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Comments
A quick call to the DMV will help clear the air. All you have to do is tell them the car you're buying, the price paid and they can get the figure for tax and reg fee's.
It's dealer doc fee's that I see that are (IMO) crazy. I have seen some posters here note that doc fee's can be as high as $499.00 in some areas. Here in Minnesota the state has capped fee's at $75.00.
I just went to a dealer yesterday and they quoted me the best thing they could do was $24,800 plus TTL. I was looking at more around 25K - 25.5K out the door. They pretty much laughed at me and said that was impossible. I'm in the NJ/NY area, do you think my offer was too low? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
Did you already ask the internet associates for a straight on-the-road quote? If all else fails try not to pay an OTR price that’s higher than the MSRP. If you are then you are most definitely paying too much.
Sale Price - 26,000
dmv fee - 136
Doc Fee - 180
6% Sale Tax - 1,560
-----------------------------
Grand Total - 27,876
EX-L for 36 months lease. (4dr/4cyl/190hp/41000 miles + No accessories)
Down payment 1000 (includes 1st month EMI + other fee)
EMI $430.00 ***Initially he agreed to 330 but said my credit score was not that good****
My credit score is 634 -- he said it's tier 3 credit score, he has to bumpup my EMI***
This is very urgent since i need to close this deal today 08/21.
Is this deal good? appriciate your openion very much.
-CV
Few days back I went with my family to purchase a Honda Accord EX-L car we had offered a price of $23,500 for a 2009 Honda Accord the sales person was Manny and Jeff. The sales person informed us he could try to $24,400 with his manager. But we wanted stick with our offer of $23,500. The manager there did not agree for the $23,500. We walk out of the Bell Honda place.
After few days we get an call from another manager call Ramirez new manager called us saying that to come down and he can make deal happen. We clear say that the last offer was $23,500 and sale person had offered us $24,400. Ramirez insists he can make the deal happen, as the difference was just $900.
On reaching there they pull out the same car but an different sale manager comes by his Name is Derek say he is head of all the sales people and say he can reduce the his offer by $200 for coming today for $23,200 and make an deal.
We accept the deal and shake hands. Ask the sale person to do the paper work, An half hour goes by as the sale person collects the insurance and the driver license information. Meantime a director walks in asks what car we are buy and comes back and says the deal is off. Saying there is a miscommunication within his team and by Derek.
The Bell Honda has no proper communication among the team members. Once an offer and deal is done by their sales manager they don’t honor what was agreed upon. There customer service is very poor and management is don’t honor the deal that was made by there manager who is in-charge of the sales.
Picked up the car earlier today. Im pretty pleased wih my purchase. The 08 coupe inventory was depleting in Michigan and a 26,000 sale price is as low as it get in Michigan. I shopped for 3months before I made my purchase.
THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR COMMENTS & ADVICE!!!!!!!
I guess I got better deal today from other dealer --- 365 EMI 1000 down. This looks way better than the one posted earlier --- 435 EMI 1000 down. Initially I had approached Honda Village, MA dealer on 8/19 and spent 2+ hours in negotiation to get them almost agreed to 300 EMI 500 down. However i could not makeup my mind so requested them to hold on to it for that night. I approached them next day but I was being treated as a new customer. Even the same sales guy (his name sergie) started negotiation all over, so spend next 1+ hour in negotiation. This time they agreed to 330 EMI and 1000 down.
Well this is not done yet.
Paid 1000$ down to complete that transaction. The finance manager took few sign and said I am all set. After signed my papers I was going through my lease agreement, found that the EMI was 579$. OHNOOO!!! When asked he said my credit score not good (634). Next round of negotiations 435 EMI 1000 down was agreed. I was so exhausted and signed the damn deal with anger/frustration; frankly I could not sleep well that night. (Weak hearted you know)
Well this is not done yet.
Next day 08/21, I approached other dealer in my area Cambridge Honda, MA and negotiated a fresh deal 365 EMI 1000 down. I have signed this deal today 8/21 and I am all set to pickup my car on 08/23. WOW!!! I am very pleased with Cambridge Honda dealer service.
P.S. Now I am still working with Honda Village to cancel my previous deal and keep hearing all the crap from them even now.
Anyone has an idea ? :confuse:
The dealership I finally purchased from just was overstocked with several hundred 2008 models and was motivated to undersell their competition. My previous experience purchasing from fleet sales had been positive, without the hassle normally associated with dealing with regular lot salesmen. So I was a little disconcerted when some of those same haggling elements crept into final sales negotiations over what I considered to be an inconsequential amount.
The internet is a powerful negotiating tool in today's car market and I was able to supply hard copy offers and counter-offers from other dealers in securing the final purchase price on my vehicle. Also, buying a clearance model in no way constitutes having to settle for less popular colors or trim levels, I found all options available in my large metropolitan area from nearly a dozen dealerships.
Out the door I bought my car for less than $400 above the original MSRP and that included tax, license, destination and advertising fees, supplemental car security system, car cover, and Honda's Pro package (the fleet manager showed me by the dealership's computer inventory that the dealer was accepting an $800 loss to make the sale). Overall I estimate that I saved over $2500 by waiting for Honda's clearance.event.
City, State they are shopping in
Tax Paid
Options added
Doc Fees
Misc Fees
Specifics are important when shopping for cars so I think everyone would appreciate some kind of general format to follow.
OTD doesn't mean anything in states that charge different rates for everything.
Thanks. This is helpful forum
Here in PA, I've done quite a bit of car shopping recently. I just bought a new minivan, am helping my folks purchase (probably) a new Accord and I'm going to pick up a used Commander within the next couple of weeks.
In all the quotes I've received in PA, the "Documentation" has always been included in the Tax, Title and License and this has always been very reasonable. $133.50 at the Dodge dealer. $143.50 at the Honda dealer. There is no seperate item for Documentation. From what I can tell, these fees are about $60 to $70 higher than what this state (PA) charges the dealer to issue a new title, plate and registration as well as record a lein, based on the DOTs fee schedule. That's perfectly acceptable to me for the dealer to make in "documentation" charges.
However... In some posts, you see the TTL or DMV fees *plus* a documentation fee of $200, $300 and $469. As far as I'm concerned, if you got a quote for $300 under invoice and paid a $469 documentation fee as well as DMV fees, then you're really at $169 over invoice.
Of course, the biggest variable is sales tax. Without that info, OTD is somewhat useless since sales tax can be quite significant at 7% in some counties in PA. If you trade in PA, you only pay tax on the net different between the value of the trade and new car purchase price so... if you trade a $15K car in on a $25K Accord, you're paying $600 to $700 less tax than somebody with no trade. An OTD post doesn't reflect this.
Long story short, yeah, I agree... OTD pricing without any supplementary information is of limited help.
Comparing prices really does not mean a hoot unless you are willing to travel across the Country to save some money.
To get the right car at the right price, I've brought cars back from VA, NC, NJ and OH over the years. Owning a capable tow vehicle and having a friend's enclosed hauler stored at my house and available for use makes that option viable. Since I've seen tax rates anywhere from 2% to 9% in different states, a 7% difference can equate to a difference of $1750 in OTD price. Knowing the tax rates or breaking out the actual price of the car is very helpful.
If I buy a car in Ohio or another state, I either trailer it back or purchase a temporary in-transit tag there to drive it back. I'll then pay the necesary PA fees at AAA to get it on the road here. The OTD price for somebody purchasing and registering it in another state is, like I said, of limited value. My OTD could vary drastically from theirs even though the price paid for the car itself is similar. Being 30 miles from the Ohio border, it's not uncommon for many PA residents in my area to include those dealers in their search. My "OTD" price for purchasing a car in another state will be substantially lower than a resident of that state. It's really the only way to compare apples to apples.
haogangno1@yahoo.com
Thank you!
I agree, I've seen this come up time and time again. It'll go on forever. To me, the sad part is... despite the wealth of information available on Edmunds.com and the collective knowledge and experience of this community, I suspect that a number of buyers only look at that out-the-door price. The dealer shows them a very competitive price on the car only to tack on a $300 documentation fee, a $200 prep fee, $250 for flaps and paint protection in addition to the state mandated tax, title and plates. I also suspect that in at least some of the deals where OTD is quoted, a trade may have been involved but not referenced. That pretty much throws everything out the window. Not only does that impact the selling price but, in PA and other states, the tax liability (not insignificant) as well.
I always make it clear to the dealer/salesman that I want to know the price of the car. I know what's reasonable and customary in terms of TTL and documentation and will expect to see that after we've agreed on the price of the car. If they try to pull some funny business, I walk away. Like I said, my recent experience has shown that, at least in PA, documentation and state fees, excluding tax, hasn't exceeded $150.
Sorry for getting off track. I was just seconding the suggestion to at least provide more info in the OTD feedback.
I've just started looking for a new car, trying to decide between the Accord and the Hyundai GLS (both base models, manual transmission). Anyway, Open Road Honda is the best price we've been quoted for an Accord so far, $18,700. Looking over the forums I've seen a bunch of prices but none for a base manual '09; comparing what we were offered to similar automatics, it seems a bit high, but in the dealership's defense, that is pre-haggling. So I guess I'm asking if anyone has a sense of what sort of price would be good for the car.
And also, if anyone wanted to weigh in on the Accord vs. the Sonata, I'd love to hear that too. Thanks!
I see this OTD thing every 30 - 90 days when I look at this forum.
I see moderators ask for people to give this info.
How much was the price of car--------------
Before tax, title, license, doc fee, temp tags, prep,tint,mud guards, exterior paint sealant, interior fabric guard, trunk mat,back up camera,interior lights, etc. If you got a bunch of that for free make a comment but leave it out of the base price.
Base price=cost of car + transportation and that is it.
I have seen dealers that have all those things as options and I am sure I left off some.
Price of car always includes transportation and nothing else.
Then by my city, county, state, and add on options I can figure the same deal at that dealer. Where I live tax varies by city and I have bought Accords with no options and some with a few. :My OTD for same car might be thousands from yours but I need the base price.
It is like going to a baseball game and telling me it cost you 400.00, well did you buy 20 hot dogs and beers. I just want the price of the ticket not the extras that is controlled by me and may vary by extremes from your extras. Your parking may have cost nothing and mine may have cost 50.00. The price of the ticket that is all that helps. What did you pay the scalper for the ticket.
This will only help if at all for maybe a day and then you will see OTD so give up anti-OTD people. I have but thought I would waste a little time.
I think people really are trying to be helpful but you have widely varying people shopping here and some are shopping payment which often will be referred by finance people as your OTD price. Some pay cash and they only care about the base plus transportation. This forum has been very helpful to me and you just have to read enough posts to sort out the base prices. Or who knows maybe it is the other way around and all the cash buyers are OTD people. Makes no difference but base price of car plus transportation seems to be the common thread that the moderators ask for in all the forums. Not me the moderators. Holler at them if you do not agree.
Just bought 2-2008 Accords. 1 LX-S Coupe and 1 4dr EX-L-4 cyl.
23700 on sedan and 20989 on LX-S Coupe which was price of car plus transportation and nothing else. St. Louis Honda Internet sales.
Great, great, great cars. 32 mpg on recent EX 4 dr. trip
Thanks
I previously had an '06 Accord EX-V6 and was looking at '08 4 cyl Accord's and Sonata's before deciding on an '08 Accord EXL V6. I looked at the Malibu too, but they were too scarce in the trim I wanted (4 cyl, 6-speed auto), therefore deals were not as good. I tested the '09 Sonata Limited, nice car, but a bit too small. One thing I was specifically looking for was easier egress in and out of the back seat. Once inside the Sonata you had plenty of room, but you almost have to contort yourself around the side bolster to get in. I had that problem in the '06 Accord and I wanted to be sure I didn't have that problem in my next car. The '08 Accord's back seat is very spacious and easy to get in and out. The Malibu's back seat was nice too, but I'm not going to pay the same price for a Malibu as the Accord, when I know the Accord's residual value will hold up better. I chose the V6 after the driving the EXL 4 cyl. There was a resonance coming from the ANC system that I didn't like. The ANC system works well in the V6 with VCM so I didn't hear it. HFS finance rates for the V6 were better too and that sealed the deal for me. :shades:
If I was to lease for 36mo 15k with first payment down it would be $369. Is this a good deal?
I don't know if it's different in your area, but here in CA, a manual EX-L 4 door simply does not exist. The only manuals I saw were bare bones LX models. I'd have loved to get a manual for my accord, but wound up with the v6 EXL... I wish honda would give the sedan V6 the six speed manual like they did in prior years....That was the sweet sleeper set-up...
When the dealers are fully stocked with 2009's in late September or October do you think they will selling them for close to invoice price?
If you email everyone in Minnesota, you'll find the one dealer in Minnesota that has on on hand. Good luck and happy shopping