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I was in the input screen and had to figure out your name by memory and too lazy to go out and come back in and did my best affectionate guess so no harm intended. Thank you for all your help to me and everyone else.
The So. Calif marketplace is SO MISERABLE that most of the dealers won't trade with each other. He probably did a "locate" and spotted the one in Irvine and knew he couldn't get it.
A lot of stores in that area have bad blood between them and won't do each other a favor.
We had a couple of stores we wouldn't trade with either after bad experiences.
I wouldn't "lie" to a customer. I would just say..." I can't get the color you want". I sure wouldn't tell them which store had one!
Usually shoppers have some flexibility on color and have a second choice.
As I said before, the So. California market is a cutthroat dog eat dog marketplace. I know I couldn't work there.
On a side note, the owner of that store, Scott Robinson (now deceased) drove the very first model Hondas ever brought one of the very first Hondas ever brought to the U.S. to our Auto Center to show us a "Honda Car".
We walked around the puny little car slowly shaking our heads. He used to be a Pontiac Dealership. His son runs it now and they run a quality operation.
I will be fully ready to purchase around mid-November (which is practically around the corner). When would the best time to buy be? Thanksgiving weekend? Christmas? After the New Year?
Also, the bank I am most likely going through (PenFed) sends out a check after a contract is signed and sent to them and that process can take about a week. Will that still count as a sale for the dealership at the end of the month, even if they don't get the money for a week? Or does the bank's turn around time hurt my negotiations?
Thanks in advance! I have learned a bunch on this forum and really appreciate all of the input/perspectives.
PS I would consider a 2013, but I do not believe anyone really has any white left at this point.
Thanks for the detail info and Enjoy your New Car..
You're correct. Even if a store is diligent about updating their inventory it's impossible to be 100% accurate. On a busy weekend a high volume store can easily sell 30 new cars or even more.
Posting new car inventory on line can be a good or a bad thing. If I owned a dealership I don't think I would do it.
Better for used cars since they are unique.
How does this deal seem?
26,990
99 administrative fee
No other fees
I feel like this should be able to go lower..
Thanks for the insight!
The car is good, but is their goal to keep the 2013s into 2014? Its one thing for the price to have held, but to discount in the summer and then to hold firm at this price at this stage is something new. Am I crazy or is anyone else experiencing this around here?
Yes lots of gadgets!! Liked various aspects of both; the Fusion had some contention, but my fiancé literally couldn't see enough out of the review mirror with his height no matter where he put the seat. Seemed as though it had blind spots but the side mirrors were a plus. The Mazda6 was enjoyable, but didn't have enough for top choice. The Altima is what I have now (2003) and I was very disappointed with the new version's acceleration. I felt like I needed to rock back and forth to get it to go faster haha. The Accord had the get up and go that I'm looking for with great gas mileage ....overall best package
Looking forward to reading through the rest of this year's posts...so informative: full of many perspectives and success stories. I appreciate everyone's insights and strategies!
saw same thing last coupla weeks for the 2013 cr-v in the northeast US even when looking back to may-june period. 2014s already on the lots
prices were high. nice car but 2013-14 = bout same cost
FYI, I am able to get a 2014 LX at $23142 OTD, and I can have $500 discount using the college grad program on top of that price.
If you cant get atleast and at worst case 1500 below invoice price on a 2013 model you have to buy the 2014 model. Financially and with depreciation values on the 2013 model on jan 1, 2014 would be a big mistake especially if your 2013 model is Totaled or Stolen within that 1st year.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Thanks!!
The dealership for that price was at Avery Greene Honda in Concord. Its probably going to be tough at this time (beginning of month) to get them to that price because it took many emails and about 3-4 days between different dealers. Heres what i did: called about 18-20 dealerships within 50 miles of my location and asked for contact info for the internet sales mgr if there wasnt one or they didnt want to give it out i asked for the fleet mgr info.
Waited till about 28th-29th to start shooting emails, it may even be best to start emailing/calling 3rd week and tell the dealer you are ready to buy and to list their sales price including dest charge, ttl, taxes and otd pricing. I was able to weed out 14-15 dealers who either wouldnt email breakdown of pricing or would ask to come in. I pinpointed the 4-5 dealers who were either a high inventory dealership or willing to match/beat the lowest price i received.
I am going to buy end of this month and hopefully for both of us the pricing may be a little lower.
Good luck!
Hey guys,
I've been emailing back and forth with about 30 or so dealerships in the socal area. Prices I got ranged from 25.4k to MSRP $29,060. Average price from the dealerships would be $26,857.75.
The best price I got was from a Loma Linda dealership.
$25.4k with an OTD price of around $27.8k. Didn't come with any rebates, I asked and I won't qualify for the military vet or grad rebates. Price would be even lower if I did.
So I emailed the other dealerships to see if they could beat it.
Most, well all so far, said they can't and that I should buy it at that price. Some said to be careful and watch out for other fees and stuff. Still waiting on other replies.
The ones that did reply were mostly straight forward saying that they can't.
A few wanted the name of the dealership that offered that price.
Should I give the name of the best priced dealership out to other dealerships? Would it be okay? Does it matter?
The forums helped out a lot, and I have been reading them for a year or so.
Thanks mucho!
Price of vehicle - $22531
Moonroof Visor - $158
Sales Tax - $1361
Tire Tax $5
Registration - $63.50
Doc. Fee - $131
Reg. Fee - $15.60
Flex Cash ($500)
Total Price - $23763.62
Good luck - let us know how it goes.
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Thanks gmanusmc. I am in no rush, but if no one else beats Spreen in the upcoming weeks. I'll probably go with them.
I'm also not surprised that Santa Monica quoted MSRP. They're something else (check my Yelp review). I wouldn't buy a stick of gum from them.
G'luck!
Enjoy your new Accord!
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Should I give the name of the best priced dealership out to other dealerships? Would it be okay? Does it matter?
I would recommend not giving out the name of the dealership with the lowest sale price. If those dealerships want to beat that price, then they are free to do so.
I agree with gmanusmc. Make sure the car has no dealer-add ons and let the dealership know that you will be buying the car at that price and you are not going to play any games once you walk in to close the deal.
Good luck.
I'm not sure on how to respond for those dealerships that ask on knowing the name of the lowest priced dealerships, they really do insist. Airport Marina thinks I'm fake and a dealership "shopping for prices." Also wants my number to talk and verify that I'm not a dealership.
Vista honda and Carson honda also insist on knowing the name of the dealership.
Should I just say, "it's fine if you can't offer a better price..." or something to that effect?
Here's the reason I ask my question in the previous post. I got a great quote from Rock Honda earlier in the year (early 2013) for an accord 2013 ex-l i4.
Other dealerships asked for the name of the dealership, and I gave it to them, seeing if they could do better. I think I had a couple that could match it. But I didn't buy a car that time because something came up and needed to wait.
And now, the 2014's are out, so fast, lol.
Now, I can't get a quote at all from Rock Honda and a couple of other dealerships for the 2014 accord.
Was it because I didn't keep in touch, dealerships' feelings got hurt?
Oh and out of the 30 something I initially contacted for a quote on the 2014 accord, only 6-7 responded to my second round of emails (me asking for a better price over this dealer's price...). Still waiting on the other dealers.
If you are planning to buy a 2014 model within the next few days, then it is best if you deal directly with the internet manager or sales managers at dealerships. Call or email them for a BUY TODAY price. If you give out your phone number to an internet sales rep, they will in turn give it to a sales rep who will just harass you. Just my $0.02.
When you received a quote from Rock Honda for a 2013 EX-L, did you speak or deal with a specific person at the time? Did you keep in touch with them and state that you had to postpone your car search due to unexpected reasons?
I am asking all these questions so that I can better understand why that dealership would not give you a quote on a 2014 model. Did you try getting a quote over the phone or email?
I do not think a dealership would feel hurt unless there was an agreement on the table and you bailed out on them.
Car buying is a game, and as a newbie you need to make sure that dealerships do not sense that and think they can mess with you.
Stand your ground and if you feel that $25.4k is the best you can do right now, then pull the trigger when you are ready to do so. On the other hand, if you are in no rush to buy a car soon you could test the waters at the end of the month reaching out to the dealership with the lowest price and asking them for a BUY TODAY price.
BTW, always make sure you have a backup dealership in case your primary one falls through on a deal.
Good luck.
They get so sick of people calling and pitting them against other stores and they know that they can't win. If they are silly enough to quote you a price they know you will shop it to death.
Seriously, decide what you are willing to pay. Walk in with your checkbook and have them write up your offer. Tell them I WILL BUY IT AND DRIVE IT HOME RIGHT NOW!!
If the deal makes sense you will have a quick and easy transaction.
Thanks for the reminder why I decided to retire early. What used to be a fun business has turned into a miserable marketplace.
Also be aware that some stores will deliberately lowball you. I've heard of people driving 200 miles only to find out they were lied to.
" Oh, you wanted leather...I didn't know that!"
" By the way, we pre install 1500.00 worth of accessories on all of our cars"
As I've said before So. California is a ruined market and dealers do what they have to do in order to stay in business.
Losing money on a car deal isn't one of those things.
The really good salespeople don't want the position. They don't want to waste their days dealing with mostly worthless leads.
And, the internet guys will "harass" you just as much.
Not that anyone asked but it can be a painless and even enjoyable experience.
You want to be the educated buyer and have the upper hand in the negotiations. So how do you go about doing it and closing the deal.
If your shopping 30 or 40 dealerships you need to have some sort of target price to buy vehicle and be willing to buy that moment. That is where your leverage is. Your knowledge of area pricing is the key to getting your best deal. If one dealership is out of the park with pricing dealerships know this right away. They will never counter a offer like that or come close when there is no indication your willing to buy right that minute. Most honda dealerships know who sells cars and who dont. Thats why they are asking you. You never tip your hand until your buying that moment and your squeezing that dealership to match or beat that price.......... Again is it a legit price?
I to always want the lowest price and could care less what dealer i take that car from. Every dealership in my eye is the same. Price and dollars in my pocket is what counts most.
Going after pricing in the middle of the month could give you a idea on pricing. If your the guy who needs the lowest price quote from a dealership to decide if your buying.... this is your route. But as you see very hard to get dealerships to commit or meet the few decent price offers you recieved. your not even sure if any of the better pricing is legit.
Isell will tell you that from experience. I may disagree with Isell often but i to consider myself a master at Car Negotiations and will tell you 1st hand you are killing yourself trying to buy this way. You will just go round and round with pricing that gets you nowhere. Knowing how and when to buy is the key to making a good deal. Having a buying target price helps you.
What i will tell you is take your best prices and either work those deals at the end of the month with i buy today. I like to go into the negotiations with a target price to buy. I put every dealers int/ mgr on the spot that moment with i buy this model for xxx price. Do you want the sale yes or no. then you decide to seal the deal or move on and down the list i go til i strike my deal my target price .
If i cant get my target price i adjust my price or wait another month.
One last piece of advice if your shopping 30 or 40 dealerships please read my prior posting it will help you get the best possible deal by phone and email.
post, # 30,550, 30,558, 30,575, 30,642, 30,660, 30,682 30,723
A couple of these post talk about buying this way.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I would definitely buy if I could get the price lower.
As for the 2013 deal from Rock, I just emailed one person and he was very nice and understanding at all points. I told him I would contact him again once I was ready. Maybe he stopped working there, I dunno.
Most quotes I got are from email, but a few are from phone calls.
Thanks for the tip bluemkn. I will try and have a couple of backups.
it's not like I like doing this. I would prefer not too. I would rather have the dealer be straight and price was to my liking, I would buy. Yet it's like you feel you can't get anything other than "come on down, we'll give you a great price," and feel compelled to go dealerships. Then when you're there, it's a different car, different price than what you want, etc.
Thanks for the tips isell, I will be careful as much as I can. The only thing I fear is the F&I office.
One time at a dealership (not honda) after a test drive, I asked the sales guy for the best apr. He said sure, come inside, but turns out he doesn't know. Get's his GM or something and I ask him the same. Oh man was it high pressured to buy right then and there. We go back and forth, and how he'll do cartwheels to make the sale. I was there for 60 minutes, and he finally gave me the apr. I should have just left and looked on my phone, lol.
I didn't start asking for prices until the last week of September, but maybe it was too late. I only got a few responses, then got more after the month ended.
From what I found, most of the dealerships are extremely nice about me emailing them. I don't really email them beside the initial contact. Mostly it's them emailing me for questions about how they can help and what more I needed, and then it's those robo emails. Feels like I get bombarded by multiple "managers" from the same dealership.
I gave my number to a few dealerships since I couldn't contact them via the website without it, and only like two, would call like everyday asking when I could make it to their dealership.
I don't bombard any dealership with emails, once they email me back and they ask something, I respond. But if they don't send anything back again, I don't send another email. I'll wait a week or so and maybe shoot an email to remind them I'm still here. Usually the internet reps/managers do respond within a week though.
The ones I asked and said they couldn't beat the lowest price, I told them to call/text/email me if they could later on because they were straight with me and their reasons why. Yes, I gave them my number, haven't been bothered by any calls from them at all.
Some gave me the same tips that bluemkn, isell and you (brain) gave me on being careful and wished me luck on the sale if I was going to buy.
Well thanks for all the advice guys, appreciate everything that's been said.
I'll update once I buy the Accord.
Before continuing with your car search, you need to figure out the WAF first. If you cannot agree on a reasonable price, then there is no need to keep reaching out to dealerships for their best price.
You also mentioned that you will be buying in a month's time but you have already reached out to 30 dealerships. If you had come to this forum before doing so, I would have recommended reaching out to half of those dealers now and the other half when you were ready to buy. That's what I did when I was car searching a couple of months ago.
Brian and Isellhondas offered some great advice. I would also recommend reading some of my previous posts on how to go about negotiating the best deal: # 31193 (bluemkn57cars, "Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience" #31193, 18 Sep 2013 6:59 am) and post # 31033 (bluemkn57cars, "Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience" #31033, 13 Sep 2013 7:14 am).
Good luck.
Post #
30550
30558
30575
30642
30660
30682
30723
At the top left hand side of any page, you will see a Go To Msg # box. Copy and paste the post #s in the box to read Brian's earlier posts.
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
I do agree with you on this one.
I pointed out to Danny in a previous post that $1200 below invoice was a great deal on a 2014 model year. Hence, the ball is in his court and he needs to decide whether he is going to pull the trigger now or wait a few more weeks/months to try and save a few more bucks.
-Mike
I got the 0.9% financing from Honda finance, and the final price included the 500 dollar rebate that honda financing was offering for purchasing a 2013 model (could not find this on the honda website - the dealer informed me about this).
I mean, I wanted to scream..." What more do you want?"
You can only squeeze a nickel so much!
I'm just glad I escaped SoCal!
Enjoy your new Accord!
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Bill
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Bill
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
We could never truly know what the Honda corp gives back to these dealerships in rebate and incentive money.. I never believed in all my years that posted dealers invoice was a real number.
This is why i laugh every time isell posts about squeezing that last dollar out of the dealership. YOUR NOT
If you take invoice price minus the hold back and dealers doc fee charge add it up and secure a deal at that price you would be at 6 or 700 hundred below invoice.
Do you really think we are squeezing dealers on price. Or are dealers just protecting that Mendoza line hoping we dont go below it which really cuts into there profit.
I wonder?
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Bill
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
If we find that anyone talks we could send blue, and Huskerfan to take care of business for us.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Do we really need 30 honda dealerships thru out NYC and the 5 boroughs/ long island..
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE