Tech Correspondence" column in the July issue of Road & Track: "While full-thickness, dead smooth brake rotors provide the most fade resistance and best pedal feel, the cost of replacing good rotors with perfect rotors has never added up to us. Unless the discs are heavily scored, warped or undersize we simply replace the brake pads."

I found a set of original equipment pads for a little over $100. Brake grease is only a couple of dollars. I am going to just change the pads when needed. I did this on my Honda Accord and the brakes worked fine. But safety is involved . . . best to decide how important it is to save a few bucks.

herzogtum71 · July 2009

2004 4-cylinder FWD -- My brakes and rotors (front and rear) were replaced in March at 63,000 miles. The dealer had told me when I had it in for service before that the brakes would likely need to be replaced with the next service. They did charge the upper end of what was mentioned in a previous post, so taking it to an independent repair shop could save some money. But I too would avoid the big chain shops that specialize in mufflers and brakes.

Curious thing is that I heard no sound at all when I braked, and the service rep said that the 2004 had no brake indicators. So I wouldn't expect to hear anything even though he described the wear as being basically metal on metal at that point.

One other point is that brakes on a vehicle with manual transmission tend to last longer than on a vehicle with an automatic. I had a 1994 Corolla station wagon that I traded in when I got the Highlander. It had a manual transmission, and I never had to have the brake pads or rotors replaced in 111,000 miles.

grahampeters · July 2009

G'day

Brake usage is very much dependent upon usage patterns. I have 112,000km (say 70,000 miles) on my Kluger which is used in a combination of city and freeway with some on-dirt. Last service suggests pads are at 55% remaining wear and rotors not significantly worn. However, rotors do warp if wheel studs overtightened (actually noticeable after wheels rotated).

I tend to drive to minimize fuel usage, reading traffic ahead, coasting to lights and minimizing braking, but keeping up with traffic flow or ahead. TYpically, I find that the aggressive driver ahead has made it to just in front of me by the end of my commute, so not overly laid back.

Cheers

Graham

worthflorida · July 2009

Good point and I'll get the pressure checked. The AC does work quite good in South Florida but it could be on the teeter edge that it needs some R134a.

But what you are saying that since the low pressure switch cuts out the AC clutch, it also cuts out (to the computer) the idle speed control and the AC fan?

I've had this happen on other cars, as the low pressure switch cuts out the clutch, the low pressure side slowly build up some pressure and the clutch kicks in again and this on/off cycle continues. Usually, the idle and fans still operate as if the AC was on and working 100%.

wwest · July 2009

If the climate control ECU "senses" that the compressor cannot be run due to low refrigerant then why would it go ahead and open the throttle further, and activate the fans, for an additional load that isn't there.

The blinking A/C light typically means the ECU is trying to run the compressor but the clutch or the drive belt is slipping. In that case the ECU would initially go ahead and open the throttle and turn on the fans as the expectation was that the compressor is operational.

Did you say the engine stalled when the A/C was switched on..??

tsotsi · July 2009

As far as I know, all Highlander have brake indicators (unless somebody has removed them). ". . . he described the wear as basically being metal on metal . . ." is almost word for word what the service rep in Florida told me. I guess it is part of their script. Also, the worst thing "metal on metal" would do is to damage the rotors . . . which they want to change anyway. It is easy to look through gaps in the calipers to see how much pad is left. With some wheels it might be easier with the wheel removed.

The economy is bad and dealers aren't making money selling new cars. Service departments are their cash cow. It certainly shouldn't hurt anything (but your pocketbook) to change the pads early, but it makes me nervous when service reps don't tell the truth. I am going to start checking everything they tell me from now on.

ethericone · July 2009

My 05' Highlander has 70,000 miles and finally needs the front brake pads replaced. The dealer has bumped their repair rates recently because I suspect it is the only way they can stay in business since they are not selling too many cars. I'm considering going to Brake Check, Just Brakes, Brake Specialists, or some other brake repalcement company, but I am afraid I will get sub-standard brake pads that will squeel. Has anyone had any good experiences replacing brake pads at any aftermarket company? If so, I need your advice and wisdom. THANKS!

bikeman3 · July 2009

On front brakes I had dealer do them, they are better at rsurf. the rotors. Ask the other places what kind of pads they sell; go to Auto parts stores price out different pads see what the dealer sell as well. I have never had a problem with the dealer installed pads. I know the dealer charges more but they know Toyotas.

mikefm58 · July 2009

I know that Just Brakes are the worst of the worst, $99 for all 4 wheels advertised to get you in the door, then all kinds of add-ons, stay away from them.

jrfiero · July 2009

IMHO, there is rarely a need to resurface rotors at the first brake pad change, unless the pads have worn to metal, before which you would certainly notice the "squealers" (worn brake pad indicators). The HL is the easiest brake pad change I've ever done, nice design.

My 2001 still had pad thickness over the wear limit, which IIRC is only 1 mm, at ~60,000 miles when I replaced them because the VA safety inspectors were worried about them lasting another year.

Costs - I get coupons from three competing Toyota dealers, and there is almost always an active 25% off parts special going on, which makes original equipment competitive with discount stores, and original equipment is almost always better quality.

If your servicer recommends resurfacing or replacement of rotors, ask why - look at the surfaces of the rotors if possible. They don't need to be glass smooth, new pads will bed in quickly to minor irregularities in the surface. The only reason to replace rotors is if they have worn too thin (or they somehow have huge gouges), and the shop should show you a measurement, and refer to a service limit. HL pads are not very aggressive, and shouldn't wear rotors to replacement by the first pad change (or the second).

herzogtum71 · July 2009

Thanks for the input. They must learn the "metal on metal" phrase at training school. This is not the only questionable work that has been done on our vehicles in the last year by my dealer's service department. I guess it's time to start having an independent shop do the routine maintenance.

wwest · July 2009

"..if they have worn too thin.."

In my expereince brake rotors do not "wear" too thin, only being turned on a lathe results in the rotors being too thin to be turned yet again.

edmpt · August 2009

I agree, I think most times rotors need resurfacing to reduce any warping or glazing that occurs with overheating them, or heating them up too quickly,

wwest · August 2009

Other than warping I think resurfacing goes back to the days of riveted brake pads. Pad wears down, no "warning" system, rivets damage the rotor. Haven't had a rotor turned in the past 30 years, just install new brake pads.

Kirstie_H · August 2009

If you own a 2006  2010 Toyota Highlander and live in the Los Angeles area, please contact ctalati@edmunds.com by August 12 if youre interested in being contacted for more information on your vehicle ownership experience.

tde76 · August 2009

Hi, Does anyone know how to remove the hood mounted windshield washer nozzle? I would like to replace one on my vehicle but do not know how to get the old one out without damaging the paint work. Help please.

(2002 Highlander Limited)

Thanks,

tde

phrosut · August 2009

I finally got around to replacing my front pads ('03 AWD Limited). I probably did it a few months sooner than I would have because of the posts here.

We just turned 95,000 miles a few weeks ago.

There was still almost 1/8" on each pad remaining, less before the 'squeakers' would have started contacting the disc.

Phil

retropia · August 2009

I've got 67,000 on my '01 Highlander V6 AWD, and I'm still on my original brakes. I haven't started hearing the wear sensors yet, but I wouldn't be surprised if the pads are starting to get thin.

I had poor experiences using Midas to do brake work on my '93 Geo Prizm. They insisted on turning the rotors; their brake pads squealed when they got warm; they replaced the pads with the exact same model pads at no charge but insisted on charging me again to turn the rotors again. The brakes still squealed. I ended up taking the car to an independent shop and they replaced the pads with ones imported from Australia; silent brakes once again. I will not go back to Midas.

tsotsi · August 2009

Original equipment brake pads are available from suppliers who have internet websites. I got a whole set -- fronts and rears -- for a little over $100. If people are getting more than 60,000 from the original pads, why change to a different brand?

steves8 · August 2009

I have 70k on my 05 highlander and haven't changed pads. I have driven a Camry and an Avalon to 95k and 105k before changing pads. Almost entirely suburban driving.

Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles