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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • steves8steves8 Member Posts: 11
    I will sell you my 2005 with the tow package. 3rd row seat, 70k miles, very nice. I have never towed anything with it, but have installed the Toyota hitch, only used for carrying bicycles.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Hmmmmm, quite surprising as I have an 04 HL with just a 4 cyl. that has the tow package. Why not just go for the 4-Runner?
  • worthfloridaworthflorida Member Posts: 23
    Most tow packages, especially on car base vehicles only referred to a few items. A wiring harness, larger alternator, an outboard transmission cooler and maybe a factor installed hitch (cars only). Larger radiators were added at one time but not any longer since all car base vehicles have dual fans & a larger radiator for the AC. Today, almost all trucks and cars have outboard transmission radiator cooler, power steering cooler and the largest alternator available.

    So look at the tow ratings for the Highlander and it will tow, you'll just need to add a hitch and wire. A two packages for a truck frame vehicle is a different story.
  • aheideraheider Member Posts: 2
    I took my 2004 Highlander in to the dealer to have them check why I kept smelling coolant for the last two days. Within 1 hour after dropping my car off I was called to tell me that a bolt stripped from the cylinder head and that I would need to replace the motor ($6500). I was then proceeded to be told that they had seen this a couple of times before but they could not repair it without replacing the engine. They also explained the reason for the problem was that the engine was made of aluminum and the bolts were metal and after a period of time the metal would wear out the aluminum. I quickly pulled my car out of there and took it to my mechanic who went on to re-thread the engine and put everything back together. Just to be safe I had them redo all 10 bolts. Has anyone had a similar problem?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Stealing Dealers...??

    Of course, SOP.....!!
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Just curious, what engine do you have, 4 or 6 cyl? It sounds like your dealer had a boat payment coming due.
  • alotawattsalotawatts Member Posts: 44
    Coolant leaks/ Head bolts is a known problem on some older 4 cyl engines.
    Lots of info via Google
  • webgoodwebgood Member Posts: 95
    I smell a bag of manure more than I smell coolant here...time for a second opinion! Regards, BGood
  • aheideraheider Member Posts: 2
    I have a 4 cylinder. The thing that gets me is if they are aware that the steel bolts will strip the aluminum part of the engine why do the mfg keep making them. I know stupid question!
  • retropiaretropia Member Posts: 41
    My 2001 6-cylinder had a coolant leak, but it wasn't from a stripped bolt from the cylinder head. I traced it to a small metal plate on the front of the engine, just under the exhaust manifold, and opposite the back of the radiator. The plate is held on by two bolts, and is designed to be removed if you want to install a dealer-available block heater.

    I removed the two bolts, pried off the plate, cleaned off the remaining rubber gasket (it was thin and had worn out), applied a new bead of high-temp silicone sealant, reattached the plate and that stopped the coolant leak.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    I have always had the dealer change the oil on my wife's Highlander. Haven't done my own oil changes in 5+ years. One dealer is up to almost $40 but it's done in 45 min. The other dealer takes "walk in" oil changes and only charges $16 but the last time I went, it was over 2 hrs before they finished (they told me 1 hr to 1:15 when I dropped it off). The cheaper one also uses a NAPA filter instead of Toyota brand. I won't go to a "quickie" oil change place.

    Thinking about doing it myself next time but I'm concerned about access to the filter. It's under the exhaust manifold heat shield and there's not much room to reach in there. Would like to hear from anyone who's done an oil change on the 3L or 3.3L engine about how difficult it is to remove the oil filter.
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    It's pretty easy if you take out the bolts that hold the plastic panel just under the front of the radiator. Reaching the filter then is simple. I HAVE done it from the top (when the engine is cool) but reverted to removing that panel because it's just easier.

    Phil
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    Got a $13 oil change yesterday in 45 min from the dealer that had previously taken 2 hrs. I don't think I can even buy the oil and a filter for $13 so I guess I won't bother with the DIY approach at this time.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    At that price you can be sure you got re-refined engine oil, maybe even locally done...paper coffee filters.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Since oil doesn't "wear out", what's wrong with recycling it with new additives?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Nothing....but without "branding" how do you really know what you're getting..??

    Simple re-refining or re-refining with the "proper" additives...??

    Or even the "coffee filter" method..??
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Nothing....but without "branding" how do you really know what you're getting..??

    Get an oil analysis done. :shades:

    Filters are cheap, and even Frams seem to be getting better reviews these day. In bulk, they're probably only a couple of bucks for a quick lube place or dealer.

    I still do my own, but I'd be hard pressed to get the oil and filter for $13 without searching out a sale.
  • transitmantransitman Member Posts: 1
    My highlander is using 1 litre of oil to 700miles and only at highway speeds. The dealership pulled off the valve cover and said there is no sludge build up, they suggested we replace the valve covers (which have the PVC system incorporated into the cover). Their tech says this could solve the problem.
    Has anyone had this done and what was the result after the repair???
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..get an oil analysis done.."

    Probably cheaper to just buy Mobil 1.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    Heading into the 6th winter on our 2004 Higlander V6. No indication of any problems but the Consumer Reports I just got had an article on batteries which got me wondering. How many Highlander owners have replaced their batteries and did you it because it failed or because it was old and you didn't want to take a chance?
  • bikeman3bikeman3 Member Posts: 85
    You're on borrrowed time. My 2003 failed almost 2 yrs ago. went to autozone, and was in and out in a jiffy.
  • retropiaretropia Member Posts: 41
    Still on my original battery with my 2001 V6. It can sit for a couple of weeks without being driven and fires right up.
  • steves8steves8 Member Posts: 11
    I keep adding water throughout the life of the battery when needed, so Toyota OEM batteries last about one year beyond their number of months specified on the battery.
  • wshflwshfl Member Posts: 24
    My '04 Toyota Highlander V6 AWD has been diagnosed with bad rear wheel bearings, after having developed a pronounced noise around the rear wheels. What I want to know is: Is this a common occurence? Does Toyota have a recall or anything on this? And is the $1600.00 the dealership has quoted me to replace the bearings a typical charge for this service?
    I would appreciate any responses on these questions. Thank You.
  • worthfloridaworthflorida Member Posts: 23
    I'm not familiar with AWD models but it is rare that any wheel bearing on any car would go bad in this day and age. At one time, maybe thirty years ago it was a not unusual. What I think you're up against is the bearing it self cannot be changed but the entire assembly by the dealership. More money is replacing parts than fixing things. Go this this site and the rear axle assembly is $685 from a discounted parts dealer. I would find another shop and get another opinion. I'm sure the bearing is bad but maybe the bearing itself cannot be bought.

    https://www.toyotapartscenter.net/toyotahighlanderparts.html
    put in this key word " Axle assy Back "
  • gigi48gigi48 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Highlander. Recently I've noticed a rumbling noise, sounds like it's coming from the rear and only makes the noise while driving. Any suggestions?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    IMO your dealer is working a SCAM...!

    First, wheel bearing failure is quite rare and is often precipitated by a floating caliper not floating or a stuck caliper piston. Both failed at the same time, catastrophic odds against that.

    A too tight e-brake cable, e-brake being slightly applied ALL the time, will often get you a lot of rear noise.
  • alotawattsalotawatts Member Posts: 44
    Don't most cars and trucks have the PCV valve 'incorporated' into the valve cover(s)
    ? I cannot understand replacing valve covers especially if it is not sludged !
    Ask for just a PCV valve .......standard maintenance.
  • alotawattsalotawatts Member Posts: 44
    IMO your dealer is working a SCAM...!

    First, wheel bearing failure is quite rare

    Maybe not !

    http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Is_a_bad_right_wheel_bearing_on_a_2004_Toyota_Highland- - er_common
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    I replaced the original on my 2001 V6 in Virginia this year. It just quit. I thought 8 years was pretty amazing. I now have an Interstate which I doubt will go as long.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Wiki:

    Passenger side rear wheel bearing ONLY plus over 100,000 miles.

    No correlation.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    For my first 50 years of driving, car ownership, I only replaced batteries after they had failed, definitively FAILED.

    No more. Nowadays with all of the computers and various electronic control components on board it is now too probable that during the "beginning to fail", later period of battery life, the marginal voltage will/might result in component failure.

    So, for me, any indication, even slight indication, of my battery entering its life's final phase and it get retired.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Interesting and it does seem to more common to read about electrical problems around the forums "cured" by a new battery. Maybe we'll see more secondary battery applications to provide more consistent standby juice to the electrical components.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    I guess after 5 1/2 years, the OE battery doesn't owe me anything. I'd rather replace it prematurely than take a chance on it failing somewhere that would require a tow. Hadn't even thought about the possible effects of a weak battery on all the electronics but that's a good point.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    At that price you can be sure you got re-refined engine oil, maybe even locally done...paper coffee filters.

    You think a Toyota dealer would use re-refined oil? I know they use NAPA filters instead of Toyota brand but I can't imagine they would use "used" oil since they have a warranty to protect.
  • mrs1964mrs1964 Member Posts: 8
    I replaced my 2001 original battery this month with a WalMart Evermaxx South. The cost was about $75 and the battery got a fairly high rating in consumer reports.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    I plan to go with the Evermaxx North.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    You're assuming something detrimental would happen if re-refined oil were to be used. I wouldn't.

    The problem lies in the customer not being informed.
  • herzogtum71herzogtum71 Member Posts: 470
    I have an '04 4-cylinder. Changing transmission fluid in a general maintenance brochure from my dealer is recommended every 30,000 miles. What does the owner's manual say?
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    What does the owner's manual say?

    I too have an 04 4 cyl HL, and the owner's manual says nothing about changing the transmission oil, ever, quite surprising IMO.

    Anyone know how easy this is to DIY?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    It is easy to drain and change the ATF. Put a drain pan under car, remove the drain plug and let the old ATF drain out. This will drain about 1/3 of the ATF out of the transmission. Start the engine and let idle for not more than 1 minute, this will help pump some of the old ATF out of the torque converter, into the pan and out the drain.After you have drained all you can, put the drain plug back in tight. You have drained about 1/2 the fluid out of the transmission. Pour in 3 quarts of new ATF through the filler tube using a long skinny funnel. Start the engine, and check the ATF level, slowly add fluid until it reaches the full mark with engine running, parked on a level surface. Since this service changes 1/2 the fluid, I would suggest that you do this service every 30,000 miles or every 2 years, whichever comes first. This will prevent the ATF from becoming old and sludged.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Not to very surprising given the dealer's need to continue to pay his kids college tuition, even in a recession.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Not to very surprising given the dealer's need to continue to pay his kids college tuition, even in a recession.

    I'll play devil's advocate here, why would I want or need to change the transmission fluid when the owner's manual does not say so. Tranny fluid does not break down like engine oil does, and I have never heard of Toyotas having transmission issues.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "....Why would I want or need..."

    A bit of a long story...

    At about 40,000 miles the ATF in my '01 F/awd RX300 appeared dirty, brownish, and smelled burned, the smell of a 1/4 watt resistor just after it "encounters" 10 watts.

    I may or may not have contacted my dealer at that point but I have records indicating that I contacted Lexus via email. The response I got from corporate said that I should contact the dealer for further information/advice.

    Yeah, sure, my dealer even composed and published their own scheduled maintainance document. You can guess, I'm sure, just how much more extension was the requirement in the dealer's document vs the factory owners manual.

    My '01 RX300's owners manual made no mention of ATF scheduled maintainance one way or the other.

    But I went ahead an asked the dealer, who said...

    The ATF needed to be flushed and refilled at least every 15,000 miles.

    What, WHAT..??!!

    But then Lexus corporate confirmed the dealers statement.

    Why..??

    A design change was made in the process of upgrading the Camry transaxle to make it robust enough for the RX300 SUV. As it turned out there was an unforeseen design flaw in the new transaxle design.

    Google for:

    wwest abolition hesitation -dfg

    Toyota and Lexus do not wish to acknowledge the design flaw. If the information to change the ATF as often as needed came from the corporate level that would be an implicit admission that the design is flawed. A form of the Japanese "heads-down" culture.

    So, you should at least check the condition of your ATF at each and every oil/filter change.

    The design flaw was introduced in about '98, had spread to the entire Toyota and Lexus FWD and F/awd fleet by 2003, and remains to be a significant problem even today. Not to say Toyota and Lexus have not tried several fixes in the interim. DBW adoption being the most successful of those, but then that "fix" brought with it yet another set of problems.
  • webgoodwebgood Member Posts: 95
    I have an '04 V6 AWD. The Scheduled Maintenance Guide has it at 60,000 mi or 72 months (and again @ 120,000 or 144 mos) under "Additonal Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions-TOWING"...'Replace transmission fluid or oil'. If I were you, I wouldn't mess with it. Regards, BGood
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    So, you should at least check the condition of your ATF at each and every oil/filter change.

    I double checked the owner's manual and it does say to inspect the tranny fluid every 30K miles/36 mos, and if towing, to replace it every 60K miles/72 mos.

    I check all the fluids and tire pressure at least monthly so I should be good as long as I see the tranny fluid is bright pink.
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    As it pertains to the steering column "clunk", does it tend to get worse or is just an annoying thing to deal with. I have an 04 with a subtle clunk that sounds and feels to be coming from the steering knuckle and I am out of warranty. I can deal with it as long as it doesn't get any worse...Thanks, Ryan
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    can you grease it?
    noise may be the intermediate shaft- from column to rack
  • davidc4607davidc4607 Member Posts: 4
    My 2004 highlander battery seems to be ok. Did you look into the circle to see any colors? That should indicate what might be left on the battery life.
  • edhedh Member Posts: 246
    never had any colors from day one, died in oct 09 at 55000 miles
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