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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • ken3409welchken3409welch Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Not sure if we're going to pull the trigger on one of these. But, thought I'd share the effort made on 2010 Accord EX-L Navi-V6 sedan pricing in central NC. I used that overstock site that someone suggested earlier as a starting point to work downwards.

    Got 6 quotes within a few hundred dollars of each other on the vehicle. These are out the door pricing (OTD). Five dealerships are in North Carolina, one out of state at $700 lower than everyone else.

    $28,533.32
    $27,368.39
    $28,263.46 (includes mud guards, wheel locks, trunk protector)
    $28,002.87
    $28,178.50
    $28,126.47 (includes 3 free oil changes and tire rotations)

    One that sticks out ($27,368.39) is a dealer in Virginia that is about 4 hours away from me.

    To get back to vehicle cost, example 1 above: $28,126.47 - $398 (doc fee) - $74.00 (plates), divide by 1.03 (3% NC sales tax) to arrive at $26,848.00 as a sales price.

    Still working on specifics of trade through CarMax who seems to be giving the best trade in value for my vehicle. Trying to wrap this up by the weekend. E-mailing these guys seems to be the way to go. All research and pricing done within 3-4 days on all of these.

    Good Luck.
  • alookmanalookman Member Posts: 141
    edited May 2010
    yes, bargain hard but use website of kelly blue book price guide and know what is trade in value plus few hundred. Honda dealers will throw in extended warranty such as powertrain covered for 100k and 12k for bumper to bumper- 4 cylinder is safe bet!
  • skhuskyskhusky Member Posts: 2
    2010 EX Coupe, Belize Blue, 5SP Man, Black cloth interior, no options (buying wheel locks, etc. after online) Selling price was $21,298.00, Dox charges $299, CT registration (new plates) $165.00. Bought in Connecticut
  • deadsignsdeadsigns Member Posts: 10
    edited May 2010
    good job in doing your research! I'm glad we're able to help each other out. Rim locks are cheap so I'm sure you could just ask for them and they'll probably give it to you. A lot of dealers keep them on the cars they have in stock and will be too lazy to take them off. I'm picking up my car tomorow and I asked for rim locks.(70 dollar value BS) if not you could pick it up for like 30 bux. if i was a dealer i wouldn't let sonething that i get less than 30 bux sink a deal.
  • shaymasdaddy06shaymasdaddy06 Member Posts: 17
    edited May 2010
    It listed at $31,611 (including protection pkg, tint, and moonroof visor) but paid $26,289 plus TT&L (discount of $5,322). They also gave me $14K for my 2008 Civic EX-L sedan trade-in which is excellent according to KBB.com. I had a excellent experience working with the internet sales staff of Bankston Honda in Lewisville, TX. They don't put alot of dealer adds on their cars and were able to remove that dreaded pin stripe with no problem. I highly recommend them.
  • accordguy0325accordguy0325 Member Posts: 169
    Congrats on 2010 V6 coupe - you'll love the V6 power and smoothness. It is a pure pleasure to drive, though I am biased as I have an 09 EXL-V6 coupe.

    What color did you get ? Mine is Crystal black pearl.
  • deadsignsdeadsigns Member Posts: 10
    wish I could get a coupe, instead picked up the exl v6 sedan today with wheel locks. $24075+710destination +8.875%tax +249 doc fee +310 new plates and registration. came out to about $27550
  • vikramgvikramg Member Posts: 13
    I got a quote for $17161 + tags + tax + $385 processing fee from a northern VA dealer. Price includes freight charge. Is this a good deal? Can I go any lower? Perhaps the $385 processing fees?
  • blueszbluesz Member Posts: 11
    Just bought a 2010 Honda Accord LX, AT for OTD 19800

    sales tax is 6.5%. I think my price is OK, but it is very difficult to negotiate with the dealer for a lower price.
  • joer2001joer2001 Member Posts: 32
    Wow,
    4 cyl, Automatic trans?, cloth LX for only $17,161. + 385. processing would be awesome! Post the dealer and salesman!
  • allan0008allan0008 Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    i'd like to know if im getting a good deal or not. I live in los angeles,ca. I haven't visited the car dealership, just done things over email correspondence etc.

    price they are giving me is about 17600 for a new honda accord lx w/o extra fees/taxes configured etc. Is that a good starting point or does it mean nothign? I had another offer where the price was 17900 , including destination charge. So I am assuming that everything might cost around $20150 etc, is that a good deal? I am okay w/ that if it ends up that way, or is it bec i live in los angeles county that its impossible to get that price? First time car buyer here so pardon my ignorance in advance...
  • blueszbluesz Member Posts: 11
    This seems to be the lowest price I've seen for 2010 Accord LX AT.
  • nedlyjnedlyj Member Posts: 89
    Ah, the old "leasing is dumb" discussion. Sale vs Lease, Mac vs PC - it's about the same level of argument.

    If you don't understand the "value" of leasing, or its "value" isn't truly a value for you, then obviously leasing isn't for you. No big deal. But what's the need for the trash talk? There are many people for whom leasing makes perfect sense - including financial sense.

    Did you ever have a car require a $3000 repair after it went out of warranty - while you still have time left on your loan? Can't pay the loan and afford to fix the car? Leasing can look pretty good when that happens.

    Ever need a car and know that in 3 years your car needs are going to be very different than today? Leasing can fit that nicely. Always want the peace of mind that being under warranty provides (which is a big value to a lot of people)? Leasing can provide that. Under a tight monthly budget, but want the security of a new car (warranty, newest safety features, etc.)? Leasing can provide that too.

    If none of this matters to you, then leasing isn't meant for *you* - but that doesn't make it wrong for others. To say leasing is bad "no matter what" is simply not true.
  • joer2001joer2001 Member Posts: 32
    No it is not Mac vs. PC, or Ford vs. Chevy. Totally beg to differ.

    Leasing cannot be mathematically shown as having value. If you amortize the buy cost, over three years, vs. the lease cost, you have a significantly higher cost leasing. It is not about anything else.
    Even if your car needs were to change, buying outweighs leasing in resale value. (residual value vs. used car value)
    You can give me any lease, and I can prove this.
    I am not trash-talking, I am talking pure mathematics.

    I stand by my statement:
    "Do the lease math, figure the cost (payment amount X number of months plus residual) never as good as financing. never.

    Leasing is mathematically dis-advantageous for anyone, period. Except dealerships! (they do very well leasing!)

    Thanks for the response, I appreciate it, and welcome you proving me wrong.

    So far the arguments you put forth only show a lower payment benefit, but overall, it results in a higher cost.
    Math is just numbers, no emotion required.
  • joer2001joer2001 Member Posts: 32
    I am sorry.
    Value to me is equated to money, perhaps, you have a different definition of value?

    I try to remain emotionless when purchasing anything that is primarily guaranteed to go down in value.
    Websters dictionary defines value: The monetary worth of something.

    I am purely talking mathematics, not a "perception", or a feeling, the minor difference in payment vs leasing, is HUGE at the end of the day.

    So if you would like me to prove it, give me any lease, and I will.

    thanks!

    Joe
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 237,061
    ..specifically... Honda Accord: Prices Paid..

    General lease vs. buy discussions go somewhere else.... anywhere else...

    Thanks!

    Edmunds Price Checker
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    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • alansufialansufi Member Posts: 18
    where are you from?
  • carsalesman2carsalesman2 Member Posts: 22
    Customer trades his cars every 3 years...leasing is much better.

    Example - No money buy v. No money down lease.

    Payment will be about $100 less on the lease compared to a 60 month buy. You saved $3600 in 3 years. I promise you will not have $3600 equity in your car if you bought it.

    If you keep your cars a long time go ahead and buy it. If you like to trade, lease.
  • joer2001joer2001 Member Posts: 32
    I just read your name...
    Car salesman...

    That could rest my case, but I will still prove mathmatically that you are wrong, (sorry) you just are.
    1rst off rarely will the dealership allow you to "buy" your lease based on anything except MSRP, so right there you are buying a car for more than you have too.
    2cnd if your credit is good enough to lease, you can do no money down on your purchase.

    3600.00 savings in three years, is wrong again, you have -0- equity at the end of lease.

    Like I said, and stand by... mathematically it does not work, give me a specific car, and cost, I will buy it at invoice, and finance it at 4.5 to 6.5% and the car is worth more, with more equity at the end of three years on a 60 month buy.

    Just Math...
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 237,061
    No more Buy vs. Lease...

    Honda Accord Prices Paid, please...

    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • deadsignsdeadsigns Member Posts: 10
    i went to jersey for this. new york dealers pay too much real estate to give u a good deal.
  • carsalesman2carsalesman2 Member Posts: 22
    You dont read well. The $3600 savings over three years is the $100 difference in your lease payment compared to your buy payment. A general example.

    You are correct when you say buying the car for 60 months compared to the lease + buyout. You do save money. If though, you want to trade out after three years your payment was a lot higher and you probably have negative equity. In the lease you will not.

    Also, if you are leasing your cars for sticker, its no wonder you dont like it.
  • srx2870srx2870 Member Posts: 16
    Hi, just wanna know if the price of 21000 for a 2010 honda accord coupe Ex is good? I look through all the posts and wasnt able to find sufficient info. Thanks for all the help!
  • keninnc1keninnc1 Member Posts: 9
    $25,513 plus tax (3%, plus $10.00 local county), tags ($115.00), doc fee ($399.00). Net $26,792.36 OTD!! I also used overstock.com and they sent me to the dealer ~200 miles away but saved me about $1,450.00 below the best NC dealer price.

    Thank you!
    Ken
  • keninnc1keninnc1 Member Posts: 9
    srx2870....Is this a stripped down coupe? Manual or Auto?...Need a little more information. What part of the country are you in?

    The MSRP $23,305 version is selling at $17,651 in my area.

    I believe there are 10 different price points for the 2010 Accord EX Coupe. You'll need to provide more details to get an accurate answer back.
  • dgalliherdgalliher Member Posts: 2
    Hi All--

    Looking to buy a 2010 EX sedan with manual transmission. Anyone know how far below sticker they're going for? I'm in the Albany, NY area.

    Thanks!
  • delta737hdelta737h Member Posts: 626
    edited June 2010
    joer2001,

    Your statement: "Leasing is mathematically dis-advantageous for anyone, period." is not universally true at all. This is not a matter of my opinion. Rather, it's a matter of fact that can be supported by mathematical analyses using tools from capital budgeting and economic analysis.

    Your statement: "Leasing cannot be mathematically shown as having value." also flies in the face of reason. A vehicle is a depreciating asset and is purchased for consumption and, therefore, is considered an expense, not an investment. Even so, there is always some derived benefit from holding a depreciating asset. There is even a derived benefit from leasing whether it's the right decision or not. For example, in some cases leasing may be cheaper! It's also difficult to quarrel with individual preferences that are hard to quantify. Here, it's important to recognize that there are tangible as well as intangible benefits that are dependent upon individual preferences.

    Your statement: "buying outweighs leasing in resale value. (residual value vs. used car value)"

    makes no sense. Do you have any idea what a residual is? What is it supposed to measure? What do you mean by "resale value"? Wholesale value? Retail value? Do you actually think that the two, residual and "resale" value, are even remotely comparable? ALG (Automotive Lease Guide) residuals are the industry standard (baseline) and reflect forecasted wholesale values. The finance captives self insure their own residuals and don't necessarily have to abide by ALG like most banks do. Therefore, finance captives are free to set their own residuals which, in many instances, are considerably higher and, even grossly inflated, when compared with the ALG for competitive reasons.

    Also, your math: "Do the lease math, figure the cost (payment amount X number of months plus residual) never as good as financing. never."

    is grossly over simplified and overlooks a number of mathematical details not the least of which is opportunities for investment and the time-value of money.

    Look, any mathematician or actuary will vehemently disagree with you. The decision to buy or lease is dependent upon a number of factors including the individual's financial position and their opportunity costs of investment. An integral part of capital budgeting is the lease v. buy decision-making. Textbooks on capital budgeting and financial analysis dedicate two; sometimes three chapters; to the lease v. buy decision. If your claim were true, then why would financial mathematicians and economists dedicate time to the lease v. buy decision? According to you, they're wasting their time. I couldn't disagree more.

    The decision to buy or lease a car basically involves selecting a holding period which may differ for a lease than for a purchase. However, time-valued adjustments can be made.

    Next, one chooses the methodology to be used which is usually an incremental cost study or a net present value study. There are other studies that can be used but these two are the most prevalent. They're also very valid. Of course, any good study will capture the depreciation time-line profile associated with the vehicle under study.

    In the interests of simplicity, we'll assume identical holding periods in which case, the buy payment streams will exceed the lease payment streams triggered by residualized financing. Adjusting for any differences in upfront transaction costs, we can state the following...

    If the future value (benefit derived) of the increment between the buy payment streams and the lease payment streams (i.e., cash flows) exceeds the net terminal value of the vehicle at the end of the holding period, then the financials tell us that it's best to lease. The benefit that the individual derives can be quantified in a variety of ways (investment opportunities, purchases of durable goods, etc). And so, there is a quantifiable benefit of leasing that exceeds that of purchasing. By the way, the net terminal value of the vehicle captures all future benefits associated with the remaining life of the vehicle.

    John

    .
  • vikramgvikramg Member Posts: 13
    Finally closed the deal today at Criswell Honda in Germantown, MD. I guess they wanted to really sell out their quota. The internet sales guy drove almost 40 miles to pick me up from work after we decided on the price. I initially wanted to get LX Auto. Unfortunately, the interior color my wife wanted was not available. However the same combination of colors was available in LX-P. I just showed him cars.overstock.com lowest price available in DC metro area and he agreed without much fuss. I took the cash incentive instead of financing.

    We closed the deal for $18025 + $100 processing + tax and tags. I figured I got a good deal, so I didnt even attempt to bargain on the processing fees. I am happy that I got a great bargain. Its the best car buying experience I ever had.
  • srx2870srx2870 Member Posts: 16
    thanks for your help. the coupe i am looking for is a 2010 honda accord coupe ex automatic, no option added. I am living in NY area.
  • boss12boss12 Member Posts: 2
    automatic, no additional options but the EX standard stuff.
    Illinois

    Lease deal offered is:

    36 months / 12K miles per year.
    $235 per month
    $1500 payment out the door
    Residual $15228

    Tax, fees and first payment included in down payment. Tax rate is 7.5%.

    Is this a good deal?
  • joer2001joer2001 Member Posts: 32
    I don't ever thing leasing is a good deal...
    You can buy that car with an out the door price of $22,500.00

    You can then finance that car at 4.0% for 60 months. (with $1500.00 down)
    Your payments would be $382.00 per month (you may even get 0%) and then your payments would be $350.00 per month.

    At the end of three years You would only owe $8800.00 (with the $382.00)

    (or 8900.00 with the 350.00 per month)

    So for the additional 150 per month (5400), you would own. 7,000.00 more in equity

    Good luck.

    Joer
  • boss12boss12 Member Posts: 2
    when you say out the door, you mean tax and fees included?

    So what is the sales price than for EX ?

    Thanks for your advice and assistance.
  • alamocityalamocity Member Posts: 680
    Well the link you posted is for a vehicle with a salvage title so not sure too many folks would want to touch it.
  • baobabcnbaobabcn Member Posts: 1
    Hi folks,

    Recently I'm looking for a 2010 Honda Accord EX, 4dr, automatic transmission, 4cyl. I inquired the price in a big San Jose dealership yesterday. The salesman gave me OTD 23800 (9.25% tax rate). I cut 3000$ off directly and asked him if he can do 20800. He bowed me out immediately and told me it's impossible.

    I'm thinking probably I asked too much?

    Any advice?

    Thank a lot!
  • joer2001joer2001 Member Posts: 32
    I would check with Norm Reeves Honda Superstore West Covina,
    A saleman I spoke with there, Oscar Acosta, they seemed to be a straight shooting, no baloney dealership.
    We were only looking for a LX, but they were the absolute lowest price.

    Good Luck!

    Joe
  • joer2001joer2001 Member Posts: 32
    I apologize, kyfdx,

    No more buy vs. lease from me.

    sorry.

    If it can go in another forum it will.

    I will look around.

    Thanks,
    Joer
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 237,061
    Thanks!

    Leasing vs. Purchasing

    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • gperrgperr Member Posts: 157
    With Car_man's help again- I pulled the trigger this weekend. Got my wife a new Silver/black 2010 Accord Sedan EX-L.

    here is my Deal:

    MSRP $27,540
    Purchase Price: $23,209 (including their dealer pack-mud guards/wheel locks/trunk tray & Window VIN Etch)
    36 months, 12k AHFC lease
    Residual 58%
    MF .00158
    Sales tax in NJ is 7%

    Monthly Payment: $300
    Out of Pocket: $704 (which includes 1st month $300, NJ 3yr Reg. & title fees $227.50, Doc Fee $169, and NJ Tire fee $7.50)

    I have brought in this dealership a decent amount of business and got them on an unusual very slow saturday.
  • gerbiesgerbies Member Posts: 9
    I currently have a 2007 Honda Accord EX-L, V6 lease, which will mature in September. I started the shopping process as I wanted to see what else was out there other than an Accord. I still favor the Accord. After reaching out to a couple of dealers, the dealer with whom I took the lease on my 2007, said it might be advantageous to end my lease early in order to take advantage of the amazing deals on 2010 Accords right now. He also said the model/trim I want (Accord EX V6 with cloth interior) is a harder trim to come by versus the EX-L or 4 cylinder with cloth. Here's what he told me:

    - There's no penalty for terminating the lease, if the dealer purchases the car.
    - Because I only have 19,000 miles (I don't drive a ton) after almost 3 years, I know this would be a great car for resale for the dealership.
    - He said, I might have "equity" built into the car, which would make this deal smooth. How does that work? For example, the payoff per Honda Financial is $15,600. If he's willing to offer, say, $16600, what happens to that $1000?? I know what happens in a regular trade-in, but what about a lease?

    Currently, the deal he is offering (which is the best within 100 miles on-line) is:

    2010 Honda Accord EX V6
    MSRP $27,750
    Price - $23,600 (including destination fees) (this is $1700 under invoice)
    Extra - Title/registration and tax

    Is this a good deal?

    I will see what my interest rate will be; we have super great credit and will qualify for the best interest rate (though, I will go with the dealer cash on this deal versus the current 0.9/1.9% offering). What kind of interest rate can I expect with top credit?

    Help? Does this make sense to anyone? Will I be able to do this without killing my credit? I need to understand what the equity piece is about.
  • zatireszatires Member Posts: 39
    Instead of leasing a new one, why don't you just buy the current one you have outright?

    It has very low miles, and you can keep that 2007 for another 10 years without a problem, instead of leasing for the next 10 years and making payments for 10 years.
  • joer2001joer2001 Member Posts: 32
    So true, keep what you have, finance the $15,600.00 at your bank or credit union. Intrest rates for good credit customers are now around 4%, very cheap money.
  • acuratradeinacuratradein Member Posts: 5
    I'm buying a 2010 Honda Accord EX-L 4Cyl without the navigation. Got quoted $24,700 (includes destination fee, but not taxes, etc.) with 0.9% financing (in Westchester, NY).

    Sticker was $27,540.

    I thought I was getting a good deal, but after browsing here, I'm not so sure. Seems like price should be closer to $22k-23k.

    What are other getting for quotes on the EX-L without the nav?
  • civic4me3civic4me3 Member Posts: 12
    I'm hoping to get that new car this weekend.
    I hope the car man or anyone with knowledge of car pricing or good negotiating skills can lend me a hand.

    I'm looking to PURCHASE:

    2010 HONDA Accord EX-L V6
    Black on Black
    Side Molding
    Wheel Locks
    Auto start with a true auto alarm.
    Lid spoiler.
    I'm looking to car shop in NJ or Staten Island although the car needs to be registered, inspected. and charged NY sales tax at time of purchase.
  • willb3989willb3989 Member Posts: 3
    Just took delivery on the following lease. How did I make out?

    2010 Accord Coupe EX-Automatic
    MSRP $25,430

    Negotiated Cap Cost (including destination fee) - $20,699

    Money Factor - .00158

    Tax, Title, Acquisition Fee, 1st mo. payment - $1300

    Monthly Payment including taxes - $232/mo.
  • bryanjessbryanjess Member Posts: 1
    Ok, newbie here...How did I do? Honda Accord EX..black on black..4 cyl...(190 hp)..sunroof...5 speed manual (love it)...paid 1 month lease up front...registration fee...and payments will $255.00 a month. How'd I do?...thanks...
  • gerbiesgerbies Member Posts: 9
    I posted a few days ago about turning a 2007 Honda Accord lease in early for a 2010 Honda Accord EX V6. I got a preliminary price, which I posted. We did some more research and worked with multiple dealers and ended up going with a 2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6. I believe we got an excellent deal...here are the particulars:

    2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6
    MSRP - $29,815

    Vehicle Cost - $24269.07
    Tax, Registration/Title/Dealer Convenyence Fee - $2046.56
    Total Cost of Car - $26315.63

    Down Payment - $3000
    Payments of $429 @ 3.9% for 60 months

    I think this was a pretty great deal.
  • civic4me3civic4me3 Member Posts: 12
    Come on there is no one in the NY/NJ area that can throw numbers my way? I went to car dealership yesterday Metro in Jersey City and we came real close to sealing the deal, but the number they were $1500.00 away from my max.
    Come on guys - lend me a hand where should I go?
  • joer2001joer2001 Member Posts: 32
    Honda, Toyota, and related (Acura lexus) have often times been the most elusive in the area of "best deals".
    If I were you i would tell them I will buy at $XX,XXX.00 out the door. Then leave it alone.

    When I last did that I got a call 3 months later, And I bought my Tundra. Their story was that Toyota had a "Spiff" where if they sold 20 tundras that month they got a Bonus from southeastern toyota.

    It was the last day of the month, and they said I was Tundra number 20.

    We had a similar situation on a Lexus we got for my wife once.

    If they are $1,500.00 away from your max, let them come to you.

    Good luck!
  • mirageseamiragesea Member Posts: 29
    Vikram, I'm looking for the same car in Maryland. I started my research today. What exactly does this car have or not have? thanks
  • mirageseamiragesea Member Posts: 29
    The last time I used this forum, I bought a new 2004 Honda Accord LX successfully.

    I'm interested in the same car now but there seems to be more choices like premium.
    Also, truecar.com says the dealer cost for LX 4 cyl cloth seats is $19,155 and great if you can get it at or below $19,455 (including $750 dest. and $219 ad fees NOT incl. tax, tags, title)
    What do you think? What is a great OTD price for the LX?
    I have my own financing, so will pay cash. I'm located in Maryland (College Park area in the DC suburbs)
    thanks
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