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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • You are simply wrong alvlee, Look back at my posts. Three weeks Ago I purchased 2013 EXL V6 without Nav for 27999.00 before TTL. I described exactly how I did it. Several other forum participants also used my advice and got under invoice already in redesign cycle. I achieved 300 under invoice. Read my posts. Go To Weymouth honda's website and travel to boston to pick it up. I was willing to do it until dealership in poconos nearly matched Weymouth's price. To anyone, go to Weymouth's website, register, and you will already have their internet price. They are great. Read my past posts. I know there will be more fellow forum people who will be thanking me. Good hunting. Invoice is completly doable at this time.
  • fxguyfxguy Posts: 132
    edited November 2012
    Looks like you should be the one smacking yourself for thinking the Accord will not go below invoice within months of its debut. Did you even read through this prices paid thread before commenting??? Several people have paid invoice (including the person i replied to that generated your post) or even below and the vehicle has only been out for 2 months. This is no S2000 or MR2. This is Honda's mass produced bread and butter Accord! Its a segment where you price it right and move massive units or get out of the way for the next manufacturer to rule this class. The Camry still rules the sales crown and Honda is not challenging for that coveted crown by sticking to MSRP. As somebody else already mentioned, dealers like Weymouth are already advertizing $500 over invoice on several models. Please do a little reading (and thinking) before commenting in future.
  • I respectfully do not agree with your post. Less than 3 weeks ago I purchased an Accord 2013 EX-L V6 no navi (MSRP sticker $30,860). Price I paid was $27,794, plus $55 for wheel locks, $399 Processing fee plus VA sales tax and tags. Total out the door price was $29,101. There was no trade in, this was strictly a new car purchase. Based on my experience I can assure you that following the methodology described by carcam123 does work.
  • km19km19 Posts: 2
    I am getting Out of Door quotes of $25350 , car price being $22999 , Is it a good deal ?
    Also the dealer is asking almost $250 for splash guards and wheel locks , are they really needed ?
  • okaniokani Posts: 20
    he was talking about below invoice price, not MSRP.
    Factory invoice is $27502 + destination Fee 790=28292, to me any price below $28292 is a good price, not sure what people mean when they say under invoice: factory invoice or factory invoice + destination fee.
    I paid for my first accord in 2008 factory invoice + $100, currently the deals I'm getting include destination fee, which is $790 more :(
  • gee22gee22 Posts: 82
    MF is set by the leasing company based on your credit score. While you can negotiate financing rates with the dealer, I've never heard of anyone who has negotiated the MF.
    I have seen some advertised lease rates for the Accord that are definitely third party leasing companies. The Honda Financial bank fee is $595 so if you see a different amount in the ad, you know it's not Honda - but stay away, they will get you at the end. I just turned in a Camry leased from Toyota Financial with eight scratches and dents, including a big gash on the bumper. The damage came to $1,200 on the pre-inspection report but I wasn't charged a penny. Toyota wants you to lease another car in the future. I've leased from Saab (twice), Volkswagen, Subaru and Mazda. Only one charged me a small amount for damage and it was $1,000 less than the collision shop quoted me. The only car I leased thru a third party was an Audi thru Hann Financial. I had one little scratch and a little ding, and they hit me with a bill over $1,000 (it was in the early days of leasing before pre-inspections). Pay the extra few bucks a month to Honda Financial.
  • Does the $25,350 include Taxes and destination fee. If it does, then the price is fair. I'd say $250 is about right with the wheel locks. You can go to the Honda estore and price the items. The estore gives U the MSRP for the accessory and then lists below that price with installation. The dealer can't do it for free so if the difference is reasonable It's a fair price. You can find the Honda estore on their website or just google it.
  • yangyxyangyx Posts: 20
    Hi Brian, thanks for sharing! VIP quoted me yesterday 19880 for the 2013 Accord LX, that's the same as most quote I get for 2013 Altima base. I haven't tried to go further since I'm not sure whether the price will go down further in a week or two or so. May I ask for suggestions on this quote? Should I take it or what?
  • juanvaldezjuanvaldez Posts: 4
    edited November 2012
    13 Accord Sedan w/Nav 4 Cyl MSRP + Destination Fee = $30,785. The best buy price I got so far is $27,973.

    The best 36 Mo lease price with no down payment so far is $470.

    Any idea how much lower I can get in the Chicago/Cook Co market?
  • gee22gee22 Posts: 82
    I believe the residual is 57%. What MF are they quoting you? Even if you put the bank fee, doc fee, taxes and license fees into the lease, essentially a sign and drive, it should be under $470.
  • hondafan31hondafan31 Posts: 14
    edited November 2012
    Okani - I agree with your comment that many of the references to invoice pricing are confusing ("not sure what people mean when they say under invoice: factory invoice or factory invoice + destination fee"). I also find it a bit confusing when the majority of posts don't mention whether their price paid is a deal that includes a trade in (dealer can make their margin on one or both sides of a deal). Regarding your assessment of a good price (Factory invoice $27,502 + Destin Fee $790 = $28,292, any price below $28,292 is a good price) my price paid of $28,193 for my EX-L V6 no Nav (purchase, no trade in) compares well ($27,794 w/Destn + $399 Proc. fee= $28,193).
  • hondafan31hondafan31 Posts: 14
    edited November 2012
    I purchased my car from Pohanka Honda in Fredericksburg, (Matt P., Sales) and paid $29,101 OTD for my EX-L V6 no Nav (MSRP sticker w/Destn of $30,860). Price paid was $27,794, plus $55 for wheel locks, $399 Processing fee plus VA sales tax and tags. There was no trade in, this was strictly a new car purchase. Read my previous posts and the posts by carcam123.
  • MORE HELP - I have a quote for $498 for Cook County/Chicago and the same dealer says in Lake County the lease would be $440. Does that make sense that the difference in taxes is $2,088 over 36 months?
  • Are you able to provide some more details on that offer? That's a great price from all of my research thus far, I'd really be interested in dealing with them, especially if you even end up getting that for lower! How soon are you likely to be making a deal? I'm looking to make mine by the end of the month. If you finish yours by then, I would be willing to then go to the same person and put you as the referral and let you get the referral check. Might as well go to a fellow car buying looking to maximize their finances!
  • thetripleithetriplei Posts: 7
    edited October 2010
    Before I got too excited on that one, I probably should have asked, was the manual or CVT? If it's the CVT then I definitely meant every word I said! haha
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 104,424
    Yes, Chicago has an extra 6% lease tax...

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • yangyxyangyx Posts: 20
    I went to VIP yesterday. It was LX CVT. But they charge $750 for new time buyers. Which means that if you bought a car at VIP within 24 months, they will take that off. That means, for new buyers, the price goes back to invoice. They were willing to go down to about 22700, but that's too much for me, and I am willing to wait until January, or go on a 2009 Toyota Camry which will cost me 11000.
  • km19km19 Posts: 2
    Got myself the EX this thanksgiving.
    The deal was $ 25500/- for Out of Door including all fees / taxes as well as splash guards , wheel locks and all season mats.
    The dealer charged another 1,814 for 8 years / 120 k package and lojack .
    The basic price of the car was $ 23,000/-
    The dealer was Sierra Honda and they were 10/10 in entire dealing.

    What do you guys say ?
  • yangyxyangyx Posts: 20
    I saw yesterday someone tried to get a deal between 25000 and 25100, failed his attempt.
  • rob_v6rob_v6 Posts: 20
    dealing right now at riverside honda ---riverside CA ---sport $=21628, Ex= on the table right now with the deadly game of haggling. i'll try to get it at 400 less the price i posted. will let you know later
  • yangyxyangyx Posts: 20
    I am really thinking of what Brian was saying. Dealers don't have to give you a deal. Just be careful don't pass their deadline or they will kick you out of the door. Good luck~
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 5,181
    Honda fan, AND OKANI


    1- Dealers Invoice price= what Dealer paid for vehicle

    All dealers get a 2 to 3 % holdback on every vehicle sold depending on car company... If you buy a Accord at invoice price the dealer is still making between 700 to 1000 on his holdback...then add his doc fee's, and added items such as pin stripping, mud guard, nitrogen in tires etc. they are laughing all the way to the back.. Dont let them..

    2- Dealers M.S.R.P.......= Sticker price on every vehicle. this is the Suggest price from the Factory. This means every dealer has room to negotiate for his profit from the full M.S.R.P.. If they can get it... or they could sell car at what they pay for it know as invoice price. This is the dealers wiggle room on his profit margin..

    3- Destination charge/ Del charge all the same. every buyer has to pay this freight charge of $ 790. Once you determine dealer invoice on vehicle you need to add the dest/ charge onto vehicle price along with any other otd prices including your states sales tax. When people in this forum post there out the door numbers it actually means Nothing to us unless they are telling you what State they live in? , how much that dealers doc fee's where? and any other prices after the actually car sale number.... the only numbers you need to know is how much below or above dealers invoice price did that that dealership sell at. then you want to negotiate dealers doc fee's and either lowering them or getting them removed from deal..............

    This is how you can determine what price to start your negotiating at.
    If your target price is dealer invoice which it should be. then you tell every dealer thats the number that gets it done. once you let the dealer start giving you his idea of a good deal Your done and your leverage is over.. I BUY RIGHT KNOW AT MY PRICE... YES OR NO THEN MOVE ONTO NEXT DEALERSHIP. always try to buy the last days of any month you have the best leverage... the better negiotaters get the best price buying this way. gotta play there game................... Brian

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • brorantulabrorantula Posts: 1
    edited November 2012
    I went to a couple Honda dealerships around Boston, MA and the best offer I received for the 2013 Accord Sport CVT was, after taxes and fees, at 23,500 out the door.

    Is this a good deal? I read some past posts in this forum but couldn't find much about others experience/pricing with the Sport. I was hoping for a 22k-23k out the door with the Sport, or is that asking for too much?

    Does anyone know if there are any place better around the Boston area.

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 5,181
    Yang, cant answer that question... GETTING THE BEST PRICE IS DETERMINED HOW GOOD A NEGOTIATOR YOU ARE.. you choose the vehicle that best suits you. The Altima vs the Accord. Altima handles better , better gas mileage, seat comfort,, Accord better Tech features and quality of car, better resale value.... You will get a better price on the Altima right now... check edmunds boards on Altima's they been selling for below invoice pricing.... seen as high as 1800 below invoice price... When you decide on the vehicle you want call 10 to 20 dealerships the last days of the month with invoice price on the Accord and 1000 below invoice or lower on the Altima.. Read prior post in your area on pricing in both message boards to get a idea on what your target price should be.. good luck............. Brian

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 5,181
    Borantula, the model your looking to buy makes no difference on price . find the dealerships that r selling at invoice and go make the deal. Waymouth Honda . M.A. are selling for just alittle below invoice pricing check out web site or call inter manger on pricing

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • yangyxyangyx Posts: 20
    Thanks for responding to my post! I am still in the middle of my decision, but it is a very hard one, but I thought with an higher chance I will go after the Accord. There is two more confusions. I tried your methods, and called a couple of dealers. I told them that I will also call other dealers. But they only ended up calling me back and trying to bait me in, or saying that they are not able to get the OTD number or they usually don't discuss it over the phone. What should I do in this situation? I also believe that if you have a target price, it should not be too far away from what the dealers are selling at. When you say that the dealers are making 1000 when selling at invoice price, what target price should I set for myself in the first place? Many thanks in advance~
  • Bad advice. You forgot to mention that there are often factory-to-dealer incentives. Sometimes these are published online, sometimes not. These can be regional, or even targeted at specific dealers. I always recommend asking as many dealers as you can what their lowest price is, and going from there.

    I usually get my Hondas well under invoice price due to factory-to-dealer incentives...especially this time of year on "last years's" 2012 models.
  • anne99anne99 Posts: 11
    I plan to purchase a 2013 Honda Accord.

    I subscribed to the CarBargains service from the Center for the Study of Services. 800-475-7283

    If you’d like more information about CarBargains, this is the web site:

    Select the make, model, and year in the upper right hand corner

    As part of this service, CarBargains obtained pricing information from five dealerships. Here is some of the information CarBargains provided:

    Invoice MSRP
    Base price $20,579 $22,480
    Vehicle Subtotal $20,579 $22,480
    Destination Charge $790 $790
    TOTAL PRICE $21,369 $23,270

    As part of this service, one dealership indicated they would sell the car for $1,000 above invoice. Here is my question. Should I offer to pay the invoice ($20,579) + $1,000 or should I just offer to pay the $20,579? Why do I need to pay the $1,000 over the invoice?

    Doesn’t the manufacturer provide a hold-back to the dealership, 1-3 % of the MSRP? If so, is that enough profit for the dealership?

    Thank you
  • I just purchased a 2013 LX. I'm in the New York City area. It was my first car buying experience and I've learned a few lessons for next time. I wanted to share my pricing, because it was very helpful to see what everyone else paid. Here is my breakdown:

    Base Price: $21,784
    Sales Tax: $1878.87
    NYS Required Tire Recycling Fee: $12.50
    NY State Inspection: $10
    Dealer Fee: $75
    New Plates: $207

    OTD @ $23,967.37
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 5,181
    Yang, what state do you live?. Read prior post in your area .. your target price is Dealers invoice on the make and model you want. Read my last few post on how to buy on the phone or online. Your not telling the internet managers the right things. you have to control the conversation. You have to be in talks with someone who has the power to give you there best price that moment..NOT THE SALESMAN WHO WORKS THE FLOOR. Tell every dealer you contact that for invoice price you buy right that moment. its yes or no. If they say no tell DEALERSHIP what is your bottom line price that is close to invoice. then tell him thanks and only call you back if he wants to make a deal at invoice. . move onto next dealer etc, etc,.. buying a car is a negotiation . Once you let a dealer give you his idea of a fair price your done.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

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