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Comments
I hope it does! It's an easy replacement, a $6 part, 15 minutes. It's in the rear head cover (that's what Toyota calls it - we call it a valve cover) on the passenger side, takes a 19mm wrench. Not much room to move, but enough. The spring clamp moves with finger pressure, you might need a screwdriver to loosen the hose.
I haven't done any highway miles since I replaced mine, we'll see.
http://www.facebook.com/margerald?v=app_2347471856#!/note.php?note_id=3911949310- 79
I'll let everyone know after that trip.
I did read 4875, and was happy to see it.
Jonas
Many messages on the web suspected it was caused by a hose knocked off. I found a loose hose from the case of air filter.
The rubber hose (about 1/2 inch wide and and a foot long), which comes out of the air filter case at the top of the driver-windshield direction (right below many wire-looking tubes), is connected to nothing.
And there is an upward metal tube, located right below the rubber hose, with an upward opening.
I think I should connect the free rubber hose to the metal tube by covering the metal tube with the rubber hose.
Am I doing the right thing?
Thanks a lot.
If you want the CEL to go away faster, disconnect the battery for a few minutes then reconnect.
I usually pencil down the station numbers in the radio memory rather than have to figure them all out again.
Phil
My only concern is should i they machine the rotors wouldn't that damage the pads quicker meaning I wouldn't get 60k miles off of them as I did originally?
Is it a better idea to replace pads/rotors at the same time vs replacing the pads again at another 30k miles because the machined rotors are damaging them?
Is there anywhere someone could recommend that I go to get a free estimate because maybe the dealer is taking me for a ride....but maybe not..
Thanks
Anyway, you should not have to turn the rotors. I have never had my rotors turned on any of my previous 4 Toyotas, nor on my -03 Highlander that currently has 75K on it.
I'd definitely call BS on your dealer unless he's willing to pull the wheels and lets you feel the rotors yourself. Minor differences (ridges etc) don't need to be machined flat. However, if there is quite a bit of difference, you be the judge, between parts of the rotors, then yes, I'd have those turned, but, I cannot see why the rotors would have large differences (ridges) in them.
Keep us posted on your findings.
Curious that the rear wore more than the front, that's unusual.
There's a long exchange about surfacing rotors on this forum somewhere.
Rarely is there a need to surface rotors, usually only if you've let the pads wear to metal and the rotors are badly gouged.
Rotors have a minimum acceptable thickness, below which they can't be turned again. With normal wear and no resurfacing, you'll probably never reach that limit.
If you feel at all inclined to do your own work, these are the easiest pads to change of any car I've ever done.
If you are not getting an uneven feeling on the brake pedal, indicating that the rotors are warped, and if the rotors do not have very deep scoring you probably don't need to replace them. Dealers make more money when they resurface or replace rotors and they also can argue that brakes are so important, everything should be absolutely pristine.
Car company engineers and technical writers for car magazines normally say it is fine to just clean and lube everything and stick in new pads, leaving the original rotors, for the first pad change . . . assuming the rotors are not totally trashed.
I normally stick with original equipment pads. You know how well they work and any other brand may be noisier or feel different. Of course they could be better, but I think Toyota designs good vehicles and brake pads are part of that design.
So I am safe in waiting for the sensors to come on and not warping the rotors?
Once you hear the warning tone from a brake sensor you have a few thousand miles to replace the pads. Wait too long and you may damage something. One millimeter doesn't sound like much until you realize that the pads start out life at about six millimeters and last for more than 50,000 miles.
Toyotas have good brakes and there aren't many surprises. A little common sense goes a long way. Dealers naturally want to make money by encouraging customers to change brake pads and rotors before really necessary. It obviously is not smart to ignore any kind of warning sign -- the brake wear sensors are there for a purpose.
90%+ of the time, a rotor doesn't need to be resurfaced (turned). Also, I don't think you're in any imminent danger with your brakes. Find another Toyota dealer, if that's not possible find a good reliable independent garage and get their opioion.
Yes, use genuine OEM Toyota pads. I worked for Toyota for 11 years, and there is definitely a difference in el cheapo pads from some of the big box stores, and the Toyota pads. I can't speak for other OEM brands as I have no experience with them.
Let us know how things go for you. keep asking questions if you need to.
kbb.com says I could get $18,500 for mine on a private party sale and around $16k for a dealer trade in. The Corolla I am looking at is $20k.
I'm saying if you want better gas mileage and really don't need the highlander, go real economy in the Prius.
Good luck.
Check it all out. Purchase price is just the start of buying a car. The Prius cost more but does more for the wallet and the environment.
Think about it. If you're going to scale back, I'd never hesitate to get the Prius over the Corolla.
I replace the pads myself and always wait for a warning from a sensor. So far I have never had to do anything with the rotors after the first set of pads. There is not a single answer for everybody -- it depends on how how much you value the convenience of knowing your brakes are not going to need work in the near future.
The reason I got interested in this whole brake wear issue is that the service adviser at the Toyota dealer in Delray Beach Florida told me that my brake pads were almost "metal to metal" when my Highlander had its 40,000 mile service. I checked and saw that he was lying. At the 45,000 serve another adviser told me my brakes were nearing the point of needing work, but were still okay (same brakes that were metal to metal 5,000 miles earlier). At the 50,000 mile service I was told that my brakes were so badly worn it wasn't safe for me to drive home and was really pressured me to get the brakes replaced. I was also told that my rear rotors were totally worn out and needed replacing. More lies. I will be going in for my 55,000 mile service next month and wonder what I will be told.
During all of these warning I was told that my 2005 Highlander does not have brake wear sensors -- another lie. Okay, I can look out for myself, but what about people who don't know about cars and can't afford to get a brake job done 15 or 20 thousand miles before it is needed. Several times I have seen women with children crying while waiting in the line to pay the cashier . . . wonder how much money the dealer cheated them out of.
I replace the pads myself and always wait for a warning from a sensor. So far I have never had to do anything with the rotors after the first set of pads. There is not a single answer for everybody -- it depends on how how much you value the convenience of knowing your brakes are not going to need work in the near future.
The reason I got interested in this whole brake wear issue is that the service adviser at the Toyota dealer in Delray Beach Florida told me that my brake pads were almost "metal to metal" when my Highlander had its 40,000 mile service. I checked and saw that he was lying. At the 45,000 serve another adviser told me my brakes were nearing the point of needing work, but were still okay (same brakes that were metal to metal 5,000 miles earlier). At the 50,000 mile service I was told that my brakes were so badly worn it wasn't safe for me to drive home and was really pressured me to get the brakes replaced. I was also told that my rear rotors were totally worn out and needed replacing. More lies. I will be going in for my 55,000 mile service next month and wonder what I will be told.
During all of these warning I was told that my 2005 Highlander does not have brake wear sensors -- another lie. Okay, I can look out for myself, but what about people who don't know about cars and can't afford to get a brake job done 15 or 20 thousand miles before it is needed. Several times I have seen women with children crying while waiting in the line to pay the cashier . . . wonder how much money the dealer cheated them out of.
You should be able to see and feel the grooves in the rotors through the wheels. It is not so much a matter of how many grooves as how deep they are. The new pads will wear to the shape of the grooves unless they are incredibly deep. In my experience dealers will always recommend resurfacing or replacing rotors. I have never actually seen rotors in a fairly new car -- less than 100,000 miles -- that needed replacing. I'm talking about street cars, not racers.
At that point I will tell him to resurface them or not. I don't do heavy braking which is why I got 60k miles out of them so that's a good sign. When the sensors come on how many mikes do I have left before being in trouble generally? I would rather just change them out and be safe, but what's your thought on it?
Change the pads within a week or a couple hundred miles when you start hearing the wear pad sensor. It will sound like a bird chirping.
Do you have any kind of steering wheel vibrations when braking? If so, tell him to turn the rotors. If not, insist that they leave them alone.
My 04 HL has 58K miles, and that's exactly what I'm doing.
I have slight vibration but its barely noticeable.
i have 2mm in the back pads and 3mm on the front....