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I am not sure how well the Accords are selling because the dealership near my house has five Accords parked near the street, a variety 4 and 6 cylinder, leather and no leather--they are not moving. I do not think people want a $400-500 monthly payment. The only way to get it lower is to have a BIG downpayment or a nice trade-in.
With the unfavorable lease rates it makes it a tougher sell.
Brad :lemon: :shades:
Compared to the sedans coupes never sell as well. Maybe 10-15 percent of Accords built are coupes.
Still, they are in pretty tight supply. NAVI V-6's are nearly impossible to find and they are always presold before they arrive.
HY
Just interested to know which dealer in Miami you got that price from. This past weekend I visited South Motors and their best price was $26.6k plus tax and tag, all fees are in the price. I am also looking for an EX-L V6 in white pearl though.
Thanks.
It can be helpful even on dry pavement when you need to swerve unexpectedly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSOAk7alUKE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yr0_UDCRk00&NR=1
Rock County could be 90 minutes depending on where you are in the City. Good luck would be interested to hear what you're getting for prices.
ESC or VSA is almost not needed in a FWD drive car. Why not? Almost every FWD car will understeer when driven at the limit. What is the "cure" for understeer? Simply lift off the gas - that reduces your speed (less speed = more grip) and transfers the weight of the car forward (more weight over the front wheels = more grip). Even if you lift completely off the gas the car is not likely to come around on you (oversteer).
In a top heavy vehicle (e.g. SUV) it can be a nice aid to prevent roll over. It RWD vehicles it is a must have as it takes much more skill to recover from oversteer that you normally find in a RWD car at the limit. In addition, if you start over steering in a RWD and do the FWD "simply lift off the gas" thing the odds are very good the car will snap spin when the weight transfers forward and unloads the already slipping rear tires. In a RWD car you have to counter steer ("turn into the skid") while feathering the throttle. In some cases you may have to give the car MORE gas to transfer the weight to the rear and power out of the skid. Not something that most drivers ever practice nor even know how to do.
If you want to trade cars for other reasons - better gas mileage, more room, other features AND get VSA in the bargain that would be one thing - but to trade to just get it on a FWD would not be worth it (to me). If you live where you get snow, spend the money on a spare set of steel rims and some nice snow / ice tires (I am using Michelin x-ice on my snow day car and they are super) and you can handle the slick roads much better than running all season tires in a VSA equipped car. If you don't live where you get any snow, then next tire change ditch the all season tires for some summer tread wet / dry tires and increase your grip in the rain and in the dry. All season tires do nothing well - a lot worse than snow tires in the snow and a good bit worse than summer tires in the rain and dry. Much better to spend your money on good tires than the VSA. You might also invest in a little performance driver training or even make some SOLO II runs with your local SCCA group. Get some practice driving your car at the limits.
Dennis
What did you choose? 4 or 6?
I am considering the EX-L and am trying to decide between the 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder, and if I want to get the Nav. I have 2 external on dash nav's, but I sure do like it built in.
Thoughts? are the V-6 or Nav worth the $2K+ price tag in your opinion. I sure do want them both
Of course, the V-6 will be smoother and more powerful but the 190 four has more than enough power.
As far as NAVI. Very few people actually "need" a NAVI system but they are certainly cool. The aftermarket ones don't hold a candle to Honda's factory unit.
It all boils down to what is important to you. Nobody "needs" a sunroof either.
Honda has decided to not offer traffic service as an option for the Accord.
Debating on a 2008 Accord, or a 2005 to 2006 Acura TL. Decisions Decisions.
With regard to the V6 vs. I4 issue, you might try the I4 v. v6 forum for lots of good comments. In my opinion, like the navigation issue, the 6cyl. is a luxury that virtually no one "needs." Further, there are potential "issues" with the cylinder deactivation system that are very well explored in the Accord VCM forum. Having said that, the power advantage of the 6cyl. over the I4 is enormous. You definitely get something for your money when you opt for the 6cyl. I have an I4 08 Accord EX-L and, while it certainly has adequate power, it likes to down-shift on hills and doesn't come into its own until the RPM gauge is getting up there. The V6 has considerably more low-end umph! Really, its a matter of how you drive. If you commute in your car and spend little time on the open road, I personally would think the 4cyl is the better choice. If you spend lots of time on two-lane roads at high speeds or hilly interstates, the 6cyl. might be nice. Good luck!
For a lot of people, that is a lot of money.
And you are going from a top of the line Accord to a base TL?
The new Accords aren't a whole lot different than the TL's and have better resale value down the road.
Good cars either way...
area. Is this a good price? What is the best way to get financing? Is Financing from
Honda of America competitive? Thanks for any help
Damm I hane no GOLD!
The pro's about the TL are that it will be recertified with the full warranty and the car has been in production for a year prior. It is definitely a sleek ride, and feels a bit faster over the v6 accord even though it might not actually be quicker. I also like that you can use the manual shift in the TL. The cons are that a used 2005/2006 can still easily cost between $25K to $27K with average miles. The base TL isn't truly missing anything the EX-L has so I look at the TL as a top of the line ride, like the EX-L Honda.
The pro's of the new accord are just that, it is NEW The cons are that I hate the idea of buying a first year car since there will definitely be bugs that they will find and have to work out. Anyone else worry about this?
Are you happy with your deal? That's what matters.
When people come here AFTER they have already bought their car, it's likely some spoil sport will rain on your parade and tell you how they paid less!
That's how we get the Prices Paid..
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18970+635(destination)+3%VA tax+fees=20400(OTD)
4.89% finance for 60 months through honda.
Try the thread for Accord Navigation. There are several posts regarding this issue, including my input that you may find helpful.
If it has more power than what you were driving before, the it obviously has enough power. If you are used to driving something much faster, then you may have a problem with getting used to less power.
Then you also need to decide whether a few extra mpgs will matter to you.
It doesn't matter what someone else bought since you are the one who will be driving it and buying the gas.
2008 Accord Sedan EX with auto trans,
including destination charges
Price $21,621 plus tax and license
2008 Accord Sedan LX-P with auto trans,
Including destination charges
Price $20,070 plus tax and license
Any comment? Thanks
Ask first, then if it is a good deal take it and then post your price .
Dennis
Regards,
Regards,
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it's a Honda Accord V6 2008 with Navigation Automatic Sedan.. the price you won' beleive..
it's Hardin Honda, Orange County, after some serious negotiating, we got it down to 27500 + fees and taxes
it worked out 29940 all included out of dealer. It's black on Black leather... amazing amazing car... and I got it under my own name and since I have no credit history being new here from Canada, lol somehow they manged to give it to me at 6.5% rate on 60 months. really good guys to deal with. and I bet you you can even get a better deal than mine if you are stubborn enough. but honestly thanks for everyone help and comments it gave me an idea to how much to negotiate when I'm going there.
Rule # 1 you are the boss till you say yes to their offer, so demand the most ridicules thing because it might just happen.
he said 28500 and we wrote 27250 and when he said No i can't do it, we got up to leave and somehow magically the agreed on 27500. so yes it does work.
it'll definitely update everyone how the ride is and stuff.
btw anyone knows where I can find the original accessories for cheaper? these *$#$)(#$& are a rip off when it comes to these things...
Congratulations on the new Pilot!
You can check the prices at H&A, Bernardi, and Saccucci online. I got the cargo cover for ours via a Honda dealer on fleabay - the net price for the cover and shipping was lower than the other online dealers. So you have to check around for what you want. If you want something that needs installation by a "pro" then you can use the Honda e-store for accessories. One of my local dealers has pretty reasonable prices for accessories installed, while the others are sky high. On the e-store you can pick the dealer and see the price so finding the best deal is fairly simple - but you do have to go back and start over to pick a new dealer.
Dennis
Dennis
Just something to keep in mind when comparing - just like checking insurance rates before you decide what to buy.
Dennis