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Comments
The negotiation went too fast for my liking. Know that I did not get the best possible deal, but the trade in was dripping oil, and wanted to get a new car as soon as possible.
I asked for 25K + 1,200 for my trade in. The counter offer was for 25.5 + 1000 for the trade in. Ended up with 25.5 K + 1200 for the trade in (99 Camry with 240K miles, check engine light on..)
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Haven't heard of one of those since a fifties Simca!
$25625 + $768.75 + $69 Tag + $499 Dealer Fee = $26961.75 - $500 Flex Cash = $26461.75
V6 .. you got yourself the best deal I have seen bro .. dont second guess it and buy it asap ..
If its I4 .. i think you should be able to do better .. considering the 2014 version is just around the corner
MSRP $30800 . Please help thank you
Read some of the past forum comments for advice on how to get the best deal. Normally, the best deals can be had at the end of the month when most dealerships are trying to meet their sales quota.
Where are you located? How many dealerships have you already contacted for e-quotes? If you are not in a rush to buy a new car, then wait a few more weeks to contact any more dealers. In the mean time, keep doing more research.
Good luck.
Have you tried to counter the dealer's price? A good deal deal is anywhere from $1200 - $1500 below invoice. Since you stated there are not a lot of dealers in your area, getting close to $1000 below invoice before flex cash would be a good deal.
Do you need to buy asap or can you wait till the end of the month? The best deals can be had at the end of the month.
Base Subscriber Price
$27,995 $25,809
Destination Fees
+ $790 + $790
Total
$28,785 $26,599
I can wait until the end of the month; however, that could limit the ability to get the color I want. Should I base my offer $12- $1500 below $26,599, or use $25,809 as my starting point? I don't want to turn the dealership off by presenting an unreasonable offer.
Since the best deal you have so far is $700 below invoice, an extra $300 off before flexcash could be possible.
If you were shopping at the end of the month, I would have recommended to aim for $1500 below invoice.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Here is my suggestion. Your problem is not enough dealerships in your area. this means you need to make your best deal within 100 miles. The list of dealerships i give you are mostly in S.C. they very well may be out of your range.
I want you to call all of these dealerships internet dept/ Manager. let each dealership know you would consider making the 5 hour trip to there dealership for 1500 below invoice plus any flex cash they have to offer for financing thru honda, Collect your best deals with further dealerships and try to make dealerships in N.C. match or beat. You might even consider if the pricing is right to make that extended trip.
The problem you are going to find is getting a good price on the 10th of the month. You need to start your buying process the last week buying the last 2 days, last day. The S.C. dealers will realize you are fishing for pricing and might not want to budge on a starting offer. The magic words when your buying a vehicle is... I'm buying right now this minute ..Yes or No.
Stevenson honda..............n.c
Bryan honda.....................n.c
Goodwin automall...............s.c
Hendrick honda ..................s.c.
East Coast honda ...............s.c. ... high volume dealership /this is who may give you the best deal in S.c.
700 below invoice price with flex cash added into that number is a Terrible deal. Then if you pay a high doc fee charge your giving this dealer a huge profit on your sale.
Good luck
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
"The problem you are going to find is getting a good price on the 10th of the month. You need to start your buying process the last week buying the last 2 days, last day."
BTW, I will let you know what happens at the end of the month with my search for a good deal on the EX-L.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
You use this forum to gauge your area's selling price and the boarding states market value. you then can make a good deal on what is the true market value. know you feel good about your purchase with the knowledge of what you learned and the deal you recieved.
leave bottom line pricing to guys like me. your not getting what i can. I have no loyalty to one dealership i'm driven by price in the area i choose to buy.
Thats the difference i will cover 3 or 4 states within striking range of nyc. Buying online/ by phone on last days of the month. Minimal time wasted for the sale that day.
How ever you choose to buy is your business. just reading these posts on pricing will help you.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
My advice, tips and experience will get you closer to your target price and pricing in other area's. Use my advice to your advantage. Most of my post concentrate on negotiation skills, finding the best price, market price in and around your area. How and when to buy, avoiding the showrooms and floor people.
All the buyers in this forum should be able to take some great tips, and info on car buying and at the worst case do alot better than anybody walking in dealerships that have done no research.
N.C. is a tuff market on Accord pricing. If you plan to buy there make your pitch to buy at the end of the month.
Your 2013 Accord will be considered a 9 month old vehicle in Sept and a 1 yr old model on jan,1 2014.
1000 below invoice price should be your starting target price in N.C. If the market is as bad as you say. Dont forget about high doc fee charges. if dealerships doc fee's are 300/400 your really only buying said vehicle for 600/700 below invoice price.
I think poster... Bluemkn57cars... has been using this forum to the fullest watching how pricing is going in and around his area/ making lists of all dealerships who sold closer to his target price last month. He for sure has done his research in this forum and most likely it will pay off this month.
lets see what happens in 2 weeks on pricing.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Was looking to get a 2013 LX CVT Lease and from what I've gathered it looks like I should be looking to negotiate final price rather than the lease payment. That, and I should come to this forum rather than the lease one since the information applies to lease as well.
I know I should wait til end of the month to do delivery/negotiate. I did that for my fiance's brother's 2013 EX I4 Accord and got 25,100 out the door (purchase) at the end of June. With year end clearance, I saw I should be looking to offer 1000-1500 below invoice. Should this price be the OTD price? The invoice for the '13 LX CVT is 21,369. Is it reasonable to go after 20,000 OTD at the end of this month for a lease? I am trying to get payments as close to 180 as possible. So far, the absolute best I have been offered with 2000 down is 210ish with everything included. Thanks for the help.
I will try to help you. you do need to go back into honda lease to get residual/ money factor numbers and miles desired then apply it to your agreed sale price of said vehicle. This formula will give you a ideal of how much the monthly bill will be excluding your taxes.
1000 to 1700 is the below invoice target price on your model that you should be shooting for this time of the year.
OTD pricing means with dmv, dealers fee's, and your state tax.
Its always best to Put down the least amount of money on a leased vehicle. just first month payment and roll taxes and everything else into lease. If your vehicle is totaled or stolen you will loss your initial down payment.
Give a shout out to either...... Gmanusmc or Huskerfan in the leasing forum they will give you expert advice and how to negotiate the best deal on a lease and what to look for. The Car man will give you the numbers on the model, years , and miles your looking to lease.
What i could tell you is find your lowest sale price for your model and run the correct numbers to figure out your monthly lease.
read thru prior posts to see what the market value of pricing is selling for in your area.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
You are taking the correct approach, just obtain the appropriate money factor for your credit tier and get the selling price/doc fee total as low as possible. I'll let others on the board tell you what you should shoot for. However, since you lose everything paid at signing on a lease if the car is stolen or totaled, I suggest you put all costs into the lease and get 36 equal monthly payments with nothing else due at signing except your first payment.
Lease factor is .00075 and county tax is 6.5%. Residual comes to about 13770.
Now my question is, when you say I should be negotiating the price at 1000-1700 below invoice, does that mean that the OTD price should be 1000-1700 below invoice or the pre-tax and fee price should be 1000-1700 below invoice? I've talked with a few dealerships in the Akron/Cleveland area and visited three of them. The mistake I was making was that I was offering a trade and 2000 down. Should I not do that? Am I better off selling my old car privately? It's a salvage title 03 Hyundai Elantra. Some dealers offer as much as 1200 (which is the most I hope to get) and some like Jay Honda and Rick Roush Honda offer 200-300. Others offer nothing at all, and say they can't take it. Should I not offer anything AT ALL down? Thanks a lot.
Just Bought 2013 EXL Navi Accord in Houston, I am new to the forum not sure if the price is good , Missed to research on this forum . Paid 30K OTD
The car has
Tint
Splashguards
Seals
Trunk Tray
Nitrogen and Road Hazard Protection
Wheel Locks
Diamon Fusion and Window replacement protection
Any suggestions I know its bit late just an opinion
Regards,
Jay
As far as the 03 Elantra is concerned, I recommend you sell it on the side and use the proceeds to pay a few of your lease payments - using it in the deal is complicating things for you.
Hope this info helps a little.
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Sell your car private. It will be one less headache and will help you get the best deal on your target price to lease.
Here are some dealerships in the Ohio area i used some years back that i found to be good dealerships
1- Hidy honda
2- Waikem
3- Chesrown medina
4- Voss
5- Whitey's Automall
Mike Pruitt, and Park honda are in Akron not sure why i have them on file, maybe i called them but nothing was noted.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
For anyone to tell whether you got a good deal or not, you need to provide the following details:
- MSRP of the EX-L Navi
- Invoice price (kbb.com is a good place to look that up)
- Sale price for the car without any options
- Cost of options and accessories purchased
- Any Flex Cash (usually $500 discount for financing through Honda)
PS: I'm curious, did you negotiate on the sale price?
-Mike
Destination Charge $790.00
Graduate Program -$500.00
Sub Total $22,861.93
Sales Tax $1,460.12
Inventory Tax $46.47
Title Fee $33.00
License Fee $57.75
State Inspection $23.75
Road and bridge Fee $10.00
Document Fee $125.00
Total Drive Out $24,618.02 with American Honda Financing and window tint
is this a good deal?
Thanks
I will be shopping the last week of this month for a deal on the EX-L.
I think I could have had a better deal at the end of the month or when 2014 models come out, but I needed the car ASAP. Also, manuals are somewhat hard to get by so inventory could get even lower by then.
With regards to TTL fees, since those vary by state, it does not really matter. Unless a responder is only providing the OTD price and asking whether they got a good deal or not, then doc fees, etc might help. Any information that will help someone on this board get a good deal on a car is welcome.
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
2013 ex model invoice price= 23,247
-22,571 sale price
Total...................................$ 676 below invoice
minus doc fee.........................125
..............................you paid 551 below invoice price on your model plus any incentives that applied to you.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
If you read most of my posting i only concentrate on That models invoice price w/ dest charge and how much below the deal is for. Dmv and taxes in your state are meaningless to me and everyone else who dont live there. Every state has a different tax rate, and dmv charge making most OTD numbers different in each state.
This is a common post that is useless to everyone
i bought a 2013 exl for 30k otd did i do good.
The only 3 important pieces of info we need to tell if its a good deal is
Agreed Selling price and dealers doc fee' charge.
Is dest/ charge included in selling price yes or no.
All dealerships work of the same invoice price... East coast or West coast
if your numbers are off on pricing you have the wrong price info.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I have not purchased it yet, what should be my target price with flex and college rebate?
Thanks for all your help.
1000 to as high as 1700 below invoice price should be your target price for the sale of your model. Any rebates/incentives like college grad/ Flex cash is added after taxes are applied to your bill of sale.
Do not let dealers get you to your asking price by applying your incentives in that price. Your target price to buy is your first negotiation with all dealerships. that is the only thing you discuss/ negotiate till he meets your price or dealer counters with this is my lowest price . If this cant be achieved you walk out and leave and go to the next dealership.
Example: I will buy today for 1300 below invoice. i will also be financing thru you so i could get the additional flex cash of 500 your dealership is offering. I am also entitled to 500 for being a college grad. Always be in control of the negotiation process. If your asking a dealer for a price your not in control and he/she will walk all over you. Read thru prior posting to get a feel for pricing and buying techniques.
Call several dealerships first to see who is offering flex cash and try to make a deal with those dealerships first.
College grad incentive your entitled to get with every dealership so that one dont worry about.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Documentation fee(s) (not gov't. fee) $ 80.00
Taxable Total: $ 22,691.00
8.00% Sales tax $ 1,815.28
Subtotal with taxes: $ 24,506.28
Registration (title) and license fees† $ 250.00
Additional Official fee: Tire Fee $ 37.75
FINAL PRICE $ 24,794.03
For a 2013 Honda Accord EX Sedan Automatic. Dealer's Invoice based on KBB is $24,037 and the Fair Purchase Price is $24,002. But those number seems like it does not includes taxes and all the fees. If it is just based on selling price alone it seems like I got 1,300 off total invoice?
Good work on your part!
Bill
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Your deal is 1426 below invoice price. great job so far.... minus your doc fee and thats how i gauge your deal. If i was buying at the end of the month i might be able to negotiate a little lower. Your in the target zone.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE