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Comments
I guess your quote is right on. Good luck.
Thanks again.
Yes.
Disable the VSC/trac system by disconnecting the MAF/IAT module while the engine is idling. The engine will probably die, reconnect the module, restart the engine and now you will have a CEL & VSC/Trac diagnostic indication for a few drive cycles.
If the sound continues during that period it is NOT the VSC/Trac ECU.
VSC/Trac = anti-skid.
thanks, rr70
Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try and see what happens. One thing I forgot to mention and was wondering if it would make a difference. None of the dash warning lights for the ABS appear to come on when this occurs.
How to
Turns out that the cross-bars cannot be removed easily. Better if the dealer removes it.
I don't intend them use them and if I do, I'd like to use the Thule brand instead.
Let me know what you think.
Thanks.
Have you ever used the Navigation bypass to allow for DEST input by passenger while the vehicle is moving?
Phil
The bolts that hold them in place can be removed easily and quickly. I learned this from other HL owners that have had theirs stolen, and when I moved my bars back I replaced those stock bolts (that are made to turn by hand) with regular bolts that'd take a wrench. I still have the stock ones should I ever need them.
Phil
Drove 2 hours through driving rain a couple of days ago and just discovered carpet in front is saturated on both sides again.
Anyone have experience with this before I send it to Toyota to tear my car a part looking for the source??
Thanks in advance.
Usual reason for this is water overflowing from the air intake area. The inlet grill between the windscreen and bonnet can accumulate dirt and fine leaves which clog the drains in this area. Water that should normally drain through these outlets then enters the care through the passages intended for air flow.
If you can get under the car, there should be a small rubber hose on each side, draining down from the chamber. If you have a compressed air hose, you can jet this backward and clear the lines. Alliteratively you can make up a small hose (I made one from 4mm irrigation hose connected to a hose fitting) and feed this up with a water jet to flush out the line.
As routine maintenance, make sure the grill between the bonnet and windscreen is kept clear of leaf litter, especially if you regularly park under trees.
Cheers
Graham
new TRUStart battery. How are these batteries?
You may find the easiest way is to get a small dab of blutac and push it between the rattling parts. It only need so be a tiny bit.
Cheers
Graham
On the other hand, I was sure I had a front wheel bearing going out because of a loud howling noise coming from the front end. Fortunately, I took the car to a private mechanic who took the time to put the Highlander on a lift and spin the front wheels a various speeds -- a method he said would determine whether it was a bearing or not. Turned out the bearings were fine, but Yokohama tires with quite a lot of tread left had become incredibly loud. It seems that Highlanders don't do a very good job of isolating drivers from tire noise. I wonder if all 7 of the wheel bearings that were replaced on your car were really bad.
So since my oil consumption is a lot better I'm sticking with the 5W30 Mobil 1 High Mileage. I'm not sure which was the major contributor, switch from 0W20 to 5W30, switch to Mobil 1 High Mileage or the PCV valve.
by the way, i have 113000 and no repairs, other than the rear windows don't work. no unusual oil usage. changed oil and fillter every 3k miles or 3 month since new. thanks.rr70
To add to 4964, I have taken numerous 1000+ mile round trips since replacing the PCV valve and have experienced no oil consumption between oil changes.
The PCV valve is in the back on the top on the left as you look from front to back. I had the dealer do it and it was not too expensive. Not sure if you can get it at a parts store.
thanks.
WI
regards,
kyfdx
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Did you solve the leak problem? Was the leak from the rear tail light assembly?
How did you stop the rear tail light from leaking...........did you use silicone around the tail light?
Did the tail light need some sort of gasket?
I have a tail light that clouds up with condensation inside the see through plastic. I also see water drops inside when I remove the bulb access cover in the rear compartment.
My 2006 Toyota highlander leaks water. I get pools of water in the back seat floor boards.
I suspect the water may be entering thru the rear tail light assembly because condensation forms inside the tail lights.
HOW DO I STOP THE WATER FROM ENTERING THE TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY?
Does it need some type of gasket?
Should I seal around the edges of the tail light casing on the outside of the car with silicone?
Any advice would be helpfull.
From grw
I do not know if the dealers are recommending changes to keep up with daily sales goals. One time at 37K they recommended to change the battery. I said; do not have money this time. I will change it for the next service. And they never mentioned it after that. Now at 57,500
Before taking the lense off, I'd also make sure the mounting nuts are tight. If loose, allowing a gap between the lense and taillight housing, that would also allow water to enter.
Perhaps the later model Highlanders wear through pads faster?
I was gonna get mine online from that midwest Toyota dealer and read many reviews. But then (as I probably said) my local dealer matched their price and for another couple of hundred, gave me all my money back (including that couple of hundred) when I hadn't used the warranty by the time it expired.
The main "catch" was the short time limit to apply for the refund, and you also had to prove you still owned the car.
A worry that wasn't warranted: what if I needed a $900 warranty repair 6 months before I would get all my warranty money back? Pay it and gamble there'd be no more problems or let warranty pay and lose the 2 grand refund?
Phil