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Comments
Agree. I have been leasing a 2011 Sonata GLS for nearly 3 years now. It has been a good car other than some squeaks in the interior and off-center steering. However, having test driven the new Accord, there is no comparison. The Accord is nicer in every way other than the exterior design and the price.
The front driver seat is my main concern. Almost all the time it is just me driving. It is interesting that a minor characteristic can make a big difference.
Go to a Honda dealer and sit in the back seat. Even better, rent a Honda
for a weekend.
The Accord provides you with more but i have to put my left leg between
the brake pedal and foot rest to be comfortable.
thanks
I am in contact with autosport too. Who was the Sales rep who helped you ?
A vehicle that came out all-new in 2011 might not have had the time to undergo any changes, as its design was locked into place years ago. But a new car only takes three years to reach the market. There’s really no excuse for any of them to perform too poorly, even if it is an all-new test.
View & Read: http://blogs.automotive.com/iihs-gives-2013-honda-accord-best-rating-in-new-cras- - h-test-ratings-122825.html#ixzz2HnJWFk8R
The Sandman
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
I KNOW YOU POSTED YOUR DEAL ABOUT YOUR NEW YRS EVE PURCHASE AT AUTOSPORT Honda in N.J.
correct me if im wrong. your deal was $1000 below dealers invoice on the auto / sport model..... You posted a 2000 below dealers invoice purchase price.... tks
Brian
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Price: 27,314.14
Doc: 398.50
Tax: 458.85
Tag: 55.00
OTD: 28,226.49
They threw in guards and wheel locks. Put a deposit down since they didn't have my color. I might need to call them about the tax. Bought in VA but live in NC, it seems a little low.
Shopped initially for Acura TL and Audi A4, but I loved my Civic and stuck with Honda. Used carwoo.com to help with the offers.
I guess you would go for the Mazda.
When I test drove the Mazda, for the first 2000 feet or so there was clucking clucking noise that went away completely after that. It wasn't the car color I wanted so it wasn't going to be that one anyway. But the reviews about engines failing and transmission going bad were what made me wonder and pull back. By the way the dealer is in Easton PA if anyone is interested.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
On the other hand with the Mazda I would save now and if reliability proof to be good, I wouldhave saved a lot of money.
The really odd thing about the Mazda is that I found out that they stopped production of that car in August 2012 and they still have leftovers. There were about 7k as of December.
They won't make them in Florida and they moved them to Japan for 2014 because they are not selling and don't get me wrong, is a hot looking car imho, and for those prices it makes me wonder why not more people are driving them.
If your flat tire was caused by a road hazard like a nail, your flat won't be covered. You will only get something back from the tire manufacturer if there was a defect in the tire.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
i think when the accord market loosens up people could get the 1k plus the doc fee's added to sale price. right know most deals are going 400 to 850 below invoice knowing there recouping 300 to 500 on doc fee's. Every month you could wait longer the price will get better.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Brian
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I decided to purchase the Accord from them because they offer lifetime free oil changes, they will let you use a loaner car if you are servicing your car there, and they offer 10 year/100,000 mile engine and transmission warranty (but caveat is that this is only effective if you've gotten all your routine maintenance work done there), I hope that $27.5 (including destination) is still a good deal. I'm sure that prices will come down as the months pass. But I couldn't wait. In any event, we absolutely love the car. The new model is very impressive and has a "wow" factor... from the "luxury" grade leather seats to the electronic/safety features. This is Honda's best Accord.
Did you get a College Grad Discount or Loyalty ownership discount or something. I am in touch with AutoSport Honda and the best they can offer for Accord Sport CVT is 21655 + $790 dest. You got for almost $1500 less. Who was your sales rep ?
Will update forum when I actually purchase vin. By the way no delerships in VA can even come close to it and will not come below invoice and they want to stick you with 499-599 processing fee's. I dont see how/why people here in VA are letting the dealerships get away with those profits. I did learn something with all of the negotiating with around 50 dealerships in Va and GA. The ones who really tried to match Weymouths (which there were none who could) there were a few sales mangers told me if I could get the car for that price I should jump on it and don't let that deal go since I would not see that pricing here locally. I figured those dealerships were at least giving me the straight talk.
After contacting Weymouth's in MA and AutoSport in NJ, I am noticing atleast $500 difference compared to End of Dec prices.
Are you taking a train to boston to pick up your car???????????????????????? I personally think, dont know yet til i start my negotiations on last day this month that there are a couple of honda dealerships here in new york with only $75 dollar doc fee's..
i plan on trying to get my best deal with them after getting best prices from New jersey dealers. i know if i go to Weymouth honda i could do 1k or better.
Here is a list of N.J. dealerships who i like in best to worst order and feel can get the best price closest to Weymouth honda if anybody is interested.
1- AutoSport
2- Paul Miller
3- Hamaliton
4- Joyce
5- DCH Acedamy Good dealership 500 below has been there lowest price.
6- Garden State........... maybe
7-Metro.. Always load there cars with add on's gotta know how to negotiate,high doc fee's $369
8- Planet honda.. High doc fee's of 398 claim to match any offer on paper so unless you can get a great price quote dont expect much at this place.
Brian
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
The Sandman
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
Open Road Honda and garden state send some decent prices via email every now and then. Tracking those emails, I noticed that like I said before on memorial day week they go down as much as 1k from their normal low prices. So I will see if I will wait that long. Good luck w yours.
Memorial day week is end of year sales to me. you always can get great pricing on any vehicle at that time. I like to buy my new model cars in Dec of the previous year or in the next 2 months at best. I keep them 4 to 5 years. This gives me the full benefits of owning the vehicle that whole model year. Buying a new car is probably the worst investment we all can make financially with repairs and depreciation values. But like i say... You only live once.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
The Sandman
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
Very sound advice. i agree with you.... There is no reason to rush your decision. If money is a issue or a deciding factor the mazda 6 would be a no brainer. Reliability and resale value is on the Accords side. Presidents weekend would be a great indicator with some very competitive pricing for both vehicles. Wait till then and then you could decide..
Brian
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
your right ...Dealers have the leverage right now. always close your car deal on the last days of any month or last day. Thats when you have the most leverage to getting the best price. All dealers will give you there best price on the last day of the month.. Any info or pricing you receive or hear about before that last day you use to help better your deal.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Unfortunately, I must decide in a couple of days as they are running out of leftovers in the red I wanted (and the only color I would go for even at that price, as thats the only color that appeals to me). They didn't have it in stock and were going to get it from ny.Plus my local dealer was matching the Fitzmall, MD Prices, as that's how they went so crazy low. So I might have to give it some thought until tomorrow at least. If not I will go for the original target, the accord. Thanks for all your inputs.
An Optima's safety rating is below Accord but higher than Sonata. The mileage is same as a Sonata but less than an Accord. Hence, one will be paying about $1k more than a Sonata for its slightly better safety ratings.
IMHO, it may be better to spend about $2k more on an Accord instead of about $1k on an Optima (same mileage as a Sonata) because an Accord has better mileage (min $2k gas cost saving for about 100k miles) and highest safety ratings among these 3 cars. Hence, the effective cost of an Accord could be about $20k, if one is planning to keep the vehicle for a long time (> 100k miles), provided there is no huge repair bill due to its shorter warranty. In addition, one's mind will be peaceful knowing that he/she has the vehicle that has the highest safety ratings in its class at the time of purchase, besides the higher reliability and reputation of a Honda vehicle.
Earlier, I was ready to purchase a Sonata. The vehicle was supposed to be at the dealer's lot before Christmas. But it did not come due to some issues. It will be coming only towards the end of Jan. I have the buyer's order but did not sign it yet. Thankfully, I came across IIHS 2013 tests around Jan first week. After seeing the IIHS 2013 small overlap tests, I just cannot digest the fact that Sonata's side-curtain airbags did not open. IIHS says about 25% of frontal crash is similar to this test.
An Accord's style and warranty is not as good as an Optima/Sonata but it's mileage and safety ratings are better. Right now, I decided to go for an Accord 2013. May be it was a blessing in disguise for not getting the Sonata in time.
If, I would have across the IIHS 2013 test before Dec 31, I would have shopped for a Honda before Dec 31 and obtained a decent deal on Dec 31. Right now, I am getting offers (Accord LX) for about $21,200 before TTL. I can get much cheaper price (around $20,600) in CA but its sales tax is very high and it negates the difference.
The target: 2013 Honda Accord EX-L V6 Black/Black with deck lid spoiler and cargo net. (First Edmunds thank you shout out to “fg_for_honda” who made me realize I couldn’t have installed the cargo net myself). My 1999 Accord is a V6, and it still purrs. I believe the extra price is worth it.
I like to number items, so:
1) Things I’m not good at: face-to-face negotiations and listening to a salesperson tell me something I know to be false (i.e. “my cost is ..” or “this deal is only good today”)
2) Things I am good at: data collection, organization, cheapskateness. I’m a little bit OCD about this. You should see my spreadsheet.
3) What I’m about to tell you took a long, long time. I was sure I knew what car I was buying almost a year ago (Kia Sorrento before the MPG debacle, Prius V, Sonata, and then in the nick of time, the new 2013 Accords were released).
4) The Edmunds forums saved me several thousand dollars back in 2007 when I bought a Camry Hybrid. Forum rules: You Must Read At Least The Last 50 Postings Before Asking Your Question. It’s almost always already been answered. Also, maybe don’t stop by the forums when you only have 30 minutes left to make a decision on a purchase. I’m just sayin.
5) I absolutely realize that if I keep a car for 8 years (or 14 like last time), any $100--$500 in savings won’t really amount to much. But I can’t help it. I also realize that every day these things are for sale, my price starts to look not as impressive. You never check prices _after_ buying a new TV, do you?
6) Research I did, besides Edmunds: I downloaded every free kindle book on car buying I could find. They mostly all say the same thing, which we all sort of know. One guy who stood out runs this website: http://www.fightingchance.com/ I did not pay for his service, nor his e-book (which was free for awhile), but his big, overarching thesis is that INVOICE PRICE HAS NO BASIS IN FACT. I tend to believe him. 15 years ago, before we all knew the exact invoice price, dealers had a much larger spread between Invoice and MSRP. Now that spread is a few thousand dollars at most. It’s still valuable as a comparison tool because the whole country has the same invoice price, but the next time a salesperson tells you that invoice price is “their cost”, you should laugh at them. We have no idea and won’t have any idea how much any particular vehicle costs. Which is fine. You just want the cheapest OTD price. You shouldn’t care how they got to that price (holdback, incentive, doc fees, year-end-quota). He also wonders why we care what an “average price paid” was through truecar.com when none of us want to be average.
7) I signed up at: Carwoo.com (okay to get an idea of names and price ranges of internet dealers), Edmunds/Truecar/USAA/AAA/Costco/cars.com. This was just to collect names and e-mails and to see what the general public was paying. Costco is a valuable service that charges about $500 over invoice at the time I was shopping. If I was short of time, or less OCD about data, I’d definitely do it that way. You walk in and sign. I also tried carhound.com, which is like an online car broker, but they came in several thousand dollars higher.
8) Everyone should read the following post before buying. This guy makes my record-keeping and data collection look like small potatoes. He tracked VINs for Pete’s sake. http://www.piloteers.org/forums/5-your-experience/31956-how-you-should-buy-your-- next-new-vehicle.html
9) Finally, http://www.realcartips.com/guide/newcars.shtml said kinda the same thing.
10) I test drove about six weeks before purchase target date. I told them that they were my first stop of five stops. Honda, Hyundai, Kia, Toyota, Subaru. Of course, I already knew what I wanted, but they didn’t have to know that. I tried out a few things on the test drive, but didn’t really put the car through the paces. Don’t let them run your credit. Keep your drivers license in view if you can. As I was walking off the lot, a young (kinda sleazy) floor manager asked me to step inside to run some numbers. I politely declined. I didn’t step inside another dealership until well AFTER I had purchased my new car.
11) I aimed for the last few days of December. I must be honest here, though we all believe it, I’m not entirely convinced that my timing resulted in any savings at all. I bought on December 28th. A Friday. After purchase, my sales guy made no mention of my timing after I asked.
12) I sent out feelers for sales people through my social media universe. My klout.com score is 63, for those of you who know what that means. I have a pretty large online social circle. This led to three contacts at three different places. I added them to my spreadsheet.
13) Then I added every sales person who had responded to carwoo, costco, cars.com, edmunds, truecar, etc.
14) Then came the first difficulty. How do you find e-mail addresses for internet sales managers without calling them (I’m no fan of the telephone)? The honda website has links, but you have to change your zip code around to get a full list. I aimed for within 50 miles of my south bay area home. In some cases, the individual dealer websites had e-mail addresses. But most didn’t.
15) I wrote my e-mail asking for a specific model and options and assuring them that I’d buy within 48 hours. I told them I would only accept e-mailed quotes. I wanted to sound informed, but not know-it-all-ish. I mentioned invoice, dealer holdback, my credit score, their satisfaction survey, and gave them three ways to contact me.
16) I felt some loyalty to the guy who let me test drive from my local walking distance dealership. But throughout this entire process, he never once responded to any of my multiple e-mails. In fact, the e-mail address on his business card bounced. Believe it or not, when I got home from a new car joyride the day after I purchased, he had left a message asking me if I was still interested. #fail.
17) California has an upper limit on document fees. $80. I feel sorry for Florida right about now. On the other hand, I had to pay 8.375% sales tax, so you can feel sorry for me right about now. There’s a tire fee and a DMV electronic registration fee and whatnot, but all I cared about was the price of my car, plus my two options. I was afraid my two options would make comparisons difficult, but they were mostly in the same ballpark in terms of cost plus installation ($402--$557). I got a price before TTL from all interested dealerships.
18) I sent out 39 e-mails. Yes, 39. At 23 dealerships. From two blocks away to 62 miles away (a place I heard had good deals). Yes, in some cases I sent more than one e-mail to a single dealership. This may have caused some internal strife. One recommended salesman couldn’t work with me because his team had alr
I live in VA and used a quote from Weymouth to negotiate my deal from a VA dealership. Two months ago I purchased an Accord 2013 EX-L V6 no navi. Price paid was $27,794 (includes Destination Fee), $55 for wheel locks, $399 Processing fee plus VA sales tax and tags. There was no trade involved, just a new car purchase. Car dealership is in Stafford VA (Pohanka Honda). I researched pricing on the Weymouth website and secured a quote $27,794 from the Weymouth dealership (includes Destination Fee) plus a $239 processing fee. The Weymouth quote addressed the process associated with an out of state purchase. I took a copy of the Weymouth quote to Pohanka Honda and negotiated a very comparable deal. The Pohanka deal was based on the same price quoted by Weymouth for the car plus Pohanka's $399 processing fee, ($160 difference).
19) I heard back from just 12. If I was Brian125, I would have called the other ones up. But I was determined to do this without using the phone. I sent followup e-mails to those I didn’t hear from. I find it incredible that I had $30,000 in my pocket which I was going to give to one lucky salesman within 48 hours and a large number of people never responded. I left contact information to prove I was real and motivated. In one case, I sent five e-mails to the five people listed as “internet sales manager” at one dealership. None of them have responded to this day.
20) The first prices came in. Some were exactly what they offered at carwoo, some were over invoice, some were a little bit below invoice. The lowest initial offer was $500 below invoice. After 24 hours, I sent a second e-mail mentioning the lowest offer. Some of them didn’t respond at all to this, some responded that they thought they could sell their cars over invoice; most were polite. I was likewise polite. Just because I didn’t buy their $1000 over invoice car, doesn’t mean it didn’t fly off the lot just the same. The cars are great and they are still new in the marketplace. No hard feelings. Most came down in price.
21) I now had five places substantially lower than the rest. So I began my Edmunds-informed final push. “I am aware of how important the Customer Satisfaction Index survey is. I look forward to giving the winning bid’s dealership the highest ratings on my post-sale survey.” Next e-mail: “I have high credit scores and may be persuaded to use Honda Financing if it brings my cost down” Bingo! “If you finance with Honda at 2.49%, I’ll give you $500 in flex-cash towards your downpayment.”
22) Yes, I already applied for and was approved at Penfed at 1.49% which I will use to refinance the Honda loan thereby saving me $500 over the life of my car loan. Penfed cost me $20 to join.
23) Final e-mail to the winning dealership (15 miles away): “If that flex-cash ‘disappears’ before I get there, I walk; If our out the door prices don’t agree, I walk”. He assured me it was all good.
24) And then, the big final demand from me: “We will sign papers at a Starbucks. I am NOT coming into your dealership. Do you have one nearby?” “Yes, across the street. I’ll meet you there.” SOLD!
25) We met, I bought his coffee, we sat down and looked over the numbers. I showed him my huge spreadsheet of every dealer in California. He marveled at it. While we were there, two of his managers came into the Starbucks. They likewise looked over the spreadsheet. They were most amazed at the fact that so many dealerships simply didn’t respond. Did I miss out on a great deal from the unresponsive dealers? Maybe. But I know they missed out on my money by not responding.
26) The winner was “CC” at Morgan Hill Honda. After my very first e-mail, he punched numbers into his computer, took a photo of his screen, and e-mailed it back to me. Within ten minutes. The guy responded to each and every one of my e-mails within 20 minutes. He didn’t pressure me. He used proper grammar and spelling. He didn’t make me wait for answers. This guy is going to make a ton of money as more and more young people buy cars online. He had his iphone with him at all times. Some of the older salespeople are going to have trouble keeping up.
27) After papers were signed, I was required to go to the dealership to drive the car off the lot. But by then, CC and I were pals.
28) The holidays messed with parts ordering and it took a week to get my options installed, but now with the deck spoiler lid, my car looks like an “almost BMW” from the back. My three tank overall mileage is 29 and I’ve been tearing over hills and around curvy back roads. In Econ mode, I blow over the Altamont pass without the RPMs going over 2k.
29) For those of you data minded, these are historical pre-TTL prices for a 2013 Honda Accord EX-L V6:
30860 MSRP
30353 Truecar Average Seven Weeks Ago
29813 Edmunds TMV Seven Weeks Ago
29785 Google Cars Regional Price Seven Weeks Ago
29467 Carsdirect Seven Weeks Ago
29459 Edmunds TMV Four Weeks Ago
29192 Costco Twelve Weeks Ago
28792 My highest bid--he politely told me that he had more buyers than he knew what to do with at this price.
28693 USAA Seven Weeks Ago
28566 Carwoo Offer Seven Weeks Ago
28292 INVOICE PRICE
28272 Truecar Target Seven Weeks Ago
28193 Truecar 65 Miles Away Seven Weeks Ago
28064 Truecar Target Four Weeks Ago
27998 Carwoo Offer (but then revoked and dealer stopped using it--rogue salesman?)
27931 Truecar Target Three Weeks Ago
27788 Internet Quote From Online Inquiry Recent
27739 WEYMOUTH quote for comparison (higher doc fees, though)
27695 Bid from 50 miles away
27492 Bid from 39 miles away
27477 Bid from 30 miles away
27192 Winning Bid from 15 miles away.
From my sales contract:
27192 Cash Price Vehicle
446.76 Deck Lid Spoiler + Cargo Net installed
80.00 Document Processing
29.00 Electronic Vehicle Registration
301.75 California State Fees (title, tires, etc.)
2363.32 Sales Tax (ouch)
30412.83 Out The Door
Thank you for all the help in this forum. Good luck out there. Remember that a car is a commodity. There is no shortage. You can wait
i posted in the honda cr-v forum post number 11919 Jan ,10th on how to start to get pricing from out of state dealerships then apply it to your state . If your not a good negotiator check it out . Or if you want to read mikes above post you hopefully will be done reading it before the end of the month..
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
only provided by the Honda Dealer. According to a Honda Salesperson
the system can only be opened by the dealer.
If this is true it is not a deal breaker but is important
to know regarding maintenance and emergency repairs.
thanks
I asked a dealer about this fee when he presented it
in his offer. He said it expedites the delivery
of your registration. When I asked him if it
was necessary to have this added service,
he said no and would remove it.
Anyone in the forum had a situation with this fee??
CA DMV has an awesome new car fee calculator that
includes everything.
Thanks,
- Ray
Rarely a man of few words ...
My last car was purchased through a local independent auto broker and the price is always invoice or invoice minus any manufacturer deals going on at the moment. The broker finds the car that meets my specs and has it trucked by the selling dealership (usually a mega-dealer) to the broker's location where we go to take delivery. Clearly the transportation fee and broker fee (an undisclosed amount) mean that the broker is getting the car for a few hundred below the invoice. The last time around, after a long search and negotiation, the broker price came in almost the same as the best price I could get with a dealership. The deciding factor was: buying a Honda from a dealership around here (Raleigh, NC) requires you to sign a contract (even for a cash deal) that includes clauses where you give up your right to sue the manufacturer or participate in a class action lawsuit against them. You avoid that with a broker. As someone who got a major engine repair paid for through a class action lawsuit, I appreciate the advantage of not signing that away.
Respectfully ignore brian125's implication that you can't get a good deal ("You want that car you will have to over pay").
I've done A LOT of research on this as I was dead set on purchasing a new manual. I live in Houston, and there are countless cvts on every lot, but very, very few manuals. I wanted the EX, and at one point there were only two or three in the entire state of Texas!
My advice is to email each dealership in california that has the manual in stock and tell them you're looking to purchase the car in a week or whatever, you've been researching for the past however long, and you're just looking for the best deal. Ask for the best OUT THE DOOR they can give. (Just search online for negotiating with dealerships and you'll find some good advice.) But definitely negotiate the price online, not in person. You won't get anywhere in person.
There was only one EX in the dark gray in Houston and I couldn't negotiate a good price on it, so I decided to order it from the manufacturer for total drive out of $25,150, the only dealer add-on being window tint. If they had it in stock and I financed with the dealership in december I could've gotten 24,500 OTD with the $500 Honda bucks. 25k OTD is almost right on invoice.
Well the car was taking forever to arrive, I was getting antsy, and a Dallas dealership got the car, so I negotiated with them and actually got a better deal, 25,200 but with more accessories. Here's the breakdown from Lute Riley Honda in Dallas:
2013 Honda Accord EX
TRUE Price: $22,883.98
Dealer adds: $500.00
- cargo tray
- mud flaps
- window tint
- door edge guards
- pin stripes
- wheel locks
Subtotal: $23,383.98 plus Tax,Title & License.
So 25.2 OTD vs MSRP of 24,605 + 790 dest + 665 dealer adds msrp = 26,060 + ~2,000 TTL = 28k+. So no way in .... do you have to pay msrp. Not even close.
I ended up driving four hours to Dallas to pick it up, but that's the price I paid for the manual, and it was definitely worth it!
As a side note, I'd definitely recommend the EX. After driving it for a bit I'm sold on the smart entry, push-button start, rear-view cam, and the sunroof is just a nice touch even though I rarely use it. The ONLY thing I don't like (besides the fact it doesn't have tons of power, although it's sufficient) is that it doesn't have a leather steering wheel. That's it. Bit nitpicky.
Good luck man. Let me know if you have any questions.
Price paid:
2013 Honda Accord EX Manual Sedan
TRUE Price: $22,883.98
Dealer adds: $500.00
- cargo tray
- mud flaps
- window tint
- door edge guards
- pin stripes
- wheel locks
Subtotal: $23,383.98 plus Tax,Title & License
TTL came out to be $1,816, so total DRIVE OUT was $25,200 on the button. If I ordered from the manufacturer I'd also negotiated 25k OTD with zero dealer add ons, so this was a comparable deal.
Est. MSRP OTD (with $665 msrp dealer add ons): $28,040
Negotiated OTD: $25,200