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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • anitasilkaanitasilka Member Posts: 1
    I just got a quote from one dealer here in Los Angeles, CA for accord EX... The price is $23,000.00 plus tax and other fees....
    Just wondering what do you guys think? Should I go there and still try to negotiate the price or I'm getting a good deal here....
    Thanks for any feedback.... You guys are awesome here
  • mjk14mjk14 Member Posts: 12
    After months of research and hesitation switching from an SUV to a sedan, I finally pulled the trigger and made the purchase about three weeks ago. I already saved a bunch of money in gas and could not be happier with the purchase. Although the extra space of the SUV does help at times, you cannot beat the gas savings. Since I received much help from this site I would like to provide my numbers.

    2013 sport automatic, white exterior

    msrp- 24980
    selling price- 21947
    nj tax 7%-1536
    tire fee- 7.50
    doc fee- 359
    reg, 4 years- 301
    flex cash- minus 500
    total- 23651

    I was in contact with numerous dealerships and feel that I received a fair price being that I spoke with 2 managers who told me personally that they could not match or do better with this deal being that it was a loss for the dealership.

    Hope this helps.
  • gatorguy007gatorguy007 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the input Brian. Just to update: The dealership did not budge on $21,700 OTD so that's what I ended up paying for the 2013 LX. Luckily I wanted black and they were only offering this price on the black model. However, they were offering any other color for $22,000 OTD.

    If anyone is interested, I bought from Autonation Honda in Lithia Springs, GA. The salesman I worked with was Marion Yonder...very professional. Please mention my name - Pranav Patel. Thanks.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    Good luck w your car.

    Oh ... Am i allowed to respond to this posts. seems like the 2 new members with 2 months in this forum have issues with a couple of off subject post advice.

    Sorry guys and thanks for your contrbutions here.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • jplatt2jplatt2 Member Posts: 24
    ok Brian. I will try to make a contribution to this forum. Here's my suggestion.
    Why don't you write one post with all your ideas about how to buy a car, and then just reference the message number when a newbie asks for buying advice or appears to be on the wrong track.
    You'd be providing the same great consistent advice but would do the rest of us a favor as it gets a little tiresome.
  • jplatt2jplatt2 Member Posts: 24
    btw, I did try to contribute via my original post. It was in response to your purchase. I asked for you to share the dealership but you chose not to respond.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    Sorry your post was overlooked. What was your Question.

    As far as me repeating my posts .. Believe me people will not go back and read 4 or 5 posts. Most normal folks can read simply advice and get a decent deal and not clog up this forum with stupid questions. Some need more help. Thats why many of us including myself post often. Thats what moves this board.

    You could go tru several other forums and none as good as this one. Why?? the contributors here post often and keep telling folks what they need to do.
    You take what you need from this forum buy or lease and move on. Then you wont be tired of reading buying advice posted over for different people.

    Blueiegod, who is a forum member for over 10 yrs in these forums has contributed in this forum with great advice to folks.. He responded to happymans' alarm question that i posted. Al thou i did not agree with some of his post it was Insightful and held some truths to alarms and new car tech and immobilzers. i agree the leather seat thing was a bit much but we dont need guys with no time in these forums posting move on when said poster ask for alarm help. Which in return generated 3 posts on it. And 2 were mine. Not 5 or 10.

    Please let us guys get back to helping this forum and stop worrying about a few posts off topic. Both those posts were Un called for.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • rouzbehrouzbeh Member Posts: 6
    Ok so I got my quote for EX-l cvt (25000+199 admin fee), so this price plus tax (6.5%) + other state related fees and 1.9% financing charge will be financed for 60 months. What other fees after that do I have to pay? My concern is about insurance, how is it gonna work?
    please explain!
    Thanks in advance,
    Rouzbeh
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    I always like to contact my INS. company first before i buy to see what the yearly cost is to insure said vehicle.

    To answer your question Dmv, plus your states tax gets you out the door. Unless this dealer tries to sneak in another charge on you.. Call and ask before closing the deal.
    Call your Ins. company and let them know you are about to purchase a new Vehicle. You need Ins. fax number so the dealership can fax over the buyers order with Vin number. In return Ins co. faxes back a temp Ins, card.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • 2013accordv62013accordv6 Member Posts: 7
    Hi All,
    I just purchased 2013 Honda Accord EX-L V6 for $28,147 OTD at Pohanka Honda of Fredericksburg, VA. The following is the breakdown:
    27185 - Invoice Price(approx.)
    815 - Tax(approx.)
    128 - Title/Tags
    499 - Doc Fee
    10 - Out of State Fee
    I would like to know how I fared and if anybody has had a better deal/OTD price for the same model.

    Thanks in advance,
    Reddy
    P.S. - Please remember two things, if trying to buy at the dealer:
    1) AVOID Kristyn from the Sales Team. I would recommend Kingsley who was lot better to work with.
    2) Make sure you then agree in writing/email to give you the $500 flex cash if you qualify for financing through Honda Financial Services.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Member Posts: 1,009
    edited July 2013
    Hi,

    I am new to this forum, and I do apologize in advance if this question has already been asked.

    I was wondering what some members in MA have paid for a 2013 Honda Accord Sedan EX-L automatic without navigation. I plan to finance the car for 60 months.

    I have contacted several dealerships in the greater Boston area, and so far the best sale price I was quoted was for $25,119 from Honda cars of Boston. That price only includes destination, and no other fees.

    Can I do better than this?

    Thanks,
    Mike
    2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • 4myfamily4myfamily Member Posts: 16
    Hi Mike,

    I almost bought accord EX-L with navi. From Northwest Honda in 9701 Reisterstown Rd, Owings Mills, MD 21117 for $26.8k OTD but the taxes is 3%
    For north carolina and tag ~75. Good luck
  • cw30000cw30000 Member Posts: 11
    i'm interested in the V6 and would like to know what price did you paid. I am located in NJ and wouldn't mind driving out for a great deal.
  • ziggy25aziggy25a Member Posts: 24
    it is very disappointing gmanusmc that you still refuse to keep on topic here. I will be contacting moderators to clean up this off topic thread off the board.
  • hondafan31hondafan31 Member Posts: 14
    edited July 2013
    I purchased the same car (2013 Accord Sedan EX-L V6 w/o Nav) eight months ago for $27.7k (includes Destination) plus $399 processing fee, taxes, tags etc. There was no $500 Flex cash offered when I purchased which accounts for the majority of the difference in our deals.

    This is my third vehicle from the Pohanka Honda Fredericksburg dealership. Based on occasionally monitoring the posts in this forum I believe you negotiated a very good deal. Did your deal include a trade in? (my deal was strictly a new car purchase). My salesman was Matt P., my experiences with the Pohanka dealership (different salespeople each time) were all very favorable.
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Member Posts: 1,009
    Thanks.

    Another dealer emailed me saying they will match the price of any dealer and even beat it up to $500, but they are about 30 miles away from where I live. So I guess, it will depend on the final sale price and OTD price.

    I might end up waiting till the end of the month to negotiate a deal.
    2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • 4myfamily4myfamily Member Posts: 16
    bluemkn57cars

    I drove 300 miles to save $3K. Yes! $3K form where I live believe it or not.

    fyi, I have been told, by one of the dealers, there is no more production of the 2013 Accord, getting ready to sell 2014 in Sep. If you can wait even one more month, you may get a better deal. just a thought. Good Luck
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    For crying out loud ziggy, no need to be disappointed - different people see things differently from each other. I am still in the feeling out the accord stage - probably will not purchase til 2014s come out. So, for me, I am interested in every aspect of the buying process discussed on here. Sometimes, alarm systems are a part of an auto purchase consideration and I don't see a problem with a few posts talking about it. You see it differently and that's ok. If I start reading a post that I feel doesn't offer useful info I can use, I just move on to the next post to keep the education process going. Oh well - enough said.

    Take care, Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited July 2013
    I would assume knowing how good Honda works it supply and demand products-/ Vehicles the 2014 Accords will be comming on the lots in Sept but ever so slowly... This in return will affect pricing ranging from invoice price to 500 above plus... for several months. If you find a dealer who has 20/30 new 2014 on there lots you will be able to make a great deal on a 2013. Dealers will not go out of there way to find you specific colors and options. His lot is where your deal lies. Colors like Red and Blue you will find bigger discounts. Dealerships need to remove them off there lots to make room for the 2014's.

    If money is not a issue and its just something to think about when buying a 13 or 2014
    If your not closing a deal on a 2013 Accord for 1500 to 2k below invoice price plus incentives/rebates in August you should consider buying that 2014.

    Buying a 2014 Accord at invoice price and driven it 4 months in 2013 gives you 14 months of driven that car til its 1 years old in Jan,2015.. Opposed to the 2013 that will be a 1 year old model on Jan,1 2014. If you check Honda oddessy prices paid forum i did a price breakdown comparison on a yr old 2013, and 2014, honda van with 12k miles on it. Same would apply with both model accords just the price numbers would be diff.

    On Jan,1 2104 your 2013 Accord depreciated about 2k off your sale price. The first 3yrs of any new vehicle is when you stand to lose the most money on your car investment Especially most American cars they have terrible Resale value.

    Just something to think about for all you buyers that are debating between a 2013 and 2014 model.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Member Posts: 1,009
    Thanks for the advice, 4myfamily.
    2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Member Posts: 1,009
    I am just waiting for a good deal. I am not sure if I will be able to wait till August, but if that happens then getting a new Accord at least $1500 below invoice might be worth the wait. I am pretty sure that the 2014 model won't be that much different from the 2013 model.

    Thanks for the advice.
    2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • dmoto1dmoto1 Member Posts: 3
    is this the 4 door sedan with sport trim? how did you get it in white? i thought it was only in silver or black? or was this the coupe?
  • dmoto1dmoto1 Member Posts: 3
    when do 2014 models come out?
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    There is no change in model/ options on 2013/2014.

    Alot of dealers will try to sell the 2014 well above the invoice price for months.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Member Posts: 165
    That was Brian who provided the advice. Also, you should consider that you may have greater reliablility with the 2014 vs initial year redesign of the 2013.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 16,373
    Well written post and very informative as always Brian. I find the opposite holds true for me specifically because I put more than average miles on my car (20K per year). My previous car was a 2010 Acura TSX which I bought in August 2009. You should have seen the look I got from some dealers when I went to trade the car in with 49,000 miles in March of 2012.

    My current (leased) 2011 328xi doesn't look so bad on paper with "only" 26,000 miles. Even though it is a MY 2011, I didn't take delivery until March of 2012. Either way it doesn't matter because MY 2011 was an abnormally long production year for BMW. They started building 2011s in May 2010 & Continued selling them until May of 2012, so my car isn't going to be worth anywhere near the stated residual value when I turn it in at the end of next September.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD

  • pjl52pjl52 Member Posts: 26
    edited July 2013
    I picked up my car on Sunday, July 7. Pick up was easy and uneventful. I traveled from Rochester NY to Westchester (about 300 miles) for the deal. I traveled with a friend who was traveling that way so the logistics were easy.

    As previously reported I paid exactly $1000 below invoice for the car described above. The car was financed at .9% , 36 months in the minimum amount of $8500. Doc fees in NYS are regulated to be $75 and DMV fees are just what the state charges with no tack on fees (about $150.)

    I purchased from Honda of New Rochelle. All details were handled via phone and email. They were very easy to deal with. (Most of my dealings were with "Anthony".)

    I made my offer for an immediate purchase on Friday July 28. (I wanted 1000 below invoice plus $500 flex cash. ) They almost immediately came back with the $1000 off but no flex cash. I took their offer. Perhaps I could have counteroffered and gotten part or all of the $500. The deal was contingent upon financing the car, which I did not really need, but took the financing to get the best deal.

    Several reasons I did not counteroffer: 1. They had the color I wanted (Champagne) which is relatively hard to get. The interior of this car is a light color with dark trim. I just did not like the black interiors offered with most of the other exterior colors. 2. I live in Rochester. I began "dealing" that morning by calling local outlets The dealers upstate in Rochester, Buffalo, Syracuse and Albany were not making reasonable counteroffers. So I called a few in Boston and in the area north of NYC. By the time I talked to New Rochelle, I had talked to 10 outlets and was a bit tired and discouraged, so I grabbed the offer.

    As previously discussed, I learned several things. See: #29978. In addition a simple thing: to get the best deal, one should finance. In most states the finance deal is "simple interest" which means that the loan can be paid off immediately with little to no interest charges. Saving $500 or so by the little bit of trouble entailed in filling out a loan application is worthwhile.

    If and when I buy another new car, I will follow Brian's advice here: #29979

    The car is beautiful and drives very well. (Driving home on the Thruway we scored 37 mpg--really great).

    My thanks to all for advice and sharing their deals!!

    One more question: when signing the papers in the dealership, I chatted with the manager. He claimed that flex cash came only with leases and not finance deals. This is contrary to what I have read in this group about Honda incentives. Perhaps this was the dealership policy in dispensing the flex cash they had, and not Honda's. Can anyone comment?

    Phil
  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Member Posts: 165
    This is from a dealer's add in CA.
    You may qualify for Honda Flex Cash! A great option to receive up to $500.00 cash down paid by AHM on a new 2013 Honda purchase. Must finance or lease. Please call dealer for details.
  • nw_lanw_la Member Posts: 6
    I know that I should buy on the last 2 days of the month. I'm planning on buying an Accord at the end of August. Since Labor Day is Sept. 2nd, should I wait until then or buy at the end of August. Surely there will be incentives for a Labor Day sale. So... when should I buy?
  • bethpabethpa Member Posts: 35
    I was minding my business when getting my car serviced today and saw my dealer had a 2013 V6 EXL with nag that was a demo model. It had 5000 miles. I know what is the invoice on this car but what does the dealer have to work with on a demo? Do they get an allowance from Honda or do they simply treat the car as a used car and expense the depreciation while it was a demo and try to find someone who is willing to pay invoice thinking they got a great deal. My gut tells me it is invoice minus $3500-4000 and that is a win-win for the dealer and buyer. Does that make sense?
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Member Posts: 1,009
    Brian,

    I have read some of your older and more recent posts. They are very informative.

    Do you think if I wait till the end of the month, I might be able to get a deal for less than $25k on the EX-L w/o navigation with $500 Flex cash?

    Invoice is $25,609, so let me know how low of a price I should start with when negotiating.

    Thanks,
    Mike
    2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    Once you have made a target price for your model buy as soon as you get your asking price. If a dealer wont meet your price at the end of August most likely they wont meet it on Sept 2. The more dealerships you get involved in the pricing game the better you will do finding your asking price..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited July 2013
    Mike.
    Anything is possible. If you dont try you will never know. Go thru dealerships web sites to find your model. Dealers that have your model on there lot will most likely be looking to sell. Experience tells us at this time of year dealers will have a hard time swapping cars with other dealers. They wont help each other due to the demand on certain 2013 models/ colors that are left knowing the 2014's Start to arrive sometime in late Sept.

    A 5000 mile demo Accord is not a yr old car and most dealerships consider a demo like a New Car. If i could get that same model Accord new for 1200 to 1500 below invoice why take a chance with a demo even if The dealer sold me his demo for 2500 or more below invoice i dont want it../ You have to assume that 5000 mile demo Accord most likely was driven hard for 7, or 8 months. Look on the driver's door panel to see the production / del date.

    If i'm putting down my hard earned money i want it brand new .

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Member Posts: 1,009
    Good to know, Brian.
    2021 Audi A6 P+2018 Audi A4 P+ (lease returned)2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited July 2013
    In addition to your search for the EXL v-6 i would shoot these dealers internet managers a email or Call each one at the End of the month telling each dealership that for 1500 below invoice price at $ 24,109 you will buy vehicle and hold sale with a credit card deposit.

    Prime Honda , Bernardi, Boch, Boston Honda, Herb Chambers,and dont leave out Weymouth Honda.
    There should be no reason why at this time 1k below dealers invoice can't be had worst case scenario. dealers in Boston/ M.A. have doc fee's of 249 to 400 dollars take that into consideration when making your offer.

    a 1500 below dealers invoice Sale puts you at 1100 to 1200 below invoice with doc fee's added onto bill.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • spratmanspratman Member Posts: 28
    Apologies if this has already been addressed earlier... When you a have a specific model and color scheme in mind, do you first go to the various dealership's websites first to see if they have what you are looking BEFORE emailing them? I wasn't sure if that was the best approach or simply email a bunch of different dealerships regardless of their current inventory and letting them come back with a price and then its up to them to find you what you are looking for.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited July 2013
    Just posted a couple up from yours on that subject. look for your model/ color on dealers web site 1st. make a list of all dealers with and without your model and make your best deal at the end of this month. You will most likely make your best deal with a dealer who has your model on there lot.. Read prior posts on how to buy and you will find a good deal.

    Dont exclude high volume dealerships if you do not see your model/color they might be able to swap with another dealership.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • timlee3timlee3 Member Posts: 1
    I got a quotation in Orange County dealer for 2013 Accord EX-L Sedan.
    $25,688 plus tax and license fees
    (Approximately $28,300 out the door)
    includes the destination charge, and will be exclusively honored through our Internet Sales Department only and not through our retail sales floor.

    I have not counter any offer yet. Any suggestions?

    Thanks waiting for the feed backs
    Tim
  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Member Posts: 165
    and don't assume their online inventory is up-to-date
  • oojasoojas Member Posts: 6
    hey please tell me if this is a good deal and what should i watch out for tomorrow ( i met with the dealer today, they gave me form that had break down of all the fees). Tomorrow i am going in to sign the deal

    the dealer called the manager who told me that he will run to his boss to discuss the numbers i was quoting them. Manager said that this was ridiculously low number and he will do it only if i give him my credit card to show that i am a serious buyer blah blah blah

    36 month lease
    12,000 miles
    state tax % 855.75
    msrp: 26 195
    negotiated price 24,500
    dmv fees 275
    bank acquisition fee 795

    they charged my credit for 500 as a deposit. i knew i should not have let them do it, i gave them my AMEX, i hope i could dispute it in case they try to pull anything

    please tell me what you think about this deal, If i dont like something in the contract tomorrow whats the best way to make them return $500

    thanks
  • ltlladyltllady Member Posts: 27
    If this is a 2013, the price does not seem great. It is certainly not a ridiculously low price.

    One cannot judge a lease unless one has the money factor and residual value. The money factor can be converted to the interest rate by MF X 2400.

    There is rarely a need to give a dealer a deposit. Certainly not without a written document assuring the deposit will be returned if the vehicle is not purchased.

    When leasing a vehicle it is not a good idea to put any money down on the lease. All that should be paid is the first month's lease payment.

    On a lease it is important to note if the actual lease includes GAP coverage. Acura does but I am not sure about Honda. If not it is usually better to buy such coverage from your insurance company if it is offered as dealers charge a grossly overpriced amount for GAP.
  • ken117ken117 Member Posts: 249
    Edmunds TMV is $23,999. Obviously a price of $24,500 is not low. Personally I would request any lease be computed using the $23,999 or less as the capitalized cost.

    Honda has a lease deal on this vehicle with $0 down and 12,000 miles a year for $310. Check Edmunds incentives tab.

    Regarding the salesman's use of the phrase "ridiculously low number," always remember it is never wise to believe anything a sales person says. A sales person is not you friend. Their sole job is to sell you a vehicle at the highest possible price. That is obviously not your objective.
  • oojasoojas Member Posts: 6
    i requested to have 245000 including the destination charge, I am yet to meet with their finance person and i am sure i will get a lot of surprises. I have no problem leaving dealership, but they got me on their playground so far with that 500 credit card charge
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited July 2013
    Close your eyes take a deep breath and pray you have no more surprises in finance rm. Let this be a lesson learned.. Never, Never give a deposit that is not refundable or buy/ lease a vehicle where you have No written proof that this is the Sale price, and total OTD numbers to buy/ lease.

    Make sure you have the right residual/ Money factor and Cap cost before you go into dealership. Call your ins. and find out what gap ins. is on your model just incase honda's lease does not cover it.

    One last tip
    look over your lease and buyers order make sure dealer did not add your flex cash incentive money to the sale price of your vehicle to get you to that $24,500 number. You will see a 500 or 750 minus charge on that bill. Of coarse now that dealer has your deposit and you did not inquiry about flex cash first your not going to get it.
    IF LIKE I SAID ITS ON YOUR BILL... Tell dealer that money is to be applied to your sale price of $24,500 or you walk.

    Good luck

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • huskerfan5huskerfan5 Member Posts: 165
    If your lease is with Honda Finance, it would include GAP insurance but the Honda Finance fee is $595, not $795, so the dealer is either marking up the fee or is using a third party leasing company the charges a higher fee. Stay away from third party leasing companies and if they tell you it is Honda Finance, ask them why they are marking the fee up. That will put them on the defensive.
    Doesn't seem you have reviewed recent posts regarding what people have been paying for the EX. The more you know, the more confident you can be in your negotiations.
    Without any signed documents, you will get your credit card deposit back. If the dealer won't (and I'm sure he will), the bank will. In fact even if you signed something, until you execute the actual lease agreement, I would expect you to get your money back.
  • usmcddvusmcddv Member Posts: 1
    OK, guys thanks for all the pointers and help during this process. I think I got an excellent deal in Virginia. here is the breakdown:

    Price: $27142 includes destination fees and taxes
    Registration, Tags and fees: About $150
    Dealer Transaction fee: (whatever the thing is where they get you over a barrel) $499
    Honda Finance Cash: -$500 (a credit for a 10k financing agreement at .9 able to pay off in 3 months)

    Price on fully loaded 2013 4 Cyl. EX-L with navigation and appearance package (wheel locks, trunk tray, mud flaps and some other stuff)

    $27, 290 OTD
  • dclivedclive Member Posts: 35
    edited July 2013
    OTD doesn't tell anyone (unless they're in your state) anything.

    What did you pay for the actual car, including the car, the destination delivery fee, any dealership-specific fees, and absolutely nothing else?

    In other words, take that $27142, add $499 dealership "fee" for the privilege of selling you a car, then remove any taxes and state-related fees. That's the real price of the car your dealership sold to you.

    And list out the "other stuff" you got. People price comparing would like to know.
  • guptas4guptas4 Member Posts: 2
    I ended up paying 24573+ 790 Dest Fee = 25463 + NJ Tax, 299 Doc Fee + NJ Registration 296 + Tire Fee etc OTD for $27750

    The dealer had me get AHM financing and this deal involves getting $500 back from AHM

    Not sure how good or bad this deal is but I only had the saturday to buy the car.

    comments?
  • juliankryejuliankrye Member Posts: 52
    Which dealer was this if you don't mind me asking? thanks Julian
  • earlecearlec Member Posts: 5
    edited July 2013
    Edmunds TMV has 2013 Accord EX-L (NO nav.) for $26,715. I've just started shopping last week with a probable purchase late Aug or late Sept. First saw the Sport model at the dealer and got an initial quote on that of $23,682. We never went further as I was not buying at the time. The salesman did mention that the EX-L came in the forward collision warning and lane watch along with leather and moon roof. That sold the wife. Sent out requests for quotes via e-mail. So far four have come back anywhere from $24,187 to $24,760 (all w/o tax and tags). My questions are 1) Approx how much more negotiating room will I have on the lower quotes? 2) How will I know ahead of time if the dealer has any un advertised incentives that I could work into the deal in my favor? I would prefer to deal via e-mail and go face to face only when it's buy time which will be at the end of the month. I'm thinking $800 under invoice is a good bottom line. I'm insisting on an out the door price and will walk if any finance guy tries to sandbag me with b.s add on's. This my first time at this for a new car - am I on the right track? ANY help would be appreciated!
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