Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I did all service at the dealer. They never mentioned to me about changing this. Their next recommendation is timing belt package. If you are not towing you really don’t need to change it. An excellent time to change gear oil is when the differential has to be drained for axle service.
As in mould/mildew..?
Microbes BREED downstream of the filter, mostly on the DAMP surfaces of the A/C evaporator. No good solution other than disabling the A/C except for actual cooling needs/requirements. Mine remains disabled throughout the wintertime months.
I have searched this forum on the re-torque issue and when it's mentioned, the strand goes off into something else so I never found an answer.
The owner's manual lists having this done every 15,000 miles and I don't think I've ever had it done. Usually the dealer recommends a plethora of things to be done when you take the car in for an oil change but has never mentioned this item. (I check the manual and usually ask for what I want rather than asking for a "check up" but somehow I've kept not addressing this item.)
So has anyone had this done on a regular basis? Should I get it done this oil change?
"change limited slip differential oil, if equipped" is listed as an item to be done at 60,000.
How would I know if I'm equipped with this item and if so, what do you know about having this replaced? Something I should do as part of maintenance schedule at each 60,0000 miles?
This is not what you want to hear but the maintenance schedule defined by the manufacturer is accurate. Car makers genuinely detail the required maintenance and inspection points to minimise breakdowns.
That is why modern cars are so comparatively trouble free. This is especially the case for Toyotas which are famously reliable, if maintained properly.
That is not to say that there will not be occasional breakdowns, particularly on high mileage vehicles. However, using the manufacturer's recommended maintenance and inspection schedule is the optimal method for minimising long term cost.
And just in case you are doubtful, understand that this is the wallet talking; I am a CPA and am familiar with overall Total Cost of Operation of many vehicles. Those which are routinely maintained in line with manufacturer's schedules are cheaper overall. That is why fleet companies insist on drivers having their vehicles maintained, by the book and prefer to use manufacturer trained service staff.
Cheers
Graham
To prevent squeal I DIY my brakes and ALWAYS chamfer the leading and trailing edges of the brake pads....these days some pads even come already chamferrred.
(from another 05 Highlander owner with +107K miles)
I have been following their recommendations for years and have never heard a hint of squeak or squeal from my brakes. As mentioned, rust makes kind of a grating sound and that is different. I would assume that the dealer mechanic either forgot to coat the pads with grease or installed some kind of funky parts.
Mine didn't, and they didn't when I replaced the pads with Toyota original equipment pads, using the brake "grease" (which is an anti-vibration, anti-noise insulating compound) per the instructions.
Just because you paid a premium, or a dealer did the work, doesn't mean they did it right.
Insist they fix it.
How long your front pads last ?
I replaced them at over 68K, see post 4367. They had 3mm friction material left, so could have gone quite a while longer, the wear limit is 1mm.
I replaced them because the VA safety inspector was giving me a hard time about them.
Front pads were replaced twice @ 25K and 50K miles.
Replaced the rear one two weeks ago @60K ;
Is there any way to find out how much pad left without taking off the wheel & caliper?
When I performed my own brake pad replacement, I went to the dealer's parts counter and purchased Toyota factory pads. I didn't have any squealing problems.
Now if you are driving in the rain and park the car, there will be a light coating of rust that develops on the rotors. That makes a slight scraping sound when you first use the brakes, but in my experience, that goes away after the third time you apply the brakes.
I can get a rough idea of how much pad is left with the wheels on, but it might be better to take the wheel off and use a flashlight. There is a warning system on each corner that makes a scraping noise when there is only a millimeter or two left.
The dealers push brake jobs because they are very profitable, and if you call them out on not being completely accurate about wear, they can always use the "better safe than sorry" excuse. They also always claim the rotors need turning or replacing even when they actually don't.
Of course some dealers may be giving you honest service so it is always better to get some help if you are not sure how to check the brakes yourself.
I typed a reply previously, but it was lost in the ether before I posted it.
Briefer one here.
I didn't notice the Trac or VSC activating, and I think I would have.
Your explanation makes sense, because I checked and cleared the code within a couple drive cycles (maybe only one), so it may have cleared itself if I hadn't. In any case, it hasn't returned, with various driving conditions and speeds since (but no snow!).
Good to know about the MAF/IAT throwing a code for only one bank lean, 'cause that seems like an easy fix.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----------
"..mountains....in the snow..."
Did you happen to notice the Trac system or VSC activating?? More than once or twice..?
On the RX or HL without DBW engine dethrottling during a trac or VSC event is accomplisheded via EFI fuel starvation. No way to close the throttle plate so the HOT oxygen sensors see PURE oxygen for brief period(s). That appears to somehow have an adverse impact on those sensors for some period after and a CEL is not altogether unusual.
Generally clears within a few drive cycles.
I have had instances of dirty MAF/IAT sensors throwing a diagnostic of only one lean bank. So I would first clean the MAF/IAT sensor elements.
Like their 30K, 60K service for $500 with discount.. Oil+filter change, Tire rotation, Transmission fluid service, Coolant service, Air filter, Cabin filter, all fluid service, re-torque drive shaft boots.. Plus so many checks I am sure with an independent mechanic I can get all these done for $250-300. I feel safe doing it with the dealer.
BTW: I learned this lesson the hard way too. If they tell you to change your brake rotors, I ask them to write on the work order the actual measurements of each rotor and intitial it. I tell them that after they've "certified" in writing the measurements, I'll make a follow up appt. later if needed. Amazingly, the measurements were fine and the language was changed from "need to change" to "a good idea to change".
Your post describes an odd phenomenon that I experienced many years ago on a Mercedes.
Brake disks are fairly soft cast and machined steel or iron and have no surface coatings (which would impede their ability to act as a brake surface. They are similar to rail-road tracks in softness and propensity to rust; take a look at a rail track which has not been used for some time and hence becomes very rusty.
When the disks are exposed to salt air, the exposed portions of the disks corrode and develop small pits in their surface. In the non exposed area under the brake pads, the metal remains bright and clear of pits. Subsequently when you apply the brakes there is a very marked grabbing on the rusted surfaces interspersed by the smooth surfaces.
Unfortunately, even a comparatively short exposure to salt can result in the surface pits extending quite deep (millimetre or more) into the metal.
In my case, the vehicle had been left un-driven for three weeks after being driven on salted roads. In that time, the deepest pits were 3mm deep. There was no prospect of recovering the disks by grinding or skimming and replacement of all four disks was necessary. I was not happy but could see the physical evidence. Indeed, pulling one wheel off, I could see where the brake pad had shielded the disk and the depth of the pits in unprotected surfaces.
I suspect that you might have seen the same phenomenon.
Cheers
Graham
Sounds like your dealer had a boat payment due.
No more... Last time recommendation was 'need new battery'.. price $189 with installation.. Battery cost $139.
Scraping? Mine squeal.
Thanks
Any ideas of what I should check or do?
I have a 2005 highlander and when I am going over 60 my car starts to sway really bad. I tap my brake and it decreases.
The dealership is saying that the rear axle carriage assembly needs to be replaced and that will cost about 1500 in just parts- I do not know if the dealership is just taking advantage of my lack of knowledge.
Does anyone have the same problem or do you know of a cheaper solution
Thanks-
Amanda
Has anyone experienced the same issue or know about a TSB for this issue? I would greatly appreciate any feedback. I am sure there must be more HL out their that rolled off the same assembly line around the same time with the same issue.
Thank you!
I hear that some had to replace the whole steering box cause thats where the popping is coming from. if they cant fix it, use the lemon law. im thinking about it.
my car was built in indiana.
I used to change oil every 3K miles. At 45K the rep said the interval was changed to 5K. From receipts I found they used 5W-30. This is the information I got from parts “ Two type of oils.. Regular and Synth. Regular need change every 2K-3K & Synth 5K-7K. He said since my HL interval is 5K, the dealer is using Synthetic. I would like to change the oil by myself. Few questions
What kind of Oil I should use? Is it okay to use conventional?
Any problem using 5W-20 instead of 5W-30?
Do the dealers change filter with every oil change? do they really change oil & filer for price of $20-25 ?
Thank You.
Plenty do.
Just be careful of the upsell and get another opinion if they find something else that needs attention "while they are in there".
Conventional oil works fine, that's what I use. There's a whole other discussion on synthetic vs. conventional oil.
Any problem using 5W-20 instead of 5W-30?
The correct weight oil should be listed in your owner's manual as well as on the cap where you put the oil in.
Do the dealers change filter with every oil change? do they really change oil & filer for price of $20-25 ?
Yes, always change the filter when you do the oil change. The most important part of the job is to make sure the gasket on the old filter does not stay stuck to the engine. You'll then get the dubious "double gasket" problem where all your oil will eventually leak out. And $20-$25 is actually a pretty good price. To get that here, I'd have to cut coupons.
I got a coupon for $20.50 with free 20 point inspection. I think the best is to go to the dealer. But only issue is their recommendations You need new tires, battery, timing belt etc.. :mad:
Is it okay to blend synthetic with regular oil? I mean I used synthetic last time and will be using regular oil. Does it harm the engine?
Oil changed at Firestone. There computer was showing 5W-20 for V6 Highlander. I insist to use 5W-30, which was on the oil cap and manual. They use Kendall Synth. Blend OTD $26 with tax after 25% off on Oil & Filter
I want to replace timing belt, trans fluid, coolant fluid and I believe the car needs brakes.
Thanks in advance,
Mirkee