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Comments
MSRP with nav: $30,835 (includes $790 destination fee)
Pro-Pack and Remote Start: $1170
Less Discount: $2640
Subtotal: $29,365
_____
Tax: $880.95
Doc Fee: $398
Tag: $74
Based on the above, our out the door cost should be ~$30,717.95; however, we negotiated a total out the door cost of $30k, even. I'm also contemplating asking them to remove the pro-pack as I don't care about it, which would take another ~$360 off the price.
I've run the numbers a few ways and it appears to be a good deal but I can't help but wonder if I'm missing something obvious. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thank you.
Can someone help out here..
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Thanks for the quick reply. If my research is correct, the invoice on the base ex-l is $25,860; invoice on navigation is $1619 and destination is $790. I couldn't find an invoice price on the remote start; although honda prices the fob at $399 and the dealer wants a total of $811 for fob + install.
1) Which ones have the vehicle you want on their lot?
2) How far apart are they on price? Would you feel satisfied with that price if you were to stop negotiating today?
3) How far are they from you? 20 minute drive? 2 hour drive? Your time (spent traveling and negotiating) is worth something, isn't it?
If it were me, I would send an email to each with a reasonable target price. The first (or nearest) dealer who can meet or beat that price gets your business. Don't tease the tigers too much or you might be stuck at home by yourself with no car holding your meat.
sorry i'm having internet trouble tonight. i cant confirm pricing . What i will say is do you really want pro pack and remote start. They are both over priced from the dealer. If you are buying a 2014 model and spending 30k you buy the make model and options you want...... Not throw in accessories that are overpriced. Over charging for remote start then giving you only one transmitter is bs my friend.
Online accessories from College hills honda and Cheap honda parts are as follows check out site for pricing.
Mudguards...........................67
wheel locks..........................36
truck mat.............................90
$ 28,269 is invoice price w/ nav for your model with out accessories. if my price is correct your deal is not a good one. plus dealer has a doc fee of 398.
I dont like this deal at all.
Walk away or make a deal to knock off another 500 to 600 dollars. OR buy the model you want w options.
In addition to knocking off more money. Does this dealer have the 500 flex cash to offer that you would qualify for financing thru honda.
please double check my invoice price on edmunds i cant get pricing thru web site tonight to confirm.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
1) Which ones have the vehicle you want on their lot?
2) How far apart are they on price? Would you feel satisfied with that price if you were to stop negotiating today?
3) How far are they from you? 20 minute drive? 2 hour drive? Your time (spent traveling and negotiating) is worth something, isn't it?
If it were me, I would send an email to each with a reasonable target price. The first (or nearest) dealer who can meet or beat that price gets your business. Don't tease the tigers too much or you might be stuck at home by yourself with no car holding your meat.]]]]]
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look, realistically for any of us willing to drop 30 grand for a new car, whether I get the price to 27,199 or 27,499 or 27,799 doesn't REALLY matter, right? It becomes just a bit of a challenge to see what low price you can nab. I am now verifying WHO actually has the car in stock (or in transit and coming within the next week) and make sure they have low mileage (not 120 miles which equals 18 test drivers banging on my new car....)
I'm still interested in Brian's tactics....at one point I think he said he will call a dealer and give them 5 mins to say yes or no to a target number.
And I hear you on driving 2 hours. All dealers are within a 45 minute radius.
I would love to make my deal today, but I have this sense (confirmed by dealers) that I should wait till Nov 4/5 to see what the new promo scheme brings. Right now there is really no flexcash left, so on Nov 4/5 they SHOULD get some new flexcash, in which case I should be able to resurrect those lower quotes. The wild card factor is if they INCREASE the promo somehow....perhaps not likely but at this point I can't see how it hurts AT ALL to wait 1 or 2 more biz days. I don't think there is really anything that is "expiring" today. Hard to wait but oh well.
I hope your internet issues get resolved. We've delayed going to the dealership to buy the car this morning because your comments gave me food for thought.
I can definitely dump the pro-pack and go aftermarket if I decide that I want those items (thanks for looking up and posting the pricing on those items). The thing about the remote start is that I really want it (I requested it from the dealer). We don't have a garage and in the winter and hot/humid summer months, it would be so nice. My husband says he doesn't mind continuing to be my 'remote start' but I just want it. So, admittedly, I've let some of the BS from the dealer fly. One clarification point to correct something I stated incorrectly- the RS with one transmitter is $711...the $811 included two transmitters. I know they are overcharging on the install though, so I will ask for another transmitter at the $711 price.
Your invoice pricing for the base and nav are correct. I don't know how much value to put into Edmund's true value pricing; however, the TP for my zip is $28,816 for base and nav. Now that I've told you about my desire for the remote start, does that change your opinion on OTD pricing? If they still (over)charge me at $711, that would still put the invoice + RS price at $29,849.40. So adding on Doc and tag would cap once we hit $30k. Not to say we won't try to get additional money off, but just curious about your thoughts now? EDIT: I forgot to factor in the removal of pro-pack so new OTD would be ~$29640.
I agree that the DOC fee is very high. I did a search and the avg is $466 in NC! Perhaps that is where I should start to ask for additional money off the car sale price? Out of curiosity, what do you think is a fair DOC fee?
I wanted to wait until we rooted out a final price before I asked about Flex cash. I would qualify for it. There aren't any financing incentives on the 2014 yet so I was concerned about what rate they'd give me. I may have shot myself in the foot by not allowing them to pull my credit yet (I didn't want a preliminary soft hit to impact my score). So, I told them if I couldn't have dealer financing at 2.75% (what my credit union will do) or less then I would finance independently. Guess what? They said the could do 2.75%, so I don't know if I could have potentially gotten lower financing now (my score is over 800). Long answer to your question is I wouldn't be surprised if they say flex cash OR we match your rate.
Bottom line is we've been looking for 2.5 months and I think I'm just worn down with the process. Thanks for any additional input you may have!
Really? Why should they? They MAY get some new flexcash.
Thanks for reminding me why I retired three years earlier than I planned to!
To each his own I suppose....
Some posters in the forum Accord drive .net have bought the OEM Honda remote starter and had a Honda dealer install it for them. Some paid over 500 dollars, One person in C.A. paid $432 installed. Pricing Depends on the dealer. You could go that route but I think after all this time searching for a vehicle and getting pricing your ready for a vacation.
Take the handful of dealers in your area and make your best price with RS included with 2 remotes.
At the price you posted there is no reason why a addition 500 dollars cant be done on that vehicle. With the added accessories price and you lowering the buying number by 500 dollars
1- puts you in that vehicle for just above invoice price. You now have your remote starter and pro pck at a discounted rate....... but not at dealers invoice price.
2- The dealer's doc fee charge of 398 is countered and a wash on the bill of sale.
3- That dealership retains his full dealers hold-back on that vehicle. 2% of MSRP
Invoice price from what I been reading on the Honda remote starter is just over 200 dollars. Honda may possible get it cheaper but there is really know way to know.
Do not tip your hand with your financing rate. Honda has a better rate than 2.75% let them run your credit. If Hondas rate is more than yours then you tell Honda to match your rate otherwise hush hush........... Take the 1.9% and inquiry about flex cash. Since you are financing your entitled to that 500 rebate from Honda if that dealer has flex cash.
If your interested I posted buying tips and advice read them it cant hurt. post #
30,550
30,558
30,575
30,642
30660
30,662
30723 use any that apply to you.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Really? Why should they? They MAY get some new flexcash.
Thanks for reminding me why I retired three years earlier than I planned to!
To each his own I suppose....
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
@ISELLHONDA:
I don't get your frustration? Dealers gave me good prices with flexcash. Now a few days later they are saying they are out of flexcash, but to wait until Nov 4/5.
So tell me why again this is somehow frustrating for the dealer side? If there is a chance they can offer me a price $500 lower on Monday then why I am being so foolish for not buying today? I mean if there is NO flexcash to be had anywhere in the system, then I can still just buy at the current prices. I guess I'm confused why you're acting like this is such an irrational decision. Now that you're retired, perhaps put yourself in the place of the customer and would you do any different?
I enjoy the art of Car buying and negotiations. I like to beat them at there own game . Rules and prices they set up and want us to follow. Then dealers cry foul or complain were not making money.
Almost half the posters here leave TO Much money on TABLE FOR THESE DEALERSHIPS. Just imagine all the uneducated buyers across the country.
Knowing how and when to buy/ Using the internet to your fullest advantage./ what to look for / what dealerships you make guinea pigs to help you in pricing... etc. This is how you play the car buying game which will get you a great price .
Post if flex cash is back in your area next week..
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Based on your insight and my additional research, I just emailed the dealer with an aggressive OTD counter offer, so we'll see what happens. They know I don't need a new car and while I would prefer to be in one, I'll walk away if we can't reach a number I feel good about.
Thanks for the input!
Promotions are based on inventory levels and good old supply and demand curves.
It just seems to me that you are REALLY putting yourself through a LOT of efforts to buy a car and that you are scared to death you may just have to pay a penny more than you have to.
I'm as anxious to save as much as possible when I make a purchase but they comes a point (for me, anyway) when I just pull the trigger and I don't look back.
Maybe I just don't understand your methods and motivation.
I also realize and respect the fact that we are all different.
Brian is right...it's a big 'ole game, they make the rules and we are just playing it.
So when I did get the fine print, I need to do oil changes and tire rotations on regular intervals (when the light comes on but no more than at least 5k miles). Also the transmission fluid needs to be changed at the recommended interval. Work has to be done at the dealer. All other work does not. You have to keep good records. My guess is if I ever have to use it - it will probably be a battle to get a repair covered. I guess they think if they already have you coming in for regular maintanence you will just stay there when they give you ridiculous prices to fix other stuff. I look at the warranty as an advertising tool to get you in the service department so they can later rip you off.
I ended up with 6 free oil changes as part of my purchase so I'll do the minimum I need to keep the warranty in effect but once they tell me something else is wrong i'm going straight to my regular mechanic.
Promotions are based on inventory levels and good old supply and demand curves.
It just seems to me that you are REALLY putting yourself through a LOT of efforts to buy a car and that you are scared to death you may just have to pay a penny more than you have to.
I'm as anxious to save as much as possible when I make a purchase but they comes a point (for me, anyway) when I just pull the trigger and I don't look back.
Maybe I just don't understand your methods and motivation.
I also realize and respect the fact that we are all different. ]]]]
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
ISELL: The point is that all the dealers have RUN OUT of flexcash at this point....so while some had been using it to post lower quotes, they would now say "sorry, I just used my last drop" when I get to the dealer. Many have confirmed this. Many have also confirmed that the current promo scheme expires on Monday the 4th, so on Tuesday the 5th there will be something new. YES, ISELL, it is possible that on Tuesday the 5th Honda will announce that there will be no car promotions at all for November/December. If so, then I can STILL buy the car at the prices I could have bought for yesterday!
I am not "scared" to pay a penny more. But I am more than happy to wait 2 days if it means $500 off on the car. Perhaps you aren't understanding the chess board here....and I know this forum's hosting software is incredibly useless as you can't even read the quote you're responding to (which is why I cut and paste it in). But seriously, if you are buying an iPad and it is $499 today, and last weekend it was $399 with a $100 coupon at BestBuy, but today that coupon is expired, BUT the store clerk says that he expects they might resurrect that coupon on Tuesday, would you buy it for $499 today? Or would you wait and see if the coupon does come back, as the store clerk guessed, and get it for $399? YOU HAVE NOTHING TO LOSE since the price isn't going HIGHER from where it stands today!
And I don't think I am doing anything too crazy, at least vs the Brian advice and others on this board. I have only stepped foot into one dealer to test drive the car, and I've been using the Internet and email to get some quotes. If I end up saving $1000 on the price vs something I could have just gotten walking in off the street in a hurry, and I spent a week and sent a bunch of emails, well to me that is worth it. Maybe $1000 is just scratch to you, but I like to get good prices on stuff. I don't think that makes me unique, at least reading this board.....
Brian is right...it's a big 'ole game, they make the rules and we are just playing it.]]]]
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@CAPEGIRL: Apparently each dealer gets an allocation of flexcash, depending on sales volume for prior [month?]. When they use it, it's gone. At this point, most all of them have actually used it. Last week (around Oct 29) when I first started getting quotes, most of the internet managers were quoting WITH flexcash to get a lower price and entice me. Other dealers were saying "yeah but they probably don't really HAVE IT left...." Indeed, when I pushed closer with some of those quotes, like what is your inventory and when can I sign, all of the sudden those flexcashers said "I just checked with our sales manager and we just used it up last night". A couple were better and said "we did use it up but we will still honor the quote with the flexcash"
One of the dealers said "I doubt anyone has much left since the District Mgr said there is less that 1000 bucks of flexcash IN THE WHOLE DISTRICT right now"
So Monday 11/4 is apparently the closing day of the "current promotion scheme" and Tuesday will be a new day. Many dealers have intimated that they are likely to get a "refreshed" pot of flex cash beginning that day. Or, maybe there is an even sweeter promotion. Perhaps unlikely, but as I said to ISELL above, I don't see how there is any cost to waiting 2 days. I have several pretty attractive quotes WITHOUT flex cash. It can only get better from here, and if for some totally strange reason Honda decides to go with ZERO incentives AND discontinue the flex cash program (even though it seems to be a somewhat recurrent system with the dealers based on their volumes) then I guess I can just buy at the current prices I have today. It's a zero cost option! Ok, I guess there is a small "cost" and that is I have to wait 2 more days to drive my Honda, but I can live with that
There is really no need for you to cut and paste my post to you. I know what I said and it's irrating to have to read through all of that again.
I just hope things work out for you the way you are hoping they will.
Honda didn't have "flex cash" when I was in the business and I'm glad they didn't. They did have incentive and low interest programs that would start and end without notice. Shoppers and salespeople would try to second guess these programs and would sometimes get caught in the lurch.
That was my only point.
The point of copying it was to provide context for others. I know you know what you said, but this forum is more than just you and me. Most forum software has an easy way of showing responses through quoting the original post. Makes it easier to follow. This thread software is about the most basic and worst that I've seen. It's just a bunch of people talking about and responding to each other but you never see the context. If Edmunds was smart they'd upgrade to a more typical format.
Rant over. I totally get your point... If your point is that you can always wait for a "better deal"... Same thing happens even worse in tech... If you just wait a little longer the price will likely go down.. At least with cars it is more stable.
Unless honda rolls our a price INCREASE or dealers somehow feel that the market has firmed up from last week to this week, I don't see how I can lose by getting visibility on any new program plus fresh flexcash for dealers to use. I know they COULD choose not to use it on my specific deal, but I will be a real live buyer this week so it will be close me or lose me for each dealer. I'm not gonna keep waiting and I don't have the complicating factor of a trade in to muddy the waters. I need one number and one number only... Purchase price of the car. Can't get simpler than that.
Honda also offers $500 flex cash that the dealer can apply directly to your purchase if you finance with Honda so thats why the price increased when you declined the financing -- every dealer gets a certain amount of flex cash funds each month so you only get it if they have funds left at the time of purchase
Ask the dealer what the minimum financing amount is (probably $7500 or $10000) -- put a big down payment and finance the min amount to get the $500 flex cash. You can pay off the loan within a few months so you wont lose much in interest
I tried very hard and used your OTD as a benchmark but they are quite reluctant to lower the price. Got $1325 off invoice finally, plus $500 flex cash and $500 graduate promotion. Not bad.
Here is the break down (a dealership in Morrow, GA). Unfortunately GA has the second highest tax and fees.
2014 Sport CVT 21,900.00
Documentary Fee 599.75
Georgia Tax 1,587.63
Licence Fee 70.00
Total 24157.38
Promotion
Flex Cash -500.00
College Graduate -500.00
Final OTD: 23157.38
Hope it helps!
You should post the name of the dealership so forum members in that area can strike a similar deal.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Accord EX-L - priced at $25,262 which is our absolute best price on that vehicle.
And to answer your following questions,
1. Dest. Fee is $790
2. Doc. Fee is $164.30
3. Registration of new plates is $221 or if you are transferring plates it is $145.
4. I will send you another quote with the pricing for one with navigation as well.
5. All Dealer Cash is applied to this vehicle which allows us to sell it you under invoice.
6. There is only a discount if you finance simply because Honda gives us another $500 to discount off the vehicle if you finance with them. There is no discount for paying cash.
Is this a good deal? I'm pretty confused by everything I'm reading and having trouble digesting it all. Does the dealer have room to negotiate on things like floor mats and any extras they've stuck on the car?
And why on earth is the addition of navigation system SO EXPENSIVE? Over $1,000.
Any help would be MOST appreciated in helping me think about all these factors.
If the price you were quoted does not include the destination fee, then the actual price is ($26,262 + 790) = $26,052. Hence, your price is about $598 below invoice. That is not a bad deal at all. BUT, if that price includes the $500 Flex cash then the vehicle price without any incentives or flex cash would be just $98 below invoice. That would be a terrible deal.
This is what you need to do. Ask the dealer to give you a quote for the price of the car including the destination fee but not including any incentives such as flex cash. If they are not prepared to budge on price, I would recommend contacting other dealerships in your area.
By the way, the invoice price of the 2014 EX-L with navigation is $28,269.
Hence, in order to tell whether you are getting a good deal depends on how low below invoice your quote is before any incentives.
Good luck.
I need advice from experienced members out there. I am looking at 2014 4 cyl Accord EX-L. I stay in CT
All the dealers here are quoting me 26,000 - 26500 + sales tax + reg + doc fee ($399). I know the invoice price is 26,650
Do you guys think this is a good deal?
I am not a recent college graduate or dont have any military affiliation, so I dont think any incentives apply to me.
I would be financing and have excellent credit
If you plan to finance through Honda, ask the dealer if they have any flex cash available? An extra $500 will be applied towards the down payment of your car.
You can read some of my previous posts on how to negotiate the best deal.
I came extremely close to getting an amazing deal (25,000 out the door) because my cousin got involved (he knows some people at the dealership i was trying to purchase from). Long story short. the deal fell through.....sad for me.
for the 2014 EX does anyone think 25,000 out the door is possible?
I do qualify for the 500 graduate discount and the 500 flexcash which nocks 1000 off whatever my final price is... Should I hold out? and try to get that price or should I be willing to conceed alittle more money to the dealer say 25,500 OTD?
If you contact a dealership and they do not have any flex cash available, let them know that it is a deal breaker for you. Those dealerships who really want your business, will reach out to you and notify you that they were able to track down a last batch of flex cash (It has happened to me, so this trick does work).
Without breaking down the numbers, i.e. sales price of the car, doc fees, registration fees, etc... I cannot tell you whether 25k or 25.5k OTD is a good deal before any incentives. Your main focus is to get the best deal/lowest price of the car without any incentives.
Since it is now the beginning of the month, I am not sure if you will be able to get a good deal but it does not hurt to reach out to more dealerships for pricing. Always make sure you have a backup dealership in case the first or second one falls through.
Here is my advice; Once you feel you have a good offer on the table, and the dealer has the color combination of the car you want on their lot with (or without) the accessories you want, there is no need to wait another month.
What are the listings of dealerships you recommend up by you.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I bought my car from Honda Cars of Boston, so they would be my #1 choice. Their online quote was the lowest out of all the dealerships I reached out to and they did not play any games. I dealt with the internet manager via email directly. The Finance guy did not try to upsell me any warranties. My car buying experience was great.
Weymouth Honda lists all their prices online including doc fees and registration fees, but there is no room for negotiation. Herb Chambers did not want to budge much on their price when I reached out to them.
I test drove the Accord at Kelly Honda but did not buy from them because the sales guy was too pushy and their price was not competitive.
Dealerships I would avoid:
- PRIME Honda in West Roxbury (They played too many games and lied to me. One of the worst car buying experiences)
- Honda North in Danvers
- Honda Gallery in Reading
- Bernardi Honda
- Commonwealth Honda in Lawrence (They played games)
You could still reach out to some of these dealerships for a price quote, but I would not do business with any of these 5 above.
One note ; i dealt with the mgr at Bernardi and he give me a no nonsense price if i decide to come up to buy my Accord in Feb. He was 100 off the price from Weymouth and Herb Chambers at the time. If i had not told him about the other 2 dealerships my price would of been higher... Thats why i always preach in here pit one dealership against the next.... Its a head game that always works..
I have no dealings with the other dealerships but i will pass on your buying experiences and advice in the CRV forum.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
one of my friend had 700+ credit score and got 2.24% APR for 60 months on 2014 accord. Can the dealer manipulate the honda Financing APR ?
0.9% APR for 24-60 months is available for 2013 Honda Accord Coupe.
0.9% APR for 24-36 months is available for 2014 Honda Accord Sedan and Coupe.
1.9% APR for 37-60 months is available for 2014 Honda Accord Sedan and Coupe.
These rates are good through 1/6/2014
BTW I am planning on closing an awesome deal on Saturday for an Accord...don't want to disclose the price here yet as it almost seems too good to be true but I will report once I have the car.....
Good luck.